Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Member's Gallery => Topic started by: sg37409 on May 21, 2013, 11:17:31 PM
-
A lot of components on my very nice thorn audax were pretty worn. The paint work has definitely seen better days and I think the time has come for a respray / renovation. I could have patched it up but just fancied a change as much as anything, the limited edition paint job is a bit dated. Was thinking orange with black forks, but that might be another scheme which may date. (oh well, can always do the same again in another 14 years)
I bought this new in 1998. It's been very well used since.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2805/8769989623_4d1c9f4cd5_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/8769991199_ed58b4b3e9_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/8769992443_3f47bca69f_c.jpg)
-
Yes your bike is looking for a little Love.
It will look like new again once you repaint it.
:-*
Pete 8)
-
Nice looking bike.
May I ask about the front hub?
-
Its a shimano dyno-hub / hub generator. Nice piece of kit, a lot cheaper than SON hub generators, and just as good.
Allows fit&forget lighting system.
-
http://www.paulusquiros.co.uk/#/super-randonneur/4575158489
seen this stunning looking bike on cyclechat the colour is fantastic.
best of luck with the facelift . ;)
cheers
jags.
-
Mmm. Given in the light that I'm not a roadie and don't have the faintest idea what an audax bike "should look like" today...
I think your bike looks like a class act, and next I start wondering if it wouldn't be possible to refresh or duplicate that paintwork to keep the bike "authentic". That may also add to its financial value, though very likely far less than a tricky paint job like that would cost.
But then again, what do I know about road bikes? I ride a bike with somewhat wavery gold coachlines painted by an 89 year-old.
Andre Jute
-
Hi Steve!
My, what a well-used bike and much-loved, I'm sure. Evidence of good times together and some real Adventures in all-weather. And, still a real beauty! Was thinking orange with black forks
Would seeing this example help for the orange part? http://customframebuilding.ellisbriggscycles.co.uk/images/ellis_briggs_randonneur_special_big.jpg
...or, in a bolder Merckx-style Molteni burnt-orange with some white panels: http://forum.ctc.org.uk/userpix/164_IMG_0059_2.jpg
Here, someone mixed green with their orange, an unexpected combination: http://s51.photobucket.com/user/tombudd/media/001-8.jpg.html
A nice Thorn-based variation on your original: http://roadcyclinguk.com/wp-content/uploads/old_images/news/images/IMGP1643.jpg
My favorite rando bike is blue/blue, but there's many combinations and colors that look good for this style bike. if I were to have a rando/Audax bike painted, I'd be sorely tempted to consider the color of French green marine (illite) clay (argile verte illite). It is close to this in shade:
(wet) http://www.sz-promo.com/cn-img/843/849cnal1/french-green-reflective-glass-yrg-fgrg8011-291.jpg
(dry) http://suvens.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/French-Green-Clay.jpg
Whatever you choose, it'll look terrific, Steve; your bikes always look great!
Best,
Dan.
-
The ctc forum link is very like the bike of an acquaintance of mine: I couldnt find the posting it was linked from, do you have that Dan ? Im curious to see if its his.
I like the mercian colour scheme best, but dont have decals for the panels.
thanks for these , Dan
-steve
-
The ctc forum link is very like the bike of an acquaintance of mine: I couldnt find the posting it was linked from, do you have that Dan ? Im curious to see if its his.
Hi Steve; sure do: http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=18006
I think I'd cast a vote in favor of this sort of definite, dark Molteni orange. Sometimes, a lighter orange when combined with black doesn't come off so well, but it really depends on how it is executed. Contrasting panels give an old-school, period touch that can look nice if a more classic appearance is a goal.I like the mercian colour scheme best, but dont have decals for the panels.
I was initially a bit repulsed by the green with orange combo, but on reflection, find it appealing. It is different and interesting, and "ponders" nicely as a complete piece.
Steve, it is very easy to make transfers or decals of your own for use on bicycles. I've done it with good success. Here -- I've made a custom Google search on how to do so: http://tinyurl.com/pthe9t5
If you're wet-painting, then it is easy to cover, protec, and seal the decals (either water-transfer, solvent-transfer, or plotter-vinyl stickers) with a compatible clear coat. If your frame is newly powdercoated, then options for protecting the decals are somewhat more limited but still possible in many cases (vinyl and many homegrown materials most won't stand the heat-setting of a clear powdercoat...but others can). Gotcha covered on those issues with another custom Google search here: http://tinyurl.com/o6fg8rx
Steve, if I may suggest, a repaint is the perfect time to consider painting your name on the frame as well. Jags did this with his Raleigh, and it surely does personalize the bike and can look very tasteful. It does make resale more problematic -- bad if the sale is deliberate or very, very good if the bike has been stolen and might prevent a theft.
Best,
Dan.
-
I have seen a few companies offering name (and flag) decals. I will order a couple of thorn decals although I'll struggle to get one of these I think.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3776/8983852401_846cb330cf_c.jpg)
Meantime, I've stripped it right back and saved off the bits. Will replace some, but on reflection, I'll stick with the bar-end changers. I will revert to a square taper b/b, and a few other "retro" bits and pieces. Frame will go for a respray soon.....
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5442/8983853567_bf6734e50d_c.jpg)
-
I will order a couple of thorn decals although I'll struggle to get one of these I think.
I think so, too! In the States such careful and individual tube selections by a custom builder are called a "supermix" tube selection. Frame will go for a respray soon...
Ohhh, Man...not even a hint as to final color? ;D
Bst,
Dan. (...who is eager to see the finished result and already knows it will look terrific)
-
Can't wait to see this i'm still dreaming about my new blue gloss thorn audax. ::)
-
Other things getting in the way of updating this thread. Got my frame back and its a very nice job, but a bit brighter in the flesh than I'd anticipated. Its nicer in the daylight, these pics dont really do it justice.
Been building it this week, and thoroughly enjoying the build. Not much to beat messing around in the garage building up a bike from nice clean parts. I've opted for reusing many parts, but cables will be new.
(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2842/9539738015_1d2836b999_c.jpg)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3675/9539739083_2dcf0d385a_c.jpg)
-
Wow what a paint job fantastic fair play to the painter he sure got it spot on.
did he have to strip it back to bare metal. do you mind me asking how much.
fantastic enjoy every pedal stroke.
-
Well, Steve, the results are just fantastic -- the bike looks *so* nice in its new livery!
Truly, from all appearances it could be a new frame, right off the rack at Thorn. Interesting choice for the black fork blades and head tube -- it "flows" very well and results in a nicely integrated look.
What a pleasure to see, and very kid of you to share the results with us. Hoping we'll see a final shot or two of this lovely frame all built-up once again.
All best wishes for many happy rides ahead,
Dan.
-
I love the new colours.....many congratulations. I hope you have many more '000s of miles of fun.
Fraser
-
It was £170 I think. For this I
1. Had to strip all parts off, including b/b and headset.
2. Package it in a framebox I got from my local bike shop (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24775321@N02/8644372265/)
3. Specified orange frame and black forks, also black headtube.
What I liked about this service from Bob Jackson Cycles is
1. The did the lug work on headtube without being asked
2. The preserved the headtube badge without being asked (no charge)
3. Their collection / delivery was spot on.
4. They strip it back to bare metal. Their website gives details of the process.
Its a very nice job, not perfect in a few places that only a pedant owner would spot. I had no problem with the 4 weeks it took start to finish.
Recommended.
-
thanks for that worth the wait me thinks. 8)
-
Rebuild done. A couple of wee test rides out the glen and back. Smooth and speedy.
Spec:
Dura-Ace 9 speed bar-end shifters
Shimano 600 brake levers
Tiagra r.mech with new jockey wheels
De-ore LX f.mech. Ancient, but works fine
Stronglight chainset, 34/46 with TA rings
Ultegra 9sp cassette, 14-25
Open-Pro rims,, on mavic 501 f.hub, shimano XT r.hub
Rolls saddle - ancient
Cinelli XA stem - ancient
Cinelli ergo bars, narrow as I could get 38cm outsides - ancient
pretty old shimano long-drop brakes
New cables (shimano), chain (sram)
...and...... splashed out on schwalbe ultremo 28 tyres
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/9579464412_7853fabd1e_c.jpg)
-
My! What a stellar buildup and freshening, Steve!
Looks new "and then some".
What a treat to see; thanks so much for the followup; looking forward to seeing more photos of this restored bike on the road.
Best,
Dan.
-
CLASS enjoy.
-
Few more random pics from recently.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/16181079251_64abefaf21.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qDSg82)Mugdock (https://flic.kr/p/qDSg82) by sg310 (https://www.flickr.com/people/24775321@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7505/16182962515_8b5092f441.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qE2UX6)Twechar (https://flic.kr/p/qE2UX6) by sg310 (https://www.flickr.com/people/24775321@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/16308765741_26fb9838c4.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qR9FSe)Cold day on the Crow (https://flic.kr/p/qR9FSe) by sg310 (https://www.flickr.com/people/24775321@N02/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/16123181400_858fd4a730.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qyKw7d)Sunshine and Snow on the Crow (https://flic.kr/p/qyKw7d) by sg310 (https://www.flickr.com/people/24775321@N02/), on Flickr
-
Very nice assortment, Steve, and some lovely countryside and bikes! Lovin' on the colors you chose for the resprays; they're standing the test of time.
All the best,
Dan.
-
Cleaning it the other day, I noticed the mudguard bridge looked a bit rusty below the paint. It was not exactly smooth prior to getting the re-spray.
I prodded it lightly with a screwdriver and it just collapsed. The rot looks confined to this bridge. What to do ? (I had noticed the handling wasnt exactly secure on fast bumpy downhills any more, perhaps co-incidence)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5466/17614883641_be99b0b410_z.jpg)
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5448/17588531166_93ce59b03b_z.jpg)
-
Wow, that is a really horrible picture! I hope the trouble really is narrowly bounded along with the fix! That sure is the kind of situation one tries to avoid if at all practical! But sometimes it just happens anyway!
-
Oh! What a bad break, Steve -- literally!
I think this is a classic case of rust-out caused by water getting inside the chainstay bridge and then remaining there.
The good news is, replacing a chainstay bridge is very easy for a framebuilder and the cost for such a repair is modest. The heat of brazing will toast the paint on the stays, requiring a local repaint of the area or a complete respray.
My one concern would be whether the rust has migrated into the chainstays. It is possible, so it might pay to probe gently with the end of a screwdriver, now the bridge is half open.
Even if the chainstays have been compromised, it is possible to make a patch -- essentially a lug overlay, as with reinforced bottle bosses -- and then braze a new bridge to that. I've done so myself on past bikes, and the repair came out well. If it were me, I'd definitely save the frame by going with a replacement bridge with or without reinforcement.
Such a pity this became evident so soon after your cracking-great orange repaint, Steve. If only it had been evident before the respray, it could have been replaced then, but...well, such is Life sometimes.
Best,
Dan.
-
Steve,
Going back and looking at your first photo in your initial post in 2013 here...
http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=6525.msg39545#msg39545
...I feel sure the rust inside the bridge must have been present prior to the repaint. There sure is a lot of bubbling 'round it on the outside. If the bike had been run without a rear mudguard or bolt in the lower-rear fender mount, then it would be easy to see how water might get inside. It seems less likely if the bolt has plugged the hole, so once repaired, it should be good for a long time.
I see Bob Jackson guarantee their resprays for 12 months ( http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/resprays.php ). Their described procedure shows careful preparation prior to paint. This rust in the bridge seems awfully advanced for 21 months. Maybe they missed it? On the other hand, it might have looked acceptable at the time and just went deeper into the steel after they saw it. If they didn't probe downward through the open braze-on, I doubt it could have been seen as the external bead-blasting would have cleaned up the outside nicely.
I realize yours is past that 12-month window, but it might be possible Jackson would give you a discounted rate on repairs and another respray. I think I'd risk asking to see what they say in reply. Their pricelist for repairs is here: http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/repairs_pl.php
All the best,
Dan.
-
Steve
If all else fails let me know. I have an Audax of the same era and spec and it looks like it is the same size. I have decided to move it on to make room in the Garage for an xTc and if it was going to a good home would be happy to strip it down and just sell the frame and forks for a good price. I know once you are happy with how bike feels it is hard to write it off and change to something different.
Andy
-
Thanks guys. A further look this morning, yes, the chainstays are also perforated :-(
Going to talk to Bob Jackson on a repair / respray deal.
Andy: Thanks for kind offer, but I think I'll go down the repair route first of all.