Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Rohloff Internal Hub Gears => Topic started by: 6527richardm on February 28, 2012, 06:32:55 PM
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I am about to change the oil for the first time. When I spoke to some at Thorn they said that I did not need to use Loctite when i replace the plug.
All of the other information I have looked at suggests that I do any advice on this would be welcome.
Also I am unsure exactly what purpose the Loctite will serve can you help.
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Hi All,
Piggybacking on Richard's question...do any of you use PTFE (Teflon) plumber's tape in this application? It would seem ideal for this use, preventing galling yet allowing for a good seal and high vibration resistance. I always had good luck with it on AN hose fittings for race cars. Five complete wraps was the usual rule of thumb, each drawn tight over the layer below.
Best,
Dan.
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Richard/Dan,
I must have done a few oil changes by now, nearly always reusing the old drain plug and have only used loctite once.
I have yet to see any oil leak from that point.
I have once seen advice to let the loctite dry before replacing the plug since wet loctite getting into the hub innards could pose a problem.
Julian.
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Hi, the use of loctite is almost useless unless you go to the extreme of degreasing the old oil plug and the internal threads of the plug hole. loctite 243 or similar requires an oil free surface to bond to, the very place thats just been covered in oil....
Ptfe, is the better option (if) you can guarantee not to let any stray strands go into the hub as this will cause further problems down the line.
As Ive pointed out in earlier posts an oil change can be done through the sprocket oil seal when the sprocket is removed Ive done this a few times and it works great with no need to use the messy syringe method and making sure the oil plug is leak free.
Julian your right about letting the loctite dry before use "but" the trouble with most loctite adhesives are they are anaerobic which means they will only cure in the absence of air and the pre cured loctite you see on some commercially supplied bolt only comes in bulk packs and requires quite a process to apply and cure dry.
However as most people have found the use of a sealing adhesive is not really required as the plug once seated tends to do a good job of just that.
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I have in the past used thread lock but for the last few changes I haven't bothered. I have yet to see any sign of galling on this thread probably because of its oily nature!
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Dave, you wisely cautioned...
Ptfe, is the better option (if) you can guarantee not to let any stray strands go into the hub as this will cause further problems down the line.
:o Yeah, that would mitigate against PTFE for me in this application, and should for others. Imagine any little strands of it getting chewed into the works. Horrors. The stuff doesn't shear in oil, it balls up and gums the works (please don't ask how I know this; people are known to suppress traumatic memories... ;)).
Best,
Dan.
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Dd my first oil change recently, used a new plug that came with kit , the threads were already coated with the kind of seal found on shimano threads which I've always assumed was a kind of loctite. Wouldnt bother with ptfe tape.
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I have to say I am baffled by this topic and its previous incarnations, i.e. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM laying out £1.99 a year for a new drain plug? ???
And this from a Scot where we have a reputation for being tight with money :o
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I've done 4 oil changes now, still using the original plug with no loctite or tape. It's a (relatively) long threaded plug and pinched up tight it stays put and can so easily be checked occassionally.
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I'm also baffled by this topic. I just got a new Nomad and ordered an oil change kit with it. I haven't yet performed an oil change, but the oil change kit came with a new grub screw (with some white coating on the threads, as mentioned by sg37409) and I intend to use that new screw when I do perform an oil change. Why would anyone want to reuse the old screw rather than the new screw? Maybe some Rohloff oil change kits don't include this screw?
I am far less worried about leaks than stripping the threads in the hub somehow, or clogging them with Loctite and PTFE tape so as to cause some sort of damage.
I covered my screw with a piece of black duct tape (not sure what the name for that is in Britain) which is completely inconspicuous on my black hub. This will (a) stop the screw from coming undone; (b) keep the screw clean and dry.
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To those who do not understand this topic,
There are some amongst us (me included) who have purchased oil in bulk.
When refilling the hub with this much cheaper oil we use our retained syringes and reuse the filler plug.
I do spend money on my bike, just not on the individual oil filler kits.
Julian.
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I have bought/used the oil change kit 2 years running, so now have 2 syringes - one for dirty oil and one for clean oil, hopwever in future I will only buy oil,
The next time I buy anything from SJSC I will add in 5 or 10 new filler plugs - problem solved for years to come. ;D
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The next time I buy anything from SJSC I will add in 5 or 10 new filler plugs
Jim, this sounds the ideal solution, and how much space could a spare cap or two take in the spares sack? I have done much the same with Sherpa, tucking in a spare Problem Solvers emergency derailleur hanger. Small, light, it's unnoticed unless I need it and then I'll be glad I have it. Problem solved, indeed! :D
Best,
Dan.
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Thanks to all for the helpful replies.
I have bought the oil change kit and it does include a new drain plug. It seems fairly straight forward to do but I was struggling to see why I needed to use loctite albeit all the instructions I had read suggested i needed it.
Clearly I do not so now you have all eased my mind i will get on with it.
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Dan,
I know what you mean with regards to ptfe i have worked with the stuff in various forms over the past twenty odd years solid, tape, sheet, even a liquid type sealing form, i think they even do a cord now with ptfe impregnated in to it... and like you have also found its failures from time to time.
I have become wise to the various situations that it should be used in and (not).
Julian, I can also echo your thoughts re: the use or non use of loctite as for those asking the questions "why are we even talking about this issue" in respect of the (op) he was merly asking the question should he use it or not and what purpose does it serve.... it had nothing to do with the cost of the drain plug and everything to do with the curiosity of having to use loctite or not and why..
If people don't know, they ask the question, however i still stand my point manually applied loctite or factory cured on the grub screw, unless you degrease the threads to which its being applied it renders the stuff useless.
Dave.
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Julian, I can also echo your thoughts re: the use or non use of loctite as for those asking the questions "why are we even talking about this issue" in respect of the (op) he was merly asking the question should he use it or not and what purpose does it serve.... it had nothing to do with the cost of the drain plug and everything to do with the curiosity of having to use loctite or not and why..
If people don't know, they ask the question, however i still stand my point manually applied loctite or factory cured on the grub screw, unless you degrease the threads to which its being applied it renders the stuff useless.
Dave.
Dave, for the sake of clarity ...
I agree the question was not literally about the cost of a new drain plug, but it was surely part of the bigger question i.e. about how to effectively fit a drain plug as part of the oil change process.
I have only ever seen advice about using Loctite in the context of fitting used drain plugs, taken together with the question relating to the "need to use Loctite when i replace the plug", I made the assumption the opening post was about refitting the original/used drain plug (where application of Loctite is frequently advised).
On that basis, the option of fitting a new drain plug and the cost thereof has everything to do with answering the bigger question (as I interpreted it).
From this thread re-using drain plugs with or without Loctite is the solution of choice for many people (including Julian whose advice I hugely respect, and I also respect your advice about degreasing) but in this case my opinion is new drain plugs are a better solution.
In any case I believe that lateral thinking can be hugely beneficial, if we are to be constrained by the literal wording in the opening post then we would be much the poorer for it. In other words I would never discourage anybody from asking their question, but similarly I would never criticise anybody for approaching the problem from a different angle.
P.S. With hindsight I appreciate that the question may well have been about applying Loctite to a new drain plug, but I made assumptions based on having never heard of such an approach.
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Relayer,
you seem to be confusing the issue totally. The cost of the drain plug was never mentioned by the o/p and nor did I relate the two together.
For your clarity it was yourself whom had become bemused by the question raised and yourself who had put the question forward "WHAT IS THE PROBLEM laying out £1.99 a year for a new drain plug" So I fail to see why you are trying say different.
You start off by saying in your reply to me that the question was not literally about the cost of a new drain plug and yes your right to suggest so as there never was any mention of cost involved it was yourself who put a value cost on the item, then you go on to say but its surely part of the bigger picture, well no it never was a part of the question and was never intended to be.
Then you go on to say "ie: about how effectively to fit a drain plug as part of the oil change process" which is exactly what the o/p was asking nothing to do with the bigger picture derived from another question, that was the exact question being asked... again nothing to do with cost it was yourself whom added the question relating to cost.
you further more suggest that lateral thinking should be used in such cases as it would be beneficial for the forum, which i agree with , what i was pointing out and still stand by my comments is that coming in with comments like " WHATS THE PROBLEM" in big bold letters did not in anyway answer nor give any beneficial comment to the o/p.
You suggest that you would never discourage anybody from asking a question, thats exactly what you did when you said you were "baffled by this topic and its previous incarnations" it would have been more beneficial to let some one answer as to the reasons of using loctite on a used or new drain plug than to suggest to the o/p why he would suggest such a question.
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I suspect that the drain plug can be reused until it leaks oil. I have changed the Rohloff oil only once and used Granville Lock Thread (can be used with oil seals like the Rohloff, no cleaning). Would probably take a couple of extra plugs on a long tour and the Lock Thread. I found it works well and so far no oil leaks ...
http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=150&product=Lockthread+%26amp%3B+Seal&x=16&y=9 (http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=150&product=Lockthread+%26amp%3B+Seal&x=16&y=9)
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expr
I was not bemused by the question at the top of the thread, I was bemused as to why people reuse drain plugs at all when new ones are so cheap. I referred to the topic as a whole (i.e. all posts) and previous threads, at no time did I refer to Richard or his question.
I did not "suggest to the o/p as to why he would suggest such a question" whatever that means, I asked a question - again I did not refer to Richard or his question.
My question was not directly pinned to Richard's question at the top of the thread and if I am to be castigated for going off topic then so be it.
I regret using caps, that was ill-conceived and unnecessary, and if that has upset anybody then I apologise.
My point was/is, if people want to reuse drain plugs and it works for them then that is fine, I find it curious since the cost saving would be a major consideration for me if I ever thought about going down that route, however at £1.99 I will continue use new ones. :)
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I still don't understand what relevance your first input actually gave the o/p, it serves no purpose what so ever to think out loud what your own thoughts are of other peoples questions. If we were to all voice our opinions as the necessity of a question then we would just become a spam forum. Indirectly you are suggesting that the question has no relevance and it boils down to the cost of the item, this for the people who have purchased bulk oil like my self makes no sense at all to purchase further oil change kits. If however people who have gone to the trouble of purchasing bulk oil feel the need or just feel happier changing the plug then so be it. It still doesn't get away from the fact that your initial input has no relevance and questions the o/p as to his and others questions regarding the matter.
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Perhaps I was thinking out loud (point taken), but I was also concerned about people who use Loctite passing this on to others, Dave Whittle of SJSC cautioned on these boards some time ago about Loctite getting into the innards of the hub. Some posters on this thread reusing drain plugs now seem to be going without any sealant at all, this may or may not result in oil leakage but personally I would go for the new plug with dry sealant for added peace of mind - even if it is a belt and braces approach.
What I now suspect is missing and perhaps I can contribute more positively by posting this link is
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rohloff-screw-in-drainplug-for-speedhub-500-14-8205-prod10490/?sessionid=4e275bf21f5cdaae13d19b03da82110b42255f2a
people who have bought oil in bulk would not need to buy further oil change kits, you could buy drain plugs on their own (in bulk to save postage or store with your oil and syringes to avoid future inconvenience).
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Relayer,
your a perfect gent, and the information regarding drain plugs I think we can say is now well thrashed out. The good points as well as the bad, don't forget also if you do go for bulk oil and the amount required is deemed a little to adventurous then you will allways find plenty people who will "share" your delights so to speak in the purchase.
My own personal opinion regarding using loctite would be not to use it in the liquid form IE: loctite 243 or similar due to the fact that it requires an oil free surface to bond to, it requires an amount of time to set, and further more most people find its not a problem as far as leaks are concerned.
I am also going to say, maybe I should have pm'd you regarding the issue, than to discuss it openly on the forum but hey as long as we can all walk away happy then were doing ok. Thanks for the link realyer and your input.
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I did not think that my question would cause such controversy and healthy debate.
I did buy the oil change kit and because I did not realise that it came with the drain plug I also bought one separately which I am sure will prove useful at some point. The reason I asked about the loctite was no more than I could see little or no benefit from applying it but the Roholff manual said to use it. I will not be be applying it and thanks everyone for your helpful advice.
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hey as long as we can all walk away happy then were doing ok.
expr
Thanks for the compliment and I agree 100% with your sentiment above, you also are a perfect gent. I think we cyclists are generally more thoughtful and considerate than our motorised peers, and cyclists on this forum are generally in it for the long run and together we have a fantastic information resource and advice network - and I think with your technical expertise you are a very significant player in this.
Richard
I am so glad you got the answer to your question, but rest assured if you have any future questions 99 times out of 100 you will get great advice on here without any fuss.
I have learned a thing or two from this thread, so am walking away happy ;D
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I've been doing oil changes for 7 years now ;D. I always degrease the plug; degrease the hole with a Q-tip and brake cleaner, then use blue locktite.......but I probably don't need to. ;)
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Well I finally got around to changing the oil and at the same time I also put a new chain on as well and after nearly 1900 miles I think it was time.
The oil change is bit fiddly but overall not too difficult. The only thing that struck me was that if the drain plug was in the middle rather than to one side it would make it easier. Having now done it once it will no doubt be lot more straight forward next time.
Thanks again for all the useful tips.