Technical > Lighting and Electronics

Introducing flexibility with lighting and racks

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PH:
My opinion hasn't changed in the year this thread has been dormant

--- Quote ---I'd use small spade connectors as mickeg suggests, I don't see any reason to make it more complicated.
--- End quote ---
I think the fear of corrosion is unfounded, SON hubs still use spade connectors in a far more vulnerable position, if it was an issue I think they'd know about it.  If you're still concerned, a smear of Vaseline, or marine grease every year or so would keep them like new.  Or if the aesthetics bother you, and you're not frequently reconnecting, you could heat shrink over the joins, it's easy enough to remove and redo.  Whenever you're introducing connectors it's neater IMO to stagger them.
If long term I was planning on swapping a dynamo in and out, I might be tempted to change the lights to battery and use the dynamo as a charging device.  That's my plan should I use the folder to tour again, the light is vulnerable when folded and last time I toured with it, I carried the light around without using it.

Andre Jute:
Breaks in electric cables should preferably be on a vertical section of the cable run. The shrink-wrap on the higher piece can be cut long to form a sheath for the junction, overlapping the junction so as to keep water out. This requires some care with your heat source when shrinking. At the junction with the hub dynamo and the lamps, there should be a drip loop to avoid leading water straight into expensive bits -- not elegant, but not all lamps are waterproof and some expensive lamp makers including B&M are pretty casual or absent when it comes to intrinsic waterproofing of lamps because they presume the lamps are intended for bikes with mudguards. If you use large and ugly splitters, they can be hidden behind the tubing.

JohnR:
Here's the gold-plated solution https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/supernova-qr-gold-connector-set-with-integrated-shrink-wrap/ .

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