Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Rohloff Internal Hub Gears => Topic started by: Danneaux on May 19, 2018, 10:35:34 pm
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Hi All!
I've removed my Nomad's Rohloff cog periodically to try different cogs and carriers, take measurements for friends, and so on. My hands are sore from overuse and radial styloid tenosynovitis, so I try to find an "easier way" when I can. Early on, I wanted to make the changes without my bench vise and without the risk of oil loss, so several years ago I tumbled to a method that works so easily I thought I'd share it. Of course, afterwards ::) (never fails ;) ) I find someone else made a video showing the same method. ;D
This method makes sprocket changes so easy, it needs to be shared. The TLDR version: Just cross-match your chain whip and wrench handles and give a little squeeze.
The steps are easy:
1) Remove the wheel and lay it sprocket-side up.
2) If you're scratch-averse like me, wrap some electrical tape 'round the exposed right flange of the Rohloff hub, right next to the cog and up about 25mm "just in case" the cog-whip slips. Mine never has, but could.
3) Affix the Rohloff remover firmly with the quick-release..."firmly" meaning no play, but not knuckle-busting tight.
3) Wrap the chain whip 'round the cog, leading with the fixed end of the whip, the free end of the chain going 'round clockwise -- the cog unscrews to the left, counter-clockwise.
4) Affix a 12in or similar adjustable wrench on the removal tool, overlapping the end of the chain whip in an "X" configuration.
5) Now, just squeeze the two handles together. The cog will make a "CLICK!" sound and will be free with almost no effort to speak of, just as shown at the 1min 37sec mark of wowbagger1954's YouTube video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XD2K1lrES4E
I really torque my sprocket on going uphill with expedition loads and it still takes very little effort to break it loose this way. Very little arm or hand strength are needed. Because the sprocket side of the hub is up, there is no oil loss.
When you go to replace the sprocket, be sure to check the mating hub face for any grit or debris and wipe it clean, then apply a thin skim of anti-seize or grease to the six-start threads, turn the sprocket counter-clockwise till you hear the "click" of proper thread engagement, then tighten the sprocket till it is just firm. The pressure of pedaling will tighten it home after the wheel is back in the bike.
Best,
Dan.
[Yes, I know the wrench jaws are facing the "wrong" way, but the wrench wouldn't stay posed for the photo when it was positioned properly]
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That's the same YouTube video I used when I needed to remove my Rohloff cog. It's so much easier to do it this way compared to Rohloff's video for this.
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It's the method I've always used, a bit surprised it was never the recommended way. Only difference is I invested in the correct size spanner rather than use an adjustable.
All a bit redundant now we have splined sprockets, I haven't touched mine yet, though it looks simple enough.
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4) Affix a 12in or similar adjustable wrench on the sprocket, overlapping the end of the chain whip in an "X" configuration.
Shouldn't this read "Affix a 12in or similar adjustable wrench on the remover tool"?
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Yes. Corrected.
Best,
Dan.
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You can't beat a 20 inch adjustable wrench for something like that, takes very little effort. Having a really long chain whip helps too.
I had some really powerful tiny little magnets somewhere that I was not using for anything. And yesterday I was taking a cassette off a freehub wheel, the end of the chain from the chain whip kept falling off (I only have two hands) making it hard to hold the wrench and chain whip. I suddenly thought of those magnets. Grabbed one and stuck it on the end of the chain on the sprocket, that magnet held the chain to the sprocket without any problem. It does not have to be a strong magnetic bond, only strong enough to keep the loose end of the chain whip from falling off. Made taking the cassette off the freehub very simple. That magnet is now stuck to the chain whip so it is there next time I need to use it.
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The cross-squeeze is just the sort of labour-saving cleverness that I love. Thanks, all.
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I've just bought and received a second hand Rohloff. I have an existing unit and have removed the sprocket on this without issue using the method outlined within this post. However, I just can't get the sprocket off of the second hand unit. I'm using a long chain whip and sprocket so there should be plenty of leverage. I'm also applying more than enough force but the damn thing won't budge. The second hand unit is an old one (around 10 years) and I suspect that the sprocket has never been removed since new. It has also been in storage for a few years unused. What can I do to get the sprocket off?
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I've just bought and received a second hand Rohloff. I have an existing unit and have removed the sprocket on this without issue using the method outlined within this post. However, I just can't get the sprocket off of the second hand unit. I'm using a long chain whip and sprocket so there should be plenty of leverage. I'm also applying more than enough force but the damn thing won't budge. The second hand unit is an old one (around 10 years) and I suspect that the sprocket has never been removed since new. It has also been in storage for a few years unused. What can I do to get the sprocket off?
In extremis I have added long pipes over end of tools to add leverage, then enlisted a friend. Good luck!
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What can I do to get the sprocket off?
In my experience, sheer muscle won't do it as well as "shocking" the fitting with a quick, sharp effort. That momentary application of high torque seems to give the best results for me.
Let us know how you come out; hoping for the best for you.
Dan.
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Got it off but it took my brother and I squeezing together to get the job done. Splined carrier installed, all screws and fittings regreased. I was told that the unit was hardly used and to be honest it looks like that's true even though I believe it's around 10 years old - the twist shift, although old style, isn't worn. The funny thing is that it has a disk rotor already fitted. Don't know if that opttion was always available on the Rohloff or it was added post purchase at a later stage. Anybody know when the disk brake Rohloffs were first introduced? The serial number of the unit is 079179 and it's the same model as the one in the linked sprocket change video - orange coloured word on the hub.
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Got it off...
Yay! Congratulations.
Best,
Dan.
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Sounds like 2007.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rohloff
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Thanks Mickeg for that link. Anybody have an inclination as to how much an 11 year old, low usage, Rohloff should sell for? I think I probably paid too much for the unit but, hey ho, as long as it works, I'm okay with that.
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Thanks Mickeg for that link. Anybody have an inclination as to how much an 11 year old, low usage, Rohloff should sell for? I think I probably paid too much for the unit but, hey ho, as long as it works, I'm okay with that.
I don't think I've seen one sell for less than £450, that was eBay Germany in a well worn 26" wheel and didn't look like it's been well cared for.
If you know it hasn't had much use, I'd have thought it worth not much less than the original cost, if it was still on its first sprocket I'd consider it just run in.
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Thanks PH. I don't feel as 'ripped off' now as I originally did after your advice. I'm sure it's going to give me many years of service before it dies on me.
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On value, I suspect that the most important thing is that water has not gotten into the hub where it could cause corrosion. If it was not used much and was stored indoors, that likely is a plus.
On a previous thread, someone from SJS commented that the oil that is drained from a Rohloff can have an unpleasant smell if water has gotten into the hub. So, if you did an oil change and if the oil smelled bad, that would be a trouble sign.
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The oil didn't smell bad per say. It just had a very strong 'oily' smell if that makes sense. It is very doubtful that the unit has seen much use because of the condition of the sprocket and shifter - which are the originals. I just don't think that the oil has ever been changed since new or, if it has, it probably hasn't been done as frequently as it should. I'm building a wheel for it this Saturday and taking it out for a test ride on Sunday. It'll stay on my Nomad for a couple of months, which is used daily, until I get time to build up the Sherpa. Hopefully during that time, if there are any problems, they'll manifest but I'm sure everything will be fine.