Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Cycle Tours => Topic started by: Matt2matt2002 on May 18, 2015, 12:43:56 pm
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Hello folks.
After x years of thought and y years of planning, I am about to fly from Edinburgh UK to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan for a 2 month tour.
Hopefully bike South into Tajikistan and then along the Pamir Highway.
Quite a few sections above 3,000m and a few passes at 4,000+m.
Meeting up with 2 guys from Oz and a lady from New Zealand. All experienced travelers.
I fly out on Saturday 23rd and the others arrive 3 days later.
Booked into a guest house but have 2 others as back up. I get the impression that no firm bookings are taken, so something of potluck as to finding a bed. But my 3 day lead on the others will allow be to scope out the set up for them.
Visa required for Tajikistan and also a permit for the GBOA region.
Latest news is that due to political trouble across the border in Afghanistan, the permits have been suspended.
News flying about the various forums giving conflicting advice, so fingers and spokes crossed for the situation to be resolved.
Route:
Bishkek, Osh, Dushanbe, Khorog, Sary Tash, Osh and Dushanbe.
Number crunching the mileage indicates a steady speed required. We want to smell those roses but due to distances and visa & flight home times, the clock needs to be watched.
Lots of good info on the crazyguy site and I have called a guy who did most of our route last year. Good tips on clothing and road conditions.
Wanted to finish off with thanks to all the forks who have given me great advice on my Raven, The Old Bird.
She's in tip top condition and a lot of that is down to the tips and advice I have received here.
I'll try to keep in touch once on the road. But the term 'road' is used very loosely!
Matt
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Trip of a lifetime. Best of luck and enjoy.
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Good luck, Matt, the sort of trip we would all envy but rarely manage.
Best wishes
Lewis
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Have a great trip, Matt
Enjoy yourself.
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Matt
Enjoy, stay safe , and remember to pack the camera. Looking forward to hearing all about it.
Regards Alfie
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Wow, that is really the trip of my dreams! I hope you get to hear some music over there! Very rich culture!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCPdY699HLA
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Wow Matt this is gonna be epic.enjoy every pedal stroke stay safe ;)
anto.
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That's a great trip, Matt. Enjoy. Take care. Take plenty of photographs.
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Wow, great trip - hope all pans out for you (and companions) regarding visas etc. Stay safe but enjoy - I'm very jealous but will probably never do that sort of tour now. Post experiences and photos when you can so we can all get a taste of the adventure!!
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Have a great trip Matt, you're an inspiration for the way you've taken up touring such a short time ago and are now off on a classic adventure! Hope the raven does you proud.
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Great ride.
We did that trip in 2012 before we got the Thorns.
Took us months but its a classic.
The hills do end eventually.
Safe ride
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Safe journey, Matt, with lots of adventures and tall tales that will grow with the telling! Look forward to your photos and posts.
John
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How wonderful, Matt!
All best wishes go with you for a tour packed to the brim with the"right" kind of Adventure...the kind where you remain safe but end with a lifetime of tales to relate whilst sitting around the campfire.
Tailwinds,
Dan.
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Have a great time! I'm not adventurous enough to do something as exotic as that but enjoy the thought of other people doing it.
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Good to see the planning put into action, hope it's all you want
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Enjoy. Stay safe. Bring us all back a stick of rock!
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;D ;D i always say that to people heading off on holiday.
bring me back a stick of rock ;D ;D
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Bring us all back a stick of rock!
What a wonderful phrase!
I must remember this... :D
All the best,
Dan.
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has a couple different meaning Dan ;)
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your tripping my trip. Not fair, yeah, I'm green with envy. :D Make sure you post a lot of photos when you can.
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What a wonderful phrase!
I must remember this... :D
All the best,
Dan.
It's more of a request Dan, asking someone to bring back a stick of rock (candy cain) as a gift, usually from the sea side. They have writing in the middle sometimes the town where it was purchased from ie Blackpool, Scarborough, Brighton. It might say "Kiss me quick" or "I love you" etc.
One can only wonder what it might say if you could get one from the "Stans"
Getting back on track, An adventure of a life time or the beginning of many.
Andy ( who is struggling to get any further than the end of my street!)
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Andy ( who is struggling to get any further than the end of my street!)
That remark resembles me!
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Many thanks, chaps.
I am truly blessed to be amongst such a generous, bunch.
The knowledge and banter here never ceases to amaze me.
I am honestly touched by your best wishes.
I feel as if I will be taking a small part of each of you with me.
Now there is an image to hold on to!
I have started a blog over on that other site well frequented by bike tourers.
Not sure of the politics of cross pollinating sites so shoot me down if the link is inappropriate.
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=k1&doc_id=15673&v=2A
Matt. Who will be loading up with rocks of one type or another before flying home at the end of July.
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It's more of a request Dan, asking someone to bring back a stick of rock (candy cain) as a gift, usually from the sea side. They have writing in the middle sometimes the town where it was purchased from ie Blackpool, Scarborough, Brighton. It might say "Kiss me quick" or "I love you" etc.
One can only wonder what it might say if you could get one from the "Stans"
Halva, Uzbekistan
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4f/Orient_sweets_(special_halva)_Samarkand,_Siyab.jpg/980px-Orient_sweets_(special_halva)_Samarkand,_Siyab.jpg)
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Worth the trip for the desserts alone!
All the best,
Dan.
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i think there will be more deserts than desserts.
;)
Not planning to go to Uzbekistan but I'll check out the desserts for sure.
whats that point in time when all the planning and packing has been done but the flight doesnt leave for 24 hours.
I'm there.
:D
matt
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I believe that halva is made and eaten right through the Middle East and into Central Asia (along with parts of South Asia and North Africa). Basically the whole islamic and jewish world (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halva).
http://kurma.net/essays/e17.html
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love to give that a taste looks delicious.
Matt will you have loads of time to wander through all these places (Anto never heard off ) or are you on a tight schedule i know when we toured spain it was a pain in the arse rushing to get to the hotel nice to know you have all the time in the world to explore the area.
anto
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Only 1 more sleep then Matt!!
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So excited and happy for you, Matt!
All best wishes on your journey,
Dan.
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Great stuff Matt! I have been thinking and reading about the Pamir Highway. Looking forward to your reports! Have fun!
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Only 1 more sleep then Matt!!
Half a sleep now.
In a Travel lodge a mile from the airport.
Looking at the lights on the runway from the hotel window.
So near, yet so far.
Thanks for good wishes, folks.
Matt
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Hello from Bishkek folks.
Settled in to a great wee hostel and awaiting the arrival of my 3 travel buddies from Oz.
I thought I'd mention a bike fact.
I did not deflate my tires one bit and they were fine.
The check in guy asked me if I had any inflammable fuel in the bike box and hag deflated the tires.
I truthfully said no.
Well, a half truth.
Just thought I'd mention the pressure issue since it has been discussed in the past on the forum.
Travel buddies should all be here Thurs, visas for Tajikistan on Friday and hit the tarmac Saturday.
Matt
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You're on your way! Have you been out exploring on your bike? How's the traffic? The food?
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stay safe Matt and enjoy 8)
anto
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Matt,
It sounds as though it was an expedition just getting to the embassy to get your visas. there seems to be a lot of filling stations. As jags says enjoy and stay safe.
Regards.
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Matt,
It sounds as though it was an expedition just getting to the embassy to get your visas. there seems to be a lot of filling stations. As jags says enjoy and stay safe.
Regards.
Thanks JimK and Jags.
Petrol stations?
Well I guess I thought I'd use them to guide folk. And yes, there are plenty of them.
Traffic? Got to be on your toes here.
Taxi Mimi buses draw in front without a thought.
Drain grids facing the wrong way, to grab your wheels.
Pot holes everywhere. And exhaust pollution is high so try to breath through my nose as much as possible.
But I find drivers pay attention to my waves and eye contact. And a positive attitude plus some assertiveness at times helps.
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Petrol stations?
Well I guess I thought I'd use them to guide folk. And yes, there are plenty of them.
I wonder if you'll see folk selling petrol/diesel from plastic water bottles up in the mountains... That's how petrol stations looked there in 2005. Enjoy the trip!
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Thanks JimK and Jags.
Petrol stations?
Well I guess I thought I'd use them to guide folk. And yes, there are plenty of them.
Traffic? Got to be on your toes here.
Taxi Mimi buses draw in front without a thought.
Drain grids facing the wrong way, to grab your wheels.
Pot holes everywhere. And exhaust pollution is high so try to breath through my nose as much as possible.
But I find drivers pay attention to my waves and eye contact. And a positive attitude plus some assertiveness at times helps.
Bit like ireland so :D mind yourself Matt.
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I wonder if you'll see folk selling petrol/diesel from plastic water bottles up in the mountains... That's how petrol stations looked there in 2005. Enjoy the trip!
When we needed some we would ask any driver or household. They all had some stashed.
If the price is right it was for sale. Its a good currency there
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Hello folks.
Your intrepid traveller reporting in after 700 amazing Km.
Check your Google maps. We rode from Bishkek to Osh.
Roads all tarmac so my 2" Shwalbe a slight over-kill but zero punctures.
Other team members on 1.25's and doing well.
One problem we have had is finding good food to eat.
Few fruit around. Oranges like gold dust.
This has sapped our strength and coupled with a few funny tummies, made the distances of 70-90 Km very tough.
Temperatures in 30°+
Local folk very helpful and plenty of hello's.
More to report later.
Please pm me any requests for specific info on this area of the world.
And once again, thanks for all your support.
Matt
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Your going well Matt pity you didnt bring a box of energy gels along great for energy .you'll be as skinny as a rake by the time you get home. dont forget the photos and the odd video its the only way this kid will see that part of the world.
enjoy and stay safe.
anto.
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Your going well Matt pity you didnt bring a box of energy gels along great for energy .you'll be as skinny as a rake by the time you get home. dont forget the photos and the odd video its the only way this kid will see that part of the world.
enjoy and stay safe.
anto.
Thanks Anti.
I did back a few energy gels but just about as I'm about to take one I see an even bigger hill ahead, so hold off.
I really will take one soon!
As for being skinny, my belt is already 2 notches tighter.
Any more and I'll have to run around in the shower to get wet.
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;D ;D not a bad complaint Matt makes for getting up those hills easier ;)
anto.
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All going well here folks.
Have the bike a good check over.
Mudguards may be a problems. Not much clearances with 2+ inch tires.
May have to dump them.
Gave the bike a check over.
Some oil leak, minimal, around the Axel. Not the bit where I top up the oil.
Any thoughts?
Matt
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I think the Rohloff will normally seep a bit of oil out from around the axles, so that sounds like nothing to worry about.
Great to hear that you and your bike are holding up!
Yeah more that once I have thought that I should have got the 65 mm fenders rather than the 55 mm. Many worse problems possible!
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A little oil getting out is natural. Don't worry about it. Think of it as stopping dust getting in.
I have the P65 mudguards and even they wouldn't have clearances suitable for riding on muddy roads. Someone commented on our ride yesterday that all over my bike, including between the tyres (60mm) and the mudguards, the standard clearance seems to be 1mm.
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Thanks folks.
Very reassuring.
Onwards tomorrow..
Dushanbe.
And then the riding begins in earnest.
Matt
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Onwards tomorrow..
Dushanbe.
And then the riding begins in earnest.
Viva!!
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Some oil leak, minimal, around the Axel.
Perhaps an artifact of your recent air travel, Matt. I'd wipe it clean and watch for any new seepage.
Best,
Dan.
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Yes, a bit of oil is nothing to worry about. High atmospheric pressure on the flightless. or even your current location is likely a contributing factor.
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Hello folks.
Reporting in from Dushanbe, Tajikistan.
All going well.
No more Thorns sighted but up to my third Rohloff.
Tomorrow I set off from here, eastwards to Kohrog, the Pamir Highway.
Many thanks for comments on the oil issue.
Not proving to be serious.
Matt
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Glad to hear to going well, can't wait for the photo's
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Your intrepid traveller reporting in from Khorog Tajikistan.
All going well and having 2 rest days here before heading east to Murgarb and then north back into Kyrgyzstan.
Raven behaving well, all things ( such as mud and rough roads) considered.
2 questions.
On a really deep muddy road I was nearly up to my axels.
The magic stick came out to clear the mud wedged between wheels and tires.
On the rear tire I was poking about so much I sheared off the connecting rivets at the top most point of the guards.
Not the catch section near the brakes and not the most rear part.
Chromatic guards.
2+ inch marathons. Not much room at the best of times.
Guard now rattles a bit but does the job.
Any thoughts on how to re fit or tie the top most part of the guard?
2nd question.
Very happy with the marathons xr.
But with the roads frequently deteriorating to rock, rubble, gravel, sand or pot holes, what pressures would you recommend?
I have no guage with me, so: brick hard, hard hard, hard, hard/ soft?
Carrying tent, 4 panniers, food and 4 liters of water.
So pretty loaded. Although I think I've lost 3kg!!
All answers and thoughts much appreciated.
Matt
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for tire pressure - probably the best way is just to look at the tire deformation when you are on the bike and riding on a bit of pavement. You want a little deformation but not very much!
Here is an idea for reattaching the mudguards. Not sure that I understand what broke exactly. But if you have a bit of string - dental floss is famous for such things - and a couple bits of twig, something like this might work. In town you can probably do better. E.g. maybe you can find some flat-top nails and have the top of the nail on the inside of the mudguard and the nail sticking out through the fender. Bend the nail somehow, hmmm. It depends so much on materials and tools available. The string and twig idea is more like a side-of-the-road hack.
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Thanks Jim.
Good advice on tire pressures.
The rims and spokes take a real pounding over here.
Re the ' guard problem.
What sheared off/ broke were the rivets holding the guard to the stays.
Standing over the rear of the bike, they are directly down, on top of the curve of the ' guard.
The nut holding the guard at the base of the frame is fine.
There is a clamp arrangement near the brakes. That's fine too.
And then the rear stays are attached.
My sillybfault for poking about with the stick to dislodge the mud.
Matt
I'll try the string suggestion.
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I like cable ties for times like these. I always have a selection of sizes with me, as well as some Velcro, elastic bands (heavy duty) and paper clips (for wire, reaming, etc).
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It's futile to check the level of inflation by trying to press the rolling surface of the tyre. Test pressure by squeezing the sidewalls. In these rough road conditions, loaded as the bike is, you want only a little give.
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That's me home folks.
Many thanks for all your comments and support.
More stats and info to follow but here are a few snippets.
XR tires. No punctures over 1,800+ Km
Didn't deflate them on flights. No pressure problems.
65 days away and Daily spend was £16.87 including a $75 visa for Tajikistan.
Return flight from Edinburgh to Bishkek was £545 so total spend was £1,642/£25 per day.
Majority of nights in guest houses or hostels at £5.50 per night.
Costs could have been a lot less if more nights under canvas.
Took $2,200 in cash plus x2 visa cards.
Never any problems with food or water. I soon realised that where there are people there is always food and water.
And although qute a few stretches were remote, folk always popped up.
Took too much gear. Never used my brand new £240 jacket!
Could have got away with no cooker.
Raven was perfect for the trip. Other bikes in my group were cheapies or Surely.
Just one puncture on 4 bikes but roads were extreme on many sections.
Even tarmac sections were dangerous at times.
Open drains and pot holes were, err..... interesting.
Great to have this forum up and running again.
I received so much advice in the run up to my tour, I honestly don't think I could have done it without folks support.
So a big thanks to whoever's been working behind the scenes.
Matt
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Surely nice to know you're back safe and sound, Matt. Looking forward to hearing more about your tour.
All the best,
Dan.
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Welcome home, Matt! Good value for ££ spent, I'd say, and good to hear that your Raven worked as advertised & expected. Look forward to reports and photos in due course, after you've caught your breath. Thanks on our behalf to Mrs Matt for her patience and support.
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It was great seeing your progress on Facebook while this forum was down, Matt. Happy to hear you're back home safely.
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Matt did u bring me back that stick of rock. ;)
anto.
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Me first Numbnuts!
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Duh. I licked it all over already, especially the part that says "Brighton".
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Ha yes- the rock.
I am a man of my word and have indeed returned with 2 rocks from the Pamir Highway.
The first rock is being sent to Dan in recognition of the work he does here as moderator.
The second ( un-licked ;) ) is up for grabs and will be sent to the person who guesses nearest the total mileage I traveled.
Miles or Km.
Answers in by 15th of August.
Good luck.
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A stab in the dark - easy now!
1,666km
What was your total weight loss in the end? You didn't look like you had much to spare when I met you!
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Thanks Temple.
Your guess is logged.
My Oz pal, Joe lost 7 Kg
He's shorter, stockier and 3 years older than me. (64)
I am 5'10" and lost 5 Kg. , my headphones and a tin opener.
In the past I have lost my wallet, credit cards and camera.
So I'm improving.
Like wine.
Mrs. Matt says, like cheese.
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Matt u should mount it on a nice piece of marble bit like paris roubix trophy. ;)
anto
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Yes. Absolutely, Anto. :)
All the best,
Dan.
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;) matt piece of rock will only mean something to him i reckon great memory to have.
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The second ( un-licked ;) ) is up for grabs and will be sent to the person who guesses nearest the total mileage I traveled.
I'll play.
1543km.
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I am 5'10" and lost 5 Kg. , my headphones and a tin opener.
In the past I have lost my wallet, credit cards and camera.
So I'm improving.
Like wine.
Mrs. Matt says, like cheese.
I lost no weight, a Tilley hat and a camping towel.
I think that you should keep the rock as a memento, unless you have another one that you are not telling us about!
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Well, yes.
I did indeed bring 3 back.
So 1 for Dan.
1 for me ( mounted ).
And 1 up for grabs.
Keep those guesses a cummin, folks.
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Many, many thanks for your thoughtfulness, Matt. I am thrilled beyond description. :)
Meanwhile, here is a link to keep the Adventure Juices flowing for others pondering a nice tour on "other" roads. Your Pamil Highway is included, though I would quibble with the "dangerous" listing on many of these. With care, respect for conditions and proper preparation, many of these roads would make for great travel, at least by bicycle:
http://www.dangerousroads.org/
All the best,
Dan.
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Well Matt i don't really think u done that many miles everytime i seen the photos you were either dancing playing music drinking with all the local heads i'd say you stayed in the one village for most of that tour kidnapped by the locals. 8)
but once you got going i'd say 900 miles and 25yds.
yours in cycling
Anto best armchair tourer on this here forum.
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My wild stab in the dark is 2863km.
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My guess, 2135 km
Andy
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Time is up lads.
Here is the answer.
Taken a few days before I flew home
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8Q6-LwmJzyZuhjUnFXdmbPNcbWKCsqHljJSQz9OEmK4=w682-h909-no)
However, I have a dilemma.
AndyE guessed 2135 Km
Macspud guessed 2863 Km
My maths is poor but I make 2500 Km, half way between the 2?
I did ride a few more KM after the picture was taken so Macspud is in one way nearer.
But before the competition started I had set the figure in my mind as the one shown on the speedo.
Can I ask Dan to adjudicate please?
Matt
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Have u a good sharp saw Matt cut it in half ;)
anto.
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Have u a good sharp saw Matt cut it in half ;)
Solomonic wisdom!
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Hi All!
Acting in the role of adjudicator, I looked at this many ways, trying my hardest to be fair to all contestants and these two closest guesses.
Finally, I figured the nearest "miss" should get the prize.
Matt, your odometer reads 2450.
Mac's guess is 2863. 2863-2450= "missed" by 413 on the high side.
AndyE's guess is 2135. 2450-2135= "missed" by 315 on the low side.
Therefore, the "closest" guess or "nearest miss" is 315 vs 413, so I declare AndyE "winner" in this contest.
All the best,
Dan. (...who is astonished the average of the two closest guesses is almost the exact distance Matt traveled).
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...who is astonished the average of the two closest guesses is almost the exact distance Matt traveled
Brilliant stuff, guys. More evidence that Symmetry can occasionally trump chaos and entropy. All that's needed to flush it to the surface now & then is for Matt to head off to say hello to a few 'stans. I have to believe that the odometer was in on the act -- a nice round 2450.0 kms seems, well, something other than Just a Nice Round Number :-)
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John, I did say,
I did ride a few more KM after the picture was taken so Macspud is in one way nearer.
So the speedo was quite accurate at the time, since I had seen the numbers creeping up.
It happened to be the day before I flew home.
Honest.
AndyE.
Please pm me your address and I'll pop the rock in the post.
Doesn't happen to be Tajikistan by any chance?
😂
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Just teasing, Matt. I really liked the Nice Round Number, improbable as it was ;-)
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Doesn't happen to be Tajikistan by any chance?
😂
Hi Matt , unfortunately not. I have gathered a few rocks over the years, from all over the world, unfortunately lost when moving to where I live now. I started a new collection from the west coast of Scotland, 3 so far.The Tajikistan rock will take pride of place in my new collection.
I was going to pick one up the beach of Village bay from my visit to St Kilder (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St_Kilda,_Scotland) this June!
(http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/electriceel_bucket/St%20Kilder/P6090084.jpg)
But they were a bit big, they have a bulldozer to move them of the slipway and back on to the beach!!
Thanks Dan for flipping a coin.
Andy.
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Thanks Matt, the rock has landed.
(http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq232/electriceel_bucket/IMG_0125.jpg)
It's the one at the front, in pride of place. It has a pink hue with quarts type crystals.
Andy
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Hey Matt, belated congratulations on your stan trip. Seems like a life ago you were on here asking questions about Pakistan :)
I cant wait to go and do it myself one day.
Best of luck on any future adventures..Richie
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Thanks Ritchie.
Only 3 months ago but feels like 3 years!
I hope to return next summer if family commitments allow.
Thanks also to AndyE.
So good to see my,/ your rock added to the collection.
I waited nearly a week in Leverburgh last year for the ocean swell to die down so the boat could leave for St. Kilda.
Frustrating since the weather was good..
Never made the crossing!!
That was in 20012.
This year - you got the rock.
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Clearing out the hard drive and came upon this clip from my tour last year.
Put it up on Youtube and wanted to see if it would post here.
(https://youtu.be/PJrIJYW7YT0)
I see it only opens on another page. Any way I can correct this?
Thanks
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Humm
Not opening from my tablet. It did from my desktop
??
Does this work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJrIJYW7YT0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJrIJYW7YT0)
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Yes Matt, works on my tablet.
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Hi Matt!
As for In4, your latest post works fine on my devices; the video opens in a separate window.
I see it only opens on another page. Any way I can correct this?
There is, but there are reasons why it should not.
HTML linked videos will indeed open and play as embedded on SMF Forum pages provided Flash has been enabled by Forum Administrators. However, enabling Flash represents a security risk -- however small -- for our members. For this reason, it is best to have the video open in a separate window (YouTube, in your case). YouTube has dropped Flash for the same reasons, and now uses HTML5 as its default web player.
Best,
Dan.
Thorn Cycling Forum Administrator