If you are getting bored, perhaps some old issues of this magazine will help.
https://www.bicycletraveler.bicyclingaroundtheworld.nl

But not sure if that is formatted for a phone, not sure what your electronics are.

Thanks so much Paul and everyone for your good wishes, I appreciate them very much.

I'm making remarkable progress, sitting comfortably in a chair and doing laps of the hallway, but I tire easily and sleep a lot. My doctors are excellent and have decided the scheduled release to the hospital guest house today is too early, so they have sensibly delayed it till tomorrow afternoon, once my drains have been removed.

My spirits are good, I'm optimistic, and view this like any bike tour, with obstacles to overcome as I ride toward my destination. This "tour" (recovery) will take awhile, but meantime, I'm enjoying the Forum posts and seeing the usual eagerness to help each other that makes this a very special place and resource. Well done!

All the best, Dan.

I'm going to suggest you do it yourself and not trust it to a mechanic.  it's a job that pays dividends if you take the time and the one thing a shop mechanic isn't going to do us spend very long on it, that's not because they're not capable, but they know no one is going to accept being billed three hours workshop time to fit guards!
The way Thorn fit guards is not a lot different now to what it was when I bought a Raven in 2004.  If you go to the current nomad 650B  pdf's on the Thorn website, there's some clear photos you can zoom in on.  Maybe on other brochures as well, I haven't looked.
There's the option on the rear guard to fit to rack or dropout, if you choose the dropout there's no bending of stays required, both of mine are attached at the dropout.  You've probably already got this from Thorn, but anyway... The major differences between the way Thorn do it and the Bluemels instructions are:
Direct fitting so you have to drill out the original front bracket and not use the one at the rear.  A bit of tape or sticker will cover any unused holes.
Use spacers to drop the mudguard both front and back, any bit of tube will do, or start with some oversized nuts and washers till you've got the position right.
Thorn don't pass the stay through the mudguard fitting. the angle is wrong, so the spoke needs to by cut precisely where it exits the bolt.   This is a really tidy way of doing it, it leaves nothing protruding to catch and it doesn't need the rubber protection caps that often fail. BUT - it's a one shot cut, you are not leaving any adjustment if you want to extend the guard at a later date, either for more clearance or bigger tyres.  (Replacement stays are available, but they're half the price of new guards)

I put a whole afternoon aside to fit guards.  The way to achieve longevity is for no part to be under stress.  Once I'm happy with the fitting, I'll remove each  screw, one at a time, and the guard should stay in position.  If the guard moves with one screw out, give the stays a gentle squeeze in that direction.  Then add a bit of Loctite when you put the screw back. 
it is a bit of a faff, and yes I could do it in a quarter of the time, but I do it this way and barring accidents, that's it for life (Or as long as I've ever kept a bike anyway)
I also add rubber washers between all the frame attachment points, I'm not sure it's necessary, but it doesn't do any harm and avoids the possibility of scratching paint.
Take your time and it'll be fine, let us know how you get on.

There was a dished penny washer inside the mudguard to spread the load, and personally I would make the hole through the mudguard with a soldering iron rather than drill it and risk cracks.

Good point, I also like to melt the hole rather than drill it, I don't have a soldering iron, so heat up a long bolt.  If not re-using the rivet hole, it's important to get the new one central, or the guard will be forever at a squint.


TO ADD  - The theory of fitting the guards half way up the forks is that they don't then need the safety clips.  If you get something caught under the front guard, as it rotates around that axis the gap opens up.  This isn't the case fitting to the dropout, where the release clips are very much required.

When I owned the bike before you it came with a set of tatty and cracked Bluemels, but they were quite narrow and were sized for the 35mm tyres it then had.
As Mickeg has said, you have to mount the front mudguard with an M5 bolt vertically upwards into the bridge of the fork with a spacer to get the correct tyre clearance.  A short piece of 6mm fuel line will do the job.  There was a dished penny washer inside the mudguard to spread the load, and personally I would make the hole through the mudguard with a soldering iron rather than drill it and risk cracks.
The same system was used to mount the rear mudguard to each bridge.
I think I fitted plastic screws to close the M5 holes as I did not use mudguards.
Hope this helps!



 

I was unhappy with the mudguards I fitted to my Nomad over a decade ago, a few months ago fitted the Blumel mudguards (I am in USA, so I call them fenders).

The fender mount on Thorns at the fork crown is facing towards the tire, not the hole through the fork crown that is oriented fore and aft.

Photos attached.

I think I had a metal bracket on the front that is riveted to the fender, many fenders come with a bracket that is intended to fit to a hole through the fork crown.  I removed it by drilling out the rivets.  The rivets get hot from drilling, hot rivets can melt plastic, do it slow so you don't melt anything.  If I recall correctly, there were two rivet holes, one I covered with black electrical tape, used the other to attach the fender to the fork crown.  I put a spacer between the fender and fork crown so that the fender does not rub on the crown and does not get deformed to the shape of the crown.  Instead the fender only touches that spacer. Use as thin a spacer as practical to get the greatest fender clearance between the tire tread and fender.  Or, if you only use narrow tires, perhaps you might want less clearance, in which case a longer spacer may be appropriate.  If you do not have anything to make a spacer, several washers stacked can serve that purpose.  I think there are two threaded holes facing the tire, I only used one.

Metal stays, I bent them just in front of the brackets on the fender to the correct angle.  I cut the lower front stays to a shorter length so my feet do not hit them.  I do not think I cut the upper, but I might have.

I did not use the plastic covers over the ends of the stays that came with the kit, instead I used some other caps that are red.

I assume my fenders look like yours, but I bought mine several years ago and finally installed them this year.  Thus my parts might be slightly different from yours.  The fenders I installed are 65mm wide, that model (26 inch wheel, 65mm wide fender) is no longer made.

I put the fenders on my Sherpa a decade and a half ago, I think it is the same as I described above, but I have not ridden my Sherpa for eight years, it is in storage and would not be convenient for me to look at it at this time.

Thorn often fits the fender stays to racks, not the fork and rear dropout.  But I always fit my fenders to the fork stays and dropouts because I might switch to different racks or remove them altogether.  Do whichever you prefer.

When I cut the stays, I used a hack saw, and filed the end to get rid of any sharp edges.