First "tour" - observations and lessons learned

[navrig]

I am just back from a 4 day/3 night mini-tour from Mallaig to Home.  240 miles across the highlands, down through Perthshire/Fife and across East Lothian.  This was my first tour but nit my first experience of back to back riding days.

I have come home with questions, lessons and observations and, once again, want to tap into the massive experience on this website.  This tour was a precursor to a 3 month tour planned for Europe next April.

I am a roadie and I wore my roadie lycra rather than buying touring clothing.  I was wearing SPD MTB, shoes with double sided Shimano pedals.  My bike is a Shand Stoater with rear rack, hub dynamo and Ortlieb panniers and bar bag.  I tried to carry the same amount of stuff as I will for the 3 month tour, accepting that it was more than I needed for 4 days.  I just wanted to heel the weight and get used to the bike handling.

I will not be camping so stayed at hostels and, on this occasion, ate in local pubs/cafes.

Lessons learned/questions:

I need a better system for packing.  By the end of the 4 days my clothes and kit were all mixed up in the panniers.

How do I split stuff between the 2 panniers ensuring ease of access and finding what I want quickly?
Are these net bags used to separate stuff in suitcases any good for touring? (we have some in the house)

The bar bag also ended up mixed up - is it worth creating dividers for stuff in there?  (I wish the inside was white, I might be able to see things then!!)

My trainer style shoes may be too pliable so I may have to switch to stiffer soles and therefore need to take a 2nd pair of shoes.  I guess this is a personal issue but I was getting hot-spots at about 50 miles.

The tour was after a week of gravel riding on the same bike.  The drivetrain was dirty and covered in grass.  How do you wash your bike during a longer tour?

A large bag of wine gums in the bar bag was great at stopping cotton-mouth.  Will I find Bassat's Wine Gums through Europe? 

I have other observations and questions but my battery is about to die so I'll come back later.

[PH]

The answer to all your questions is that you'll find out what works for you.  But as I'm stuck at home with nothing better to do, I'll answer what I've found works for me,
Packing - For clothes, I use two stuff sacks, clean and dirty, the clean goes in the pannier with the bedding and sleep stuff, I'm not too bothered where the other goes, wherever it'll fit, until I get round to laundering it, I don't need it anywhere.  I suppose netting sacks might work, but there's not much weight to be saved and my clean clothing one doubles up as a pillow.
Split between panniers - as above, only one of them needs to come into the inner tent. The other can stay in the porch.
Organisation, I pack up what can be before going to bed, just as importantly I haven't unpacked what I haven't needed. That comes from routine, knowing where what you need will be.
I prefer a small bar bag, there's only the essentials in it, camera, phone, wallet, keys, plus powerpack if in use. If I need more capacity I'll add it elsewhere, stem bag, top tube...
Shoes I can't help with, I never had a problem with MTB SPD's and now find big flat pinned pedals and grippy shoes even more comfortable.
Bike cleaning  Did you go for a chain or belt?  I do the minimum of chain cleaning, same as at home, wipe, oil, leave overnight, wipe off.  The rest of the bike, if it's really dirty might get taken to the campsite tap and wiped down with a J-Cloth. But that doesn't happen often.
Jetwash - This can be controversial, use with caution, don't point it anywhere near a bearing, wash the bike along it's centreline rather than across it, and IMO it's fine, it's never caused me an issue, often a quid well pent at the garage opposite me. 
More importantly, minimise how dirty it gets, do you have mudguards? How about mudflaps? Not always practical I know, but it's sometimes comical to see riders with and without at the end of the same ride.
Did I mention J-Cloths, these would be my desert Island luxury. Use after a shower to get 90% dry before using your towel, do the washing up, wipe the dew of the tent before packing away, clean the chain and bike, a single cloth can be used for multiple tasks, in the right order obviously 
Wine gums - no idea!  I like dried apricots.

If I had a top tip, it would be to sort the bike out ASAP when you arrive each day, I do this as soon as the tent is up, before getting cleaned and changed  or eating.  Whatever you've been thinking needs doing as you ride along, which may be nothing, do it now, while you remember, it it turns out to ba a bigger job, you have time to sort it, then put the bike away and know it's ready to ride.

[navrig]

Thanks PH.  Stuff sacks are a good suggestion.

I went for a chain but on this occasion the bike was exceptionally dirty after having been sprayed with cut grass after we parked up on a grass verge which was subsequently strimmed!!  I was non too pleased at that.  Gradually the grass mulched down into a fine paste which has started to gum up the drivetrain.  I think that was an extreme situation.

J-cloths - noted.  I have been using a micro-fibre towel I bought for drying the car after a wash.  It's not too bulky super absorbent and dries quickly.  I only use a jet wash on the frame of my MTB when it is caked in mud otherwise I use a brush on the drive train.  I'll have to work out something for the chain.

[mickeg]

Clothing, I pack that in packing cubes.  A couple exceptions, my down vest goes either in a small dry bag with my stocking cap or it goes into the same stuff sack as my sleeping bag. And my rain gear usually gets strapped on top of my Ortlieb Front Roller panniers where it is handy.

When you say net bags, they probably are the packing cubes I cited.

I have a small cardboard box inside of my handlebar bag.  It helps keep long skinny objects vertical.  The box is never removed, it just offers some organization in keeping things in place better.  First photo.

I use SPD cleats on my shoes.  I also bring a pair of hiking shoes (waterproof, might be Goretex?) to use in the campsite.  But there are some days when I ride with my hiking shoes instead of bike shoes.  I use pedals that have one side platform and one side SPD cleat so both types of shoes work on the pedals.

Speaking of cleats, I use blue (removable) thread locker on my cleat bolts and rack bolts.  You do not want to lose one cleat bolt and you really do not want to lose two.  Loctite is one brand of thread locker.  I carry one cleat bolt in my bag of spares.

I usually do not wash a bike on tour, usually the rain is very good at that.  I have used many different chain lubes over the years, but now when touring I only use a wax based lube that does not pick up dirt.  Second photo was taken on the last tour that I did with a petroleum based lube before switching to wax based, the chainring was dirtier than it looks.  Now, when touring I use Finish Line Ceramic Dry lube.  But on a rainy day instead I use rain water for lube.  Keep in mind that a clean bike is more theft prone than a dirty bike.

Speaking of a dirty bike, if you see a doctor or dentist, ask them if they can give you a few pairs of the disposal gloves they use, they come in handy if you have to do a repair or change an inner tube.  Pre-covid, they were always happy to give me a handful, but they might be harder to get for free now.

I have not ridden on trails with grass, only gravel and dirt, can't comment on grass.

Chain lube is in handlebar bag, I want to be able to use it right away if my drivetrain is noisy, I do not want to think that I will remember to lube my chain in a campground later, as I always forget.

I have not toured Europe, I only have toured in areas where the risk of theft was quite low.  But I suspect you will need a good lock for Europe.  I bought a Bordo 6100 for my titanium bike, as that bike looks expensive and I do not want to lose it.  I also favor combination locks.  A good U lock might be better but if your lock is too good you will get careless.  Also when touring I use bolt on skewers instead of quick release.  Usually my frame is locked up but not both wheels.  And I pack the 5mm wrench for the skewers with my spare tubes (2 tubes and patch kit).

I use fenders (mudguards) when I can, but some trips they were too much bulk for my disassembled and packed bike.

You said nothing about hill climbing and gearing, so I assume you have the gearing you need.

Staying indoors, you should always have access to power to charge up devices, a sink with a drain stopper to do sink laundry, etc.  So, life should be pretty simple if you are not camping.

Third photo, another handlebar bag photo.

Sometimes I use Ortlieb Panniers, sometimes a different brand.  Fourth photo, my raingear strapped on top of front Ortlieb panniers.

[martinf]

I don't have problems with my stuff getting mixed up.

Perhaps it is easier with the front and rear pannier setup I generally use. My Ortlieb rear panniers have one single, undivided main compartiment, plus a fairly flat and less rainproof side pocket, which I don't really use, except in good weather to stow a map for quick access. I added an extra pocket on the rear of the rear panniers, the idea here being to keep potentially dirty items separate from the rest.

My Ortlieb front panniers are smaller and have a single compartment.

When I think it is useful I use bags inside the panniers to keep groups of items together. For example, different coloured lightweight dry bags to pack textiles, one colour for cycling clothing, another for evening clothing, and another for sleeping bag and liner. I have a stronger nylon bag for food and the nylon bag that came with my Trangia stove for all the cooking kit except the burner and fuel.

I don't use a handlebar bag. Instead I have a very lightweight 15 litre rucksack, in which I have my camera, mobile phone, documents, and other stuff I want to take with me if I leave the bike locked up.

My tent is carried strapped to the rear rack, because I don't want it inside a pannier if I have to pack it wet.

Each item or group of items has its assigned place in the luggage, which I generally manage to respect.

For example,

The left-hand rear pannier (food, cooking, documents) contains:
- The 15 litre rucksack with my documents.
- My food bag.
- My cooking kit.
The extra pocket on the rear of this pannier contains the stove fuel and burner.

And the right-hand front pannier (evening kit) contains:
- My off-bike trousers.
- A battery powered torch.
- Sleeping bag and liner.
- Wash kit and towel.

 

[navrig]

Mickeg - great response, thanks.

Gearing - I think my gearing is fine.  It won't cope with alpine cols but I should be ok with it on most other climbs.

Useful points:

take a universal sing plug/stopper
a box or dividers in bar bag can be useful - I'll make something
review chainlube choice (currently Finish Line wet lube)
take a cleat bolt and consider threadlock on some bolts


I have a decent Abus padlock and steel rope as a lock.  Who know if it is good enough.  I'll only find out  if the bike is stole!!

My axles are bolt through rather than QR.

Keep in mind that a clean bike is more theft prone than a dirty bike.

Good point but not something which will affect me.  I am very happy to have a grotty looking bike as long as the drivetrain is reasonable clear and smooth.

[navrig]

Thanks MartinF.

My plan is to take full days off and do some touristy stuff so I will be taking other shoes - probably trail trainers- and a small rucsac but  wont wear that.  I'll probably strap that to the top of the rack and use it to store the shoes not being worn that day.

I still have to work out what toiletries/medication/washgel I need to take.  There has to be a balance between taking very little and paying for stuff as you go.

[mickeg]

My gear is pretty much the same for a week long trip as it is for a month and a half long trip.  But I do not like to run out of small items on my trips, so on a longer trip I start with a newer larger bar of soap, more toothpaste in the tube, a few more ounces of laundry soap, etc.

Campgrounds almost never have sinks with a drain stopper but if you are staying indoors, most sinks do.  Exception is a few hostels I have stayed at lacked a drain stopper.  Mine is a flat silicone one.

If I was staying indoors, I would bring a couple plastic shirt hangers if they fit in a pannier.  If you do sink laundry and let it drip dry in the shower (if you have your own private shower stall), a couple hangers can help it drip dry a bit faster.

I usually have two shirts, two pair of pants of which one might be convertible to shorts, two bike jerseys, two bike shorts or one might be bike pants that are convertible to shorts, four pair of underwear, four pair of socks.  All of these clothes are quick dry fabric, so as travel clothing. 

Clean clothes are in packing cubes, dirty laundry might be in a separate mesh bag.

Most people do not wear underwear under their bike shorts, but I do.  Thus, I do not mind wearing the same bike shorts for a few consecutive days.

Outerwear, varies on where I go and expected climate.  Thus, not elaborating.  But I always carry a down vest, it is nice to have when it is cool.

In hot weather, I am less likely to use rain pants and rain covers over my bike shoes.  Thus, sometimes I have very wet bike shoes.  There have been days when I had my wet bike shoes strapped on top of a pannier while I was wearing my hiking shoes.  Thus, the two sided pedals for both types of shoes comes in handy.

I know you said you are staying indoors, but I thought I would briefly describe some of how I pack.
- Front right pannier, tent and other stuff that can get wet or stay wet without damage.
- Front left pannier, cooking gear, some food. 
- Rear panniers, every trip I do it differently.
- Bag on top of rear panniers, usually that is food, my second pair of shoes that are odd shape and pack poorly are usually in this bag too.  Often at end of trip, this bag is empty, if it is a dry bag with minimal stiffeners I might fold it up and put in a pannier.
- Handlebar bag with all valuables and documents, this goes in grocery stores, restaurants, etc.  Thus it is not just stuff I may want to access fast, but it also is the important stuff I can't lose.  If I went several days without my meds, that would not be a big deal, but if you have meds that are important that you take, that is something you can't afford to lose.

Speaking of meds, they are in a dry bag.  Separate dry bag with my blood sugar meter.

About eight years ago I bought a waterproof camera, VERY happy with that.  I now can take photos on rainy days.

I am old enough that I need reading glasses to read my GPS on my bike.  Some wrap around safety glasses are available as bifocals with reader inserts.  First photo, I use a pair of yellow ones in overcast or rain, darker tinted in sun.

I carry two inner tubes and a patch kit of self adhesive patches.  The self adhesive ones do not last forever, but they usually work for a few months.  When at home, I peal off the self adhesive ones and glue good patches on.

Pump, I usually use a Lezyne Micro Floor Drive, a good alternative to that is a Toppeak Road Morph G.  The Lezyne threads onto a valve stem, if the presta core is removable, that should be tightened with a wrench or the valve core might stay in the Lezyne chuck when you remove it.

A few extra M5 bolts, a quick link or two for the chain, a brake cable and shifter cable, good multi-tool.  I previously mentioned a cleat bolt.

I use a leather saddle, that needs a rain cover and I put the rain cover on it every night in case of dew.

I assume you will be reasonably close to bike shops every few days.  I would probably not bring  a spare tire, but if I did it would not be a heavy replacement tire, it would be a thin light weight one that stays in the bottom of a pannier, but if needed is only good enough to get me to a bike shop.

I have had credit cards stop working in foreign countries, bring enough cards that you are not stranded if one stops working.  I typically would carry three credit cards, one debit card that I only use in ATM machines to obtain local currency.

You are going to have a great time.

[energyman]

A classic photo of a happy tourer !

[JohnR]

For footwear consider sandals. They provide more fresh air for the feet in hot weather and don't fill with water when it rains. There are cycling-specific sandals eg https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m6b0s154p0/Shoes-%7C-Clothing-%7C-Helmets/Shoes although I use Clarks Wavewalk sandals (unfortunately not currently available) which I discovered by accident are thicker under the ball of the foot and work nicely with flat pedals (trainers with the same sole are also not currently available). If cold conditions are anticipated then socks can be used, plus waterproof socks for cold and wet.

Europe in April mights still be cool but is likely to get hot by June so you'll need good water carrying capacity.

[Danneaux]

Europe in April mights still be cool but is likely to get hot by June so you'll need good water carrying capacity.

JohnR makes a good point here. If you are starting or ending early cool nights can be an issue, especially in Eastern Europe. When I started 09 May in Bulgaria, nighttime lows were 3.3C/38F. I found the same when I left on 11 September.

In between, there was a LOT of heat in Romania, Serbia, and Croatia -- record-breaking levels. I carried three 1.5l bottles (4.5l total) on the bike and enough extra to allow for 8.5l/day for drinking alone...and consumed that each day. I found four additional 1l bottles could be tucked nicely beneath the lid tie-down straps on each of my Ortlieb cap-top SportPacker and BikePacker panniers. If you cannot find electrolyte replacement/energy drinks to prevent cramps, then alcohol-free beer(if it is imported from Germany, look for "Alkool frei" on the label) works nicely as a substitute.

Fortunately, you'll never be far from stores in Europe, though if you are in Bulgaria, beware of the "secret" or "hidden" markets that are run out of people's homes. The locals know where they are but there will be no signage to tell a stranger so ask around. The only hazard is these may be closed/locked on short or no notice.  I once rode the Carpathian and Rhodope ridges for two days/250kms with with no food as a result. You can bet I carried 1-2 days of spare rations thereafter!

Best wishes in your travels, Dan.

[mickeg]

Dan makes a good point, you should check the weather averages for where you go for the time of year so you have an idea of past norms.  And yes, I am aware that right now with record breaking heat waves we are far from norms.

This is my go-to website for checking past weather averages.  Enter a community name that has a local airport.  Lots of good info on average chance of precip, temperature, windage, etc.  Note that they consider a day to have precip if it was over 0.04 inches or roughly 1 mm.  Less than a mm and does not count.
https://weatherspark.com/

I like to pick a few places along my route and figure out what my hot to cold ranges will be to assess what kinds of clothing to bring and what range of temperature I need for sleeping bag.

But of course, you can always buy something you did not bring.

I am not sure what your bike capacity is for water bottles, my heavy touring bike (Thorn Nomad Mk II) holds three bottles, I use liter size bottles.  See photo.

[mickeg]

If your clothing is too bulky when packed, you can buy compression stuff sacks.

They are a stuff sack, but have straps or cords that you can compress the sack (I sit on it to compress it) and tighten the cords or straps to keep the sack in that small volume from your compressing it. 

If you yank on cord or strap to compress it, that can damage it so that is not the ideal way to do it.  But you often see people doing that.  I think it best to avoid developing that habit.

I have occasionally used them for clothing and always use them for sleeping bags.

[PH]

If your clothing is too bulky when packed, you can buy compression stuff sacks.

Yes, although we obsess about weight, bulk can be as much a hinderance.
I try not to carry more air about than necessary, like you I squeeze it out, though usually by kneeling rather than sitting on it.
There's a newer type of compression bag, that don't use straps, but instead have a valve or some other way of stopping the air getting back in.  There's plenty of choice, Ortlieb do a few and I've been looking at a Sea to Summit one with a breathable fabric panel in the bottom to squeeze air out of.  I'm toying with the idea of making some ultralight panniers, which probably won't be 100% waterproof, and this sort of bag inside  the one where waterproof was a necessity.
Just a word of caution, in case it's not obvious, if you have any feather and down stuff (I have a quilt and gillet) it's probably a good idea not to over compress it.  There's debate over the damage caused, even if there's none, the longer it's compressed the longer it'll take to recover and loft.

[martinf]

Yes, although we obsess about weight, bulk can be as much a hinderance.

Within reason, I don't bother too much about bulk on a bicycle. I don't carry much spare clothing, my sleeping bag and inner have their original stuff sacks.

But I did get a more compact camping mattress after a trip with a reasonably light, very comfortable but very bulky foam mattress (photo below).

Rather than wind resistance, the main issue was the noise from the bin liner I used to protect it from the rain.

The much more compact self-inflating (and lighter) replacement I bought fits easily inside one of my panniers. Not quite so comfortable, but acceptable.