First Time Rohloff Owner

[JohnR]

I'm going to fabricate a Hubbub-style mount for the Rohloff shifter on the right bar end of my drop bars. That's a more natural place for my hand, and lets me maintain steering control. Like here: http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=11720.0

The Gebla Rohbox is a very neat but expensive alternative https://www.cyclemonkey.com/shifters/gebla-rohboxsram-shifter-bundles and works using brifters. A lady on the last group ride I did had one of these and it took me a while to figure out how she was shifting gears on her golden Rohloff hub.

I also found, after patching two rear wheel flats, when my Surley Singelator decided it didn't want to press "up" any longer, that I can ride just fine without a chain tensioner. The chain is slack, but has good chainline and will not rise up off the chainring under stress.

Interesting. I'm tempted to try this on my new bike which has the benefit of an Open Chainglider to keep the chain on the chainring http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14396.msg107972#msg107972 so the only place the chain can jump off is from the sprocket. Furthermore, no tensioner opens the possibility of using the full Chainglider which would definitely stop the chain from going astray but, if the chain is too loose, then there might be extra drag.

[George Hetrick]

a very neat but expensive alternative https://www.cyclemonkey.com/shifters/gebla-rohboxsram-shifter-bundles and works using brifters. A lady on the last group ride I did had one of these and it took me a while to figure out how she was shifting gears on her golden Rohloff hub.

WhenI had my Bilenky built, I specified the Rohbox, and it is excellent -- it requires some modified brifters, but works splendidly. It's a little less painful financially as an initial spec, rather than as a replacement for an existing setup, since you don't toss the original brake levers.

[mickeg]

If I recall correctly, Rohloff sells an optional chainguard to keep the chain from jumping off of the sprocket and getting onto the shell between the sprocket and spokes.  If you plan to regularly ride with a really loose chain, you might want to install one of those.

[JohnR]

If I recall correctly, Rohloff sells an optional chainguard to keep the chain from jumping off of the sprocket and getting onto the shell between the sprocket and spokes.  If you plan to regularly ride with a really loose chain, you might want to install one of those.

Would that be the middle one of the parts here https://www.rohloff.de/en/shop/chain-guide?tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=1338 ?

The practical test is whether it's possible to manually push the chain off-line while it's moving such that it comes off the chainring (more likely) or sprocket (less likely).

[mickeg]

If I recall correctly, Rohloff sells an optional chainguard to keep the chain from jumping off of the sprocket and getting onto the shell between the sprocket and spokes.  If you plan to regularly ride with a really loose chain, you might want to install one of those.

Would that be the middle one of the parts here https://www.rohloff.de/en/shop/chain-guide?tt_products%5BbackPID%5D=1338 ?

The practical test is whether it's possible to manually push the chain off-line while it's moving such that it comes off the chainring (more likely) or sprocket (less likely).

I had only seen it described before, not familiar with the actual device.  But that sure sounds like what I remembered reading.

But, I think it is a mistake to intentionally run a loose chain.  More sprocket and chain wear could result. 

[martinf]

The last post at that thread was my comment that I decided to switch to the Hubbub adapter.  I did that and have been very happy with it.

I have tried two solutions to the drop bar/Rohloff shifter issue:

1 at the bar end on a Hubbub adapter
2 under the straight part of the handlebar on a Thorn accessory bar

Both worked for me, but in the long run I preferred the Hubbub adapter at the bar end. Perhaps because I previously used bar end shifters on my derailleur bikes for a few decades.

The Hubbub adapter can be copied by cutting a short piece of aluminium tubing (mine came from an old folding chair) with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the handlebar, then gluing this into the end of the handlebar, and finally gluing a short piece of 22.2 mm mountain bike handlebar onto the tubing. I used this for several thousand kms on a bike equipped with a Nexus 8 Premium hub, at first with a Shimano Nexus twistgrip, then with an Alfine trigger type shifter.

One problem with a bar end shifter is that it can get scraped, usually when parking the bike. I don't use a stand and generally lean the bike against a wall or tree. I lean the right hand side of the bike against the support because I have a bar-end mounted mirror on the left hand side and the mirror is more fragile than the shifter.

I recently fitted a Rohloff to one of my Brompton folders. As there wasn't enough space for the shifter on the handlebars I used a variant of the second solution and fitted the shifter to a Brompton lamp bracket mount, which puts the shifter below and slightly to the left of the right hand brake lever. I find this is a convenient position for the Brompton handlebar.

[PH]

I know several people who run a "Magic gear" on a single chainline, though I don't know any who do so with out a fair bit of faffing with it.  I wouldn't choose it over a tensioner that works and the Rohloff one does that fine. Not as good as a frame designed to take care of it, but fairly close.  Trouble with chain elongation is it isn't predictable or linier, I can think I've got it sussed and the next chain, same make and model as the previous one, behaves differently.  Sometimes they need adjusting twice in the first few hundred miles, then never again, sometimes they go for thousands without being touched, then need frequent adjustment, or any combination of that.  I've also learnt from experience that not being able to pull a chain off by hand isn't a guarantee it won't come off under pedaling force and if it does then it isn't just the hub finish that might need protecting 

[Ozar]

Welcome to the club.

Be prepared for an extended running-in period.

As Chalo Colina, a sometime Boeing toolmaker and the designer of the 48 spoke Rohloff wheel, said, "A Rohloff is run in just about the time a Shimano Nexus hub lies itself down to die."

First post ... but I'm happy to accept the welcome ... Looking forward to benefiting from your experience

I'm one month in to my proud ownership of an R & M Supercharger 2 and I'm completely loving it after a lifetime of different bikes with derailleurs. My bike is equipped with e-Rohloff and belt drive so many of the popular concerns with cables and chains do not affect me. The gear change is super quick and smooth - I am always aware to ease off the pedals when changing.

I am due for my first ('free') service - approx 500 km - and am inclined to ask my store to change the oil. My thinking is that max wear occurs when running in, so why not flush out the gritty oil right away?

What is the experienced opinion? Unnecessary overkill? Just want to do the best I can for my expensive equipment.

Your opinions appreciated

OD

[PH]

Yes, it makes sense and can't do any harm, it's what I do though I don't think it's ever been Rohloff advice.

Those R&M bikes are top of the range, I had a test ride on a Multicharger when considering a cargo bike, though it was with the Enviolo gearing rather than the Rohloff, I almost regret not getting it, though something half the price is doing the job fine.

[Andre Jute]

I am due for my first ('free') service - approx 500 km - and am inclined to ask my store to change the oil. My thinking is that max wear occurs when running in, so why not flush out the gritty oil right away?

Indeed, welcome, Ozar, and congratulations on your spiffing new bike.

My first response is the same as Paul's, an early oil change can't do your new Rohloff HGB any harm.

On the other hand, you say your gear change is already more than acceptably smooth, so it doesn't sound necessary. And there is the consideration that the very fine metal fragments created when a new geared implement is first used, as the gears settle in, is in fact acting as a grinding paste for a necessary action.

If you're old enough to remember when cars had 3000 mile (5000km) oil change requirements, you'll also remember when new or after work on any part of the power train those cars had the first oil change at 1000m/1600km. That was a compromise between not filtering out beneficial swarf while it was still doing useful work polishing the gears together, and not leaving it past the stage where it was no longer useful and might be harmful.

In your shoes, 500km would strike me as too soon, so I'd leave the first oil change to a 1000km and then do it myself so I can use a magnet and a magnifying glass to see what was actually knocked off the Rohloff gears.

It's pretty much six of one and half a dozen of the other, though. If you're planning to let your dealer do all your oil changes, as is common for owners of this class of German bike, the dealer doing it with the free service at 500km avoids the inconvenience of taking your bike back in another month.

***
If you keep up this rate of riding, you'll notch up 6000km a year -- and soon you'll be glad you opted for the durable Rohloff.

[Ozar]

Thank you both, Andre and Paul - this forum is a great resource and your attention is appreciated. I am so impressed by the Rohloff ... it's a masterpiece of engineering miniaturisation.
This bike has re-kindled my love and enthusiasm for cycling - looking forward to cycling well into my eighties!

[JohnR]

The generation of the fine metal powder will be a progressive process as the gears are used and polished. I'm sure that Rohloff ensure that everything is clean prior to assembly so, unlike a British-built car of 50 years ago, there's no benefit of a very early oil change and there's less applied force in bike gears for doing the grinding compared to cars. Rohloff's concern, when setting the oil change guidance, is more likely to relate to oil contamination by water getting through the seals and the possible slow loss of oil through leakage.

It's financially worthwhile getting the bulk oil https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/rohloff-all-seasons-cleaning-oil-speedhub-oil-twin-pack-2-x-250-ml-bottle-for-speedhub-50014-8409/ plus the tube https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/rohloff-oil-filler-tube-with-threaded-connector-8502/ (if you can find a suitable syringe) otherwise one of the kits https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/rohloff-full-oil-change-kit-8410/. I note a comment, however, indicating the bulk oil shelf life being 5 years.

[PH]

(if you can find a suitable syringe) otherwise one of the kits

Just to note, SJS sell the syringe separately.   

[Andre Jute]

I consider it worthwhile for the new Rohloff owner to buy two of the single service kits when ordering the bike or the box, so he/she/it can have two sets of bottles and two syringes, one set for clean oil, one set for dirty oil. And with the service kits, it makes sense to buy several additional closure studs ready-prepared with the right gunk by Rohloff so as to save postage later.

After two services with the (expensive) official full kit, I should think the new Rohloff owner is ready to buy oil in more economical bulk and to power-service his Rohloff:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=13327.msg100044#msg100044
In the same place, read down for a discussion of re-using studs with gunk still on them, and what the Right Gunk is and is not.

[AndrewJ]

The last post at that thread was my comment that I decided to switch to the Hubbub adapter.  I did that and have been very happy with it.

I have tried two solutions to the drop bar/Rohloff shifter issue:

1 at the bar end on a Hubbub adapter
2 under the straight part of the handlebar on a Thorn accessory bar

Both worked for me, but in the long run I preferred the Hubbub adapter at the bar end. Perhaps because I previously used bar end shifters on my derailleur bikes for a few decades.

The Hubbub adapter can be copied by cutting a short piece of aluminium tubing (mine came from an old folding chair) with an outside diameter slightly smaller than the inside diameter of the handlebar, then gluing this into the end of the handlebar, and finally gluing a short piece of 22.2 mm mountain bike handlebar onto the tubing. I used this for several thousand kms on a bike equipped with a Nexus 8 Premium hub, at first with a Shimano Nexus twistgrip, then with an Alfine trigger type shifter.

One problem with a bar end shifter is that it can get scraped, usually when parking the bike. I don't use a stand and generally lean the bike against a wall or tree. I lean the right hand side of the bike against the support because I have a bar-end mounted mirror on the left hand side and the mirror is more fragile than the shifter.

I recently fitted a Rohloff to one of my Brompton folders. As there wasn't enough space for the shifter on the handlebars I used a variant of the second solution and fitted the shifter to a Brompton lamp bracket mount, which puts the shifter below and slightly to the left of the right hand brake lever. I find this is a convenient position for the Brompton handlebar.

Hi all, sorry for long period of radio silence. I gave myself a summer of riding to think on the re-placement of the Rohloff shifter from the co-axial site on the stem. Bar-end is still tempting, mostly because it would let me keep a hand on the bars when steering called for that. But I have talked myself into a hybrid of the Thorn Accessory Bar and my existing  decaleur... I think a 22.2 mm cylinder could be drilled to accept the decaleur extensions AND serve as a brake cable bridge for my centerpull Mafac brakes, while also letting me mount the Rohloff shifter ahead of the stem and below the bars. That's the more natural wrist action for twist-shifting than the way O had it co-axial to the stem.

Anyone gone with the Thorn accessory bar and just really hated it? Is there an inherent problem with that positioning?