Fire starting.

[expr]

Stuart this might be one for you.

I have allways wanted to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together, I have been watching bear grills on discovery etc and have looked on you tube but wanted some real life advice.

Is there a particular type of wood to use both for the vertical rubbing piece and the base of which will become notched for the coal to form, have you had any luck with trying this yourself.  I have used the magnesium block with the flint and this works well, I also wanted to try the potassium permanganate with glycerin or radiator fluid containing ethylene glycol which bear grills uses.

[stutho]

Fire starting using a the fire bow method is actual pretty easy once you get the hang of it.  There are lots of different combos that will work but my favourite combination is  Ivy for the base board and a hazel spindle.  Holy makes a good wood for the bow and a bit of oak for the bearing block.  One trick several  people use is to add a limpet shell to the bearing block.   

The one most important tip I could give you is body position.  Kneel on your right leg with your left foot on the ivy. hold the bearing block in the left hand and SUPPORT / LOCKED THE LEFT HAND AGAINST THE LEFT KNEE.  you then bow with the right hand.  I can't get an ember if there is a gap between my left hand and my left knee but If I lock  them then I can get an ember ever time.

I am also very fond of using a traditionally flint and steel  with char cloth  which works very well and is far more compact than a fire bow.   I have tried (and failed) using a hand spindle - In fact I have NEVER seen it done except on telly.  I have also done the wire wool and battery method (for a demonstration)   I am sure there are a few more I have tried but it is getting late! I think my wife has used the potassium permanganate with glycerol (sp?) method in forest school - to make a fire that magically lights. (I have never tried this one) 

Having said all that if I am out with kids I tend to use a ferro-magnesium rod and some cotton wool.  Same goes for the wife.  If I don't have any cotton wool I can use the rod to directly light a feather stick, presuming I have my knife on me, but it is a bit more work. The modern ferro-magnesium rod  is a marvel,  I would much rather have one than a lighter.  After my knife it is the most important item I carry when bushcrafting. 

[expr]

Stuart, thanks ever so much for the info its definatley something I want to try. You seem to have similar interests to me.

You mention the knife, I also collect different knives I have quite a few buck knives, some swiss army xlt/ champs and many hunting and sheath knives. I very much like the steel that buck use its ATS 34 also known as 154cm I think, I notice allot of the bushcraft knives use high carbon steel and are up at the high end for price especially if you go for a ray mears etc...

Did you catch the pic of snowdon posted.

[stutho]

Expr
sorry for the slow reply - I was off canoeing on the weekend again

My bushcraft knife is a Carbon Steel Mora Clipper. The wife and I also have a few of the stainless version that we lend out to the scouts etc.  They are a basic blade that can take abuse but sharpen up nicely and best of all they are only £8.68

http://www.springfields.co.uk/bush-craft-field-kit/knives-multi-tools/knives-axes-saws/?id=4855

If I don't have my axe on me (which is a far bit of the time) then my knife sees a lot of batoning (hammering the back of the blade with a heavy log - for those of you that aren't into bushcraft)  I don't think I could bring myself to baton a knife that cost £235 There are actually even more expensive blades out there than the Ray Mears Woodlore - I am sure they all cut wood very well. But then my £8.68 will also cut a feather stick. In short they are the kind of Item I lust after but would never actual buy.  I do have a smattering  of other edged tools but I am not a collector  all our kit sees a fair amount of uses and abuse. 

I have to admit that while I am not about to part with a few hundred pounds on a new knife I would like to go on a knife making course.  I have being promising myself that one day I will book onto one David Budd's knife making courses.

http://www.davebudd.com/index.html

I have seen this guy in action and he is nothing short of remarkable - a true craftsman and one of a very small number of people who can make a true forged blade (i.e. no grinding) You will note that his knifes don't look anything like most knifes - because they are have not be ground.

Stuart


 

[expr]

Hi stuart, the mora clipper is a very under rated knife. I don't know why they don't charge more for it! The Mora range is very good indeed.


The ray mears knives are very over priced indeed and much of which is the hype that goes with the name. I have found the Buck Alpha hunter in both folding and fixed blade to be excellent with fantastic blade retention and ease of sharpening. I have an old buckmaster 184 from the 80s which has lasted the time as well, quite a large and heavy knife but good for chopping etc,,

 
Hope the canoeing went ok, my boss at work goes white water rafting in wales at a specially designed centre.

I bought some books of ebay a couple of months ago on knot tying which has been great learning, there are literally hundreds to learn but as the book suggests you generally end up using just a few day to day, I found the bottle knot a good one to learn, and very usefull.

[julk]

expr,
Slightly off topic, but if you are into knots try reading the "Ashley Book of Knots" - it has about 3000 to try.
julk

[expr]

Great thank you Julian I will have a look for a copy. 



I've just had a look on Ebay and it seems to be going for around £40 ish, so im going to keep my eye out for a bargain I think.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Update, I have just had a look at the books I have and they are " The Hamlyn book of Knots" by Geoffrey Budworth, and "The directory of knots" by John Shaw. Both of the books show around 80- 100 different knots.

I take it you have some affiliation of interest with knots possibly?

[julk]

Dave,
I am into knots due to spending my late teens and most of my 20s sailing an OK dinghy competitively around the UK. Marriage at 30 and a family meant the focus then was getting them to join in sailing.

I still have a Mirror dinghy lying in the back garden awaiting some spare money, got rid of an OK and 2 Optimists in recent years.

Cycling seems to have taken priority since I retired, but knots still interest me.
I bought my Ashley Book of Knots in the 70s and probably paid a similar price to today.
Julian.

[expr]

Ah ha, I see now, a case of you need to know I think! When you actually study what the different knots do, its quite understandable why you would use certain ones for specific purposes. You wouldn't believe how many there can be.