Thank you for your kind words Dan. We were rightfully grateful to the very generous supporter and look forward to it going to its new owner who will appreciate this beautifully crafted bike.

Big thanks, Antonio

My dad had a set of those stamps...

...I do, too! As a hobbyist framebuilder, I have used them to mark my frames. It can be devilishly hard to get the numbers to register properly and fully on a rounded steel surface and the process does not take kindly to redos. I've had good luck stamping soft brass sheet stock, then silver-soldering that to the frame. I'd be happy to do so for cost of materials, but it goes beyond the usual 'blast-and-respray remit...and we're located a bit far apart!

Best, Dan.

‘I would avoid doing any work on the existing stamped number.’

Why?
It keeps the stamped number in the standard location.

From my limited experience of stamping numbers on other things it is very difficult to re-stamp an existing number as exact stamp alignment can be very hard to achieve - but careful engraving might be a way of re-establishing the serial number.


‘Another option would be if you know someone that has a set of those stamps, stamp the same number in another spot.’

Not sure that is a wise thing to do as people know where Thorn serial numbers are placed and having a number elsewhere really does make the bike look like it has been stolen!

I would avoid doing any work on the existing stamped number.  Another option would be if you know someone that has a set of those stamps, stamp the same number in another spot.  It would be best to stamp it were you can't damage anything, meaning not on a thin tube.  Perhaps a rear dropout? 

Decades ago I had a Raleigh with the number stamped on a dropout.  The number was highlighted in gold, someone in Nottingham with a very fine brush highlighted the number.

I have an Italian bike from the 1960s with the number stamped on a seatpost lug.  Example, attached.

My dad had a set of those stamps, decades ago I stamped my name on some of my tools. 

Long time no post here.
What the hell are those things? Antiques?? My 1990 Raleigh had those can'ti brakes also, were never straight and a pain to use.
Your front rim looks gouged and has like 20 miles left before it asplodes. LOL Your LBS said nothing??
Rim brakes on a tour bike?? My Rohloff had a POS rim caliper for too long. Useless for stopping, then the Dyad rim got gouged by frozen mud in China. I finally noticed and changed it last year after it was cracking and creaking for 300 miles. But still ZERO spoke holes had any cracks. Fantastic rims like NO other. Eyelets are totally STUPID.

SJS has LOVELY SA XL-FDD dyno DRUM brakes. My first one has 32,000 miles, now on it's 3rd bike. Rim shines as good as new. It did both my tours, 8,100 miles and the bike was 120 lbs. LOL. NO camping gear. Works 100% of the time, BETTER than an disc. It made the rear brake irrelevant till I finally got a DIY disc mount with cable TRP Spyre put on.
And yah, the lights have always been on for 14 years. Neither brake has ever squealed. 100% safe to slam to a stop from 40 mph, anytime.

Last week I was watching videos of guys rebuilding POS Shimano and Sanyo dyno hubs with loose grease bearings and rusted guts. Hilariously POOR design.