Andre, the notes and photos of my mini-tour are not quite finished...
Instead:
Last overnight camping trip of the yearOn Tuesday/Wednesday this past week, I took advantage of a benevolent weather forecast to make one last overnight trip of the year: an afternoon ride N and W of Ottawa to a campsite in Fitzroy Provincial Park, on the south bank of the Ottawa River, returning home the next morning via the Québec side. Total distance would be about 115 – 135 kms, depending on the return route.
The weather proved to be nothing short of brilliant for riding: sunny and warm, with temps around 19 or 20 and gentle winds. And, the foliage was just beginning to turn. Photo 1 below shows the Old Carp Road, leading NW out of the city towards the small agricultural village that has now morphed into a suburb within the extended boundary of the metropolitan area.
Photo 2 below is in West Québec, a view across a field of canola (or mustard?) towards the Eardley Escarpment, the ancient granite ridge that parallels the northeastern bank of the river. (Most of my photos of this area are taken from atop that escarpment, usually from Champlain Lookout. A plaque there informs the reader/viewer that 12,000 years ago, “The spot where you are standing was under 2200 metres of ice.”)
Leaving Carp mid-afternoon on Tuesday, I saw a touring bike and rider coming my way. He waved me down, and I stopped to chat. Andrew was riding from BC to Newfoundland, and could I give him directions to a motel in Kanata, a western ‘burb of Ottawa? I couldn’t but I could tell him how to get through Carp to a main street in Kanata, where he could almost certainly get the info he needed. He was riding a heavily loaded Surly Big Dummy – see Photo 4 below, with his bike posed beside Bay Lakes in Banff. Andrew told me he was 50, riding across Canada after finishing a career in the military. He’d been a paratrooper in the 101st Airborne, so we compared notes briefly, myself and my wife from military families, but not members the armed forces. He mentioned that he’d been born in Uganda, and I asked how that had happened. His parents had been missionaries, and he’d been born just as Idi Amin had seized power; and after that, his parents had returned to Canada.
What a spooky coincidence: I had been in Kampala in January 1971, around the time he was an infant. At that time, I was ¾ of the way through a grand hitchhiking-bus-train-and-boat journey through East Africa, from the Luapula Valley in Zambia to Kilimanjaro, Mombasa, Nairobi, and Kampala. That city was full of mobile gangs of armed men, some in uniform, some not, and there was a Seriously Bad Vibe—although at that time, regular citizens had no sense of the horrors to come. I left as quickly as I could, taking the SS Victoria across the big lake, and then train and buses back to my teaching post in Luapula.
We exchanged phone numbers, and I wished him bon voyage and good weather. If/if the weather holds, he could reach The Rock by the end of October.
Fitzroy Park was maybe 10% full, so I found my favourite campsite beside the small carp river, near its confluence with the Ottawa. Photo 3 below shows Osi the Raven in Updated Touring Gear mode: Lightweight Altura Vortex 30-ltr panniers in front; a Revelate Sweetroll 11-ltr handlebar bag attached to my Thorn Accessory bar, stuffed with my rain gear; a small (4 ltr) Axiom handlebar bag atop that, carrying odds & ends but also serving to protect my Sinewave charger from the elements, because the Sweetroll left it exposed; and my medium Revelate Tangle frame bag replacing the usual large ditto. The Arkel Ultra-lite panniers at the rear are unchanged, as is my Tubus Vega rack and my Tarptent Moment one-person tent.
Pretty much everything worked well, with one exception. The Vortex front panniers offer a considerable weight saving (almost 3 lbs) over the Arkel Dauphins they have temporarily replaced. Their fastening apparatus of straps and clips is fiddly in the extreme, however, a world apart from the Arkels’ hooks-cams-and-cord mechanism. As an example: My Arkel Ultra-lites use an elasticated hook to mate with the lower V of my Tubus rack. Why could Altura not use something similar with their Vortex bags? Instead, the rider has to thread a Velcro strap through a clip, and to do so by feel, as there’s a pannier in the line of sight. It’s lighter than an elasticated hook, I guess, but after spending some minutes trying to get it to co-operate, it felt like an unnecessarily elaborate rip-off.
The night in Fitzroy was memorable for not-so-happy reasons. The setting was beautiful, and the birds—especially the geese, prepping for their southerly trek—magnificent as always. But, the night was more humid than anything I can remember—heavy dew, buckets of condensation everywhere, and dense fog. Anticipating a long steep (12%) climb up the Eardley Escarpment, I had cut a few corners on weight, too, including departing from my routine of packing a tarp. A “good idea at the time” turned out to be a classic false economy – the tarp would have ensured a much drier breakfast and quicker packup.
As it turned out, I left the campground an hour-plus later than I normally would, and decided not to climb the scarp after all, opting instead for a shorter return route. Happily, that included part of Québec’s Route verte cycling network, which led me past the colours in photo #2. And, I dodged an often busy secondary highway, reaching home instead via the cycle paths on the Québec side of the river. The Eardley climb will still be there next year.