Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Member's Gallery => Topic started by: martinf on December 06, 2012, 03:41:51 pm
-
My new Thorn arrived a couple of weeks ago but I have only just finished getting it ready, first ride probably tomorrow.
It's one of the old stock Raven Tour frames, 587S. Not taped the bars yet, as I want to experiment with different bar tilts, move the brake levers and try different stem heights and extensions.
-
My! That's a breathtakingly beautiful build, Martin. I am so glad it has arrived, and can't wait for the first of what I'm sure will be many ride reports and (hopefully!) more photos. You even fitted a Hebie Chainglider -- magnificent!
I want to experiment with different bar tilts, move the brake levers and try different stem heights and extensions.
That's what did the trick for me, Martin. See: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4523.msg28317#msg28317 Thanks for sharing; can't wait to see more of this gorgeous bike.
Best,
Dan.
-
Looks fantastic - lOOKING FORWARD TO THE RIDE REPORTS
Andy
-
Good stuff martin best of luck with the new baby she looks gorgeous ;)
cheers
jags.
-
I spy...with my little eye...lots of details!
• What appears to be a B&M IQ Cyo-series headlight
• A mysterious little rectangle just below it...? A reflector, perhaps, like this one? http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/schmidt-white-reflex-reflector-for-edelux-prod23917/ If so, then this might be the 60lux version of the Cyo?
• An extended front mudguard very nicely done and bolted in place for replacement or modification if necessary)
• F/R extended mudflaps on the 'guards
• 'Cross-top/interrupter brake levers
• Oh! You're a clips 'n' straps man, like me! Feetbelts.
• A Hubbub mount for the Rohloff shifter.
• Just spotted the snap-on SKS/Scotchlite spoke reflectors
...and lots more. Give, Martin, before I go blind looking for more! :D
All the best,
Dan.
-
Nice looking bike
Will you be carrying a front bar bag?
If so, where / how?
-
yeah just had another sneaky look ::)
trying to figure out how the wiring is done for front and rear lights very neat job.
being a bit critical now :)
need to level that brooks saddle,
dropkick that front reflector over the nearist ditch ,
i really hate the thorn seat post sorry lads but it does look cheap and completly the wrong colour for any thorn bike.nice carbon setpost ;)
other than that class act.
jags
-
Dan picked up most of the non-standard mods and accessories. Those that haven't been mentioned:
- the cranks are 150 mm.
- extra long bottle cage on the seat tube, I added a neoprene ring to make the top catch on this more secure.
- little engraved name/address plate on the lower bolt of the down tube bottle cage. This used to be mandatory in France, not sure if it still is but I fit one anyway.
- cadence sensor for the bike computer (hidden by the pedal).
- bracket for backup battery lamp on handlebar.
- latex inner tubes, but you can't see those!
Dan's solution for longer brake hoods is a shorter handlebar. I'm trying a shorter stem, so the front of the hoods should be in about the same position as my 1977 bike. The tops will be closer, but I don't believe that matters as I ride mostly on the hoods. I'll find out on my test rides.
With the narrow Surly stainless-steel chainring and 3/32" chain and sprocket, the chainglider seems slightly more free-running when first fitted than the one on my 5-speed, but not dramatically so. Thorn don't like chaingliders, but I reckon it is easy to take off if I do decide I don't like it. The Rohloff-specific one has a larger opening than standard at the hub side, so it won't damage the Rohloff hub shell like early versions were reported to do.
Matt2matt2002 wondered about a bar bag. I'm not fond of these, though I do sometimes fit one on my rackless 700C lightweight when the saddlebag isn't quite enough.
With a touring bike I try and keep everything in the 4 pannier bags, any overflow gets strapped on top of the rear rack. Stuff I need to take with me for short stops off the bike goes in a minimalist 15/20 litre rucksack I generally stow inside the top of the starboard rear pannier. The rucksack is also useful for walking round town or shopping after parking the bike on trips when I don't camp and stay in hotels/hostels.
As my home-made panniers are too old and scruffy for a nice new bike, and the front ones aren't designed for low rider, I also bought new Ortleib Bikepacker and Sportpacker bags, 40 litre and 30 litre capacity respectively. I won't be trying these on the first few rides.
Jags wondered how the wiring is done - its just coaxial cable run along the frame and mudguard stays, held on with zip ties. Not too untidy looking as black cable, black zip ties and black paint.
>being a bit critical now :)
>need to level that brooks saddle,
My photo makes it look worse than it is, it is very slightly off level, but the nearest I can get with the Thorn seat post.
>dropkick that front reflector over the nearist ditch.
Can't do that, front reflectors are mandatory here. A Cyo 40 with integrated reflector looks neater (I have this on my 5-speed commuter), but for the Thorn I prefer the Cyo 60, as the bike will probably get some nocturnal use on rural roads.
>i really hate the thorn seat post sorry lads but it does look cheap and completly the wrong colour for any
>thorn bike.nice carbon setpost ;)
Nothing a bit of black paint won't cure. The drawback for me is the rather coarse saddle tilt adjustment. If I need to set the saddle dead level I may swap it out later for a plain seatpost with Brompton Pentaclip to get finer tuning.
Other planned additions and changes:
- locking headset spacer so I can play around with different handlebar heights and stem lengths without adjusting the headset each time.
- maybe a frame-mounted parking lock. I've got these on my visitor bikes and they are very convenient. I reckon they give enough security for short stops in the areas I usually ride. There is plenty of room to fit one on the front of the seat stays.
- I'll shorten the right-hand end of the handlebar once I am sure I get along with the Hubbub-mounted shifter.
- I may eventually do the same mod as Dan with 2 P65 rear mudguards instead of the stock P55. (a cut-down rear mudguard should look neater than my bodged front extension). I reckon P65 will fit, they will give more clearance for mud and studded winter tyres. But not straight away - the Thorn is new and clean, so for snow, ice and mud I'll use one of my other bikes this winter.
- Not sure about the pedals. These GR9 platform pedals are Thorn's recommendation for toeclips/straps (which they don't like much). If I don't like the GR9s I'll fit a pair of Suntour Superbe quill pedals instead.
-
A serious bike, though Jags is right, a black seatpost would be an aesthetic improvement.
What is that kink on both side on the bottom of the handlebars, about four inches in?
Andre Jute
-
What is that kink on both side on the bottom of the handlebars, about four inches in?
A "feature" of anatomic-bend drop 'bars, Andre. Unfortunately, this was the source of a major quibble for me, as the kink was almost perfectly designed to compress one's ulnar nerve when riding the drops. This affected me, but doesn't seem to bother others, so it a YMMV sort of thing, I think.
Best,
Dan.
-
Martin!
Thanks so much for the detailed explanation of all your lovely bike's features. I'm enjoying it immensely and am very taken with your build. Well done! Some things in particular caught my eye...- the cranks are 150 mm.
Ah! I'm thinking you might be spinner like me? I remember you liked them in your post here: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4259.msg19687#msg19687- little engraved name/address plate on the lower bolt of the down tube bottle cage. This used to be mandatory in France, not sure if it still is but I fit one anyway.
This seems a very sensible addition, whether required or not, Any chance of a closeup showing it in detail, Martin?- latex inner tubes, but you can't see those!
Whew! I thought my eyes were failing!
Dan's solution for longer brake hoods is a shorter handlebar. I'm trying a shorter stem, so the front of the hoods should be in about the same position as my 1977 bike. The tops will be closer, but I don't believe that matters as I ride mostly on the hoods. I'll find out on my test rides.
I'll be most interested to see how this works for you, Martin. We all take slightly different paths to common ends, so I am particularly intrigued. Please let us know how all works over time. If you ever want to discuss such things in detail, please feel free to contact me off-list as well.The Rohloff-specific one has a larger opening than standard at the hub side, so it won't damage the Rohloff hub shell like early versions were reported to do.
I'm about ready to spring for one, but Surly don't (yet) make a stainless 'ring in 104BCD for my Hollowtech II crank. I keep asking them, and hope I will hear "yes" very soon.Jags wondered how the wiring is done - its just coaxial cable run along the frame and mudguard stays, held on with zip ties. Not too untidy looking as black cable, black zip ties and black paint.
Looks especially nice 'cos it really *isn't* noticeable. Well done!>being a bit critical now
>need to level that brooks saddle,
My photo makes it look worse than it is, it is very slightly off level, but the nearest I can get with the Thorn seat post.
There is a little trick here, Martin. The clamp on many of these seatposts can be removed and then reversed. The effect is to sometimes split the difference on saddle adjustments. I'm not sure it will work on yours, but could be worth a try if you find yourself curious some Saturday morning.
>dropkick that front reflector over the nearist ditch.
Can't do that, front reflectors are mandatory here. A Cyo 40 with integrated reflector looks neater (I have this on my 5-speed commuter), but for the Thorn I prefer the Cyo 60, as the bike will probably get some nocturnal use on rural roads.
Not bad-looking and for a purpose, Martin. Very nicely integrated, methinks.
Other planned additions and changes:
- locking headset spacer so I can play around with different handlebar heights and stem lengths without adjusting the headset each time.
Perhaps a lower T-bar for occasional HB bag mounting? It would serve the same purpose and actually weighs very little.
- maybe a frame-mounted parking lock. I've got these on my visitor bikes and they are very convenient. I reckon they give enough security for short stops in the areas I usually ride. There is plenty of room to fit one on the front of the seat stays.
I can endorse these highly, Martin. Love, love, love mine.
- I'll shorten the right-hand end of the handlebar once I am sure I get along with the Hubbub-mounted shifter.
Seems sensible to wait for now.
- I may eventually do the same mod as Dan with 2 P65 rear mudguards instead of the stock P55. (a cut-down rear mudguard should look neater than my bodged front extension). I reckon P65 will fit, they will give more clearance for mud and studded winter tyres. But not straight away - the Thorn is new and clean, so for snow, ice and mud I'll use one of my other bikes this winter.
Though it looks very strange at first, the appearance is growing on mine, and I just couldn't believe how much cleaner it kept me and the bike in the rain yesterday. Except for what fell from the sky, the bike and myself were clean as could be on return. What a (positive) difference! Mine is staying put for the foreseeable future. <nods> I don't see any problem doing the same with a P65, Martin. If you would like any measurements for the amount I trimmed and where I placed the stay bridge, just ask.
- Not sure about the pedals. These GR9 platform pedals are Thorn's recommendation for toeclips/straps (which they don't like much). If I don't like the GR9s I'll fit a pair of Suntour Superbe quill pedals instead.
The Superbe Pro quills are my all-time favorite, Martin. The only thing to keep in mind is they have a non-standard cage spacing from the spindle center. Not a problem if you use them exclusively (I have them on all my bikes), but you will likely need either two pair of shoes or will need to adjust your cleats if you switch between the Superbes and another brand of quill pedal.
All the best,
Dan.
-
This seems a very sensible addition, whether required or not, Any chance of a closeup showing it in detail, Martin?
Mine is a few years old, but they are still available:
http://www.sermi2.fr/sermi-2-plaque-velo-p-502.html (http://www.sermi2.fr/sermi-2-plaque-velo-p-502.html)
There is a little trick here, Martin. The clamp on many of these seatposts can be removed and then reversed. The effect is to sometimes split the difference on saddle adjustments. I'm not sure it will work on yours, but could be worth a try if you find yourself curious some Saturday morning.
Thanks for the tip. Looks reversible on the Thorn post. Though I may go the plain seatpin/Bompton Pentaclip route for infinite adjustment. Done that on another bike so that:
(1) I could fit a steel seatpin. I reckon steel is safer for a cargo trailer hitch, especially as I sometimes pull heavy loads.
(2) I wanted the saddle much further forward than usual to get a compromise on handlebar reach with a long top-tube frame.
The Superbe Pro quills are my all-time favorite, Martin. The only thing to keep in mind is they have a non-standard cage spacing from the spindle center. Not a problem if you use them exclusively (I have them on all my bikes), but you will likely need either two pair of shoes or will need to adjust your cleats if you switch between the Superbes and another brand of quill pedal.
Not a problem for me as I don't use cleats. But the GR9s are rather narrow - if they don't work for me they'll probably go on one of my wife's bikes, she has much smaller feet.
-
First test ride impressions:
- The RL740 top-mount levers feel more solid than the lighter RL720s on my old touring bike.
- With clean new V-brakes, clean CSS rims and pads, braking from the hoods or the tops is noticeably more powerful than with my other bikes (these mostly have cantilevers).
- The front brake squeals horribly (I startled a pedestrian on the tow path). Thorn says this is normal with new CSS rims.
- I didn't notice any noice or vibration from the Chainglider at all when riding. There is a SRAM PC890 chain inside, running on the original factory lube.
- My Rohloff is quiet in gears 8 to 14. In gears 1 to 7 there is some noise and I can feel some vibration, but all gears seem to work efficiently. Gear 1 on my S5/2 Sturmey 5 speeds always feels a bit "rough", but this hasn't stopped me from riding about 84,000 kms with this type of gear hub.
At 17", my gear 1 is by a small margin the lowest gear I have ever had on a bicycle. Gear 14 at 89" feels a bit higher than I need on a touring bike. Gear 11 at 61" corresponds to 27 kph at 90 rpm so also a trifle high for my "most-used" gear. So when the current 16T sprocket wears out I'll probably go for an illegal 17T to lower the range (about 6%). The Rohloff has smaller and more even gear steps than my Nexus 8 Premium, but I didn't really notice this on my test ride. It will probably be more important on long rides.
- The Hubbub-mounted gripshift works well for me - it feels natural to drop my hand off the brake hood and change down several gears at traffic lights. It feels a bit different from the Nexus 8 gripshift on my old bike, but its just as easy
- Didn't notice the GR9 pedals, so they will probably stay.
- I'm currently using a 40° 110 mm stem, giving a saddle nose/bar centre dimension of 480 mm. Saddle nose to front of brake hood is slightly longer than on my old tourer, and slightly shorter than on my 700C lightweight. As well as playing with different length stems, I can change this dimension by tilting the bars and moving the brake levers.
- Not yet felt the funny kink in the Thorn anatomic drop bars. I have relatively small hands for my size, so with luck I might avoid the problem Dan had with these bars
-
good stuff martin so all systems are a go any chance of some pic's ;)
-
So when the current 16T sprocket wears out I'll probably go for an illegal 17T to lower the range (about 6%). The Rohloff has smaller and more even gear steps than my Nexus 8 Premium, but I didn't really notice this on my test ride. It will probably be more important on long rides.
Could be a fair while... It's a rather durable component, and it's double sided, too. -- Andre Jute
-
I must agree on the gearing being a bit high for gear 11 to be your standard cruising gear. I have 38/16 gearing on my tour and in 11th gear I am sitting at about 33kmh which I wuld love to say is my avrage cruising speed but alas not. However I have not really noticed and difference in noise or efficiency for the gears 10-8 so I dont find it that much of an issue trying to get gear 11 to b the "go to" gear
Any
-
Gear 11 at 1:1 is (almost) by definition the most efficient gear. But the difference is too marginal to obsess about. Better, I think, to take Martin's view that what works for your riding style and geographic circumstances is the most desirable setup. Common sense, really.
Andre Jute
-
That's lovely, the chainglider and black front dynohub (SON?) really finish it too visually :)
-
Not had much opportunity for other than short local rides on the Raven Tour recently, but I managed to find time today for a 50 km loop with lightly loaded front panniers. Some more ride impressions:
- The front brake has either stopped squealing, or maybe I have just stopped noticing.
- I still don't notice the Chainglider on the Thorn at all when riding. I rode the less than ideal Chainglider setup on my 5-speed the other day, on this I can still hear the odd noise when I remember to listen out for it, otherwise I just forget it is there.
- Gears 1 to 7 are still a little noisy, but gear 5 already seems to be getting quieter. I managed to provoke the short change into gear 14 when changing from 8 to 7 without easing off, but this was on purpose. Most of the time I pause, as I am used to the old Sturmey Archer hubs, pausing doesn't seem to be necessary for most of the Rohloff changes.
- The gear numbers on the twist grip seem to have drifted a bit with respect to the Raven pointer, maybe the cables have stretched a little. I don't think that matters, as with the Rohloff it doesn't seem all that important to know which gear I am in - I just twist clockwise for a higher gear and anti-clockwise for lower. I sometimes twist the wrong way, because the Nexus 8 twist grip works the other way round.
- The initial position when riding on the hoods seems about right. I will try tweaking it a bit to see if small changes make any improvement.
- I have done a bit more riding on the drops. With the Thorn anatomic drop bars, my hands seem to move away from the brakes and rest on that funny kink - not a good thing. And using the bar-end twist grip from the drops doesn't feel as convenient as from the hoods. I haven't yet taped the bars on the Raven Tour, so it will be relatively easy to change the handlebars if I decide I don't like the Thorn anatomic. I've still got the more normal drops and bar-end twistgrip on my Nexus 8 bike, so I will try and do some comparison rides.
- I've never used a low-rider rack before. I noticed that the handles on the Sportpacker bags could touch the spokes, so tucked them between the bars of the rack. And the tops of the bags got a bit muddy with spray off the tyre (doesn't happen with a platform rack). Finally, the mounting hooks on the panniers got slightly gummed up with grit, which hindered the automatic opening/closing feature.
- Haven't yet done anything about the slightly off-level saddle. Although this is a new B17, I haven't notice any discomfort, but no long rides yet.
- I didn't check the tyre pressures (latex tubes loose air more quickly than butyl), so today's ride was with about 30 psi in the front and 35 in the rear (Dureme 1.9"). Bike felt nice and comfortable, no sluggish feeling, but I think I will try higher pressures on the next ride and see how it affects the feel. I generally use 40/45 with the 1.9" Supremes on the Nexus bike.
-
Martin!
What a cracking-good progress report from you; glad to hear things are going in the right direction! Your observations square with mine as well. If it helps, I can add a few data points of my own in response/triangulation...
• I'm positively lusting after a Hebie Chainglider now, and am very much hoping a model for 36T 'rings will soon arrive now Rohloff warranty-approved lower gearing is available. I am doing what I can to hurry the process.
• My own Rohloff is rapidly becoming quieter in the same way and at the same points as yours. Like yours, it is a recent model and these seem to achieve "break-in" status earlier than previous editions. Yay!
• My twist-grip indication is approximate as well and became moreso; agreed it really doesn't matter in actual use except when hitting the stops. The numbers read over a "half-gear" off-center compared to the Raven indicator.
• <nods> Yes, it was the little kink atop the drops that in part moved me to another 'bar; the change has had stellar results and I am very pleased with the refinement. I find I also really prefer a shallower, more parallel drop; it provides a more usable/used position for me than the deeper "opening hook" of the Thorn-fitted Zoom anatomics. Your position on the hoods sound encouraging for getting things spot-on for you.
• The dirty front panniers/gritted mounting hooks are part-and parcel of using lowrider racks in the rain in my experience. I have found a major source is blowback from a short-ending front mudguard. I've eliminated most of mine by fitting the extended front 'guard to mine (a repurposed rear 'guard, trimmed slightly at the end and recapped and a long mudflap added to the rear to keep feet and drivetrain clean/dry). The bags, bike, and I stay lots cleaner as a result. Downside? It looks odd and starts conversations...sometimes not in the best of ways. And yes, tucking the Ortileb SportPacker handles between the rack "rails" is the key to keeping them from flapping into the spokes. It soon becomes second nature, else one hears "twip!-twip!-twip!" as the spokes brush by.
• Your tire pressures are spot-on to the psi with what I am now finding works nicely for general unladen use with my 2.0 Duremes. I'll be closely following any developments and refinements here, Martin. I will go higher, of course, when a touring load is added.
Again, what a useful and informative progress and development report! Thanks, very.
Best,
Dan.
-
I'm sure you chaps know this already, but these fora are read by many prospective and new Rohloff owners. Rohloff gear change indicators are supposed to be "loose" by at least 2mm each way. If they're precise, some obsessive has set up the cables too tight, and the gear change will suffer, and probably also the longevity of the gear cables.
Interesting how fast the Rohloff now breaks in...
Andre Jute
-
I'm positively lusting after a Hebie Chainglider now.
Although my experience so far has been very positive, I'll remain a wee bit sceptical until I've put a few thousand kms on my 2 Chainglider equipped bikes. And I haven't yet done any really long rides with a Chainglider.
I have found a major source is blowback from a short-ending front mudguard. I've eliminated most of mine by fitting the extended front 'guard to mine (a repurposed rear 'guard, trimmed slightly at the end and recapped).
My bodge job of a long "mudflap" on the front of the front mudguard seems to be working reasonably well - no muck on the front light. But it doesn't extend as far as your system, so I expect I well end up copying that. Maybe after the present mudguard breaks.
-
Just copied Dan (Danneaux) for my Raven Tour front mudguard. I got a set of P55 mudguards from my local shop, who now do a lot of things (B&M lights, Schwalbe tyres, etc.) cheaper than I can get from the Internet.
Being lazier than Dan, I kept the lowest bridge on the new (ex-rear) mudguard in the same position as the original, which means that the rear part of the mudguard is closer to the ground. I therefore moved the mudflap I had fitted to the old mudguard up a bit.
The highest bridge on the new mudguard is slightly closer to the fork, but I could use the old stays without any cutting.
I drilled out a bridge from the old mudguard, and fitted this to the front, more or less as explained by Dan. I used stainless steel hex bolts rather than rivets to fit this bridge, as I may want to relocate the front reflector or fit a lightweight front lamp to the mudguard at some stage.
I didn't cut the new mudguard at all, and ended up with just one unused hole, which was covered neatly by the rubbery plastic part that I had removed from the original front mudguard when I fitted my extended mudflap.
After a few rides I decided I really didn't like the Thorn anatomic drop bars, so have fitted some more normal 44 cm wide bars (BBB, from my local shop, I have the same ones on my Nexus 8 bike).
I fitted some Grab-on foam, and covered it with the tape supplied by SJS with the bike.
With the new job I started in January I probably won't have the opportunity to do any long tours for a while, so I will probably replace the Duremes with Supremes, and either sell the Duremes or store them for later use. I think Supremes are better for the mainly on-road use the bike currently gets.
-
A very, very nice-looking job, Martin; well done!
I've continued to be extremely pleased with mine, especially now the Fall rains have set in. I've found it continues to make a great difference in helping me remain dry, especially when the rain is really bucketing down. My front panniers remain cleaner, as do my legs and even thighs, since I am not riding into my own spray. Water used to jet ahead at fork crown level...only to whip back and soak me. No more, thanks to the extended front 'guard, which extends the flow downward and at lower velocity.
I hope your experience will be as good -- it certainly looks like a stellar installation!
All the best,
Dan.
-
Interesting how such closefitting mudguards makes one expect that the whole bike when seen will be sporting.
-
Just field-tested the new front mudguard setup in the rain. It works well, most of the water from the front tyre is directed down and forward.
A little water dribbles down the extra mudguard stays, but looks as if it would miss the front bags, (I only had the rear bags fitted).
Front lamp and front rack stayed clean and relatively dry.
-
Martin, our Thorns are looking more like one another! ;D
I'm glad the new mudguard setup proved worthwhile in the rain for you, Martin; it has worked out very nicely for me in my own use.
Thanks for the report and update.
All the best,
Dan.
-
Despite not having used the Raven much in its first year, I did the recommended annual oil change last weekend. Cleaning oil came out dark grey. The top 7 gears now feel slightly smoother.
Zero issues with my two Chaingliders so far. I have opened the Chainglider on the Raven once this year to inspect the chain.
The Chainglider on my old 5-speed hub-geared bike (non-optimal setup with thick TA ring, 1/8" width chain and 1/8" Sturmey Archer sprocket) has also performed faultlessly. The initial rubbing noise has faded - I suppose the Chainglider has worn a bit to fit the other components better.
-
Thanks for the report, Martin.
-
First "tour" with my Raven Tour.
A mixed cycling and hiking holiday with my wife, close to home, just a 45 km ride to the ferry, then a week on staying on an island off the South Brittany coast. We did 20-35 km cycle rides most mornings and 2-4 hour hikes in the afternoons. Not what I had in mind when I bought the bike, but it performed very well on the tracks and short, sharp hills.
To even out our cycling abilities a bit, I carried most of the gear on the Raven Tour. It seems a lot for a week, but it includes two pairs of hiking boots and a comfortable medium size rucksack.
Wife's bike is an old, fairly light 650B frame, updated with Brooks Pro S saddle, Nexus 8 Premium hub geared quite low, and "sit-up-and-beg" handlebars.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-khbpoqIbITw/VhoARUeD7uI/AAAAAAAAAbs/GXIZtSBWyVU/s800-Ic42/Raven_T.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V5u7wEM_iuQ/VhoA3uMwBjI/AAAAAAAAAcc/TsgCntWIxTg/s800-Ic42/MBK.JPG)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wBvYPQxg4MQ/VhoA3Z_4LmI/AAAAAAAAAcY/-SCDNZGVmHk/s800-Ic42/Kerel.JPG)
-
Wonderful, Martin!
Your RT looks the business, for sure, and your wife's is a lovely build as well. So glad you got to use the Thorn on this tour and it performed well. I'm reminded greatly of my Nomad -- same color and of course the same bags. Looks really good!
All the best,
Dan.
-
Amazing how organized and integrated luggage for two crammed onto one bike can appear in the hands of an experienced tourer. Nice work, Martin.
-
A few additions and modifications to my touring Thorn Raven Tour.
As I like them on my Raven Sport Tour I fitted 44 cm wide compact bars, with a longer stem to compensate. I added an ABUS frame lock, which I find very useful on my old utility bike. And I replaced the reliable Schwalbe inner tubes with Vittoria latex, in the past I have found latex tubes add a bit of comfort and reduce rolling resisitance slightly, at the expense of long-term durability and the requirement for frequent topping up of pressure.
Finally, I am experimenting with a B&M Cyclostar mirror. The best mounting position I have tried so far is bar-end (see photos). The mirror is very easy to see when riding on the hoods, acceptable when riding on the tops, but not in the right position (my head is lower) and blocked by my arms when riding on the hooks.
It doesn't interfere with any of my hand positions, but is easy to knock out of alignment when parking the bike.
And I have to park the bike on the right-hand side, which scuffs up the Rohloff shifter I have mounted on the right-hand bar end.
-
I see you started with the Hubbub adapter. I tried a few other shifter locations before I got smart and got the Hubbub. I am quite happy with that choice.
-
I see you started with the Hubbub adapter. I tried a few other shifter locations before I got smart and got the Hubbub. I am quite happy with that choice.
I had been using bar-end shifters since sometime in the late 70's/early 80's on my previous derailleur tourer. I still have them on my lightweight 700C bike, my only remaining bike with a derailleur system.
I tried the accessory bar mount when I built up my Raven Sport Tour, but after a while moved to Hubbub on that bike as well.