Wheels: Tensiometers and oiled nipples

[jags]

dan might correct me on this but  but when i fit new tyres i alway  drop some triflo oil into spokes been doing it for years so it must work keeps the spokes from creaking under pressure.

anto

[Slightly edited to fit new heading after splitting from an older topic that went off-topic. -- Dan]

[Danneaux]

dan might correct me on this but  but when i fit new tyres i alway  drop some triflo oil into spokes been doing it for years so it must work Grin Grin keeps the spokes from creaking under pressure.

Hey Anto! It depends on whether I built the wheel using LocTite, nipple compound, anti-seize, or heavy oil on the spoke threads, but if they're already oiled -- yep! -- it sure makes it easier to turn the nipples later if you oil the seats. If they're LocTited, then once that has broken free, the nipple *threads* will turn okay, but I still put a drop of oil on the nipple flare/ferrule to reduce friction if I have to retrue due to damage, etc.

By the way, I have noticed no difference in long-term trueness with any of the above spoke thread-treatment methods. If the wheel is properly tensioned it will largely stay that way, barring damage. Using *some* kind of thread lubricant while building (and yes, threadlocking compound provides a measure of lubrication in its liquid state) is essential to run the nipples up properly for a wheel with high, even tension that stays true.

The real benefit from oiling comes from lubricating the interface to reduce friction between the spoke head and rim well/nipple seat/ferrule for easy nipple turning if you're trying to re-true the wheel. If the wheel is already properly tensioned and stress-relieved, it shouldn't make any noise while in use. A creaking wheel can be a sign of improper (low) or uneven tension or unrelieved spoke windup. Oil will help the noise in that case, but won't address the core problem.

For those interested in Wheelsmith co-founder 'Ric Hjertberg's take on wheelbuilding, see this four-part series (trying to keep this thread largely on-topic, I'll bet Ric's thoughts will generate some discussion as another thread at the following link): http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=9043.0

I think you'll really like your new tires, Lewis. Please let us know how you fare with them.

Best,

Dan.

[jags]

Dan is that park tensioner any good i think it cost around 68euro might be worth buying.

[Danneaux]

Dan is that park tensioner any good i think it cost around 68euro might be worth buying.

Yes, it is good. I like the Wheelsmith one pretty well, but it has a vernier scale and they seem to be individually calibrated which can be good or bad when comparing to another. There are others like Hozan and DT, so it is worth pricing them out. Sometimes, they all go on sale depending on the outlet, so it pays to check first. I love Hozan tools in general and the DT is nice, but so are the prices.  http://www.amazon.com/DT-Swiss-Analog-Spoke-Tensiometer/dp/B001F307BI

The Parks have a high sprung weight, so the readings can vary depending in whether you let them spring open or ease them open. They can be "off" when comparing to another example. The bushings can wear more initially so after using them on several wheels they can read a bit high, but after calibrating -- and if you use them consistently -- they're pretty accurate. Park kept the same gauge calibration but did change their conversion tables awhile ago, so be sure the table matches the tool. The blue-bordered ones are the older versions. Park has updated tables available

You can build a really good wheel that is within specs when checked later by a tensiometer -- without having to rely on a tensiometer. This can be really handy of you have to rebuild a wheel while on-tour with only minimal tools.

If I built wheels on a production basis *and* could afford it, I'd get this little hummer marketed by FSA and Wheel Fanatyk: http://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/wheel-fanatyks-tensiometer/ Sapim make a nice one with an analog readout: http://www.sapim.be/tools/spoke-tension-meter

So, yes, back to your original question, jags: The Park is a good tool that is reasonably priced as these things go and does make it easier to construct a wheel with consistent, high tension -- but you can also do a terrific job without.

Best,

Dan.