Dan, sorry didn't read all the messages before I asked you about proofing intervals.
No worries!
I would caution against overuse of Proofide...it can result in a too-soft saddle. For people who prefer a softer saddle, repeated and heavy applications of Proofide can hasten the break-in process, but it is easy to go too far. Some saddles offered by small shops with low turnover have sat in display cases for ages, sometimes in a window where they become sun-dried and acquire the flexibility of hardwood. These can benefit from a bit more Proofide. Far better, I've found, is to buy from a shop that sells in volume so you can be assured of a Brooks with some oils -- and flexibility -- remaining in the leather.
When I get a new saddle that is still flexible, I generally apply a light smear of Proofide across the underside (the rough part of the leather) and a light coating on top. I then leave it to sit overnight. Come morning, the saddle looks dull and slightly grey from the Proofide (which is now white but used to be red...still smells good to me). I then use a soft, clean cotton cloth to polish and buff off the excess Proofide and ride it. Once some little surface wrinkles begin to appear on the saddle under my sit-bones (ischial tuberosities), I give another light smear of Proofide to the top of the saddle only. That's pretty much it for another 1-2 years.
My scheme has worked well for me over a number of decades and Brooks saddles. Others will have their own pet schemes that work equally well for them. To each his or her own.
One note: I *always* use a waterproof saddle cover if it appears it will rain or if the bike is parked outside. Riding a wet saddle will quickly cause it to sag and lose shape. It is possible to remove the cover from the rails and reshape it, but this is more of an Advanced Operation best avoided.
Another note: Brooks saddles are handmade or natural materials. They are not all created equal. Some have ehm, "cosmetic variations" (i.e. are riveted crookedly on the rails or have nameplates that are askew). When I have found such to a disturbing degree, I usually ask for an exchange. Some of my saddles include hide scars from barb wire. These I take in stride. One thing I can't overlook are saddles made from hides I find too soft and stretchy. It happens. These I use and sell on quickly; many people prefer these examples which shape to one's profile very quickly; I do not because I find they tend to form a central ridge that is acutely uncomfortable to my perineal region . I much prefer the original domed shape or one that is only slightly indented. With my 45° back angle on brake hoods (less when riding the drops), I don't put much weight on the saddle, so a "good" one can easily accumulate about 10,000km before shaping deeply to me. A "bad" (too flexible in my view) example might do so in as little as 500km and is then sold on. As with saddle treatments, it is an individual thing. I've found fitting A Brooks saddle to a Thudbuster seatpost means a longer break-in time (good in my view) because the sharp jolts of a rigid seatpost are softened by suspension.
All the best,
Dan.
