Has anyone heard of a setup like this?
<nods> Yes, it is not unknown in the recumbent world, where the Rohloff is also sometimes used in conjunction with a mid-drive that may be derailleur shifted as well. A Dutch friend of mine dropped dropped about €7,450 on his carbon Quest velomobile and is planning to convert to a Rohloff drive from derailleurs.
I imagine there must be some type of chain tensioner.
Yes, there is, sometimes a derailleur mounted at the mid-drive, other times at the rear dropout in the usual position as a tensioner. A mid- or long-cage rear derailleur might be needed depending on the gap between front chainrings.
Among many discussions of similar setups is this one:
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/archive/index.php?t-127318.htmlI know of at least three setups where the Rohloff was paired with a Schlumpf, Hammerschmidt or similar 2-sp internally geared bottom bracket setup. The owners had to take care not to exceed Rohloff's effective ratios, so they geared their bikes' low ranges for direct drive within those limits and used the crankset for overdrive. A discussion of some of the merits and cautions can be found here:
https://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=133973 The topic was briefly discussed here on this Forum by a Nomad owner who also had a recumbent trike:
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=12517.msg92807#msg92807As a longtime fan of half-step derailleur gearing, I have sometimes pondered a half-step Rohloff (a two chainring, 28-sp setup) as a conversion for one of my randonneur bikes, but after using my Nomad's conventional Rohloff setup, I think simpler is better. Chain efficiency losses quickly mount where the chain wraps around tiny 10t derailleur tension and jockey pulley, and a person also runs into issues of chain deflection. Maintenance increases as the pulleys usually use sleeved bushings, though sealed (cartridge) bearings would help (or even old Huret ball-and-cone pulleys) and the pulleys hang further down into the splash done where dirt and water are more likely to be kicked up.
If you use a chain tensioner with a single-speed or IGH setup, my tests show the most efficient kind use a single pulley pushing up from below, which maximizes chain wrap while minimizing friction.
Best,
Dan.