Quote from: revelo on January 28, 2012, 06:30:11 PM
But gusts of 50mph can easily whip up during the night on open plains like in the picture above, and knock over a bike held up by a kickstand. Better hope the bike doesn't fall on the derailleur side, or better be prepared to repair/replace your derailleur hanger if it does.
Quote from: il padrone on January 28, 2012, 06:30:11 PM
Never been an issue of any significance for me, in the past 7-8 years of using the kickstand
Nor for me, in my much briefer use of a
Click-stand. I usually put more lean on the stand than Tom Nostrant recommends, placing it so the pedal on that side just clears or nearly clears the Click-stand when the crank is rotated, and I turn the front wheel in the direction of the stand, which seems to aid stability for me.
I was initially cautious and concerned about blow-over or toppling from other means, but I have found that just adding additional lean allowed the bike to remain stable when parked fully loaded in wind gusts of that speed a week or two ago. I parked with the stand on the leeward (left) side of the bike so a broken Click-stand or blow-over wouldn't endanger the derailleur hanger. I respect and can relate to your concerns, Frank, and don't deny or invalidate your experience. Just wondering...did you try the Click-stand with some considerable additional lean in windy conditions? Might it have been a bit too vertical for the conditions? Perhaps the wind was just too strong and gusty and the soil too soft, making the Click-stand impractical for the conditions. I can see the panniers acting as a bit of a sail in high winds or conversely, the unladen bike might be light enough to topple if too upright. Can you tell us a little more about what things were like when your bike fell? It might help others avoid the problem.
'Just hoping you can have a good Click-stand experience like mine, though I understand your concerns and would definitely choose to lay my bike down in the 70mph ice-pellet winds I experienced camping in my last desert tour. Everyone is different and the same product may not give the same results, depending.
With regard to brake bands, yours are a good heavy-duty solution. I have had good luck so far with the originals provided I carefully placed the bungee in the pull and then squashed them fully shut so the interlocking edges of the pull were fully engaged. It is possible to catch a bit of bungee in between and it can be hard to see. Anyway, yours have solved the problem, so good. I used to use a small piece of tethered, machined aluminum as a block to wedge the brake lever open. Later, it was replaced with a plastic Blackburn Stop-Block that unfortunately won't engage my Tektro RL520 levers. On my rando bike, I have a quick-release on the cantilever brake straddle cable that works normally and one on the headset cable stop that works in reverse, to operate as a parking brake. It baffles anyone who tries to wheel the bike away, as everything appears normal except the front wheel is locked. On the tandem, I lock the Arai drum brake using a bar-con lever and that does a dandy job of keeping the bike in place.
Best wishes,
Dan.
