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General Technical / Re: Raven Tour face lift.
« Last post by mickeg on January 16, 2026, 12:41:39 AM »New cables on rebuild. If the outer housing on the shifter is not same length for both cables, it would be good if it was the same length. Meaning the outer housing lengths should match. You might want a third inner cable cut to the same length as the other cables to carry as a spare. Is the outer housing in good shape, or should that be replaced?
If that bike uses an internal shift cable instead of EX box, do you want that cable replaced too? That could involve some costly labor.
A maybe on brake pads? That could cost more in labor than the cost of pads.
If drop bars, any particular bar tape you would prefer? Color?
How good are the tires?
I think my Sherpa has a clear coat over the black. The clear coat is also over the decals so the decals do not get rubbed off. But the clear coat over the yellow paint on my Nomad Mk II flakes off, not sure if it was poorly prepped or what? Is that something you would like?
Do a good inspection of the frame after sandblasted to see if there is any rust damage on the insides of the tubes. I have occasionally seen on this forum photos of rust perforations on frame tubes.
My Nomad Mk II came with a piece of tape inside the headtube that covered the holes in the headtube to the top tube and downtube. That way any water that got inside the headtube did not run down into the downtube or top tube, instead ran out of the bottom of the head tube. A piece of tape is a really good idea there.
Make sure the serial number is visible and readable after the work is done.
I put a small drop of paint on my seatpost about a cm above the top of frame so I can easily see if my seatpost is in the right place or not. If you did that before the work, you could set it up proper when the bike is returned to you without trial and error.
If you are one of the people that makes sure that the inside of the frame is greased where the seatpost is installed, you might plan to do that yourself when the bike is returned.
Take a photo of the stack of spacers on the steerer tube above the headset so you can get it set up the same later, just in case they do not keep records of the stem height on the steerer tube before disassembly.
I like to use blue (removable) threadlocker on rack bolts and fender bolts. Most people don't do that. Do you have a preference?
If that bike uses an internal shift cable instead of EX box, do you want that cable replaced too? That could involve some costly labor.
A maybe on brake pads? That could cost more in labor than the cost of pads.
If drop bars, any particular bar tape you would prefer? Color?
How good are the tires?
I think my Sherpa has a clear coat over the black. The clear coat is also over the decals so the decals do not get rubbed off. But the clear coat over the yellow paint on my Nomad Mk II flakes off, not sure if it was poorly prepped or what? Is that something you would like?
Do a good inspection of the frame after sandblasted to see if there is any rust damage on the insides of the tubes. I have occasionally seen on this forum photos of rust perforations on frame tubes.
My Nomad Mk II came with a piece of tape inside the headtube that covered the holes in the headtube to the top tube and downtube. That way any water that got inside the headtube did not run down into the downtube or top tube, instead ran out of the bottom of the head tube. A piece of tape is a really good idea there.
Make sure the serial number is visible and readable after the work is done.
I put a small drop of paint on my seatpost about a cm above the top of frame so I can easily see if my seatpost is in the right place or not. If you did that before the work, you could set it up proper when the bike is returned to you without trial and error.
If you are one of the people that makes sure that the inside of the frame is greased where the seatpost is installed, you might plan to do that yourself when the bike is returned.
Take a photo of the stack of spacers on the steerer tube above the headset so you can get it set up the same later, just in case they do not keep records of the stem height on the steerer tube before disassembly.
I like to use blue (removable) threadlocker on rack bolts and fender bolts. Most people don't do that. Do you have a preference?

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