Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Member's Gallery => Topic started by: Chris M on January 03, 2014, 12:17:32 PM
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Hello All, I've finally finished building my new Club Tour, it took a bit longer than I expected but it's my first build so was learning along the way with much help from the forum.
I've used some parts from my old Trek; crankset, stem, shifters, seat post and tyres being reused. The new Marathon Supremes I ordered are still missing despite the courier having delivered them….somewhere! The rack has also come from my Trek. Everything else is new.
Full Shimano XT components, 26/36/48 chainset with an 11-34T cassette at the rear. The wheels are also brand new, hand built by DCR Wheels; DT Swiss TK540 Rims with XT hubs (36H rear, 32H front). All topped off with my new B17 Special sitting on a Thomson Elite Setback post
I've cut the steerer but left 40mm to play with while I make the necessary adjustments to fit etc.
I'd like to add a Carradice saddlebag but don't have much clearance with only 100mm to the top edge of the rack. I've got Ortlieb Back Rollers for my commute but they're a bit big for day rides. I might be able to squeeze in a Carradice Zipped Roll, I think the green one with honey straps would look good against the saddle.
Chris
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Looks rather nice! Are those ergon gp5 grips? I've got GP4 ones on mine and was wondering what difference the little bit at the very top makes.
On the carridice bags, sounds like the opportunity to get a lowsaddle longflap bag :)
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Thanks honesty. The grips are GP5, that's what it said on the box they came in but printed on them is GC3, I'm pretty sure they are the same thing though. I've looked at the Carradice Low Saddle but it's got a height of 19cm and I'm not sure how much clearance it needs below the saddle, anyone know?
Cheers
Chris
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that's one cool looking bike great build first rate ;)
I'm dead curious to know how it rides loaded up rear panniers,i have no doubt its a comfy ride but whats it like at high speed like steep down hill, does it climb well, is the paint work good.
any hassle with the build .
sorry for so many questions but i can't make my mind up on that club tour or going for the Audax frameset,
i reckon i' will only be using rear panniers and barbag on whatever frame i go for.
anyway super looking bike enjoy every pedal stroke stay safe.
jags.
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Nice bike, Chris -- well done! Really like the dark green -- wisht there was such a colour available for my New Raven. (My preferred colours are dark green and midnight blue, but they're not so common, unfortunately.) Happy & safe riding when the weather permits.
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Hi Chris!
Another Thorn pride and joy, and deservedly so! You've done a wonderful job on the build and it looks fantastic, everything "just so". You can feel really proud of the bike and the work you've done.
So good to see a new Club Tour in the gallery; they're fine looking bikes, so versatile, and oh that lovely color! ;D
All congratulations your way; many happy journeys, Chris.
Best,
Dan.
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You could fit a Carradice Barley saddlebag on there easily enough, it would rest on the rack top but that would be ok,.
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Thanks for all the good comments.
jags; the paintwork seems to a really good standard, I found no flaws in it during the build, time will tell if it holds up but I've no reason to expect it not to. The only problem I had with the actual build was my lack of knowledge/experience and having the wrong derailleur etc. Once I'd sorted that out it was fairly straight forward. Surprisingly, I found the mud guards the most awkward to fit and get right. The Club Tour has the mounting bolt for the rear mud guard on a bridge under the seat, the hole points in an upwards direction, I had to fit the slide on bridge part of the mudguard and then bend the whole lot back on itself to fit it, covering the head of the bolt in the process. It's going to make removing them awkward but not impossible.
The only other problem was fitting the brakes to the wrong levers, I had the front brake connected to the lever on the left side of the handlebar. I only noticed it late last night so got the stand out again to put it right.
As for the actual ride; I'll update you as I get to know the bike better. I haven't had it out yet (I'm nursing bruised ribs from quite a big 'off' the week before Xmas and haven't ridden since), I'm hoping to have the first ride tomorrow to make sure it's all running OK for my commute on Monday.
rualexander; thanks for the tip, I'll look into that. I've just come back from Condor Cycles with the Zipped Roll and it fits perfectly but would like something that would take all my commute gear during the week. The Zipped Roll seems perfect for a short ride with just tools and a lightweight jacket.
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Surprisingly, I found the mud guards the most awkward to fit and get right. The Club Tour has the mounting bolt for the rear mud guard on a bridge under the seat, the hole points in an upwards direction...
Hi Chris! If you ever wish to, you can remove the clip and drill a hole in the mudguard to accept a bolt going straight through and into the mounting boss on the seatstay bridge, as Thorn do. To fill the gap, they use a nut or two and washers as needed. Makes a very secure assembly and easy removal and replacement if needed.
So sorry to hear about the "off"; hope the ribs feel better soonest!
Best,
Dan.
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Many thanks Dan, I hadn't considered that. At some point I'll definitely change it over and mount it that way as it looks a bit odd the way it is.
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Great looking bike Chris. I really like the British Racing Green, and the decals on the older Thorns - as opposed to the current decals.
You could always put a front pannier on the back for your commute.
Happy cycling.
Jim
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Shimano XT components, 26/36/48 chainset with an 11-34T cassette at the rear
A further thought, Chris: On my current Eclipse touring bike, I've used a variety of der's & chainsets over the past ten years, and currently have Shim Deore's fore and aft, 24-36-48 at the front and 12 - 36 at the rear.
The ratios on this current setup work quite well for me. For example, the 24T small ring mated to the 36T cog at the rear (giving approx 18.3 gear-inches) allows me to pedal my loaded bike up some steep-ish hills (grade unknown, but I'd guess about 15%.) Depending on your use, that may be a lower low than you need. I've also found that the middle chainring at the front suits for about 90% of my riding unloaded, & about 80% when loaded.
I've had recurrent derailleur adjustment problems over the years, however, with both this and other setups--at the level of serious nuisance rather than catastrophe, happily, but enough to exhaust my patience with the device. It's largely for that reason that I'm having a New Raven-with-Rohloff built this Jan/Feb (with gear ratios which give me a couple of gears below my current gear-inch low.) The Eclipse will be "retired" to day rides, lightly loaded or unloaded. Dan's generous and informed advice has helped me greatly to get a better adjustment on my rear der (the main source of irritation in the past). And interestingly, Graham Smith in Australia (a Sherpa rider) has also observed that he's had no major problems with Shim products beginning with "X". So, good luck with your XT setup!
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That bike looks really purposeful, just ready to pounce.
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Thanks Jim, the colour was a major selling point for me. Before deciding on the Thorn, I'd spent ages playing on the Mercian bike builder and always came back to the BRG. I didn't realise the graphics had changed, the box my frame came in says it is a 2008 model but I'm not sure what model (if any) that is.
John, like yourself; most of my riding only uses the middle chainring. I had considered the 44/32/22 set up but as I had the larger one already decided to keep that, more due to saving money than anything else. The 44/32/22 would be a better option for me though as I'd have more usable gear options. I'll keep my eye open for one though in the future as they are already being heavily discounted. I've got faith in the XT set up especially after finding out that I'd run it for a couple of years with the wrong cage rear derailleur, it was hard to adjust but ran OK when set up.
I'm now waiting for a break in the rain, for some reason I don't want my first ride on it to be in the wet!
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Chris, I've a new Thorn too, a Nomad MK2, and I don't want to get it wet either! It has been raining a lot here lately and it's our summer here in New Zealand, so I have been reverting back to my bush walks when it has been raining - I don't care if I get wet. So far I've been able to ride it 10 times since my first ride on December 19th for just over 300kms and in that time I have only been brave enough to take it out in some very very light drizzle once. Good luck with the weather and good luck for the first ride.
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Congratulations, Chris! Your CT looks great. Building your own bike is a very satisfying experience.
My Trek 520 is green with fine metallic gold flakes and gold lettering. I've gussied it up with gold cages, a honey B17 and bar tape. It looks too good to sell, even though it's now surplus to requirements (Attila the Nomad now takes pride of place). I run it out occasionally, as it's a beautiful and smooth bike.
I'm also using Marathon Supremes (700c x 35) on the Trek (Duremes on the Nomad), and they are superb!
Happy Riding!
Sam
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Just got in from a very wet ride. I find it very difficult to start off a ride in the rain but if the rain starts when I'm out so be it. We are having lots of floods here in the South West UK at the moment. The people complain but my New Raven doesn't seem to mind a bit. :)
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Me to just in from a very tough 20 miles, tough because i'm not doing to much cycling these days. cant really blame the weather as i meet loads of cyclists when i'm out in the car.
the weather is wet and windy lotes of flooded roads.anyway i'm all fed and watered now feel good so now to put feet up and watch an auld cowboy on tv ;D ;D
mudguards are great 8)
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Seems we all have the dreaded rain at the moment...
nztony; good luck with the Nomad and hopefully you'll get a few dry days soon.
Slammin Sammy; thanks mate and you're right; there's definitely a sense of satisfaction to be had by building your own bike up. I'm also keeping my old Trek 7.3FX and will build it back up with the original 8 speed parts that came with it. I only had about 500 miles on it before converting to XT so it should be as good as new although I may need new wheels.
Well, the rain finally stopped and I managed to get out for a test run just to make sure everything was running ok:
http://connect.garmin.com/activity/424524483 (http://connect.garmin.com/activity/424524483)
I need to get it on the stand again tomorrow, the front mudguard has a very slight rub that is only heard when on the bike. I also need to look at the bottom bracket/cranks/pedals, there's something not right in that area; a slight creak and 'gritty' feel through the pedals. It's a new Hope Stainless bottom bracket and new Nuke Proof flat pedals. I think it may be the crank bolts as I only tightened them to 12Nm, the bottom of the suggested 12-15Nm. Nothing I'm too concerned with anyway.
Here's the bike enjoying a rest outside The Tower of London while I'd stopped to see if I could adjust the mudguard:
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...the front mudguard has a very slight rub that is only heard when on the bike.
Hi Chris!
I notice you used the bottom boss to attach the front mudguard stays using the SecuClip. If the rubbing problem persists, you may wish to try attaching it to the next boss up, where Thorn do theirs. This will shorten the length of the stay and stiffen the 'guard considerably, especially on a bike with 700C wheels, which are larger in diameter than 26in. You would of course need to trim the excess length of stay.
An added advantage of the upper mount (especially if the SecuClip is not used) is the radius of the stay/'guard is greater than the radius of the wheel. This means if wet leaves or other debris jam the tire/guard, the 'guard will try to rotate in an arc that takes it away from the tire.
If the stays are attached at the lower point, any jamming will cause the 'guard to rotate forward and draw it down into the tire, making the jamming worse. The SecuClips will allow the stays to pop loose in any event, but using the upper mount would allow you to safely do away with them, resulting in an even stiffer mount and while still preventing a jam-stop.
The photos below show the difference and reasons why on one of my bikes that is closest to your Club Tour in design, with red lines standing in for the stays, "sized" properly for each mounting point.
Hope this helps. So glad you got out for a ride on your wonderful new bike!
All the best,
Dan.
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Thanks for that Dan, it does look a lot safer that way. Hopefully I'll have it all sorted tomorrow and will change the stay position to the upper boss. I'm assuming the SecuClip just pulls off the stay? My mudguards came with them already fitted. I already had to trim the stays as there was quite a bit sticking through; Dremel to the rescue!
Chris
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I'm assuming the SecuClip just pulls off the stay?
Yep! Fortunately, the stay is in one piece.
You've done a terrific job on the build, Chris; much-admired by me.
Best,
Dan.
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Yep! Fortunately, the stay is in one piece.
You've done a terrific job on the build, Chris; much-admired by me.
Best,
Dan.
Thank you kindly, Sir.
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Well, the mudguard stays have been adjusted and mounted to the upper boss, I've cut the stays down but left a bit extra just in case it's needed. A ride around the block and they seem fine now. I'll get the dremel out again next weekend and tidy up the ends a bit.
I was still getting the noise from the pedal area despite tightening the cranks and pedals. Back on the stand, I removed everything and nipped the bottom bracket up a touch more. Another ride around the block and the noise was still there, I'm getting worried now. On the way back I changed to the largest chainring and everything ran smooth, down to the bottom chainring and still no problems. Putting it back onto the middle chainring and the noise is back...don't know how I missed it last night but the inner side of the cage is rubbing slightly on the chain, but only on the middle chainring. I put it back onto the largest chainring and went for a spin around Regents Park...can't believe how smooth the bike feels. I can only describe it as having driven an old van for years and then changing to a top end car. I came home with a smile just enjoying the feeling.
I'll have to fiddle with the front derailleur on the way to work tomorrow but at least I know it's nothing to be concerned about. Happy days!
Chris
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CHRIS I WOULD LAY A POUND TO A PENNY THAT CLICKING IS COMING FROM BOTTOM BRACKER BEARINGS.on my sherpa i had the same set up but i got the b/b faced beore fitting outer bearings never had a problem, but on my look kx light i went throgh 3 sets of bearings so check them out.
i could be wrong usually am but no harm checking. ;)
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Cheers jags, I'll have a look at the front derailleur and if the noise still persists will go back to the BB. It's a new Hope stainless BB so wouldn't expect it to be faulty. I had the frame BB faced by SJS before they sent it out, if it is the BB it has to be something I've done wrong though not sure what as I pre-loaded the bearings correctly and have checked them again today.
Thanks mate.
Chris
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;)no worries good hunting.
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Looks good Chris, there is something very satisfying about your own personal build. You know and are responsible for every inch, and if it goes wrong you can fix it. You should be proud.
Just out if interest how did you cut the mud guard stays, mine still need cutting back after 15 month ::).
All the best.
Peter
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Looks good Chris, there is something very satisfying about your own personal build. You know and are responsible for every inch, and if it goes wrong you can fix it. You should be proud.
Just out if interest how did you cut the mud guard stays, mine still need cutting back after 15 month ::).
All the best.
Peter
Thanks Peter, you're right about feeling satisfied by building your own, I learned quite a bit too which has to be a good thing.
I cut the mud guard stays with a Dremel 3000 using a SpeedClic cutting disc:
http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/ocs/product/6076/349/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-cutting-wheels/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-metal-cutting-wheels-5-pack. (http://www.dremeleurope.com/gb/en/ocs/product/6076/349/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-cutting-wheels/dremel%C2%AE-ez-speedclic:-metal-cutting-wheels-5-pack.)
Hope that helps.
Chris
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I cut mine with a dermel too, it can melt the mudguard a wee bit.
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I will get the dremel out at the weekend.
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Not the most picturesque of pictures but here's the Club Tour earning it's keep as my daily commute. I've calculated that I've recouped approximately 5% of the total cost so far in saved fares.
I'm quite surprised by how quickly it accelerates compared to my old Trek which was sold as a flat bar road bike, not sure if it's the actual bike or I'm just more eager to put the hammer down due to the more comfortable ride, even without the Brooks being broken in yet.
I'm waiting until spring before I fit the Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, 14 months without a problem on the Marathon Plus' is hard to walk away from when parts of my commute are on an unlit towpath at 4.30am.
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wow best photo yet love it. ;)
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Cheers jags
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Nice pic. What is the mirror? I was thinking about trying to attach a mirror to my Gp5 bar grips.
Jane
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Thanks Jane, the mirror is a Busch & Muller Cycle Star;
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-cycle-star-mirror-fits-to-handlebar-end-short-curved-stem-prod16566/ (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/busch-and-muller-cycle-star-mirror-fits-to-handlebar-end-short-curved-stem-prod16566/)
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Hi Chris!
In response to your latest photo of your lovely Club Tour, I'll borrow one of jags' pet phrases,
"Class".
..."and-a-half", I might add.
Looks the business with the bags attached; wonderful build, setup, and result.
Best,
Dan.
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Many thanks Dan, it's taken 4 months to get there but now it's complete I'm very happy with the result. My thoughts are now turning to planning some decent rides on it, maybe LEJOG in a year or two.
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My current commuter bike is a flat bar, and I am surprised at how much I like it. I was really thinking I'd be wanting to convert it back to drop bars straight away but I'm actually starting to think I'd rather tour on it than my audax. I really find the bar ends are good for accelerating away with.
On tyres, have you had a look at the new Marathon Deluxe tyres? Quite expensive, but much lighter than a regular Marathon and with the same puncture protection.
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Good looking bike Chris, and it'll be ideal for LEJOG!
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On tyres, have you had a look at the new Marathon Deluxe tyres? Quite expensive, but much lighter than a regular Marathon and with the same puncture protection.
I have looked at them honesty but they're not available in my preferred 700 X 32, although i'm not sure if 700 X 35 would make much overall difference. I think they would fit ok inside my P45 SKS mudguards? I've already got the Supremes, just haven't fitted them yet, maybe something to consider later on.
Thanks Relayer ;D