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Outer Hebrides and North Coast 500. Looking for advice.

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RonS:
As alluded to in my Japan 2023 post I do have another trip in mind and here it is. The Outer Hebrides, Skye, and part of the North Coast 500.

Here's the idea. Starting in Inverness, I would cycle to Oban where my daughter would meet me. We would then cycle the Hebridian Way and across Skye. It looks like my daughter could make her way back to London via bus from Portree to Inverness and then train,  or by train from Mallaig.  I would then continue on solo, joining the North Coast 500 at Lochcarron.

Timing. These are the possibilities for dates of the trip that coincide with availability of my daughter:
 I can start the trip in Inverness about April 25, or about May 6.
 I can start the trip anytime in Autumn.

Now that you know the plan I have some questions for my Scottish friends.  Matt, I saw your Outer Hebrides journal on CrazyGuy, so I expect you can be of valuable assistance. (And you’ve met Mark Beaumont. How cool is that?)
Weather. Which time of year do you think would be better? Just looking at the climate stats it seems as though September and May have approximately the same daytime average high with nighttime lows being a bit warmer in September. Are the dreaded midges still a problem in September?

Traffic. My daughter has some cycling friends who are convinced that riding the North Coast 500 any time between May and September would be suicidal due to the tourists in caravans and camper vans. They have, however not ridden it themselves and admit that they are relying on second and third hand knowledge. What’s your opinion? I don’t have to follow the “official” route. I’m happy to take a different route to avoid traffic.

That's all the questions I have for now. This plan is still in its infancy. There is nothing that cannot be changed at this time so any opinions are welcome.

Thank you all, and happy new year

Ron

B cereus:
What sort of schedule are you planning in terms of daily mileage and number of days.

Were you planning to cycle the NC500 anticlockwise from Lochcarron back to Inverness?

Fine weather can never be guaranteed in Scotland but I've had some good experiences in late May and early June. Accommodation is often easier to find at this time of year and there's the added bonus of long daylight hours. Weather wise the main problem on the islands is  wind rather than rain. I once had three consecutive days on Barra when it was too dangerous to cycle and  I've been blown off the road on the Isle of Lewis. At least the wind keeps the midges away.

I wouldn't say that cycling the NC500 is suicidal but it has certainly generated a lot more motorised traffic, caravans and motorhomes are a particular problem. You'd  be well to heed the warnings. I've cycled most of the route at  various times but only have limited recent experience. The NC500 has also put a significant strain on accommodation in the immediate area which adds further complication.

I'd also have similar reservations about traffic on Skye. In June 2015  after two weeks cycling in the Outer Hebrides I caught the ferry from Tarbert and cycled across Skye to the Armadale ferry. I was surprised by the increase in traffic on Skye since my previous visit some 10 year previously. The main road from Portree was particularly unpleasant. A good alternative would be the ferry from Stornoway to Ullapool. The Citylink 961 bus service from Ullapool to Inverness does carry bicycles and might suit your daughter. Alternatively its only a half day's cycle ride to the train station at Garve. 

Andre Jute:
Ron, as a credit card tourer (my painting gear takes up all the luggage allowance on even my most capable bike), I don't have any advice for the tour. But I've been on that overnight Inverness to London train, just once, which was a painful enough experience, and after that I went there and returned strictly Dan-Air, which always gave me a brilliant meal and hot and cold running drinks. First, as far as I can tell, the train was just about totally empty, and deservedly so. My ticket was on some kind of a special deal, and that caused the conductor to shout at me that if he wanted to he'd put someone in the compartment with me. I went looking for a drink and there was none. Secondly, you need to prebook your dinner on that train, or you will go hungry. Most important, don't book the lobster as whoever at my client who made my arrangements did for me; I considered myself lucky not to die of salmonella. It had been standing somewhere unrefrigerated for long enough to wilt the lettuce, which was all else on the plate. Hey, it was better than the "distressed" lettuce I once carelessly ordered at the Dublin Showgrounds restaurant, and put in my mouth without inspection: it turned out to be literally rotten lettuce on the menu for models to order as a very strong inducement to eat none of it. Back to the train: Even with the cheese plate (a charged optional extra) the miserably undersized lobster was hardly a snack for a midget, never mind dinner for someone my size. I gave the cheese -- processed, curled and suspicious -- and biscuits to a woman with small children whom the three dining car staff refused to serve any food because they hadn't booked.Thirdly, bring biscuits and a teabag for breakfast, a mug too, because they don't serve any breakfast whatsoever. Finally, make absolutely sure your daughter has queried carrying a bike on that train, and received a reply in writing (do it by email) about carrying the bike, and brings a printed copy, or obstreperous staff could easily simply refuse to open the door of the luggage compartment.

I turned my scathing report on that journey to my client (who was new to the North of Scotland), who afterwards carefully avoided that train, into an op-ed for one of the Sunday papers, and the editor made me wonder where he was educated by saying he loved the satire...

A wretched train line. (Try it with a hard Australian pronunciation: rat-sh!t.)

RonS:
 Thanks for the replies


--- Quote from: B cereus on January 03, 2024, 11:07:07 pm ---What sort of schedule are you planning in terms of daily mileage and number of days.
Were you planning to cycle the NC500 anticlockwise from Lochcarron back to Inverness?

--- End quote ---

My plan is to spend about three to four weeks on the trip. My daughter can join me for about 8 days, which we would spend on the Hebrides. I would then continue on the NC500.  I would like to keep daily distance under 50mi and enjoy the sights.
The plan is to camp in commercial sites where available. I know I can camp almost anywhere in Scotland, but after a day on the bike I enjoy a hot shower.
The plan is to go clockwise from Lochcarron.

The suggestion to take the ferry to Ullapool sounds good. Skye traffic was a concern. I was there last May when my wife and I took a tour of the highlands on a small 13 seat coach. The traffic was quite heavy at times. It's just so beautiful I wanted to go back.

 Andre, I plan on flying to  Inverness from Vancouver, so no worries about being poisoned by the lobster on the train :)
My daughter has been in the UK for 2 years and has more knowledge than I of the rail system, so I will leave her end of the voyage to her. I will alert her to check out procedures for bike transport.

Ron

B cereus:
Here are some thoughts on the Hebridean section of your  tour:

The Hebridean Way is a good introduction to the outer islands  and an 8 day schedule should allow enough time to explore one or two  of the side roads that lead to more isolated locations. The road out to Husinis is an obvious example and is an excellent Choice, as is the road to Rheinigidale. There's wild camping at Husinis with access to public toilets and showers. The Hebridean Way goes up the west coast of Harris I believe, it's justifiably   famous for its glorious white sandy beaches but you might also consider the east coast, the so called Golden Road, the rocky coastline and distant views of the Isle of Skye are a marked contrast to landscape in the west, but are no less spectacular. It's a tough choice and a circular tour would mean doing one of them twice. I'm also tempted to recommend the out and back route to Mealasta on the south west coast of Lewis  but its quite a stretch and  I  think it would be too much on an 8 day schedule. For more inspiration I'd recommend the Cicerone guide book Cycling the Hebrides by Richard Barret. 

https://www.cicerone.co.uk/cycling-in-the-hebrides-2

Accommodation:

Upon arrival at Castlebay there's a small campsite a couple of miles away at Borve on the west coast of Barra but it's very exposed to westerly winds. A  better alternative is Croft 183 on the east coast about 5 miles beyond Castlebay. They have an excellent campers kitchen and there's also very comfortable hostel type accommodation if the weather really turns nasty. There's more camping out by the “ Airport”  but I've no personal experience. There's also wild camping on Vatersay, next to the community hall, with 24hr toilet facilities.

If you want recommendations for accommodation further north, then just ask when you better know your itinerary . But in the meantime one  campsite that I've used and would recommend is at the RSPB Balranald Nature Reserve at Hougharry on the west coast of North Uist. Bring some lightweight binoculars if you're interested in birdlife. Finally I'll mention the Gatliffe Trust Hostels. They're quite basic but in stunning locations and well worth a visit, there's one ar Rheinigidale, mentioned above. They're more akin to Bothies in so far as there's no booking, its first come first served. The good news is you can camp and use the hostel facilities.

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