Good grief, you may as well have asked for saddle recommendations - we all know there's only one answer to that question 
At first I wondered if you were an innocent wandering abroad, begging to be kicked, then I when I checked your name I laughed out loud. Of course there is only one saddle worth sitting on, and it is the double rail triple helical spring Brooks B73.
My Nomad started off with the wide Thorn comfort bars. They were discarded after a few months as they lacked anything resembling 'comfort', unless 'comfort' involves both pins and needles in the hands and sore elbows (I could never quite suss that one out but figure it was a unique combination of bar width and sweepback angle forcing an elbow angle that simply didn't work with my physiology. It was weird).
Next attempt was narrower straight bars. These solved the elbow issues and let me isolate the blame for the pins and needles directly on the ergon grips.
Let me say first that I'm on record here, many times, as praising the Thorn designer for his component choices and his general wisdom. But the first time I saw a photo of those Thorn "comfort" bars, I can't repeat on a conference that may be read by other cyclists' children what I said. They are obviously likely to cause residual stress, especially to tourers who will hold onto them for long stretches every day.
Narrower straight bars are also fundamentally antipathetic to the natural angles of the human skeleton and its joints.
There is nothing ergonomic about either of these bars.
I wouldn't have drop bars within a mile of my bike because a) they would kill my back and b) I'm never on my bike for longer than two hours these days so the single shortcoming of my preferred North Road bars don't appear. However, the thing about drop bars is that they have a really important advantage for a tourer: several hand positions, and consequent different spine positions.
The same applies to butterfly bars, if to a lesser extent.
Mind you, your suggestion of adding extra grips perpendicular to the main handlebar would give North Road bars the extra grip required, but I still wouldn't recommend them for touring because they presume you're sitting upright on the bike.
There's an exception though, which favour North Road bars, which, by themselves are already the most ergonomic bars you can buy. I have on my Gazelle Toulouse a Gazelle proprietary stem called the Switch, which allows you by pulling a lever on the stem to angle it up for comfort or down for speed. So what, you say. Well, the other end also rotates the handlebar in the gripper. Then you close the lever, and you have your handlebars and in particular its grips in a position for a speed run or a long ride against a stiff wind. When I made a ton-up run (truck assisted, of course) the bike I chose from all my bikes was this fat Gazelle for rich, soft commuters. I set the North Road bars down almost to the mudguard (yah, the only thing I even thought of removing was the rack, and I decided against that because if the rear tyre blew, it would protect my back) and then turned the bars in the Switch stem so that the grips pointed almost straight down to the road, set the seat up a fraction, and that allowed me to present a straight back, which is worth progressively more as you go faster. Uno Kalloy makes an inexpensive copy of this no-tools adjustable stem. I really don't know why it isn't more widely known in the touring community.
Attempt no. 3 was a combination of butterfly bars and Grab-on Grips
Where you have those spy mirrors is exactly where I would, most of the time, want to hold those bars, as the most ergonomic position the offer. But I love the clever innovation of the Grab-on Grips.
