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S&S couplers

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jul:
Hi all,

I had the opportunity to transport my Nomad by plane and i don't have a good memory of it, even if everythink went well.

The problem is the cardboard box, it was to big.

I think to buy 2 S&S couplers and why not to adapt it by myself...

But before i would like to get some advice and an address where i can by these couplers in Europe.

Thanks in advance

George Hetrick:
From http://www.sandsmachine.com
Where can I buy them?

* Consumers should purchase complete bikes, frames manufactured with BTCs™ and accessory items from a local retailer.

* If your retailer doesn't carry bicycles with BTCs™ and is unable to work with a listed framebuilder, we suggest you contact a framebuilder to locate a retailer in your area. In areas where a framebuilder isn't represented, they may sell to you direct, but there is usually no price advantage.
Some framebuilders don't sell through retailers, they only sell direct to consumers.
For information regarding whether a framebuilder sells direct or through retailers, see the builder profile for each framebuilder which can be found by clicking on the framebuilder's name on the framebuilder lists..

* Retrofitting BTCs™ to your existing frame can be arranged through a retailer but it is more commonly done by going direct to a framebuilder.

* BTCs™ are sold only to professional bicycle framebuilders.  We're sorry but couplings are not sold to amateur framebuilders.

* S and S Machine does not sell bikes or retrofit bikes, we only make the couplings which we sell to professional bicycle framebuilders.

George Hetrick:
If you were in the US, I'd suggest going to https://www.bilenky.com to have it done, but here's the non-US-based frame builder list from S&S Machine:
http://www.sandsmachine.com/fbplist.htm#Foreign

S&S Machine doesn't sell to amateurs, I suspect that's primarily a liability-based decision.

Danneaux:
I had the option of couplings when I got my Nomad Mk2, seriously considered it, and in the end decided against for several reasons...

1) S&S recommend the couplings be checked daily and given I ride very rough roads, even the unlikely possibility of loosening sort of put me off in my use.

2) The couplings consist of nuts and retaining rings and it is recommended they be kept fairly clean to ensure easy de/coupling. Given I often ride in desert areas where fine talc-like alkali dust blows in the air and gets into everything, I thought it would be difficult to keep the couplings clean and lubed. Several bikes I've serviced for friends use short sections of innertube to keep the couplings clean, but this makes them difficult to check for tightness.

3) Depending on how you choose to lock your bike, it is possible for someone to use a pipe wrench to undo the couplers and steal the bike. That actually happened locally in my town where bike theft occurs at high rates. The rear of the bike was locked properly but the thief left behind the pipe wrench used to take the front frame half with its handlebars, stem, brifters, and fork. Something similar happened to the local owner a Moulton AM7 some years ago. I seriously considered buying one at the time, so I noticed whenever I passed this one parked in a rack until one day, it was only half there.  :'(

4) I didn't expect to use the couplers enough to be worth the extra cost.

5) For my 590M frame size, the uncut fork steerer would be too long to fit in a 26x26x10in box with the frame and wheels, so I would need to carry it separately with my cabin luggage.

This article may be helpful, too: https://cycletraveloverload.com/all-about-ss-couplers-should-you-get-them/

I mostly don't regret passing on the couplings, but one gadget came out recently that might have changed my mind; the very clever Japanese-made "Kamoya Moulton Porter Joint Bracket". It consists of two q/r hub nuts that have annular rings and a separate aluminum sleeve that slides over them and uses two thumbs crews to engage the annular rings. The sleeve ties the two halves of a separable bike together at the hubs. If the frame uses S&S Torque Couplers,  then the top tube is pivoted on the headset so it can be strapped to the saddle. The lot will stand upright on a pedal if you first take care to ensure the crank is vertical. Ad copy reads, "Allows the coupled bike's halves to be linked together at the hubs and stood upright for space saving storage at home, say in a closet, or on a train or in a car trunk". A brilliant idea originally conceived in the Japanese aftermarket for the separable Moulton AM series bikes and for quickly "Rinko-ing"* randonneur bikes for easier travel in trains. See: https://www.kamoya-ne.com/?pid=46809719 Full photos of it in action appear here: https://www.instagram.com/niigata0252/, outtakes attached below with full credit to Niigata0252.

Best,

Dan.

*What's "proper" Rinko? Glad you asked. See:
https://cycling-intelligence.com/2019/07/31/the-secrets-of-a-rinko-bike-how-to-get-a-near-perfect-steed-for-train-travel/
https://www.renehersecycles.com/rinko-parts-useful-not-only-for-train-travel/
https://www.renehersecycles.com/how-small-is-a-rinko-bike/ With comments on air travel with a Rinko'd bike.
https://www.rossmancycles.com/rinko

martinf:
I investigated S&S couplers when getting my first Thorn, but after discussion with SJS cycles decided it wasn't worth it for me.

For a "travel bike" I have used:

- a lightweight full sized bike with quick release wheels and wingnut attached mudguards for (relatively) easy disassembly, combined with a large home-made nylon bag. Just adequate for some trains, but too fragile to do much else.

- old 16" wheel Moulton bikes. I used the same bag as above, disassembly was much quicker, package smaller but still the problem of having several bits (front half, back half and rear rack). I used very thin camping mattress to separate the bits. when cycling the bag  + bits of mattress made a light but bulky addition to my luggage. As I had two Moultons, I optimised one for frequent use of transport (3-speed coaster brake hub, with the gear shifter on the seat tube, so no need to split brake/gear cables, shortened flat handlebars, rear rack only) and the other for longer tours (5-speed hub, drop bars, front rack as well as rear).

- a TSR that replaced my old Moultons. This had the same drawbacks as above, but it was easier to fit wide range gearing. I eventually sold it as I hardly ever used the frame splitting feature, as I nearly always used a Brompton for travel using other transport.

- Bromptons. These have the advantage of folding quickly to a very compact size, once bagged they are easy to manipulate with no loose parts. So I have been able to take one almost anywhere, including some places where bicycles are not allowed. Even been on the Paris Metro with one, I'd hate to try taking anything bigger on that. I now have 3 of these, one for my wife, one optimised for easy carrying (lightweight, no rack, 5-speed hub), the other for longer trips (heavier, rear rack, Rohloff hub).

My Raven Tour and other large-wheel bikes have occasionally been on French trains, but not on trains where you need to dismantle and bag the bike (so no TGV high-speed or Eurostar trains).

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