Author Topic: Rohloff drivetrain wear: when to replace chain, sprocket, chainring?  (Read 1379 times)

Andyb1

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Re: Rohloff drivetrain wear: when to replace chain, sprocket, chainring?
« Reply #15 on: May 04, 2026, 06:33:23 PM »
Would 13670.2 miles be any easier……😄

Andre Jute

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Re: Rohloff drivetrain wear: when to replace chain, sprocket, chainring?
« Reply #16 on: May 04, 2026, 09:25:19 PM »
I'm a masher fallen among butterflies spinning an unearthly cadence. Before I went to Rohloff, stainless steel chainrings and the Chainglider, I was lucky if I got a thousand miles on a chain. So you don't just need to convert Chris the OP's sterling achievement to miles, you further want to divide by 13.67. Though thanks for the thought.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2026, 09:26:58 PM by Andre Jute »

PH

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You might consider measuring your chain later.  The cheap small chain checkers are not very accurate, but you can measure the length of an entire chain when it hangs from a hook.  One link is a half inch when new, thus 100 links is 50 inches from center of pin to center of pin.  If it is 50.5 inches, that is one percent elongation.  I think on a Rohloff bike replacing the chain when you are a bit over one percent elongation is a good time to replace it.
At 1% elongation how many chains would have been used by now?  Three at least, possibly four? What makes financial sense on a derailleur doesn't transfer to a single chainline.   Chris has saved the cost of three chains for the cost of 50% of a sprocket and chainring.

PH

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The KMC E1 is reputed to be a good chain but not cheap.  It looks like it has done well.  Perhaps helped by your 45 / 19 ratio?
The chainwheel being alloy probably explains the wear - but if you can flip it then it will also do a good total mileage.
If you fit a new E1 and flip both chainwheel and sprocket then in another 22,000 km everything will be due for a change.
I'm on the same chain, similar ratios, get the same sort of distance, never less than 20,000 km, over 25k a couple of times, haven't pushed my luck to 30k yet. Always flip both together, then there's nothing to change mid cycle.

Andre Jute

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In theory, with a single-speed bike, like the majority of modern hub gear bikes and virtually all Rohloff-equipped bikes, you can run a transmission set of the chainring, sprocket and chain into the ground until the first of them breaks, then replace them all at once. The benefit of this method is supposed to be that the components will all have worn together and thus fit together optimally for their state of wear until the end, the expectation being that this method would deliver the greatest possible mileage from the set and, as a bonus, avoid fitting a new chain to worn teeth, which will ensure that the new chain gets to only half the mileage of a chain fitted to new teeth or reversed gears.

"In theory" means I haven't tried it, among other reasons because the underlying assumption above is that all the components have roughly similar lifespans, which just isn't true on my bike, where the Surly stainless steel chainring will very likely have a service life in excess of a magnitude larger than the KMC X8 chains I use, and the Rohloff sprocket will have a lifespan at least 5x the chain life; in all of this the qualification is "in my zero maintenance paradigm, in which I run the chain for its entire life (to half-a-percent wear at which point, at about 4500km, I chuck it off at the Rohloff oil change) on the factory lube with nothing added, inside a Chainglider". Note also another assumption, that there is a whole link-and-a-bit chain adjustment length built into the bike, which isn't true of eccentric bottom bracket adjusters as fitted to Thorn bikes, or even on most bikes with track (slotted) frame ends at the rear of the bike, though Rohloff's own "slider" axle hangers (for which they'll give OEMs blueprints free of charge) have the "correct" length for all likely needs, including this one.

Andyb1

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So when should chains on Rohloff geared bikes be replaced?  So that sprockets are useable with a new chain without being flipped.

Andre says he changes his at 0.5%.
Others say 1%.
I am aiming to change my chains at 1% but that is simply based on what I have read.

Greater elongation must result in more sprocket wear.
I wonder what Chris’s chain elongation is at 22,000km?

PH

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So when should chains on Rohloff geared bikes be replaced?  So that sprockets are useable with a new chain without being flipped.

Andre says he changes his at 0.5%.
Others say 1%.
I am aiming to change my chains at 1% but that is simply based on what I have read.
You will probably get away with 1%, but if it skipped, then the sensible thing to do would be to put the old one back on.
I still don't understand why anyone would? You're throwing away chains with a lot of wear left in order to prolong the life of cheap components. You don't have the choice with a derailleur, simply because the sprockets wear at different rtes.

PH

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"In theory" means I haven't tried it, among other reasons because the underlying assumption above is that all the components have roughly similar lifespans, which just isn't true
I've never heard anyone make that assumption.  The theory is it's simpler and cheaper to change all three when the first component wears out than to keep changing one to preserve the other two. That first component will inevitably be the chain and by that time the other two will be worn too far to synch with a new chain.
In the scheme of things it's no big deal, you have a chain in a case and change it at 4,500km, others like the OP and myself, do five times the distance, save the cost of four chains, then have the cost of half a chainring and sprocket.  No one is getting rich on the difference, I do prefer the simplicity of forgetting about it for years.  If we were really concerned, we'd run wider chains, in a full chaincase, in an oil bath, and expect it to last the lifetime of the bike.