Author Topic: Hand Positions  (Read 7424 times)

Matt2matt2002

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #15 on: October 09, 2012, 06:46:52 PM »
Nice picture. Looks like the mirror clamps on?
Over the 'foam'?
Guess this must work but would like to see up close.
Ok - I'm sold.
Santa can bring me one for Xmas!
Never drink and drive. You may hit a bump  and spill your drink

richie thornger

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #16 on: October 09, 2012, 07:32:04 PM »
I'm running comfort bars with gp5s. And a mirror too. Every time I ride a boris bike I keep trying to go for the different positions.
Defo my fave set up so far.
I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal labotomy

julk

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #17 on: October 09, 2012, 07:47:51 PM »
I have tried those Humpert bars, they are different to the comfort bars and didn't suit me because,

• there is no rise
• the grip position is narrower
• the provided grips are foam, ergon gp1s are exceedingly difficult to fit and need some butchering.

If that suits you then you can get 3 different shape ends for the bars.
The ends have a 'quill stem' type fastening with an expanding plug inside the handlebar, it ends up quite heavy.

Swislon

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #18 on: October 09, 2012, 09:49:04 PM »
I have two drop bar audax bikes and an RST with comfort bars. My go to bike is the RST as it is so comfortable. I used to have straight bars with bar ends which were ok but for me the comfort bars are superb. Ergon grips without bar ends. I use three or four different positions including the middle of the bar when I want to get more stretched out. I was skeptical at first but now would not go back. My wife' s RST has comfort a bars and loves them and my mate's Woodrup also has them.

I think you've got to try them just in case they could be perfect for you!!!

Andre Jute

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #19 on: October 10, 2012, 12:10:16 AM »
I received a set of Humpert "Tour" bars on my bike as a default fitting for testing and handling, since I didn't spec a handlebar -- I have several sets of Uno-Kalloy North Road bars of the type I like, and my n'lock bars with the locking cable inside are made for Brain People Switzerland by Kalloy. This Humpert Tour bar is like a flat bar, but swept back a bit at the grips, much like the Thorn bar Mrs Blance developed, and I found even that bit of sweep made it much more natural to hold, not as good as North Road Bars, which have the ideal angle and rise, but much better than flat bars. I took the Tour bar off and gave it away because it had no rise and the adjustable stem I used then was already at the limit of its upward extension.

Also, my bike is sized on the predicate that I would preserve the upright seating suited to its 68 degree geometry, and preferred by me, by using well-swept bars with a good rise. But many people who like a semi-sporting or even a sporting position on the same frame are extremely enthusiastic about those Tour bars.

This Tour bar has a near Humpert relative called the Moon Bar which has a double flat hoop, the second one shorter so that the grips are single. The idea is that you can attach  gear to the second hoop, but it may possibly offer another set of handholds..

A final note: I set my personal ton-up record (truck assisted, so don't get envious) on a Dutch stadssportief (aka comfort bike!) without even taking off the North Road handlebars. But I was riding with a horizontal back, very aerodynamic. How did I do it? My stem was a Gazelle Switch, which is a toollessly adjustable stem offering the usual up-down and curve-around positions but, and this is crucial, also loosens it's grip on the handlebars, so that you can then rotate the bars. (The Kalloy Zoom is a cheap copy, I think.) You do it all by just flipping a single lever; no tools required. For the record attempt I curved the stem downwards, and rotated the bars so the grips were only about 15 degrees, maybe less, off dead vertical, something like the bit of drops where the bottom grips already started their upward turn. This brought my trunk forward and down, as on an extreme road bike. One of the helpers was surprised I hadn't turned over my North Road bars to make pseudo-mustache bars, which with the Gazelle Switch stem would offer an infinity of sporting positions on the bike, even more convincing than my already pretty successful right-way-up North Road/Gazelle Switch combo.

Andre Jute

Andybg

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #20 on: October 10, 2012, 12:48:57 PM »
One other thing I have found while trooling for handlebar solutions is one of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Acor-Handlebar-Extension-for-computers-lights-Garmin-ALLOY-/221123964095?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item337c03ecbf

Looking at it it would be a good solution to be able to fit the rohloff changer to any handlebar and would allow you to play with the position of the shifter either above / below or infront or behind the bar or an inbetween permeation.

I dont particularly like the Rohloff solution on some straight setups do to the following reasons:

One of the grips generally nees cutting down to fit and I find the hand position on that side not so comfortble.

To fit the changer in the brake levers have to be moved inboard so that the reach to the brake levers is not a natural one.

I know these are small issues but I think worth trying to look at a better solution to

Cheers

Andy

Danneaux

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #21 on: October 10, 2012, 05:24:31 PM »
Quote
I know these are small issues but I think worth trying to look at a better solution to...

I salute your efforts, Andy; nearly all parts of the rider-bicycle interface can be improved for individual rider comfort or preference.

The thread on "Drop 'bars & Rohloff" ( http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4049.0 ) is applicable to non-drops as well.

I always figured if I tired of 'drops and went to, say, a Nitto Arc 'bar, I'd simply leave the Rohloff shifter where I have it -- mounted to a T-bar. Choosing an alternative mount allows for a quick changeover between 'bars, great for experimentation,

Looking forward to your solutions, Andy!

All the best,

Dan.

Andre Jute

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #22 on: October 11, 2012, 01:48:07 AM »
I dream of the day when somebody makes a handlebar that from the front of the bike will look something like a W with two shortish central arms and two really long outer arms set at a North Road grip sweep angle.

I had a pair of North Road bars, made by Uno-Kalloy, with straight grip sections fully 8in long, on which I used full length Brooks grips with a Rohloff control, and Magura four finger hydraulic rim brake handles, applied with only two fingers. This was a comfortable solution. The n'lock handlebars with the cable inside that I use now, also made by Uno-Kalloy, are perhaps more elegantly curved but the grip area is shorter and the Brooks grip on that side had to be reduced in length. It works but it is not as comfortable as with the long handle, and the lack of symmetry is a constant aesthetic irritation.

Andre Jute

Danneaux

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #23 on: October 11, 2012, 02:37:50 AM »
Andre,

Is it possible to transfer the n'lock cable from the current handlebars to your older Kalloy Unos? Unless there is something inside like a star-fangled nut (easy enough to remove), I would think the cable might be move from one 'bar to the other.

Hopefully,

Dan. (...who fervently believes there's little that can't be taken apart. Getting it back together again...well, there's the challenge!)

Andre Jute

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #24 on: October 11, 2012, 05:32:40 AM »
Truth is, Dan, I haven't even looked. I just assumed that the cable was fixed on its sliding bit, and its stopper fixed in the tube, by welding. It would be silly to make a security cable that could be easily dismantle from its holder... -- Andre Jute
« Last Edit: October 11, 2012, 11:05:21 AM by Hobbes »

Danneaux

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #25 on: October 11, 2012, 07:28:00 AM »
Andre,

Given the n'lock's quality, I don't think they would weld a plug in the 'bar (welding would require milling to overcome heat distortion and welding heat could anneal the cold-worked temper of the alu 'bar; see: http://www.alumeco.com/Technical_information/Temper_description.aspx ), but it is possible. I suspect a star-fangled nut, which is extremely secure under all normal circumstances, especially if pulled by forces opposite the "star". In the event they did use an SFN, it would be effectively permanent unless one took special measures for removal, which no thief would be equipped to do in normal circumstances...
http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3800.0

Might be worth a peek inside the end someday or firing off a letter of inquiry to n'lock, if you could get the best of all worlds as a result.

Best,

Dan. (...who frequently finds himself looking for challenges and realizes there's no shortage)

Andre Jute

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Re: Hand Positions
« Reply #26 on: October 11, 2012, 11:31:42 AM »
That's an idea, Dan. I'll look into it in the new year, when I'll have time. Meanwhile, I went to check the bars, and you're right, they're alloy. I also have essentially similar bars in steel, but about 20mm wider, and with longer grip area, and also in alloy in two very slightly different styles. (I had an agreement with a bike shop in the city to hold North Road takeoffs for me until I had one for each of my bikes and a spare.) — Andre Jute