Anyone control their dyno powered front light with handlebar switch? Any posts?

[tt2cycletours]

Dear all,

I couldn't find any posts on connecting a handlebar switch to control a hub dynamo powered front light.  I have bought a Philips Saferide front light and I have decided to mount it on my front rack (this rack is in addition to low-loaders).  But when I have the front rack loaded I wont be able to easily switch the light and it is not LDR controlled. 

So has anyone is a similar position tried mounting a switch on their handlebars?  See url of motorbike switch I was considering trying (yes I will need to buy an electric horn for this to be worthwhile)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-E-Bike-Headlight-Horn-Signal-Handlebar-ON-OFF-Switch-Button-Hot-Sell-/331639819230?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

I know B&M have a light with a h/b switch but I would like to use this one and I don't trust any B&M front lights, as they are not full water-proof.  I read reviews on this B&M and there were complaints of water ingress causing malfunction.

Any wisdom/experience/or DON'T DO IT advice welcome   And yes, I would also like to have a light with a full-beam mode, or is 60 lux as bright as a cars full-beam??

Thanks, Tim

[mickeg]

At this other forum post there is someone that uses a light that does not have a switch, he added a switch but in my opinion he did it the hard way by custom fabricating a switch bracket.

http://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1034535-myog-switch-housing-dyno-light-charger.html

[martinf]

I've done this in the past. Not for a while though. Downsides of a handlebar switch are the extra wiring and soldering, so more possible failure points, and, more important, the switches I used all eventually failed through water ingress.

I now have B&M Cyo front lamps on nearly all the family bikes, mostly with auto sensors so that when/if the switch starts failing I can hopefully leave it on auto.

Switches on the older B&M front and rear lamps tended to fail rather quickly. Those on the Cyos have been OK so far.

Also had a horn when I had a home-built rechargeable lighting system. I gave up on this for two reasons:

- traffic didn't associate the horn with a bicycle.
- I reckon that it distracted me and it was safer to concentrate on braking or taking avoiding action rather than mess with a horn.

[il padrone]

I know B&M have a light with a h/b switch but I would like to use this one and I don't trust any B&M front lights, as they are not full water-proof.  I read reviews on this B&M and there were complaints of water ingress causing malfunction.

No water ingress problems with mine, despite being ridden in plenty of heavy rain. The water problem was very specific related to people placing the switch lead into the light with the lead coming from above as far as I am aware. The lead must have a loop below the light so the lead runs up to the connection point - and basically what the light design almost requires. Some people have just done silly things. Also it is advised not to mount the B&M lights upside down, to prevent any water access.

The new version of the Luxos has the remote lead permanently connected to avoid this water ingress risk.

My observations of my wife's and son's Cyo 60lux in traffic both day and night-time have suggested to me that they appear to be as bright as a car's low-beam headlight. No confirmation with a light meter or such, just personal observation with cars alongside them.

[Andre Jute]

If you use fenders and don't do anything stupid like mounting the lamp upside down, the BUMM IQ lamps are probably the best you can buy that are generally available and for a reasonable price, and you just leave them switched on day and night (the LED has a 50k hours MBTF), so no switch required. I always buy the ones with all the bells and whistles including the selfswitching light sensor but I leave them on whenever the bike moves all the same as a safety feature.

I had switched lamps, high and low, on a homemade set of halogens, and the best switch available was presealed with pictails both ends, and a couple of slots in the silicone covering for fitting with tiewraps. However, the pigtails had to be cleanly crimped in and totally covered with hot-melt wire links rather than just wrapped with electricians tape or covered with common shrink-wrap, or water got in. The switch is always the most vulnerable part because it is the only moving part.

[mickeg]

..., and you just leave them switched on day and night (the LED has a 50k hours MBTF), so no switch required. ...

That is a good point.  If you are also using a USB charger, there is a reason to have a switch so that the light does not draw power away from that charger.  But, if no charger, you probably can't feel the difference in drag by having the light on.  I just leave my light on when I am not using the USB.

With a previous setup I had, I had two lights, both unswitched (they were B&M D Lumotec Oval bottle generator version lights, thus no switches) powered at all times from the hub, the two lights ran in series.

[tt2cycletours]

Thanks for the opinions/feedback - very helpful.   Yeah, I think leaving bike on its side on a very wet night, and occasionally washing bike upside down may explain my 4 B&M front light failures.  Will post report of finished bike, would really like to have indicators somewhere on handlebar as well.  There are interesting products out there. 

[mickeg]

... and occasionally washing bike upside down may explain my 4 B&M front light failures.  ...

Probably.

If you mount it where water can spray up from the tire, that could be similar to washing it upside down. 

I have often mounted a battery powered light on the top of the hoop over my low riders, the tire can spray that area pretty good.  But, I only put my battery powered light on that bracket at night, it is normally stored in a dry spot elsewhere.  The photo was taken in daytime, but the light was needed in daytime for a tunnel.