Brooks Champion Flyer Squeek

[Matt2matt2002]

Here is my Brooks Champion Flyer.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CpDp-eYdVpM/Vf7knTfDnQI/AAAAAAAAI0k/QanXW2_yxQE/w958-h719-no/BrooksFlyer%2B003.jpg



Very comfortable - no problems with the ride.
I must have done 3,000 Km on it - so we know each other intimately.
 

On today's ride I noticed a squeak and found the nut to be slightly loose.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-FeQMpGPSZZM/Vf7lajjM0FI/AAAAAAAAI04/fH3ZZp-qxcA/w614-h819-no/BrooksFlyer%2B001.jpg

I don't think there is a washer on it.

I don't have the proper Brooks spanner but managed to tighten it up with an 'inch' spanner.
13 mm was too loose.
Anyone know the correct size?

Also, should there be another nut?
On this end?
[url]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-d4blHKGNCMg/Vf7lAJ_ElCI/AAAAAAAAI0w/bAghk36GWjc/w614-h819-no/BrooksFlyer%2B002.jpg[url]



Many thanks folks.

And thanks Dan!!

[Danneaux]

Hi Matt,

You have all the nuts you need on your saddle -- none missing.

Most of my Brooks saddles (all B.17s) eventually develop squeaks and creaks. I've found the culprits to be primarily the "nose cap" over the front saddle rail return, the underside of the but, the head of the bolt where it enters the nose cap, and the riveted joint where the saddle rails engage the steel cantle plate at the rear.

Inverting the saddle and applying a single small drop of oil in each of those places is enough to quieten things up for the next several years, at which point the noises return and so does the strategically applied odd drop of oil.

I fixed a friend's squeaky Flyer by doing the same -- and also applying a tiny drop of oil where the springs seated. It has now remained quiet for the last five or so years, so there is hope. Just keep the oil to a minimum and take care to keep it off the leather. I've tried a variety of oils and found the best for this application is a bit of 10W-40 motor oil (new, of course). Others were a bit too thick and viscous to penetrate where needed (Phil Tenacious oil) or too thin to remain properly in place (Tri-Flow and others applied from a drip-tube or on the end of a toothpick).

Very nicely taken photos, Matt.

Hoping this helps.

All the best,

Dan.

[Danneaux]

Matt,

Apologies for neglecting the other part of your question. The nuts on my half-dozen or so Brooks (B.17, yours might vary?) saddles average 13.34mm (13.28-13.48mm) across the flats. The "Official" Brooks spanners I have are all a poor fit, being either too large or too small, seemingly depending on die wear and plating thickness. A 13mm combination open-box spanner will *just* wedge across the flats, but poorly. A 14mm is too big. In SAE measurements, the average .0524in, just too large for a half-inch. A 9/16 fits poorly, but will turn.

Fortunately, the nut doesn't need turning often and doesn't (shouldn't!) require high force, so a slightly too-large wrench is probably the best alternative to use. 17/32in should be spot-on. A 5/16 British Standard Whitworth wrench may well work also.

Keep in mind, Swallow nut sizes are different from the rest.

Best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

The sprung saddles often develop a squeak in the nose section where there is moving metal on metal contact.    In yours, the black rod part that the seatpost clamps to and the silver parts in the nose area move relative to each other as the springs compress and expand.  I usually use a bit of proofide as a lubricant since if that gets on the leather, it is not a big deal.  But I usually just live with minor squeaks in the saddle.  But if you are careful like I am sure Dan is, using oil or grease is probably fine too as a few drops in teh wrong place won't hurt anything.

I think I have only tightened the screw on three Brooks, one was over a decade old when I bought the bike, one was a used saddle when I bought it, the other was too much of a hammock shape after using it on several rainy days.  All my other Brooks are still as they were adjusted when I bought them.

If you remove the saddle to do anything, I prefer to pull the seatpost out of the frame, that way I keep the angle and setback on the seatpost the same.  I also wrap some electrical tape around the seatpost to mark how far in it goes into the frame.  I leave a gap of about 5mm between the tape and frame, then if the gap has ever visually disappeared I know the seatpost slipped.

[Matt2matt2002]

Thanks lads.
Great info Dan and good tips Mick.
I should be able to solve the squeak problem.

BTW.
Why aren't my pictures appearing ' open ' on my phone and tablet?

[Danneaux]

Fixed the first one for you, Matt. You need to click on the "Inline Image" icon. It will place brackets around img so your posts will display inline.

The problem is you had [ url ] and not [ img ] *and* the root URL for the photo was incorrect. What you need to do first is click on the photo so it opens full size at google, then copy that URL. Then, return to your post and click on the inline image icon (lower-left among those offered above the Compose box; the icon looks like Mona Lisa...), then paste the URL between the brackets. Presto, should be done.

If you want to practice on the other photos in your post, you surely may. If you get stuck, I can help you as I get time, or I can fix it for you.

All the best,

Dan.

[David Simpson]

I've tried a variety of oils and found the best for this application is a bit of 10W-40 motor oil (new, of course). Others were a bit too thick ... or too thin ...

Dan, your bike knowledge never ceases to amaze me. You even know what viscosity of oil is best for lubricating a squeaky Brooks saddle.

- Dave

[Danneaux]

Many thanks for your kind words, Dave!

All the best,

Dan.