Great story, and no need to apologize for long johns: every (ice) hockey player wears them, 'cept for those of us who cut down on weight by using panty hose. On my Swedish safari, I used long johns over my cycling shorts instead of standard rain pants, 'cos quality polypro keeps you warm even when wet, weighs very little--less than just about anything 'cept panty hose--and dries quickly.
Back to the thread: loved the Turkey fotos! On the shelter question: The Turkish dep't of culture & tourism is restoring caravanserai (plural form??) along the different routes of the Silk Road. These are spaced about every 40 kms, a day's gambol by camel back in the day. They're intended for The Tourist Trade, but I couldn't help but think how satisfying it would be to roll into one of these after a day's ride across the Great Anatolian Plateau. (See below.)