There's some conditions that affect successful use in the field...
1) The sealant used in tubeless tires doesn't last as long/work as well in extreme heat -- at least based on the conversions I've done for friends. This is why I have held off on converting my Nomad's rims for my desert tours. Temperatures on the dry lake beds can reach 51°C/124°F ambient, 60°C/140°F at the surface and this tends to dry the sealant out (it can even loosen vulcanized tube patches). If you're a Formula One racing fan as I am, notice the air vs track temperatures posted on the TV screen next time you watch. The differential can be surprisingly high, and tires are right down there on the surface, so they are affected most. This might be a factor if you choose to tour Australia in the heat of summer.
2) When mounting tubeless tires, it is helpful to have an inflation system that can deliver a high-pressure "puff" of air to fully seat the bead. There are "charger" floor pumps that do this, a few hand pumps, and of course co2 cartridges. You can also get 'round all that with a few tricks. One closest to what I use is shown in a video at this link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tE3h4nmDdOo Of course, a valve with a removable core is required, but this is pretty much standard procedure when going tubeless.
3) It is still helpful to carry a spare tube or two in the event you develop a puncture and your sealant has dried up, particularly if you are dealing with a big hole. Getting back on the road again quickly is then a matter of removing the tubeless valve and substituting the tube with its attached valve. Remounting the tire can be a little more difficult because you have the tube volume in there as well, but not too bad. You can then remove the tube and refit the tubeless valve after refilling with fresh sealant at your convenience. Of course, carrying a plug is also a convenient way to fix a hole that is too large for the sealant alone to close.
Best,
Dan.
