Description from the original brochure... http://web.archive.org/web/20070305193447/http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/thornpdf/ThornRohloffeXpBroHiRes.pdfQuoteAfter many years’ prototyping, by Andy and Fiona, the definitive eXXp (E, double X, P) has finally arrived!
It has the same frame tubes as theRohloff eXp R but it uses differentstays, which are cranked to allow the
fitting of up to 2.4”knobbly tyres...Rohloff equipped 26 inch wheel - Expedition touring cycles with huge mud clearances, if desired!
The eXXp is designed for Adventure Touring holidays (long distances, with heavy loads over severe terrain).
The eXXp is suspension specific, i.e. it is designed for a suspension fork (Magura Odur) with 100mm travel.
It has the cable runs for an EX hub, reinforcing tubular gussets at the back, 6mm carrier bosses and, whilst at present there are no discs available (which we would recommend) for Adventure Touring, we have “future proofed” the frame by providing ISO disc mounts and carefully considering the potential for neat routing of a hydraulic line... we have also chosen to fit V brake bosses with removable studs, should a disc be used instead.
An additional, extra-long, rigid, twin plate crown fork (to compensate for the suspension specific geometry) can be supplied to allow the eXXp to be suitable for economical day to day use or for a really epic journey, when servicing suspension would be impractical. Compared to the Rohloff eXp, the eXXp has slightly longer chainstays, because with a suspension fork, most of the weight has to be carried on the back of the bike and bigger bags need longer chainstays to help keep the weight within the bike’s wheelbase.
The eXXp is both huge and ruggedly good looking... like a Clydesdale... our bikes (Andy and Fiona’s) are called “Bertha” and “Hector.” These magnificent beasts have just returned from a long holiday in Patagonia, where they performed faultlessly and both flattered and cosseted their owners, by covering the extremely demanding terrain in impeccable style, whilst carrying full camping kit
and up to 10 days shopping!
The eXXp is, as you might expect, the most expensive of our solo bikes. It is available in just 10 sizes... we can’t do “small” with suspension forks!
Best,
Dan.
.
Just thinking about derailleurs in my life again starts to bring on a headache…
Does the Audax Mk III not do the business? Graham Smith in Oz reckons it's the best bike he's ever had, & uses it for light touring as well as commuting, brevets, and such.
Just thinking about derailleurs in my life again starts to bring on a headache, so they're not for me, but they evidently works for lots of others.
ah no form and functun doesn't come into it. the best and prettiest bike i've ever owned was a full carbon Look KX light ,Look cycles change there models every year they stay well ahead with the latest tech where as thorn is stuck in a feckin hole..
pretty up your bike's thorn ..
ah no form and functun doesn't come into it. the best and prettiest bike i've ever owned was a full carbon Look KX light ,Look cycles change there models every year they stay well ahead with the latest tech where as thorn is stuck in a feckin hole..
pretty up your bike's thorn ..
You miss the point entirely. A prettied-up full carbon Look KX light will be as useful as tits on a bull in this scenario.
(http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u666/petesig26/Weekend%20on%20the%20Grand%20Ridge%20Road%20No%202/P1030559_zps845f625c.jpg) (http://s1327.photobucket.com/user/petesig26/media/Weekend%20on%20the%20Grand%20Ridge%20Road%20No%202/P1030559_zps845f625c.jpg.html)
for me it isn't looks or bling, you can respray a thorn add as much bling as you want, it won't bring it up to date,
26 with disk brakes, choice of gearing hoff and mech full cable runs
for me it isn't looks or bling, you can respray a thorn add as much bling as you want, it won't bring it up to date,
26 with disk brakes, choice of gearing hoff and mech full cable runs
Thorn make plenty of derailleur bikes, plenty in 700C wheel-size, and even some that will run disc brakes. But carbon does not make a wise touring bike choice.
they also used to bang out great new bikes on a regular basis, so why not now? i could understand it if they still made all the bikes by hand but they don't and can out source to a reputable builder as they do now
they also used to bang out great new bikes on a regular basis, so why not now? i could understand it if they still made all the bikes by hand but they don't and can out source to a reputable builder as they do now
....if Thorn really want to rationalise their range swap out drop outs would be the way to go, no more EBB one frame for either gear system makes sense to me
Every time you adjust the chain tension, you have to reset your brakes, and maybe any mudguard being used.
I call that an inferior system to the EBB.
Lots of chat about the possibility of Rohloff hub failing. Does anyone factually know of any individual who has been stuck because of a 'catastrophic' failure?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,but I don't agree that the Rohloff is simply 'hype.'no i haven't heard of a complete failure, but that doesn't mean they won't or can't break,
http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Mechanical_Groupsets/chorus/road
feast your eyes on this lot .
ah yes this carbon gear should be banned ugly'ist gear ever made and deadly dangerous.
this campagnolo must be new stuff haven't a clue what.
An EBB has a known inevitable failure mode built in. That makes it an inferior system.
http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Mechanical_Groupsets/chorus/road
feast your eyes on this lot .
ah yes this carbon gear should be banned ugly'ist gear ever made and deadly dangerous.
this campagnolo must be new stuff haven't a clue what.
all that gubbins and techno wizardery just to turn a back wheel at a different ratio, seems the exact opposite of making a failsafe touring bike, K.I.S.S springs to mind
there frames are good but the groupsets are usually the lowest like sora .
if there going to be up there with the big boys then let them kit there bikes out with quality groupsets ban rohloff the devils own hub .
all that gubbins and techno wizardery just to turn a back wheel at a different ratio, seems the exact opposite of making a failsafe touring bike, K.I.S.S springs to mind
Now you're really just playing the Luddite ::) :P
An EBB has a known inevitable failure mode built in. That makes it an inferior system.
Failure mode ?? What is this failure that will ensue?
Lots of chat about the possibility of Rohloff hub failing. Does anyone factually know of any individual who has been stuck because of a 'catastrophic' failure? My hub developed an issue on a tour, slipping in a number of gears, (ironically in Germany and I was able to take it to an official service centre.) They couldn't sort the issue but contacted head office who offered to fix it and to courier it back to me within 3 days. Unfortunately I was short on time to catch a plane so took their advice which was "Ride it anyway, your hub will not completely fail.""No one has ever been stuck through a catastrophic failure."I rode the 800 miles to Budapest and sent the hub off for repair when I got home to Scotland. No warranty - no questions - no charge - great service.
Interestingly enough, when discussing the pros and cons the the Rohloff, loads of talk goes into "what if it fails?" or, "it's expensive but cost less over the life of the hub compared to replacing a derailleur system." No one seems to talk about how good it is to ride with. I'm not knocking derailleurs (having just ordered a shiny new Thorn one - one week and counting). Sure it's not infallible,but I don't agree that the Rohloff is simply 'hype.'
Lots of chat about the possibility of Rohloff hub failing. Does anyone factually know of any individual who has been stuck because of a 'catastrophic' failure? [snip for bandwidth]
Interestingly enough, when discussing the pros and cons the the Rohloff, loads of talk goes into "what if it fails?" or, "it's expensive but cost less over the life of the hub compared to replacing a derailleur system." No one seems to talk about how good it is to ride with. I'm not knocking derailleurs (having just ordered a shiny new Thorn one - one week and counting). Sure it's not infallible,but I don't agree that the Rohloff is simply 'hype.'
An EBB has a known inevitable failure mode built in. That makes it an inferior system.
Failure mode ?? What is this failure that will ensue?
but with an EBB you are shifting your bb so your pedals and riding position must be affected no? i know my bad knee noticed it on my old ebb scott when i tightend the chain
the dimples made in the soft ali of the EBB by the fixing screws will run together
I like the idea of the sliding dropouts more than the EBB, but they maybe have their own issues over time.They do; no system is perfect.
yip pretty trouble free this rohloff
ebb - hassle
hub -hassle when it brakes
chain- more hassle
brakes- more hassle.
more trouble than it's worth if u ask me.
In the end, it is six-of-one/half-dozen of the other. If a bike has neither eccentric nor sliding/ramped dropouts , then the alternative is a chain tensioner. If one has to go that route, one with a single tension pulley is probably best as it avoids putting the chain through a tight wear-inducing S-curve.
Best,
Dan.
In the end, it is six-of-one/half-dozen of the other. If a bike has neither eccentric nor sliding/ramped dropouts , then the alternative is a chain tensioner. If one has to go that route, one with a single tension pulley is probably best as it avoids putting the chain through a tight wear-inducing S-curve.
Best,
Dan.
Or, as I have on my 'Rohloffed' Sherpa, none of the above.
No EBB, no sliding dropouts, no chain tensioner.
Perfectly functional with judicious selection of chainring/sprocket combination,
In the end, it is six-of-one/half-dozen of the other. If a bike has neither eccentric nor sliding/ramped dropouts , then the alternative is a chain tensioner. If one has to go that route, one with a single tension pulley is probably best as it avoids putting the chain through a tight wear-inducing S-curve.
Best,
Dan.
Or, as I have on my 'Rohloffed' Sherpa, none of the above.
No EBB, no sliding dropouts, no chain tensioner.
Perfectly functional with judicious selection of chainring/sprocket combination,
so did you just find the suitable chainring/sprocket to make it fit your set up or did you have any choice in your gearing?
i'm not being a pain or flippant, i am interested
i got as far as xt 770 9 speed before i gave up on new gear
i see carbon, electric shifting, the hoff 10/11cassettes all as stupid modern fangled crap that is over priced over designed and just for the trend followers, it's here to stay but only because the makers of technocrap are making 9 speed obsolete in their never ending battle to part fools from their cash,
same reason for the push on plastic sorry carbon frames
disk brakes (avid bb7), ti and stainless frames i can get my head round as they offer a real benefit ie no rust or with the bb7 better braking than rim brakes and less wear to rims
i'm not a luddite i just use my head about my purchases, is it value for money , will it last, will it have a resale value when i'm done with it,
carbon frames would you buy a well used one? i wouldn't
In the end, it is six-of-one/half-dozen of the other. If a bike has neither eccentric nor sliding/ramped dropouts , then the alternative is a chain tensioner. If one has to go that route, one with a single tension pulley is probably best as it avoids putting the chain through a tight wear-inducing S-curve.
Best,
Dan.
Or, as I have on my 'Rohloffed' Sherpa, none of the above.
No EBB, no sliding dropouts, no chain tensioner.
Perfectly functional with judicious selection of chainring/sprocket combination,
so did you just find the suitable chainring/sprocket to make it fit your set up or did you have any choice in your gearing?
i'm not being a pain or flippant, i am interested
I used an online 'magic gear' calculator, specifically http://eehouse.org/fixin/fixmeup.php in order to work out which chainring/sprocket combinations would work with my 610s sized Sherpa which has 450mm length chainstays. I was using 38x16 but recently changed to 37x17. I only looked at options which gave nice low end gearing, the top end doesn't matter so much to me.
An EBB has a known inevitable failure mode built in. That makes it an inferior system.
Failure mode ?? What is this failure that will ensue?
A day will arrive when the dimples made in the soft ali of the EBB by the fixing screws will run together and the thing will turn in the BB shell without your assistance. If it happens in Outer Dirtyanddesolate, and you can't get the chain tight enough to pedal, you'll be pushing a long way through the desert. That counts as a catastrophic failure in anyone's book.
i got as far as xt 770 9 speed before i gave up on new gear
i see carbon, electric shifting, the hoff 10/11cassettes all as stupid modern fangled crap that is over priced over designed and just for the trend followers, it's here to stay but only because the makers of technocrap are making 9 speed obsolete in their never ending battle to part fools from their cash,
same reason for the push on plastic sorry carbon frames
disk brakes (avid bb7), ti and stainless frames i can get my head round as they offer a real benefit ie no rust or with the bb7 better braking than rim brakes and less wear to rims
i'm not a luddite i just use my head about my purchases, is it value for money , will it last, will it have a resale value when i'm done with it,
carbon frames would you buy a well used one? i wouldn't
Rolhoff was on the market looong before 9-speed, and before most disc brakes. It has an almost 20-year market presence.
Rolhoff was on the market looong before 9-speed, and before most disc brakes. It has an almost 20-year market presence.
and still 99.999999% of cyclists don't have a clue what they are, so much for market penetration eh? pretty sure iif they were the game changer you lot reckon, they might just be a little more widely known, still you'll never need spares or repairs so no matter
i'm not biased, i might be a hard sell though
i throw this stuff out in the vain hope you might be able to convince me i'm wrong, so far my xt/xtr is winning hands down
my drive train 48/36/22 11/34 can a rohloff even come close to that no,
could i do with even wider gearing you bet, i run out of gears daily both going up hills and down the other side,
i really struggle to see anything in the rohloff other than is alledged reliability
but keep up the topic maybe something will occur that will sway me
i'm not biased, i might be a hard sell though
i throw this stuff out in the vain hope you might be able to convince me i'm wrong, so far my xt/xtr is winning hands down
my drive train 48/36/22 11/34 can a rohloff even come close to that no,
could i do with even wider gearing you bet, i run out of gears daily both going up hills and down the other side,
i really struggle to see anything in the rohloff other than is alledged reliability
but keep up the topic maybe something will occur that will sway me
Good luck to you if the derailleur suits you. I really do not see the grounds for bagging the Rohloff to the extent you are, a gear system that works VERY well for many happy users. It does verge almost on the insulting at times with the tone you have chosen >:(
I'll wait for my reprimand from Dan if i have offended/blasphemedSo far, so good, but I'm watching both sides and will step in if things become personal rather than directed at the relative merits of each gearing system.
As for your perception that "No one seems to talk about how good it is to ride with", I honestly don't think that is true. I talk about how good the Rohloff is to ride with all the time, and so do many others here. It's just that people notice bad news (or in the absence of bad news the gossip of schadenfreude, like much of the ignorant nonsense we can see even here sometimes when people get stir crazy in the winter) much more than good news.
i best not have an opinion, but if they make it in carbon Jags will buy one ;)
good i hope it burns, not enough laughter if you ask mei best not have an opinion, but if they make it in carbon Jags will buy one ;)
Don't say things like that while I'm drinking. I laughed and the Coke almost came out of my nose. :)
- Dave
Does anyone here have experience with them? What are their pros and cons?
I hope I'm not taking this thread off topic...
This is the first I've heard of shaft drives for bikes. Does anyone here have experience with them? What are their pros and cons?
Shaft drive
An alternative drive system, replacing the chain and sprockets with right-angle bevel gears and a shaft running inside the right hand "chainstay."
Shaft drive was briefly popular around 1900, and occasional attempts are made to revive the design. Unfortunately, shaft drive turns out to have more problems than advantages.
A shaft drive requires heavier frame construction around the bevel gears to maintain their precise alignment under load. The drive system is heavier and less efficient than a good chain drive.
For reasons of clearance, the bevel gears of a shaft drive bicycle must be considerably smaller than the typical sprockets used with a chain drive. The smaller size of the gears causes an increase in the stresses on the whole support system for the shaft. This problem is exacerbated because the stresses from the shaft drive are not perpendicular the triangulated structure of a bicycle frame, and so are not well-resisted. .
Most of the advantages touted by proponents of shaft drive are only advantages compared with open-chain, derailer gear systems. Many proponents of shaft drive use specious (if not dishonest) arguments "comparing" shaft drive systems with derailer gear systems. Any such comparisons are meaningless, it's like comparing apples and locomotives.
A valid comparison of shaft vs. chain drives can only be made if both bikes use the same type of gearing, whether single-speed or with an internal gear system.
These same advantages can be obtained with chain drive using a fully-enclosing chain case, as with old English roadsters and many current Dutch bikes.
Shaft drive proponents also often compare sealed, enclosed shaft drive systems with open, exposed chain drive systems. This is also a misleading comparison. All of the advantages claimed for shaft drive can be realized by the use of a chain case.
i seen a fellas nose explode doing that trick not nice.i best not have an opinion, but if they make it in carbon Jags will buy one ;)
Don't say things like that while I'm drinking. I laughed and the Coke almost came out of my nose. :)
- Dave
shaft drive = Much less successful and accepted than the Rohloff
Much less successful and accepted than the Rohloff ;D
why fight it derailleurs are still very much better than hubs for a lot of usThat is the key point: "for a lot of us". Derailleurs will be around for a long time, since they work great and have been refined for decades. Those of us who love Rohloffs are not saying that Rohloffs are the best for everyone and every situation. But for certain situation, Rohloffs are superior to derailleurs.
not as complexTrue, but complexity must be weighed against the benefits that a more complex device provides. If simplicity was the overall goal of a bike, and we removed any component that contained any hint of complexity, we would end up with walking stick.
not as heavyTrue. However, the weight gain of the Rohloff is not as much as some people think, since you need to subtract the weight of the additional chainrings, the front and rear derailleurs, and the sprockets. Also, the weight is concentrated at the center of the wheel, so it has less effect on rotational momentum (acceleration). But yes, the Rohloff does add weight.
not as expensive,Your honour, my client pleads no contest, except perhaps insanity. Guilty as charged.
more effcientYes, but only slightly. I don't think you would notice the difference. The Rohloff website has a good article about efficiency:
greater gear rangeYes, this is true. When I switched from my 27-speed mountain bike to my Nomad, I gave up the top gear. My bottom gears are almost identical, and the top Rohloff gear is almost the same as the second-top gear on my derailluer. Since I ride a lot of hills, I gave up the top gear rather than the bottom gear. I would argue that while you do give up a bit of gear range, a 526% range is still sufficient for most cases.
easier to remove rear wheelI don't understand this point. In both cases, you undo the axle nut or quick-release and drop the wheel out. Are you referring to needing to reduce the chain tension before removing the wheel on a Rohloff? I've never needed to remove my wheel (so far -- it's only been 2-1/2 years), so I can't remember any additional steps.
sorry but i'm impressionable and the impression set here is a lot of expense and constant faffing, not of an ultra reliable worry free bit of kitYes, a lot of expense, but I haven't heard of "constant faffing". (What does "faffing" mean, anyway? Tinkering and adjusting?) Maybe you are referring to different ways of tensioning the chain. I love the Rohloff for the precise reason that I don't need to do adjust, clean, or fix it. I do a lot of riding in the rain, and my derailluer didn't last long with all the road grit in the gears. Also, I ride in city traffic, and have a Rohloff is almost like have a (semi-)automatic transmission. I'm always in the right gear, and changing gears is effortless and always precise.
ps i hope this post isn't going to provoke more argumentsMe too. Debates about the technical merits of a design are good and helpful, but name-calling and personal insults have no place here.
If simplicity was the overall goal of a bike, and we removed any component that contained any hint of complexity, we would end up with walking stick.Not quite a walking stick, but I have the luxury of an old road bike (1972 Windsor Professional/Cinelli lookalike I bought for the princely sum of USD$20 complete) and have Big Fun Plans™ for it when I can find the time.
CambioGear
Vyro Crankset
Simkinetics SIVAT CVT
Donthenko
Hycle (hydraulic)
Glyde (modified treadle) drive
Premthuruthi ratchet drive
Hanna-Dean Drive System
Slozeni RUNBIKE
Wechner Chainless treadle
Pendal hub-drive
Are you guys -- Bill and Anto -- for real?
Many of our customers say ... “I want an exciting lightweight cycle that I can go for a blast on in the summer evenings, that I can ride, lightly laden, over long distances briskly, and that I can also use for my annual touring holiday.” ... Well, this bike is for them! It will do all this and much, much more! If you want a good-mannered bike on which to cycle prodigious distances where ultimate comfort is more important than ultimate speed, then this is the perfect bike for the job. Don’t misunderstand, this is a very quick bike - one that encourages you to get out of the saddle and sprint up short climbs - but it is also very comfortable, especially over distance or over rough roads
Dan please get that spell check up and running<nods> Request has been in for awhile, along with some others. Hopefully soon.
shaft drive = Much less successful and accepted than the Rohloff
so follow that reasoning and ?
rear mech and chain? Much more successful and accepted than the Rohloff 8)
Ah to be honest hub geared bike's i just don't like they aint got soul ,there more like a town bike .where as the the old style racing bikes and todays more modern carbon lovelys have history ,
shaft drive = Much less successful and accepted than the Rohloff
so follow that reasoning and ?
rear mech and chain? Much more successful and accepted than the Rohloff 8)
I don't think that I have denied this at ANY point ::)
Mass-market sales and public acceptance does not equal functional utility. I have mainly been talking about the great utility of the Rohloff....... for my particular uses.
There's a number of drive schemes that have fallen by the wayside. Among them...
CambioGear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yweIWBC9-OA
Vyro Crankset: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toym0NTle5Q
Simkinetics SIVAT CVT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cd2-vsTzd9E
Donthenko: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk4xzoDCVo0
Hycle (hydraulic): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmHcUqaDVYs
Glyde (modified treadle) drive (made by a friend of mine): http://www.halebikes.com/index.html
Premthuruthi ratchet drive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARXJ4M1kPCI
Hanna-Dean Drive System: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDH_OcepG4s
Slozeni RUNBIKE: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1CWXoCBRxY
Wechner Chainless treadle: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5w6VK7bA5E
Pendal hub-drive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_FvFIca9-U
The variations are endless.
;D ;D hasen't improved much ;D ;DAh to be honest hub geared bike's i just don't like they aint got soul ,there more like a town bike .where as the the old style racing bikes and todays more modern carbon lovelys have history ,
Yeh.... hub gears. They ain't got no history :P
(http://www.oldbike.eu/museum/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/1903-hub-two-speed.jpg)
;D ;D hasen't improved much ;D ;D
If I remember correctly the "hire me" type city bikes outside my local station are shaft driven.sssshhh it will never go anywhere, stupid idea ;)
;D
All the best,
Dan. (...who can also do short posts)
If I remember correctly the "hire me" type city bikes outside my local station are shaft driven.
i bought a xTc classic and a xTc fillet brazed frame in the Thorn sell out, why because i knew they were never going to make as good a bikes again for my needs
Presumably Thorn know their market, sales figures, and customers better than the handful of us who frequent this forum.
yes and that's why made in taiwan , no name tubing, and stick in a hoff is the new mantra, easy moneyYou keep talking about this 'hoff', but shouldn't it be a 'loff'?!
made in taiwan , no name tubing, and stick in a hoff is the new mantra, easy money
yes and that's why made in taiwan , no name tubing, and stick in a hoff is the new mantra, easy moneyYou keep talking about this 'hoff', but shouldn't it be a 'loff'?!
yes and that's why made in taiwan , no name tubing, and stick in a hoff is the new mantra, easy money
i wasn't suggesting they stop what they are doing and start again from the UK, that would make no senseYes, I didn't think you were suggesting that.
but an arragment with a builder to build one off custom frames to the thorn design, paid for upfront by the customerInteresting idea. I'm sure Thorn would go for it if the price was right. :)
it would keep loyal and spendy customers happy, not cost Thorn in wages, Thorn would make some coin for arranging it and allowing the use of the design and maybe keep a tradition alive, Handbuilt in the UK
btw dn6 was made to on ones specs that doesn't mean ought to me either, Reynolds i have heard of and can't think of a reason not to want in a build, is thorn tubing better than reynolds? i don't know that either i'm not an expert in such things, i just like to ride nice bikes as often as i can
969 is Thorn's 4130 Cro-mo tube name. Does anyone know what the tube thicknesses are?
Yes, 969. Or to be precise 0.9-0.6-0.9
Now what are you going to do with that information?
hi John
the topic is never going to stay in a straight line, it is broadly going in the direction it started in
i have no more input i have said my bit
the only thing i didn't touch on is you want more bling, the only bling a Thorn needs is the stainless headbadge that they ditched, bad move, who wouldn't pay an extra few quid to have that back, POS stick on badge ::)
btw not sure why you posted your last comment as this has been one of the better threads in ages, and your not happy with it LOL
perhaps it should of been split again and your original post would have died
btw i agree about handmade and British i have put it in my posts in this thread, some might say Thorn have sold out and are just another boutique brand now with just a vestige of their former glory days
i bought a xTc classic and a xTc fillet brazed frame in the Thorn sell out, why because i knew they were never going to make as good a bikes again for my needs
Yes but they have to make money, and Thorn have chosen to occupy the niche that is the Taiwanese batch factory handbuilt touring bike (either heavy duty Sherpa/Raven/Nomad, or lighter duty ClubTour/Audax, plus a few Tandems).
If you want handbuilt in the UK, there are others who can supply that niche, but the volumes are much lower and the costs much higher (probably at least double on the price of a frameset).
They used to do more colours (most frames were available in four colours at least), but unfortunately only two colours in each model seems to be the option now, presumably for economic reasons, cost of ordering more batches, stock costs, etc.
Personally I think they have the balance between Rohloff and derailleur bikes about right just now.
As for bling, presumably most Thorn customers don't really want bling on their touring bikes.
Presumably Thorn know their market, sales figures, and customers better than the handful of us who frequent this forum.
Presumably Thorn know their market, sales figures, and customers better than the handful of us who frequent this forum.
yes and that's why made in taiwan , no name tubing, and stick in a hoff is the new mantra, easy money
i called it no name tubing as all the older ,dare i say proper Thorns very proudly told you of the reynolds tubes used in the frame,
i have to be really careful as i really am not trying to denigrate the new Thorns,
But John has talked about better/nicer/more upmarket frames like they used to be.
i'm just adding a voice that says i agree the older kit is much more desirable
a lot would probably shell out the extra to get a Thorn like you used to
if they can out source mass produced frames, then at a cost to the buyer is there no UK frame builder they could trust with their design to make them?
yes it's going to be expensive it always was but more people spend big money on their dream bike than ever before
they even spend it ondisposablecarbon bikes ;)
Hello,
I agree with what Thorn are now doing!
I just do not like it and would prefer home built brazed rather than tig frames.
I actually own other brand bike (s) and whilst tig welded look more brazed and the paint rather than powder coating is fabulous.
Happens that the guys had a bare set of forks in older unsold stock, and that I can get those for $100 -- painted by (read this and weep, you lot) Guiseppe Marinoni's shop in Montréal.
If you really need discs, Bill, and you want them on a bike you already have, and you're an experienced restorer, surely it's a pretty small project on your scale of things to either have a disc brake tag fitted to the frame and repaint it, or to swap in a disc fork.
Why would a quality road bike be useless in your area hills i'de imagine .
i'm 62 a lot of my routes are hilly my Terry Dolan carbon beauty makes for easier cycling.
like u my sherpa was a dog on hills the audax i had was great but to big for me.
why in gods name do u want disc brakes the pro's hate them.
853 Thorn audax with ultegra groupset and good set hand made wheels your away in a hack .
jags.
Hycle (hydraulic): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmHcUqaDVYs
Dan, do you fancy going for a pedal in that?If it can be fitted with drop' handlebars, yes!