Changing to 650b tubeless Nomad MK3 with bikepacking fork

[dsim]

Hello everyone,

I'm currently in China and punctures are getting a bit annoying, particularly when trying to repair them at the side of the road with a limited hard shoulder.

I'm using 26 x 2.0 Mondials

I'm thinking of switching to 650b tubeless. I've found a Rohloff registered wheel builder in Guangzhou which I'll be going through when I visit Hong Kong at the end of November.

Does anyone have any recommendations for 650b tubeless rims and tyres? I'm not interested in carbon fibre as I don't trust it - ideally something by Ryde would be great because I trust them not to break.

[in4]

This might help:

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-650b-275-584/?application=tubeless%20compatible

Which tubes are you using and what pressures?

I use Mondials 2.00 with schwalbe tubes running 45 rear and 40 front and rarily get punctures despite being loaded.

Hope that helps

[dsim]

Thanks!

Mondials 26 x 2.00 at 45 psi front and rear with Schwalbe tubes (the normal ones, not the extra thick tubes). I didn't get any punctures last year from the UK to Georgia. Haven't had loads of punctures in Kazakhstan and China, but enough to get me to consider tubeless.

I put new tyres on in August so it's not ages related. It's typically very small pieces of metal from car and truck tyres that are doing it. It makes really tiny holes so slowish punctures, but it makes finding the puncture difficult even with a sink full of water.

[WorldTourer]

Ryde's Rival and Edge series are tubeless-compatible. (Note that the Andra series traditionally popular in the bicycle-touring space, is not.)

If I was getting so many punctures from truck-tire wires, I’d diversify my route away from main highways.

[Andyb1]

I don’t use it, but for the problem of small punctures which you are having would Slime or similar in the tyres help?. And then fit new innertubes when you reach better roads.

[dsim]

Ryde's Rival and Edge series are tubeless-compatible. (Note that the Andra series traditionally popular in the bicycle-touring space, is not.)

If I was getting so many punctures from truck-tire wires, I’d diversify my route away from main highways.

Ideally I would, but some parte of China there are no alternative routes. I also had some punctures in Kazakhstan from thorns from vegetation.

Hasn't been loads of punctures, but it gets a bit annoying

Plus I've heard good things from tubeless regarding comfort as they can use lower pressures.

I'll see if I can get Edge of Rival rims here. I'm using Andra currently

[mickeg]

I am intentionally ignorant of tubeless.  Can't help.

I typically run about 67 to 75 percent as much pressure in my front tire as in my rear, as the rear is where most of the weight is.  That has always worked well for me, both touring with a heavy load and unladen.

You said you found a wheel builder that can work with Rohloff hubs.  I have no clue how old your hub is.  Is it old enough that you lack the reinforcing rings?
https://www.rohloff.de/en/company/news/news/flange-support-rings

The wheel builder will of course need the right length of spokes.  Once you decide on rims, you should communicate with the builder in advance to make sure they have what they need for spokes and nipples.  If your bike was built by Thorn, the rear hub is likely 32 spoke, but some Rohloffs are 36 spoke.  (Mine is 36, I built up my wheels, bought the 36 spoke hub I wanted for heavy touring.) 

Sapim Polyax nipples work better with generic rims when fitted to a Rohloff.  The nipples come in different lengths.
https://www.sapim.be/nipples/design/polyax

I assume you know the above (rings, spokes, nipples, etc.), but I mention it just in case you did not.

Good luck on your transition to tubeless.

[JohnR]

I've been running tubeless for several years but not heavily loaded touring. Things that I've have learnt are: (i) Small size variations make some tyre/rim combinations easier to mount than others and a good combination means that the tyre will stay locked on the rim even if deflated (if the tyre is a loose fit then add another layer of two of tubeless tape). (ii) Thorn and similar small holes go unnoticed and cuts are the big hazard. About a year ago I had a nasty encounter with a small piece of flint which made a cut (see photo) that neither the sealant nor one of the tubeless repair rubber worms could handle so I had to fit a tube. The tyre was a Gravelking which is lightweight and rolls OK but isn't very tough (and the Plus version with an extra layer of fabric isn't offered in UK in the 650b size).

I would expect that rims and tyres that are sold for rougher gravel cycling will also be suitable for loaded touring with, for tyres, cut resistance taking precedence over knobbly tread. I recently fitted a pair of these https://www.bananaindustries.co.uk/products/irc-boken-plus-tlr-folding-650b-27-5-x-42mm (also available in 650b 47mm) and have found that they roll quite nicely while the "plus" in the name indicates an extra layer of fabric. IRC is a Japanese company and it's possible that they would be available in China.

In addition to a tubeless repair kit also carry a small bottle or two of tubeless sealant so, if you do get a hole with sealant loss then you can top up the sealant (you will also need a valve core removal tool - dust capes are available with the appropriate hole). Not all sealants are equal. Those containing some bigger lumps stand a better chance of sealing cuts.