Thorn Cycles Forum
Technical => General Technical => Topic started by: jags on June 12, 2013, 04:19:32 PM
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http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/page.php?nom=produit&keyProd=ImpactKid
OR
http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/page.php?nom=produit&keyProd=impacttriple,what do you lads think of these cranksets.
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Second link goes to a page with nothing on it.
First link is to Stronglight Impact short crank chainsets, crank lengths 130mm to 155mm.
The Impact is a good chainset, I've used them for a number of years in lengths 175mm and 165mm.
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Jags,
Andre already has you covered on this one...see: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=6535.msg39689#msg39689
Martin Gorman had an issue with sizing the bottom bracket with this crankset for his Sherpa a few years ago, here: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=2283.msg10914#msg10914
Vinalopo had some questions about the Impact and which BB length to use, here: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3317.msg14911#msg14911
The Impact is based on the Sugino cospea or RD2, as I recall.
For what it is worth, jags, I have long admired Sugino's and Stronglight's forged cranksets. Nearly all my single bikes are equipped with one or the other, my favorite being the Sugino AeroTour from the 1980s. Fantastic 110/74CD crank, that.
Best,
Dan.
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Thanks lads i was kinda thinking of changing the cranks on the raleigh i have shimano triple on there dont like them the rings are to big for me .so might get the triple with 1.72 arms and a much better range og gears.
oh i had these eyed up for the new audax but thats history now :-[ :'( :'(.
thanks for the links lads i'll have a look now.
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Spa Cycles do an excellent low cost version of this chainset for £35 http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2000
Also, cranks only for the bargain price of £20 http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2003
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just spotted this beauti http://www.xxcycle.com/crankset-stronglight-z-light-activ-link-compact,,en.php#specifications.
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thanks rual if i'm not mistaken spa good and all as there are expensive for postage.
i could be wrong usually am. ;D
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Hi Jags
I have the stronglight impact triple on my Nomad and it has been absolutely perfect. No issue at all and am happy with the look and finish of them too.
Andy
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cheers andy what do you think of the last link i posted fromm xxcycles.
8)
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The link seems to go to a compact double chainset rather than a triple? it depends what gearing you are wanting to achieve. I rarely use the inner chainring but when I do I am really glad it is there.
Having said that it looks a nice crankset and I am sure the quality will be good
Andy
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it just caught my eye Andy i did have a compack on my look carbon now sold it was great i had a TA36 inside ring but if i was going to the mountains the 34 was put back on in a hurry.
if i get it i will be going triple me thinks.
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Spa Cycles do an excellent low cost version of this chainset for £35 http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2000
Also, cranks only for the bargain price of £20 http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2003
Spa wrote to me a couple of years ago that they were sorting out their postage charges to Ireland. Might be worth asking them what they charge now, because basically they sell the same Sugino crank that Stronglight brands for a third of the price. On the other hand, you can buy Stronglight from XX cycles in France who reasonable postage and are a reliable dealer. http://www.xxcycle.com/road-crankset-and-stronglight,en.php (http://www.xxcycle.com/road-crankset-and-stronglight,en.php)
Note that two types of Sugino cranks are called "Impact". One is the very beautiful Cospea that I have, and the other one I think is called Alpine !! when branded by Sugino. It is the latter that Spa sells.
(http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/BASES/PRODUIT/imgHR/prodImpactcompactImgHR.jpg)
Sugino name Cospea
(http://www.stronglight.com/stronglight/BASES/PRODUIT/imgHR/prodImpacttripleImgHR.jpg)
Sugino name Alpine II (I think)
I'm just wondering if the cranks that SJS gives you anyway on a Thorn aren't either the same or a pretty good substitute for the Alpine II.
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I have aluminium Stronglight chainrings off these cranks, brand new, never used, five arm, 110 PCD, 48T and 38T.
These cranks come with either ali or steel chainrings. The steel cranksets are much cheaper. If my rings suit your gearing... If you can find a crank that otherwise suits but has steel rings, and my chainrings are any good to you, you can have them free of charge.
Andre Jute
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Hi All,
I love Sugino cranks for years. I'm looking to get a set of OX801D Compact Plus+ for my next Road/L:ight Tour bike. Look at the Chainring Combinations you can run :o
http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm (http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm)
Here is a Look See!
(http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/bmp/OX801Dtop.jpg)
Pete
8)
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Andre your a true gentleman ;)
i'm gonna hold off for a few weeks but i think i will buy the triple but what would be the the right size bottom bracket for the raleigh 753...
pete stunning cranksets thanks for posting just shows whats out there if you shop around and ask expert advice thanks lads. ;)
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Hi All,
I love Sugino cranks for years. I'm looking to get a set of OX801D Compact Plus+ for my next Road/L:ight Tour bike. Look at the Chainring Combinations you can run :o
http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm (http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm)
Here is a Look See!
(http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/bmp/OX801Dtop.jpg)
Beautiful. Thanks for the link, Pete. But where's the British Racing Green for us really FAST cyclists?
Andre Jute
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I could be wrong, but I was under the impressing sugino made the cranks for stronglight anyway...
I'm looking to rebuild my dads old bike and that sugino ox801d crank in 46/30 config looks perfect!
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I could be wrong, but I was under the impressing sugino made the cranks for stronglight anyway...
Perhaps. But we're not talking about Stronglight-designed or specific and exclusive cranks in the Impact series. What I'm saying is that those are Sugino Japan cranks just relabelled by Stronglight. That's why you can get the same cranks really cheaply from Spa if you live in Britain where the postage is reasonable.
I'm looking to rebuild my dads old bike and that sugino ox801d crank in 46/30 config looks perfect!
Unless you're as knowledgeable as Pete, this is a rod for your own back. The axle fitting is proprietary, and the equally proprietary bottom bracket is available in only one width. Where will you get spares? Sorry to be the one to tell you, and apologies if you're by profession a bike mechanic who shrugs off such difficulties...
Andre Jute
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Hi All,
I love Sugino cranks for years. I'm looking to get a set of OX801D Compact Plus+ for my next Road/L:ight Tour bike. Look at the Chainring Combinations you can run :o
http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm (http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/english/ox801d_main_english.htm)
Here is a Look See!
(http://www.suginoltd.co.jp/bmp/OX801Dtop.jpg)
Pete
8)
wonder where would a fella buy that crankset on this side of the pond,being trying to find it here but no luck any info greatly appreciated, before the wife finds my little stash under the floorboard.
cheers lads
jags.
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Hi Jags,
Just Google OX801D Compact Plus+ and I find a few places in only Seconds :o
Google is the Number one Tool in any Toolbox 8)
Pete
:-*
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Perhaps. But we're not talking about Stronglight-designed or specific and exclusive cranks in the Impact series. What I'm saying is that those are Sugino Japan cranks just relabelled by Stronglight. That's why you can get the same cranks really cheaply from Spa if you live in Britain where the postage is reasonable.
I think we are saying the same point here :)
Unless you're as knowledgeable as Pete, this is a rod for your own back. The axle fitting is proprietary, and the equally proprietary bottom bracket is available in only one width. Where will you get spares? Sorry to be the one to tell you, and apologies if you're by profession a bike mechanic who shrugs off such difficulties...
Andre Jute
Im no bike mechanic, so its probably not a good idea! I was under the impression though that the BB was a generic version of shimano hollowtech, so anything that fits shimano will fit this.
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http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s109p2801
just about to press the button this beauti what do you think £8 delivery to ireland .
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...i have shimano triple on there dont like them the rings are to big for me...
Jags,
As I recall, your Raleigh already has a triple crankset. If the reason for changing your crankset is because your present gears are too high for you...
• Is it possible to fit smaller 'rings to your present crank?
• If not, then a "tripleizer" middle ring will sometimes allow you to fit a smaller BCD small 'ring if that is the problem. For example: http://www.vintage-trek.com/tripleizer.htm They're usually intended to convert doubles to triples, but can sometimes "downsize" an existing triple by fitting a smaller BCD.
• Is it possible to fit a slightly larger cassette and so lower the gearing that way?
Just a thought or three that might save you a bit of cash towards that Audax down the road.
Best,
Dan. (...who used to sometimes convert Road Doubles to triples with 74mm BCD inner 'rings by drilling and tapping the arms, so thinks tripleizers are a comparatively "easy fix")
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http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s109p2801
just about to press the button this beauti what do you think £8 delivery to ireland .
Nice chainset, but why not get the Spa own brand and keep the £40 saved in the mk3 fund?
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very good points lads thanks,the spa ownbrand seems very dull compared to the more newer model,buy yeah i suppose it will do exactly the same job the bottom bracket that suits the crankset is very micky mouse looking bet it weighs a ton jp400 ;D
ok plan B back to spa and see if i can there own brand and maybe change the rings.
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http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s109p2801
just about to press the button this beauti what do you think £8 delivery to ireland .
That's very pricey, though the delivery is now much cheaper than when I last spoke to them. Here are the same cranksets much much cheaper, priced in Euro so you know what you're paying, €81 landed vs €97 from Spa:
http://www.xxcycle.com/crankset-stronglight-impact-triple,,en.php
In any event, what's wrong with the same thing, unbranded, from Spa for €33 landed, and you fit your own chainrings? http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s109p2003 That's a proper Sugino, stamped on the back, and you polish it yourself. It's what I was going to buy, but the Spa carriage back then was more than the cranks...
Andre Jute
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Thanks Andre any idea what width b/b i should get my raleigh b/b shell is 67mm measuring the width with outer bearing bottom bracket outside to outside is 92mm.
http://www.xxcycle.com/bottom-bracket-stronglight-jp-400-al-bsc,,en.php
i think i'll go wih this by the time i buy spa's own brand and 3 rings it probably will cost as much.
besides that price from xxcycles is not bad.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Z9NDHpH92U
so should i be going with a 122mm width :-\
sorry try this one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Z9NDHpH92U.
bit long winded but he's quiet a good mechanic.
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ok not having much luck on this.
so can i change the rings as Dan suggested on my tiagra triple chainset 5 bolt .50/39/30 thats what's on there at the moment i was hoping for
48/36/28 is it possible to get these .his could save me a fortune if it works.
btw i cant see any other numbers on the tiagra chainset.
cheers
jags.
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Hi jags!
Thanks for the further info on your crankset. Now it is identified as a Tiagra, it is possible to move forward on determining minimum chainring sizes.
According to Sheldon Brown's site ( http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/130.html ), the Tiagra uses 130mm BCD middle and large 'rings, accepting down to 38T.
The inner 'ring has a 74mm BCD, meaning it can accept down to a 24T chainring. ( http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/chainrings/74.html )
You mentioned you'd like a 48/36/28. Well...you can get real close fitting new 'rings to your old chrankset: 48/38/28.
Unless I've missed something, that should get you about where you'd like to be.
Now, the question: Would three chainrings cost you as much as a whole entire crankset pre-configured the way you'd like? I suspicion it might.
Hope this helps.
Best,
Dan.
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Thanks Dan i was just heading to me bed ;D
your more than likely right the 3 rings would cost as much i reckon if i get the steel bottom bracker 118mm it will cost me 98euro with xxcycles.
anyway i'm off talk tomorrow thanks a million dan your a brick.
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Thanks Andre any idea what width b/b i should get my raleigh b/b shell is 67mm measuring the width with outer bearing bottom bracket outside to outside is 92mm.
http://www.xxcycle.com/bottom-bracket-stronglight-jp-400-al-bsc,,en.php
i think i'll go wih this by the time i buy spa's own brand and 3 rings it probably will cost as much.
besides that price from xxcycles is not bad.
The Stronglight bottom bracket is one of those superior Kinex that I'm always going on about, with just a Stronglight label stuck on. I had a couple and they were superb. But it only makes sense to order up one of those if you're also ordering your cranksset from XX, otherwise it works out cheaper to get a Shimano BB from CRC, because they give Irish cyclist free delivery.
I have no idea what axle width your BB should have. What you want to do is line up the middle chainring with the middle of the rear cluster, so that under all circumstances your chain runs at the smallest angle. So the width of the rear cluster on the hub is the determining factor. If you're changing that as well, you must do it first so you have a datum for measuring/calculating.
Andre Jute
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Well i just ordered from SJS the newer triple impact and jp400 115 bottom bracket, price with postage £108 /i did try spa for the cheaper version but for some reason the credit card would not work ::)
then went to xxcycles but they wanted zip codes and what have you, ::) we dont have zip or postal code in ireland.so i got fed up trying to fill in the form went with sjs besides i got my first choice of crankset ad i have an account there.
only reason i didnt go with sjs in first place is postage charges mind you having said that it wasn't to bad this time.
will report back on the preformance of the new crankset when ever i get it on the road.
chers
anto.
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Well i just ordered from SJS the newer triple impact and jp400 115 bottom bracket, price with postage £108 /i did try spa for the cheaper version but for some reason the credit card would not work ::)
then went to xxcycles but they wanted zip codes and what have you, ::) we dont have zip or postal code in ireland.so i got fed up trying to fill in the form went with sjs besides i got my first choice of crankset ad i have an account there.
only reason i didnt go with sjs in first place is postage charges mind you having said that it wasn't to bad this time.
will report back on the preformance of the new crankset when ever i get it on the road.
chers
anto.
Yeah, often it doesn't cost all that much more just to get the best of the right thing from the right people.
I've long wanted a Kuretake No 13, a Japanese Kanji brush built into a fountain pen, but resisted paying €50 plus for something that costa the equivalent of €12 in Tokyo department stores. Of course, I've long since spent more than €50 on inadequate makeshifts (though now I'm an expert on the Kuretake No 22 manga brush, which is too big and ugly to carry in my pocket, but that's a different sort of gain) and days just windowshopping the real thing. €50 buys less than two minutes of my time... I should just have ordered the thing when I first decided it was the only tool for a particular piece of art I want to make.
Those postcode thingies that they demand you fill in will usually accept 0000, or more zeroes, or the county name as in COCORK or CO CORK. Flipping menace though, those one-size-fits-all programmers who frustrate you when you want to buy something.
But what really gets my goat is the idiots who think I'll buy anything from them if they won't tell me what carriage costs before I am committed to the purchase.
Give us a link to the actual crankset you bought so. There're are only about 3000 variations of these cranksets.
Andre Jute
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But what really gets my goat is the idiots who think I'll buy anything from them if they won't tell me what carriage costs before I am committed to the purchase.
Agreed! Add the hassle of putting in the item and registering just to find final costs -- and then taking it all out again in disgust -- and those retailers make my short list of rejects very quickly indeed.
Best,
Dan. (...who likes to know his costs up-front)
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http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/stronglight-impact-triple-chainset-silver-48-38-28t-prod18493/
nice or what ;)
hopefully i'll get it next week and with my new wheels cxp33 36 hole 9 speed i should be away in a hack .
dont think i'll bother just yet changing the cassette of rear wheel just yet, i think i have a 25 on there so enough gear to get me out of any bother.
not just a pretty face i'll have you know ,if i can get my raleigh running super smooth i'm gonna load up the barley and start gettin some long spins in, i'm going to be doing a 200km audax at the end of july ::) 2 of my friends (i have three) are coming along might not have any friends after this . ;D.
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Very nice indeed. I like the looks of that crank better than the other one in the Impact line, and I'll tell you a secret, it is fundamentally stronger too, because it is cold-forged, whereas the other one is hot-forged,
Andre Jute
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;) going to try it all out shortly Andre bit of luck i''ll have it during the week if sjs get there finger out ;D ;D,just hope that bottom bracket is the right size .
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I too am a fan of the Spa cycles/sugino triple. Just fitted one to my wife's Trek hybrid.
Getting the correct BB can be a leap of faith. The Spa triple (the £35 one) requires 110mm. The existing one on my wife's bike (Shimano basic steel triple) is 122mm. Seems a big difference to me, however .... I ordered the 110mm version, even though instinct thought it should be longer.
Measuring the chainline was surprisingly easy. There's a screw in the underside of the BB shell which holds the plastic cable guide in place - smack bang in the middle of the shell. To my great surprise, the Spa triple fitted to the 110mm axle has the same chain line as the Shimano with 122mm axle.
All hunky dory except for one thing. When on the big chainring, the rear of the front changer cage just clips the crank. Only by a couple of mm, but enough to be annoying. Closer inspection shows the front changer cage (a cheap one) to be fairly wide. So I guess a longer axle might have allowed the crank to clear the cage at the expense of a less than optimum chain line.
Although recommended BB lengths are based on chainset design, they must be affected to some extent by frame design too? (tube thickness for example).
I sorted my wife's bike by judicious use of Molegrips. But I didn't tell her that.
ian
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Got an email from john at spa this morning ,he was being very helpfull in recomminding what size cranks i need and maybe a different chainset,i had to eat humble pie and explain i went with sjs ooops. :-[
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great stuff chainset winging its way to me thanks sjs. ;)
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All hunky dory except for one thing. When on the big chainring, the rear of the front changer cage just clips the crank. Only by a couple of mm, but enough to be annoying. Closer inspection shows the front changer cage (a cheap one) to be fairly wide. So I guess a longer axle might have allowed the crank to clear the cage at the expense of a less than optimum chain line.
Surely you could sort that problem by adjusting the outer limit screw.
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not if the bottom bracket is the wrong lenght. :o
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Surely you could sort that problem by adjusting the outer limit screw.
That was the first thing I tried.
I checked on the Sheldon Brown website and it makes the comment that fatter tubed bikes (MTB/Hybrids) may need a longer axle than steel frames because the front changer cage will be stick out further. Should have read that first.
So I assume the Spa/Sugino recommended axle length of 110mm is based on a steel frame.
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Hi
Your BB will be all ok! But if you can not adjust your front Derailleur change it to a MTB one which will work far better.
You are always better off running the shortist BB you can get away with. My Middleburn RS7 cranks say to fit them with a 113 BB axle! I use a 107 BB axle and all is good.
(Note on my new Big Dummy I have to run it with a 122 BB? Because the long long chain hits the back tyre!)
Find a good Bike Mech to look at you Bike if you can not work it out >:( Not a Nutcase like on that Youtube clip!
I know there is only a few good Bike Mech left in the world because too many people are shopping on line!
Sorry its time to go riding in the rain :)
Pete . . 8)
Note: I leaned How to drive a 18 speed roadranger Truck gearbox watching YouTube :o with No Clutch 8)
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Hi Ian!
I feel your pain...getting the right replacement bottom bracket for the ideal chainline with a new crankset is sometimes a bit of a black art; so much depends on the offset of the spider from the crank arm itself -- and the individual bike and all the parameters related to it -- tube diameter, the width of the chainstays behind the BB, knobby tire clearance; the factors are myriad.
It sure isn't any fun ordering multiple bottom brackets in the hope of getting it right.
I usually do one of two things:
• If I already have a crankset and the chainline is correct -- and I wish to replace that crankset and bottom bracket with a new one of different design -- then I measure the BB length I have, take the difference with the new (recommended BB/crankset combo) and then I know the offset of the crank arm/spider compared to what I have and can use that information to choose the right BB spindle length.
• If I am going for new and have never fitted a BB or crankset before, then things get iffy in a hurry. Sometimes, as a double-check, I'll rob one of the crank/bb sets I own and test fit it, checking chainline to see how much it is off and how much shorter or longer the BB would need to be, then do the subtraction route to determine the offset on a new crank and hone in on what I need from there.
As for measuring chainline, it sure helps to have a wheel of the proper axle spacing ready to hand with the necessary cassette or freewheel already mounted. That takes care of the rear and you can choose which cogs you wish to optimize for chainline. I dearly love(d) half-step and granny gearing (say, 50/45/24 and 5-speeds or 48/45/24 and 7-speeds), and found it optimal to set things up so the split between middle and high chainrings on my triple crank hit the dead-center of my cogset. The innermost ("granny gear") would only be used with the bottom 3 or so cogs anyway, so it was pointless to set the triple crankset up so things aligned with the middle ring. With careful selection, my most-used gearing combinations all had near-perfect chainlines with little deflection and so were very long-lived. It also meant most of the dealer, online vendor, and factory chainline recommendations were out the window for my needs.
To measure chainline the easy way, just measure from the right side of the seat tube to the desired point on the crank, then add half the seat tube diameter to get to the "center". It sure helps when one doesn't have a bolt placed dead-center for reference (lucky you! ;) I was never that fortunate :-\ ).
Where things get really wooly is the way manufacturers report their BB spindle lengths. Some spindles are of equal length on each side, while others vary left-to-right...but only overall length is reported. This can really upset the apple-cart. I always check the manufacturer's site first and if the information is not there, then the email contacts begin so I can be assured of getting the right length. Most manufacturers are very pleased to help and even seem a little flattered by the interest. It is to their benefit to get a good fit and happy customer as well.I guess a longer axle might have allowed the crank to clear the cage at the expense of a less than optimum chain line...I sorted my wife's bike by judicious use of Molegrips.
This may have been the best you could hope for with this particular derailleur/crank/BB combo, Ian, so a "well done" from me. Adding length to the right side of the spindle likely wouldn't have helped, as the cage would still have to center over the large 'ring and the space between the spider and back side of the crankarm is sparse. This was he bane of my existence when I tried to pair old T/A Cyclotouriste and Sronglight 49D crankarms with the newer wide-cage front mechs that came out on the 1980s. Sometimes, I had to mill a small groove on the backside of the arm to pick up the millimeter or two of needed clearance. :-\ And...sometimes, a person can rotate the front mech around the seat tube a smidge and come out alright as well.
Best,
Dan. (...who used to shorten and re-weld front mech cages when he made his own compact 38/34/16, 13-34 drivetrains in the late-'70s/early-'80s using freewheel cogs as innermost chainrings)
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Dan. (...who used to shorten and re-weld front mech cages when he made his own compact 38/34/16, 13-34 drivetrains in the late-'70s/early-'80s using freewheel cogs as innermost chainrings)
Dan - now why am I not surprised by this?
My wife has just returned from a 20km test run and reports no undue scraping or other sick drivetrain noises. So I'll live with the 110mm axle.
ian
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That was the first thing I tried.
I checked on the Sheldon Brown website and it makes the comment that fatter tubed bikes (MTB/Hybrids) may need a longer axle than steel frames because the front changer cage will be stick out further. Should have read that first.
So I assume the Spa/Sugino recommended axle length of 110mm is based on a steel frame.
If you can't adjust the outer limit screw so that cage doesn't hit the crank whilst still changing smoothly. It would seem that the problem is with the cage not the bottom bracket, the problem would likely be the same with a longer bottom bracket i.e. either smooth change with interference or no interference but not smooth change.
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Crankset arrieved this morning looks class thanks sjs talk about being on the ball ;)
ok i have bb fitted crankse fitted so far so goob, just fit peddals and then a test run fingers crossed its spot on. ;)
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Hi All!
Jags emailed me some photos of the crank and finished installation, which I have posted for him as a composite below.
It surely looks nice, and it is great to see it installed on bike rather than just in product photos. A very clean design, I'd say, and one that blends in nicely with most bikes. I can see it looking very nice on, say, an Audax. I see you've changed the rear derailleur as well, and it appears everything went together fine with the internal BB. Does the chainline look good?
Please let us know if you run into any snags in use. The appearance is fantastic and should be just what you were seeking to lower your gearing that little bit as desired. May you ride it in good health (and recover soon from your present cold)!
Best,
Dan.
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Thanks Dan yeah all went well,on the bike stand all is running smooth didn't get a chance to road test it though i'm as sick as a dog :'(.
but yeah delighted with the new crankset suits the bike as its more retro if thats the right word .have to say great service from sjs thanks lads.
now to clean up the tiagra crankset and sell it on if i get 50 euro for it i'll be happy.. ;)
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Very nice looking jags.
Real class
Andy
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Cheers Andy well couldn't hold back much longer sick or not just done 6 miles to see if all was well.
very happy runs like clockwork ,so when i put on the new lighter wheels it should make the world of difference,i'll keep the sherpa for touring.
thanks for all the help lads greatly appreciated.
cheers
jags.
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but yeah delighted with the new crankset suits the bike as its more retro if thats the right word .have to say great service from sjs thanks lads.
Verra nice. Just went down to check the cranks are still on my bike...
I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.
Andre Jute
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might even change the middle 38 ring to a nice 36 but not just yet. ;)
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I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.
Andre,
A nice, two-part catalyzing acrylic would do, Andre...or simply baking enamel for a long, long time. The latter works nicely with black finishes. I've had good luck with both over the years.
Shimano paint their high-end MTB cranks now. A real adjustment for someone like me, who had previously equated "quality" with a nice polished or anodized surface treatment. I love my "galaxy black" Shimano Deores on the Nomad...even to the little silver metalflakes that show in bright sunlight.
Related threads elsewhere linked here:
http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/366843/any-black-shimano-crankarms-or-paint-them
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=3967900;
http://gearinches.com/blog/how-to/polished-crankset
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/521929-Painting-chainrings-cranks
http://forums.mtbr.com/general-discussion/best-way-paint-cranks-552231.html
http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=17024763
Best,
Dan. (...who has painted, polished, milled, and engraved a number of cranks over the years with good results...but has yet to anodize one)
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Hi All!
Jags emailed me some photos of the crank and finished installation, which I have posted for him as a composite below.
It surely looks nice, and it is great to see it installed on bike rather than just in product photos. A very clean design, I'd say, and one that blends in nicely with most bikes. I can see it looking very nice on, say, an Audax. I see you've changed the rear derailleur as well, and it appears everything went together fine with the internal BB. Does the chainline look good?
Please let us know if you run into any snags in use. The appearance is fantastic and should be just what you were seeking to lower your gearing that little bit as desired. May you ride it in good health (and recover soon from your present cold)!
Best,
Dan.
Hi Dan is that front derailleur a little high?
Pete ???
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I've been wondering about painting mine in the same colour as the bike.
Andre Jute
Hi Andre Jute
I have over the years had good luck with getting things reanodized to match up colours on Motocross Bikes (motorbikes that is!)
All the best.
Pete . . . 8)
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Hi Dan is that front derailleur a little high?
Hi Pete!
I didn't do the installation (just posted the photos), but jags reports good luck with it and smooth shifting and operation. Part of it could be camera angle or the geometry of the front mech's parallelogram.
Generally, I prefer the bottom edge of my front derailleur's cage to clear the top of the large chainring by ~1mm at the closed part of its swing, allowing for chainring and BB spindle runout. When the derailleur cage is centered on the large 'ring, then clearance is much greater, or course.
When I had my Sherpa, I noticed Thorn had set up my front derailleur with considerably more clearance (necessitated so the derailleur mounting clamp could clear the seat tube bottle boss) and to my surprise, all worked out very nicely with extremely reliable, crisp, and clean front shifting with no overshifts or chain spills -- functionally perfect. I've noticed more front derailleurs on recent bikes sitting "high" compared to older standards, and they seem to work fine also. Perhaps it has something to do with the shifting pins and ramps on modern front chainrings and the shaped and contoured cages on current front derailleurs, designed to work with indexed shifting. I know my old, plain 'rings and flat-cage front mechs designed in the days of friction shifting weren't so tolerant and needed tight clearances to work as reliably.
All the best,
Dan.
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Thank you so much, Dan and Pete. I'll have to study those links. We have local platers who can handle an anodizing job but they are hemming and hawing about the color, which is a non-RAL green...
Andre Jute
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Hi Pete!
I didn't do the installation (just posted the photos), but jags reports good luck with it and smooth shifting and operation. Part of it could be camera angle or the geometry of the front mech's parallelogram.
Generally, I prefer the bottom edge of my front derailleur's cage to clear the top of the large chainring by ~1mm at the closed part of its swing, allowing for chainring and BB spindle runout. When the derailleur cage is centered on the large 'ring, then clearance is much greater, or course.
When I had my Sherpa, I noticed Thorn had set up my front derailleur with considerably more clearance (necessitated so the derailleur mounting clamp could clear the seat tube bottle boss) and to my surprise, all worked out very nicely with extremely reliable, crisp, and clean front shifting with no overshifts or chain spills -- functionally perfect. I've noticed more front derailleurs on recent bikes sitting "high" compared to older standards, and they seem to work fine also. Perhaps it has something to do with the shifting pins and ramps on modern front chainrings and the shaped and contoured cages on current front derailleurs, designed to work with indexed shifting. I know my old, plain 'rings and flat-cage front mechs designed in the days of friction shifting weren't so tolerant and needed tight clearances to work as reliably.
All the best,
Dan.
Hi Dan
No the STD set up is still 1 to 2mm on all the new derailleurs and Designs made. So the one you have seen where just set up bad!
There are too few good Cycle Mech's around in the World today! Yes its sad but true :(
If more people would shop at there LBS (yes there only a few good ones left) I would have a full time Job at my LBS.
All good I'm trying to find a Linehaul Truck Driving Job! Good pay! To save for my up coming World Cycle Ride... ;D
Pete . . . 8)
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good spot Pete you know your more than likely correct in the derailleur is a bit high going from a 50 to 48 but its changing perfect so you know the old sayng if it aint broke dont fix it.
so 'm gonna leave it for the time being.
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good spot Pete you know your more than likely correct in the derailleur is a bit high going from a 50 to 48 but its changing perfect so you know the old sayng if it aint broke dont fix it.
so 'm gonna leave it for the time being.
Hi Jags
So yes them it is a little too high! But if it is changing OK for you and your all OK with it then I can live with that.
Happy Cycling
Pete 8)
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just phoned the bikeshop still no wheel ready for me i gave it to them last friday crap service.
i will wait until i get it then fine tune everything.
going out now for a spin around the boyne valley plenty of hills so a good tect for new crankset. ;)