Community > Rohloff Internal Hub Gears

Replacing Rohloff shifter cables on a Raven Twin tandem

<< < (2/3) > >>

HugoC:
Thanks for reply PH. Given that I have all 14 gears then my LBS must have fitted the cables correctly!

Would still like to learn from the experience of others who have fitted to 'front' cables to the cable splitters, if there is anyone out there...........

Danneaux:

--- Quote ---Would still like to learn from the experience of others who have fitted to 'front' cables to the cable splitters, if there is anyone out there...
--- End quote ---
While I have not done so on a Rohloff-geared tandem, I did replace the front cables on a split cable run for a coupled road bike with derailleur gearing and don't see how it could be different with a Rohloff-equipped bike.

In this case the front cables were worn, not broken and the replacement was precautionary so I had intact cables to go by to determine cut length (recommended).

I simply undid the tiny little grub screws on each splitter, extracted the cables, and then removed the leaded ends from the shifters and measured each cable so I could cut the new cables to length. In this case, the bike had splitters supplied by Bruce Gordon, so the cable ends were first fitted to the shifters, then the ends were simply rammed home in the splitter's front wells, then resecured with the grub screws.

It seemed a simple task and the indexed gearing needed no adjustments after, so it seems I got the length right on the first try. The same should hold true with the forward cable runs on split Rohloff cabling. I wouldn't expect the Rohloff hub housing adjusters to need fiddling so long as the forward cable length remains the same.

One hearty recommendation: After cutting the cables to length, be sure to apply some clear super glue to the ends and allow it time to cure before fitting to the splitters. This keeps the ends from fraying under pressure from the grub screws.

My own tandem has unbroken cable runs (i.e. it has no frame couplers) so I use standard ultra-long tandem gear cables on it.

Best,

Dan.

mickeg:
I have no clue what splitters you are talking about on your Thorn.  I have Ritchey cable splitters on my Ritchie Break Away bike (badged as a Raleigh Grand Prix).  The light gray thing under the word Prix on the frame in the photo is a splitter, the are two pieces of cable for that rear brake.  The splitter holds the two pieces of cable together.  And there are two other splitters under the down tube for the derailleurs.  The splitters simplify things when I split the frame in two halves.

I have never had to replace the cable, thus have no experience with that.  For that you need to rely in Dan.

If you have S&S couplers on your tandem, then perhaps SJS installed similar splitters to the Ritchey ones on your bike.  My Nomad Mk II is the S&S version, SJS included one splitter with the frame when I bought it for the rear brake.

HugoC:
I've heard from another source that when fitting the front cables, after making sure the cable ends are seated correctly in the shifter, put the shifter in gear 7 and cut and secure the cable to the splitters so that when connected, the splitters are midway between the cable stops (when in gear 7). Then fit the rear cables to the Ex Box using the recommended method. I've made a poor attempt at showing this on a photograph - gear 7 has been selected and the position of the cable splitters is approximately midway between the cable stopes, i.e., X = Y. This seems to make sense. Would anyone like to offer their thoughts?

UKTony:
I ve never installed a split shifter cable before but I was thinking about the process logically and came to the conclusion that one first cut a suitable length of outer housing for the front section between the shifter and the upper cable stop above where the splitter would be. Then fit the inner to the shifter and feed it through the front section of outer housing. It was how to gauge the midpoint that foxed me. I was thinking of putting in gear 6 or 7 or midway or midway between the two but wasn’t sure. Once you cut the inner and join the splitter, you then need to cut a length of outer housing for the rear section. Lastly using the 200mm gauge cut the inner to length and fit to the ex box. I think the key is not to try and measure and cut the front inner first. As I’ve said, I’ve never done this before but think this is the sequence in which I personally would tackle the job.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page