Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Thorn General => Topic started by: lewis noble on August 10, 2011, 09:29:10 AM
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Hello everyone, I would welcome some observations.
I bought my RT about 5 years ago, when I retired from full-time work. Been delighted with it, love the Rohloff, etc. I was planning to do some long tours, but for a variety of reasons relating to family and continued work never did so, and have never used RT to full potential - a couple of Coast to Coast type rides, day rides (usually 40 - 50 miles or less). Favourite terrain - byways, trails etc., nothing heavy.
Over the last year or so, I have developed arthritis in my wrists and thumb joints, which has led to considerable discomfort when riding, and has been quite discouraging. Has also affected other pastimes (e.g. music) as well. I wondered about getting a lighter 'hybrid' bike with suspension forks - 2 reputable local bike shops advised against this, saying I would not notice the difference on anything other than v. bad surfaces and would lose some degree of control. One bike shop advised something like a Cube hybrid - much lighter than the RT and with sus forks.
I had a long and very helpful chat with Robin Thorn earlier this year - he advised changing to bigger tyres, and replacing the stem to get a more upright position. Both these things have helped - I now run on 2 x 26 Duremes, 35 psi at front and 70 at rear - comfortable, grip well and roll well. And the upright position has helped quite a bit. Robin also advised against sus forks on all but really rough terrain.
But of course I still have a bike which, while it feels superbly stable and comfortable on long downhill runs, takes a fair bit of getting up the hills to get there - I suppose all bikes do!! But I am carrying around a lot of unnecessary weight and still wonder if suspension forks would be more 'comfortable' on wrists and joints.
All comments welcome - thanks.
Lewis
Lewis
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Lewis,
Commiserations on developing arthritis.
I too have moved to 2" tyres and a more upright stem with advancing age and find them more forgiving on the body.
You don't say which handlebars you use - I would try Thorn Comfort bars if possible and with Ergon GP1 grips which require much less hand pressure/grip in my experience.
The only other long term suggestion is to go for a Rohloff recumbent trike, come on Thorn!
Julian.
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Thanks, Julian - yes, others have suggested Ergon grips . . . . .
And a recumbent!! Yes, that had occurred to me too - cost a bit of a problem but a good idea.
Lewis
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Thanks, Julian - yes, others have suggested Ergon grips . . . . .
And a recumbent!! Yes, that had occurred to me too - cost a bit of a problem but a good idea.
Lewis
Out of interest, Thorn did a recumbent some years ago - very small numbers, and before they were involved with Rohloff - I did a blog post on it here: http://paulmor.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/the-rarest-of-all-thorns/ (http://paulmor.wordpress.com/2011/01/26/the-rarest-of-all-thorns/)
I am sure I have seen one being ridden near Cambridge on the A14, with a clear plastic windscreen.
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Lewis
another shout for Ergon grips. My wife suffers with wrist pain and cant cycle with anything other than Ergons - and a upright cycle position. With this modifications she can cycle 70 mile+ per a day without pain.
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I also retired about 5 years ago and bought a thorn xtc. I now ride 3 bikes regularly aiming at 100 miles a week. A Kona mountain bike with air forks disc brakes and ergon grips. this is probably lighter than the xtc but the xtc probably averages a slightly higher speed. The third bike is a carbon trek Madone which surprisingly is the most comfortable and for the same effort much faster. Also drop bars give a variety of hand positions easing any aches by the changes you can make.
I would not expect suspension forks to help with hand and wrist problems they do however help with the effect on overall comfort of a rigid alloy frame
and the disc brakes are by far the best. Consequently this is the bike I ride to the swimming pool in the mornings and for a 12 mile ride after. Longer rides 30 mile plus, I use the xtc or madone depending on the weather. Both absorb a lot of the road vibrations and both have the stems flipped to raise the bars, to ease neck problems.
The xtc is a light tourer and i don't tour because my wife is now unable to cycle. knowing the advantages of a light bike with 700 wheels I am considering changing the xtc for a Thorn Audax. This may be something you could consider, the lighter weight I am sure will be beneficial and if you did not want to try drops could be built with straight bars. Again I would recommend ergon grips perhaps with bar ends to give an alternative grip on longer rides.
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Or, for £20, you could try moustache style bars.
http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/5266/0/fisher_northroad_raised_aluminium_moustache_handlebars/3b96ea126da208e58e167bf6b6787666 (http://www.discountbicycles.co.uk/biz/product.php/5266/0/fisher_northroad_raised_aluminium_moustache_handlebars/3b96ea126da208e58e167bf6b6787666)
That'll give you a much more upright posture, plus your hands will be more fore and aft, your elbows will point down, rather than out, the twistgrip and brakes fit fine. I even managed to fit a pair of stubbies on the curve for a semi-aero position.
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Hello everyone, I would welcome some observations.
I'm a writer, which is manual work on a keyboard. I sit fourteen hours a day. I'm therefore acutely conscious of wrist and back ergonomics. My bike is custom-designed to maximize my comfort. Here are some observations, from what I learned, gradually, in building up three bikes ever more successfully, until now I have no need or desire to change:
1. Forget reducing the weight of the bike. That's racing bicyclist nonsense. The pound or two you save in the total scheme of bike plus rider will be around one per cent, worthless.
2. Start by deciding to sit more upright. Move the saddle back as far as you can to get a more relaxed virtual seat tube angle. Now move the handle bars up and back. This requires a steering tube extender and the shortest stem you can find, or, better still, a short stem with a steep rise or an adjustable angle to give you even more height. North Road bars will give you even more height. You want to move the hands away from the flat bar position past 45 degrees angled from there, and North Road bars will also move your hands back so your forearms lie flatter (elbows pointing to the road, as someone else has already said). You won't be able to pedal as powerfully or ride as fast as you did before, but if the choice before you is giving up cycling altogether or riding more appropriately to your age and condition... (Not meaning to be rude, but some of us are there or approaching that stage.)
3. Go for deep comfort by getting the right parts. First of all, forget hydro-mechanical suspensions. They either don't work except on very rough roads, or they only appear to work, still letting through microvibrations, which is what really kills your wrists and your coccyx. Good ones also cost a fortune. The suspension that works for wrist and hands and backs is old-fashioned low pressure balloon tyres. Of these the best is the Schwalbe Big Apple, and you'll be pleasantly surprised to find that the Light folding version is lighter than the tyres you have now, and equally puncture-proof. There is also a racing weight tube to go in them, Schwalbe Type 19A. I use them on rough lanes in the South of Ireland and have nearly 5000km on my first set without signs of wear, and I've never had a flat. The Big Apples are also powerful roadholders. The Big Apples at the lowest inflation your rims can handle will keep microvibrations from reaching your wrists and your backside. Next, your more upright position requires a Brooks leather saddle considerably wider than the one you sit on now,preferably sprung. I like the B73, which has coil spring front and back.
4. You need ergonomic grips of some kind. I use the edge-on leather ring Brooks grips. I cycle in dress gloves, zero padding. My wrists have stopped hurting at last from the better angle of the north road bars and the small amount of give in the Brooks grips, but probably more from the fact that the Big Apples, the steel frame and the Brooks grips between them deal very effectively with the microvibrations. At the other end of the bike, my bike hasn't sent me to the physio with back pains for ten years now because the Big Apples, the springs of the Brooks saddle and the hammock shape of its leather keep the vibrations out there as well.
5. You might think that all this slows me down. Not so. On my last theoretically fast bike I was slow because I was out of puff a lot as I was too often in pain to ride it much; I hated it. Two intermediate bikes were more comfortable but I hadn't gone the full hog yet and the hard Marathon Plus tyres on them drove too much of the road's inequalities through the suspension into my wrists and backside to put me quite at ease. It was only when I went over to the Big Apple paradigm that I felt so much at ease, and started really liking riding so much, that I was soon fit(ter) and started picking up speed. Those Big Apples are also awesome at speed on the fastest downhills, very secure. Don't let their beach cruiser origins put you off: they're seriously controlled tyres for serious speed freaks. In town I ride off curbs without hesitation, which was never a pleasant option with my bikes with suspended forks.
Hope this helps.
Andre Jute
Visit Jute on Bicycles at
http://coolmainpress.com/BICYCLING.html
PS My Brooks B73 saddle and leather- ring grips are from SJS, which was the only place I could find both in stock in the honey tone I wanted.
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Thanks very much for all these replies - reading them with interest - keep them coming!!
I use Thorn Comfort bars and Thorn cork grips - fine when I got the bike, perhaps not now.
Lewis
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I notice Ergon now make cork versions of the GP1... anyone tried them?
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Lewis,
I have recently put a much higher/shorter stem, more sweptback bars, a wide sprung Brooks Saddle and Ergon cork grips on my wifes bike.
Result - she is now riding with an upright posture and a big smile after not riding for a long time due to pain in wrists, hands and posterior when cycling on the previous setup.
Neil,
The Ergon cork grips are not like the SJS cork grips which are pure cork on the outside. The Ergon grips are a cork/rubber composite which feels very nice and should wear better than pure cork.
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On One Mary bars are decidedly comfortable;I find the extra sweep aligns perfectly with the wrist.
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Reviving this thread from the summer . . . .
Thanks for all the tips. But after lots of trying bigger / softer tyres, revised posture etc etc I have decided to change my RT for decent hardtail with good suspension forks.
What really clinched it was riding my brother's Trek for a spell - no after effects of wrist problems for a while (which has affected other hobbies such as music) and I enjoyed the experience - I will really miss the bomb-proof stability and reliability of the Thorn / Rohloff combo, but think I have made the right choice.
I plan to get a decent trek or Cube - so I will be sprucing up my RT 512L and putting in here soon.
I guess there will be howls of contrary advice - that's what forums are for!! - but actual experience on the saddle, and changed needs / riding, is what has swung it.
Lewis - Sheffield
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You could swap all your RT components over to a Sterling frame and Magura fork and sell just the RT frame. You would have a Rohloff equipped suspension trekking bike.
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Lewis,
So sorry to hear you will need to sell your present Thorn, but it is always better to be able to ride _something_ rather than _nothing_, and sometimes that means making a change. You don't want to incur injuries that affect even your non-cycling life, and so you'll need to make the change that is best for you...whatever that may be.
All support and best wishes your way; 'hope your wrists feel better soon.
Dan.
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Hi Lewis,
You could try something a bit different.
http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk/models/TSR27.html
These are available in a number of models and I'm pretty sure that someone is offering a Rohloff conversion as well.
http://www.foldingbikes.co.uk/moulton_tsr_rohloff_fbspec.htm
I have had a TSR30 for a couple of years and have found it to be very comfortable. The suspension is quite understated compared with MTB style suspension but definitely smooths out vibrations.
The optional separable frame (and cable splitters) can be useful too. I've taken mine on Eurostar and TGV in 2 bags as ordinary luggage.
If you can source one for a test ride, it's worth a go. I'd offer, but I'm in Australia.
Regards,
pj
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Just thought I would bring people up to date. I have sold my Raven Tour to someone who plans to use it on a round the world trip - good luck to him!! And I will be delighted to see it used to nearer the limits of its capabilities.
I decided to buy a decent hardtail, and chose a Cube Acid. I am very pleased with it - riding is less painful, and causes less grief the day after when I used to suffer quite a bit. It handles quite differently from the Thorn - not worse or better, just differently. I will have to get used to the derailleur gears, but I'm sure I will. I swapped the knobbly MTB tyres for Schwalbe Hurricanes, which lowers the gearing a bit, and the range suits me fine - great tyres, by the way. It is comfortable and I am enjoying riding it.
I must emphasise that there was and is nothing wrong with the Thorn products - and I still agree with many of the comments made and reservations expressed about disc brakes, sus forks etc for all except serious MTB riding. And I still reckon that Thorn sells the best and most carefully thought out range of bikes. But we all have to find what suits our changed circumstances.
Danneaux made an interesting comment about fitting things in with non-cycling life. Another major hobby of mine is playing the trombone - quite stressful on hands and wrists because of angles, posture, movement etc. (some would say stressful on the ears as well . . .) and it was getting to the point where I could not do both in the same day. But now I can, and the decent quality sus fork has certainly helped me on the rides I like to do.
So here goes - and good luck to Phil who has bought my Raven.
Lewis
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Lewis,
Thanks so much for the follow-up to let us know how you came out. I am so pleased and happy for you to hear the change of bicycles has been a positive in allowing you to continue riding and to pursue your other interests. Bottom line for us all to take away is one has to get what works best for oneself...and that can change over time as our conditions and circumstances change (just like everything else in Life).
You were surely fair in describing your problem, the outcome, and why the new bicycle has been helpful, and that is all information I will tuck away in my head in the hope it will help someone else with a similar dilemma. For now, I am delighted to hear you're out riding and with less pain and stress. The Cube Acid is a lovely bike in its own right, and I'm sure you'll have many happy miles together. Those Schwalbe Hurricanes are nice, aren't they!
All best wishes; stay safe out there,
Dan.
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...and Phil...let us know as you embark on the round-the-world trip. We want details! Pics, too.
Best,
Dan.
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Since road vibration hasn't gone away and remains a problem for many, here is an interesting study explaining and quantifying how and why vibrational stress due to rough surfaces can impair performance and even sometimes the health of the rider:
Original German version: http://lustaufzukunft.de/pivit/comfort/default.html
English translation: http://lustaufzukunft.de/pivit/comfort/vibration.html
To see study author Rainer Pivit's solution to the problem of vibrational stress:
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?act=url&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://lustaufzukunft.de/pivit/fahrrad/my_bike_engl.html&usg=ALkJrhhCKlBymTUcAPO0Y2bS0CdrEVrkhg
The production version of his bicycle was refined and produced by Dutch custom builder Marten Gerritsen and his partner, Marinus Meijer at M-Gineering outside Groningen, NL. Pics at the above link.
Best,
Dan.
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Very much understand your concern. I am a rheumatologist (USA, associated with the Arthritis Foundation) and also have arthritis at the base of my thumbs (typical for OA). One of the advantages of the Rohloff is that its much easier on this condition than thumb activated gear shifters. I am also wondering if we could fit a lever arm to the Rohloff rotor to make shifting easier so you do not use the joint at the base of the thumb at all. Biking is actually ideal for people with arthritis because it avoids impact on joints. We do need some engineering and design to make it easier for people with arthritis. I will think more about the wrist pain issue. Here you want to avoid positions that are associated with wrist extension. The comfort bars and the Ergon ends are a great advance and maybe we can think of other "ease of use options". Best of luck, John H
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HI John,
Welcome aboard. I'm sorry you are having to deal with arthritis yourself, but I'm also guessing that personal experience -- coupled with your professional expertise -- could benefit those cyclists on the Forum with arthritis. I'm fortunate to have so far escaped it in my hands, but see the effect in my longtime cyclist father, who just sailed past his 94th birthday and has been dealing with the same issues as yourself.
As I replied to OP Lewis earlier in this thread, riding at some level is better than not riding at all, and whatever means it takes to accomplish that is very worthwhile. Cycling is of such great benefit in terms of overall exercise -- and fun, too -- it would be shame to lose out due to any issue like arthritis that could be accommodated in some possible way. I looked at this matter for a friend in a similar situation, and am in the process of making a lever attachment to eliminate the grip needed to rotate his SRAM Grip-Shift twist shifter. Something similar could likely be adapted to the Rohloff shifter. What I have in mind looks a bit like the doorknob adapters marketed to those with arthritic hands...the kind of thing that clamps over a round knob, and requires only downward or upward pressure, eased by the greater moment arm and leverage of the adapter -- no grip required. I have already made another adaptation for a friend who had no problems with her thumbs, but had trouble wrapping her other fingers around the grips. Using a composite molding compound, I made little platforms she could simply lean on and padded them to better distribute weight across her palms, with the brake lever's blade sitting above and just ahead of the handgrip so she can also lean on it to activate the brakes (poor grip strength in her fingers won't allow a standard configuration). At the speeds she rides, weight transfer under braking won't be a problem, and this puts her back in the saddle again.
John...might it be possible for those dealing with arthritis and cycling to occasionally query you on the Forum for suggestions?
Best,
Dan.
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Dan
I would be happy to respond. I can not provide direct medical advice for legal reasons but can address questions of a general nature. Look forward to hearing from you all.
John
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Hi Lewis,
You could try something a bit different.
http://www.moultonbicycles.co.uk/models/TSR27.html
These are available in a number of models and I'm pretty sure that someone is offering a Rohloff conversion as well.
http://www.foldingbikes.co.uk/moulton_tsr_rohloff_fbspec.htm
I have had a TSR30 for a couple of years and have found it to be very comfortable. The suspension is quite understated compared with MTB style suspension but definitely smooths out vibrations.
The optional separable frame (and cable splitters) can be useful too. I've taken mine on Eurostar and TGV in 2 bags as ordinary luggage.
If you can source one for a test ride, it's worth a go. I'd offer, but I'm in Australia.
Regards,
pj
Did someone mention a Rohloff Moulton? :D
I like the bike but it is very, very responsive and thus not my idea of a Touring bike, but should be a good compliment to my upcoming Thorn.
(http://invl.com/uploads/120207-023005.jpg)
(http://invl.com/uploads/120207-023207.jpg)
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oh ... and the other thing to add is that the chain adjustment is simply terrible as the bike is not designed for a Rohloff. I have to say that the way Thorn does it is so well thought out and the use of the cam adjustment was a major factor in my decision to finally get the thorn - the bike I should have gotten in the first place.
The Moulton I should say is a great one of a kind bike - but simply not really meant for a Rohloff. I'm actually thinking of having the hub and dyno built into 26" wheels and move it over to a second Thorn frame, perhaps a small size sterling which my daughter can use when I can afford it. That does seem a bit extravagant, bordering on insane though.
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John, you generously wrote...
I can not provide direct medical advice for legal reasons but can address questions of a general nature.
Outstanding! This has the potential to make cycling life so much easier for those experiencing difficulties of this sort; thank you!
Pavel, you mentioned...the chain adjustment is simply terrible as the bike is not designed for a Rohloff.
By any chance, have you investigated the Phil Wood "Philcentric" retrofit eccentric for conventional bottom brackets? It does require use of an external-bearing BB, but might give you must enough chain take-up to make life a bit easier, though you might still need a half-link. See: http://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/philcentric.php
Now you've done it, reigniting my dormant desire -- no, lust! -- for a space-frame Moulton. I wanted an AM7 achingly badly when it first came out. I finally declined due to the difficulty in finding tires at the (largely pre-Internet, pre-ecommerce) time. I then made a 5-hour drive to Seattle-area Angle Lake Cyclery to test-ride a bright yellow Land Rover-edition Moulton outfitted for trail use with easily-found BMX tires, but the price nearly stopped my heart. Solution was to design and braze-up my own version, based on 20"/406mm wheels; it is nearly done 'cept for a cable stop or two. Still have a soft spot for space-frame Moultons, and yours is a fantastic example. You've done well to manage the chain slack with the swimgarm suspension and no tensioner, Pavel; this is so nicely executed as to look like a factory option, annnnnnd...it appears you've maintained the separability through the use of cable connectors. A really outstanding conversion of an unusual kind.
'Glad for the pics.
Best,
Dan.
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Dan,
Nothing would please me more than to contribute to cycling in some manner. Looking forward to pitching in. I am a long time bike commuter but just getting involved with long distance trips. I just purchased a Thorn Nomad and could not be more pleased.
John H
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Looking forward to pitching in.
Ideal, John; thanks! You've found the one bike-related forum on the 'Net consistently characterized by a friendly, supportive, and helpful membership. Please let us know if we can help you as well. Each of us goes about things in our own way, and the sharing is a great way to learn from each other.
So glad you have the new Nomad! No matter if it's a kid at Christmas or an adult with a dream bike, nothing matches the thrill of a new bicycle, or the satisfaction of an old one that has served well. Looking forward to seeing photos of it in the gallery, and hearing how it serves you. There's no bad rides, be it a daily commute or a ride 'round the world.
Ride safe, ride happy.
All best regards,
Dan.
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Maybe time to re-activate this thread!! To summarise, I was having difficulty back in 2011 with my RT because I found I began to need a more upright posture, and had re-configured the Raven as far as it would go.
I sold it to a guy who has ridden it to Thailand!! (Phil's Bike Tours) so I am delighted it is getting some use.
I bought a Cube Acid (26" wheel), which suited me pretty well - until it was stolen off the back of my camper van 8 weeks ago.
I have been looking for a replacement, I was quite keen on the Cube range, but have had major problems in getting the model / size I want - eventually cancelled order out out of frustration of waiting 7 weeks for a bike supposedly in stock. I was looking at a hybrid, though I had some reservations about high gearing and suitability for rough surfaces - although a fair bit of my riding is in the city, the roads are dreadful here and hybrid riders always look to me as though they are going pretty gingerly around potholes . . .
Then I saw the blue Ripio built up on the SJSC website, at a price within my budget!! So I am going to have a look at it soon, and assuming the sizing is right - and I think it will be - I'll be mobile and on a Thorn again. My ideal would probably be a Sherpa, but I cannot run to that cost I regret.
What strikes me is that it is an 'easy to sort out' bike, basic but solid kit. Plenty of room to adjust bar height etc.
Some advice please -
1) The Marathon tyres fitted are EC XR - I think they are full on expedition tyres? Duremes probably better for my trail and (potholed) road style of riding
2) I will miss the instant response of good disc brakes in wet weather, but the rim brakes fitted look to be good ones. Someone here has recommended a pad that reduces pad / rim wear, and has good wet weather bite - is it Kool Stop? I could in future upgrade to a different fork and disc front brake if I find it necessary.
3) I doubt if it would have the load capacity of a Sherpa, for reasons of geometry quite apart from anything else, but enough for me I think. Should be OK for a child seat?? Started this year with no grandchildren, will have 2 by November . . . .
4) Some manufacturers (including Cube) make a big selling point of a detachable / replaceable gear hanger; which can be replaced rather than damaging the frame I guess. What happens on Thorn frames if you take a tumble? I guess that gear gets bent and the frame is hopefully unbent?
Any observations welcome.
So, here's to my trip down the motorways to Bridgewater . . . .
Lewis
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Hi Lewis!
Good to hear from you again, but oh so very sorry to hear the Cube has been taken! Dratted thieves!
As to your questions...
Yes, it sounds as if the Ripio might well do for your needs.
Some advice please -
1) The Marathon tyres fitted are EC XR - I think they are full on expedition tyres? Duremes probably better for my trail and (potholed) road style of riding
Yes, they are very heavy-duty tires intended for expedition-worthy use. Duremes might well be better as a lighter weight all-'rounder if they are still available to you (they have been recently discontinued). Otherwise, the XRs would certainly be durable and capable, but at the cost of some speed and liveliness.
2) I will miss the instant response of good disc brakes in wet weather, but the rim brakes fitted look to be good ones. Someone here has recommended a pad that reduces pad / rim wear, and has good wet weather bite - is it Kool Stop? I could in future upgrade to a different fork and disc front brake if I find it necessary.
Kool-Stop *salmon*-colored pads are the ones you want. Superb braking in wet and dry in my experience, and very "rim-friendly". And yes, you could always go with a disc and compatible fork for it up-front if desired.
3) I doubt if it would have the load capacity of a Sherpa, for reasons of geometry quite apart from anything else, but enough for me I think. Should be OK for a child seat??
According to the Ripio brochure ( http://web.archive.org/web/20110902150659/http://www.sjscycles.com/thornpdf/ThornRipioBroHi-Res.pdf )...The Ripio will carry 20kg at the rear...but will cope with 30kg whenever necessary.
Based on this, I would say it depends on the weight of the child, the carrier, and the rack; all add toward those cargo totals.
4) Some manufacturers (including Cube) make a big selling point of a detachable / replaceable gear hanger; which can be replaced rather than damaging the frame I guess. What happens on Thorn frames if you take a tumble? I guess that gear gets bent and the frame is hopefully unbent?
Thorn's derailleur hangers are not replaceable, but are really sturdy pieces. I have read a few online accounts where they were bent accidentally (say, in-transit on a carrier) and were easily made right by bending back with a large wrench. I was mightily impressed with the hanger on my Sherpa, which seems to be the same piece used on the Ripio. Still, I always try to fall *away* from the derailleur (to the left, though I don't often have the choice at such times!), and never lean the bike on the derailleur side.
I do hope this will help. It is nice to think you might well be back on a Thorn soon!
All the best,
Dan.
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Oh! A question, Lewis...
Are you planning to run the Ripio with a sus fork, or will you be using the Mt. Tura rigid fork?:
http://www.sjscycles.com/thornpdf/ThornMtTuraForkHiRes.pdf
I'm guessing the sus fork given your needs, but I wanted to check to be sure.
Best,
Dan.
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Hello Dan!! 2 posts already!! Thanks!!
Thanks for posting up the archival brochure. That seems to confirm that the Ripio ought to suit me well.
Re child seat - As soon as they are big enough to use a tag along, or their own bike, they should do so! Full stop! Or period as you would say I think. So 20kg more than adequate.
And you rightly draw attention to the fork. One of the advantages of the Ripio, as I see it, is that I can start off with what is, in reality, a pretty basic sus fork, and depending on how I go and how wrists hold up (they have been better recently) I could either go for the Tura fork and stay with rim brakes or upgrade to a better fork, depending on how riding, and what sort of cycling I do, goes. And whether the roads in Sheffield are mended. Seriously, a moment's inattention, or concentrating on the traffic, and you can get a massive bang from a pothole, and I have seen too many incidents of cyclists at risk by swerving, choosing between the devil of a pothole and the deep blue sea of a car. But back to the point . . . .
The Ripio will give me the choice of either. I may well end up with a solid fork.
And why have my wrists been better?? Arthritis sometimes does come and go, but I recall that when I was having trouble getting the Raven Tour comfortable, I spoke to Robin Thorn about this. He advised larger softer tyres in preference to sus forks. And on refection, and using the retrospectoscope, I reckon he was right. The trouble with my RT was (quite apart from the fact that I did not need a full-on expedition bike) that the frame was too long and I ran out of set up change options. The guy who bought it has shortish legs but a long frame, and as he has pedalled it much of the way to Thailand, it must be OK for him. Good luck to them both! Keep at it, Phil!! So, I 'ought' to have got a short Sherpa in 2011 rather than my Cube, but there we go . . .
So was it the posture or the sus forks that made the Cube more comfortable?? Probably a bit of both . . .
I may well get a Tura fork while I am in Bridgwater . . . .
Lewis
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Always a bad sign when the same person posts twice before anyone else . . . .
Re gear hanger - Dan describes repairing a bent hanger, presumably on a steel frame?? Whereas on supposedly 'updated' materials, they cannot be bent back in this way??
Another advantage for steel, then . . . .
lewis
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Yes for an advantage to steel but most modern materials get round this common problem by having replacable hangers which may even be a better solution than bending back steel.
Andy - who has had a few bent hangers staightened and the fun of trying to touch up the paintwrk which gets burnt off in the process
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I was having trouble getting the Raven Tour comfortable, I spoke to Robin Thorn about this. He advised larger softer tyres in preference to sus forks.
Lewis,
Have you given some thought to going the same route as Andre, and fitting some of Schwalbe's widest balloon tires? At first -- I'll admit -- I had some trouble fully appreciating their virtues, but in time, with Andre's patient mentoring and some extensive research, I am coming to appreciate their merits. The Ripio with sus fork and perhaps the Mt. Tura should have clearance, and the wider (widest!) tires would be far more ehm, "fault tolerant" of road shortcomings, would require less pressure (having the effect of a rising-rate air spring), and a wider but shorter profile, this last going far to reduce rolling resistance for the width and also increasing lateral security.
Along with the tires, I'm thinking an arc or Jones or Hebie adjustable 'bar to get a bit more relaxed wrist position might help prevent a re-aggravation of your condition. After so many years on narrow, high-pressure tires on gravel logging roads and fire trails, my own hands are beginning to feel the grind on my beloved rando bike, making the 26x2.0 low-pressure Duremes on the Nomad ever more appealing.
All the best,
Dan. (...who loves problems like this, but wishes they weren't problems for those they affect)
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Thanks Andy and Dan
Yes, you are right to mention Andre's solutions. The Ripio will give me all those options: - to stay as it is, to go rigid with the Tura fork and the widest tyres I can fit, or upgrade the fork. Getting a disc brake will of course require more cost in revision of the lever arrangements (currently a combo of gear and cable brake lever are fitted - I've always preferred separate units for this reason) but if the rim brakes work well I will stick with that.
The most important thing is to see how I get on, and sort it out from there, and the Thorn gives me the flexibility to do just that.
The more I think about it, the more this bike will suit me. The frame may be on the small side (I am 5'8"" tall) but I like a 'tight' frame and I hope it will be OK. I reckon so.
Switching off computer soon . . . .
Best wishes everybody
Lewis
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Switching off computer soon . . .
No worries, Lewis; let us know how you get on with things. I think a ready solution awaits you here, your thinking seems to be right on-track toward meeting your needs, and you'll likely find what you're seeking in the Ripio once it is set up for your needs.
And, of course, if you wish to explore options further, give a shout; we're all just a keystroke away and full of opinions!
All the best,
Dan.
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Full of opinions? DEFINITELY!! But all worth taking note of and based on a lot of experience . . . .
Computer going off NOW . . . .
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Well, I have been to Bridgwater and bought the Ripio - with the Mt Tura fork as well, which is now fitted. Brilliant.
Only just got home, so further posts later. First impressions - brilliant.
lewis
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Oh! How exciting, Lewis! Congratulations!
I do so hope this will fill the bill for you in terms of meeting all your needs.
Remember...if it does not at first, it is indeed a brilliant platform for modification and fine-tuning to your needs. You've a whole world of choice awaiting you, from fat, low-pressure tires to a variety of sus-forks, handlebars, stems, and brake types.
The world (in bicycle terms, anyway) awaits!
All the best,
Dan. (...who is always pleased as can be when a Thorn-bike finds a new home)
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OK - writing this on my wife's tablet thing, not keen on it, I cannot see the screen clearly . . . First impressions of the Ripio, with the Mt Tura fork fitted at SJSC, a lovely firm, secure ride, instead of the rather jittery ride on many hybrids I have tried. Good, positive brakes, not quite as good as the discs on my Cube Acid perhaps, but much easier to maintain..
But what surprised me was the high gearing as set up, which living in a hilly city is not too good.
So I plan to alter the gearing, currently 26 / 36 / 48 rings, to something that gives me 'smaller' gears at the bottom end. my Cube had a 24 cog small chain ring, and I got used to that and the associated range.
I am undecided as to whether to just change the rings (on the existing FSA Alpha Drive chain set) or upgrade to a better chainset, keeping the FSA for an old Specialized I am rebuilding. I am tempted to upgrade to a Deore chainset or similar. And whether to go for a 22 or 24 smallest ring. What a difference a few teeth makes!!
I would like to be able to carry / haul 'shopping' loads over short distances, and my favourite rides are in hilly country so I suppose the lower the better.
So, work in progress - but a beautiful bike.
Lewis - who hopes to be back on his own laptop before long . . . . .. .
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Hi Lewis!
Your tablet experience mirrors my own; no typos, though, so you're doing much better than I did! 'Thought one might do for tour use, but nah, I need a keyboard for writing. I did find the tablet okay for consuming content, just not for creating it at production levels, and it was hard to hold and type on without a table. The glossy screen didn't help much outdoors, either. Found what I needed in a netbook with nonglare screen.
As for the gearing, I would suggest considering a 44/32/22 Deore chainset. One came on Sherpa, and I selected the same crank again for the Nomad and have been very pleased both times, though it is only fair to warn you that Shimano's external-bearing BBs are generally much shorter-lived than an internal-bearing unit. I did budget for a Phil Wood bottom bracket for when the Shimano wears out. My plan is to use the original BB on my next tour, then switch to the Phil on my return. The Phil unit has a reputation for long life and is the subject of many good reviews over at the MTBR forum.
If you do go the route of a new crankset with 44/32/22 gearing and wish to avoid HollowTech external-bearing BBs, there is an alternative at a very reasonable price: Shimano make a very similar looking crank in the Alivio, which pairs nicely with a UN-55 sealed BB. This model is surprisingly good, shares the same BCD/PCD as the Deore, looks much the same, and is the go-to replacement crankset for many in The Netherlands who want to replace an external-BB Deore HollowTech II. The model to consider is the square-taper version of the Alivio, as the Octalink version can be problematic: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Alivio-Mountain-Bicycle-Crankset/dp/B00485OLT4 Not the "best" of chainsets, but a very nice-looking, entirely serviceable one for very little cost that will give years of good service. You might say it punches above its weight class. It does come with the economy of steel 'rings, but they are replaceable and would last a good long time on their own. Just a thought at the lower-end of the price spectrum if you hadn't thought about it.
My thinking, Lewis, is that an entire chainset (crankarms and three 'rings) can be had for little more than the three chainrings, and if purchases in square-taper, might well fit your existing BB and pretty much eliminates any concerns about untimely BB wear.
If you do replace the chainset, then you'll have a nice selection of low gears to meet your needs, and can always shift up to the middle or high 'rings as speedful needs demand.
Lewis, one of the most valuable realizations I came to was a realistic assessment of my gearing needs. I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of times I've actually used a gear above 82 gear-inches, so I decided to set ~80 gear-inches as the maximum on my Rohloff-equipped Nomad, allowing me to shift the whole range downward, picking up two really useful gears even lower than my usual 19 -- a 17" and a 15". While the process isn't quite so straghtforward with derailleur gearing, I can tell you I never once regretted the 44/32/22 chainset on Sherpa and went through three cassettes before happily settling on my 12-36 as ideal, giving me gearing very close to what I now enjoy on the Nomad. I had a realistically low set of high gears, and this helped me achieve the really low-end gears I needed. It was such a joy to be able to climb hills in my 3rd from lowest gearing combo unladen, knowing I has one or two more as "bail-out" options if needed when loaded. I so admire riders like Jawine who really can and do pull very high gears, but alas, that's not for me. I can substitute a fast, light cadence with lower gears and keep the warranty intact on some formerly damaged knees.
Just a few thoughts to consider. Others will be along shortly with good ideas of their own; somewhere among them something may touch a chord to help you with your decision.
All the best,
Dan.
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No much to add Dan although I will put in a vote for the Stroglight Impact chainset if you can find it built up with your preferred gearing at a good price. Mine is surviving beyond expectation and I think Jags is happy with his
Andy
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Thanks Dan and Andy - All your comments welcomed and noted. At present, I cannot change the rings / sets myself - hoping to learn to do so on an old frame my brother is giving me - so I will take Ripio to my trusted Local Bike Shop, who has looked after me and my family well over the years.
I am tempted to go for 22 as the smallest, on the basis that I am likely to regret insufficient low gears much more often than insufficient high ones - as Dan's experience confirms! In shopping around for a new bnike, after the Cube Acid was stolen, I got lots of interesting comments . . . .
'Hollowtech cranks - brilliant . . . . '
'You need big gears to maintain control downhill - you cannot keep control if you are not pedalling . . . . ' - not my experience at all
'Rim brakes are terribly outdated . . . .' - but can be fixed easily with small tools instead of a bleeding kit . . . .
Once I get the gearing sorted out, I will post some of these comments for everyone's delight . . . .
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I am going for the 44/32/22 Deore set up - that will give me all I need to slog up long hills, and I will will only very rarely 'run-out' a 44 - 11 combination!!
I note the comments re the bearings on the standard Deore set up, but I will be fine with that, I reckon - I have never done enough real heavy weather / mud riding to cause that much of a problem, and so am going for a set that friends have used successfully. So waiting for the LBS to fit me up!! One day I'll get the tools and learn how to do it myself . . .
All being well, some rides in Snowdonia next weekend . . . .
Thanks for comments . . . .
Lewis
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Just a quick one - are the outer surfaces of the bottom bearing houseing machined for external bearings?
Andy
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Er . . . . . not sure, Andy . . . . but the LBS guy looked closely at the BB and said that would be OK, and we talked about the fors and against of external bearings . . . so I reckon (hope!) it will be OK . . . . Bearing in mind that a whole range of options are usually available on Thorn frames, I would expect it to be OK. Bike currently at the bike shop so cannot have a look.
Lewis
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Terrific decision and a kind and thoughtful followup post, Lewis. I chose the basic Deore setup for Sherpa and was very pleased with it, and again on the Nomad. If you find bearing wear, the standard Shimano replacement BB bearings are readily available and inexpensive.
The fitting mechanic will most likely lightly "face" the BB shell so the bearing cup shoulders will fit squarely against the edges; it is pretty standard kit and procedure these days now external-bearing BBs are so commonly fitted. As you say, this is standard kit on new Thorns, so you're not in untested waters.
I think you'll be very happy with the resulting gear range, and the shifting should be smooth, reliable, and flawless. Ideal for your ride to Snowdonia!
Happy times ahead for you, Lewis. So glad the new bike is working so well for you.
All the best,
Dan.
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Thanks Dan - I will talk to the mechanic tomorrow, as I tend to worry about these details excessively . . . .
And I have to confess that I am riding IN Snowdonia, not TO Snowdonia!! My wife is doing a 3 peaks Challenge (in aid of a Nepalese charity she is very committed to) and I hope to meet her off the mountain. Maybe one day TO Snowdonia as well as IN that beautiful district.
Best wishes for you trip, Dan - I have not kept up with all your plans but have now spotted that you hope to set off shortly. We will all be willing you on. Let's hope that the Thorn stays on the road, and the thorns stay off it.
Lewis
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very important to get the shell faced.i still have the dura ace outer bearings on my sherpa i put that down to getting it faced.
on my look kxlight carbon bike i replaced the bearings 3 times .
so if the guy in the bikeshop tells you you don't need it done take it somewhere else. ::)
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Hi Lewis!
WRT the BB facing...I will talk to the mechanic tomorrow, as I tend to worry about these details excessively . . .
<nods> Always best to get things settled at the beginning to avoid surprises. Facing usually amounts to milling off little more than a bit of paint on the edge faces that might keep the bearing cup shoulders from seating squarely and perhaps chasing the threads to make sure paint/powdercoat there won't interfere either. To put your mind further at ease, the grease or anti-seize used on the cup threads squishes out slightly and coats the bare-metal edge next to the tightly seated cup, so chance of rust forming is nil.
Whether in or to Snowdonia, it looks a wonderful place to be, with much to do and appreciate in terms of natural beauty. Best of luck to you and your wife; she has a big challenge!
Thanks so much for the good trip-wishes, Lewis; much appreciated. I am going to have to depart Monday dawn instead of Sunday, but it will be okay. So very much looking forward to it!
All the best,
Dan.
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Hi lewis
This may be worth consideration:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-M570-DEORE-LX-SQUARE-TAPER-9-SPEED-TRIPLE-CHAINSET-CRANKSET-22-32-44T-/350812810785?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item51ae12ae21
Andy
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Thanks Andy and Dan - all sorted - parts ordered and being fitted by LBS, who will be preparing surfaces properly, he assured me . . . . I'm not sure exactly what sort of bearing it is, but the guy has looked after my family's bikes very well for a number of years . . . .
So, I await a phone call to tell me it is ready.
And I plan to learn more about doing these things myself - it can't be that difficult, though in my experience everything on a bike needs careful handling to avoid stripped threads etc - on cheaper bikes and components anyway - and some of the tools look very expensive.
But I'm working on it.
Lewis
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Hi lewis
Glad it is all in hand and soon to be back with you. There is an amazing amount of tools and associated cost that goes along with being able to do everything on a bike but for a small investment in tools and research/experience about 90% of it is definetly achievable at home. My experience and tool kit has certainly grown over the years but there are still many jobs that I run to my lbs for.
Best of luck with the new setup
Andy
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Wonderful news, Lewis; I'm sure all will turn out well and with a happy outcome. I can't wait to hear the results and a ride report!
As for DIY and tools...as with everything else, it is an acquired skill. I got started thanks to a series of very, very bad bike shop repairs. I figured I couldn't possibly do worse, and I was right; I did much better!
The trick for me was to purchase the tools as I needed them for the task at hand. It is amazing how little is needed at first; a good multi-tool with chain cutter, some tire levers, a quality adjustable wrench and the cone wrenches needed for your own hubs aren't a huge investment and are more versatile than dedicated shop tools that will indeed last longer under production use. Add in a set of nice cable-cutters, a good spoke wrench and a cassette lockring tool or freewheel remover, and you're set for probably 90% of common repairs, both at home and while on-tour. A good bench-mounted vise gets you to probably 95% at home.
Specialist repairs can still be contracted out to the LBS or tools acquired as necessary, but then it becomes a matter of frequency of use; should you contract for services, or will you use those specialist tools often enough to make their cost worthwhile?
Over some 35 years is I now have a complete set of tools, lacking only BB threaders/facers, headtube facers, and crown race cutters. As infrequently as I build my hobbyist frames, I simply carted them by a "real" framebuilder's and paid for those jobs to be done there, piggybacking on their regular production prep. Bruce Gordon faced my head tubes and lathe-turned my fork crown races back in the day when he lived here; so did Gary Hale*. Going a bit at a time, I bought good-quality tools for less than the cost of a single LBS job, and then owned the tools for the next go-'round, incurring only parts costs thereafter. I've taught formal bike-repair classes in the past as part of my tour leadership, and it is wonderful to see the light bulb go on as people gain the confidence and familiarity to do their own repairs. It is empowering -- and really useful for touring!
As for possible damage, quality parts tend to be made to more consistent levels and are less likely to strip, so long as one respects the torque ratings of the fasteners. Even this can be overcome pretty easily with a small torque wrench if "feel" comes hard.
So, Lewis, it isn't too hard or too expensive, once one gets over the initial hurdle. For expertise, lots of people now go to the Park Tools website, where many tutorials are online: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
All the best,
Dan.
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*[People sometimes ask why I call myself a "hobbyist" builder, and if I will build a frame for them. I build occasionally because it is sort of the ultimate in DIY bike repair, requiring design, engineering, and craftsman skills. It was also an education that greatly increased my understanding and appreciation for bicycles. I'm a hobbyist builder because it is really expensive in terms of time, effort, tools and liability insurance to build frames professionally. It is hard, hard work even with automated machines, and not very profitable. Thanks to a lifetime of overuse, my hands aren't what they once were, and I have to pick and choose how I use them now. Legal liability and torte claims are a huge problem here in the States, requiring millions of dollars in insurance coverage. I won't make frames for others 'cos the potential for financial loss is too great; even if the owner didn't sue due to some unforeseen mishap, medical insurers will. In an attempt to recover costs, they'll go back through previous sales to find someone to hold responsible and the builder is often put in a position of having to prove their construction was not a contributor to, say, hitting a parked car.
Instead, I have fun building the sorts of frames for myself that are hard to come by commercially or pique my interest: Full-sus small-wheeled Folders and recumbents, modifications to existing frames, custom tubular steel racks, and the like. It is a bit like woodworking as a hobby. You can make a really nice table for yourself with a lot of pride and craftsmanship and premium woods, or you pick one up as a kit at IKEA, perfectly serviceable and ready to go for not much fuss or cost. Both are tables; whichever you choose depends on many factors at the time.
A quality bicycle/frame like Thorn's is actually a bargain. All the work is done, and you're buying a completed product that has been tested and proven. The company and/or contracted builder has invested in the tooling and labor, and you get the final product to enjoy for a lifetime. Not a bad deal! Weighing all factors, it is why I bought a Thorn expedition touring bike rather than make my own.
This addendum is waaay out there for a discussion of tools and even further from Lewis' attempts to find the perfect bike and the best drivetrain for his needs, which is why I made it an addendum. I don't want to dilute or hijack the thread, so I'll stop here, adding a couple links for those interested in the ehm, "realities" of professional framebuilding:
http://www.adventurecycling.org/default/assets/resources/20130201_BruceGordon_D%27Ambrosio.pdf
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2012/10/bruce-gordon-was-nice-to-me.html
http://www.richardsachs.com/site/2012/01/01/good-career-advice-if-anyone-will-take-it/ -- Dan.]
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Very very interesting Dan. Thanks for the links and the digression.
Cheers
Ian
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Thanks everyone - the Ripio is now back home, shiny new Deore 22/32/44 chainset etc fitted. The mechanic told me he had some sort of 'facing tool' to prepare the bearing surfaces and all looks and feels good, and I am much happier with the new rings, which suit my style, physique and favourite terrain much better.
The bike really has that stable and secure feel about it, and I look forward to using it. I will take some pic and try and get them on here, once I work out how to do so - I have your guide printed off, Dan.
Lewis
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...the Ripio is now back home, shiny new Deore 22/32/44 chainset etc fitted.
What wonderful news, Lewis, and always a relief to get the "beloved bike" back home and in your hands, safe and sound once again. It must feel even better now the gearing suits your needs to a "T"(horn).
Sounds as if your mechanic did a great job and the installation came off without a hitch.
Very much looking forward to the photos. If you run into any trouble posting them, just give a shout and I'll be glad to help.
Best,
Dan.
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Hi lewis
This may be worth consideration:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-M570-DEORE-LX-SQUARE-TAPER-9-SPEED-TRIPLE-CHAINSET-CRANKSET-22-32-44T-/350812810785?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item51ae12ae21
Andy
Same Crankset but at much better price (£29.99 + free delivery)
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/shimano-fc-m570-chainset-44x32x22t-175mm-id77574.html
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That is a very good price...
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Bringing people up to date . . . .
I have now had the Ripio for about 3 weeks, and am very pleased with it. As I said before, initially it was higher geared than I like, so I had my trusted LBS put a Deore chainset on with 22/32/44 (I think) rings on. That has made a tremendous difference - 90% of my riding is now in gears 2 - 8 of the middle chainring, with plenty to go at both ends. It is the Hollowtech set with external bearings - I know people have expressed reservations about that set-up but I am happy with it.
It has Dureme tyres on now, the Marathon XR tyres are in my garage and will be posted for sale on here.
And I will post a photo once I get round to it!!
My first real ride was in Snowdonia, on a really hot day, climbing then descending to/from Pen y Pass to meet my wife who was doing the 3 Peaks (Ben Nevis, Scafell, Snowdon / Y Wyddfa). It climbed well, and what really impressed me was how secure and sure-footed it felt, as later in the day I rode / pushed a bit up one of the mountain paths then cycled down a track of loose shale, slates and pebbles - I have not done that sort of riding for some years, but I felt OK with it. I'm sure that the sort of hybrid I was originally thinking of getting would feel much more 'tender' and skittish.
I guess part of the reason for this is the rigid Mt Tura fork - the bike goes where you point it.
Brakes - I miss the instant 'bite' of the discs I had on my Cube Acid (which was stolen), but the XT brakes work very well, and I know how to repair and fix them. So I am happy to be back with rim brakes. I may upgrade the levers to XT (currently Deore), if I change the shifters to thumbies - would XT levers improve the braking?
I still have the Suntour sus fork - in the rafters of my garage at present! To be honest, I don't really miss the sus fork 95% of the time, but I will keep the fork for the time being for when I go to the Lake District with my son. Swapping over will take a bit longer than it should because the brakes are mounted at the rear on the Mt Tura, front on the sus forks. I hate the thought of resetting them if they are working well!! so if my son uses the bike I may get a front brake for that fork - cheaper than the frustration of resetting brakes and then finding they don't work as well as they did before you started . . .
It seems to carry a load well, went on a supermarket shopping trip, and came back uphill with more weight than I have carried for a while . . . the frame is I think longer than most MTBs so it should carry things well.
And it is surprisingly fast!! Riding round Staines (Surrey) last weekend, no-one overtook me except roadies a few decades younger than me on lightweights - - - - it rolls very well, though the lightweights accelerate quicker. You can't have it all . . . .
I still have to work on the posture - it feels good, probably the main reason I like the bike, but I may need a shorter / steeper stem. But I will wait and see.
SJSC have been very helpful as usual with the odd queries I have had, and I have always found their judgements to be good and advice sound.
And yes, it has a Datatag to discourage villains from stealing it . . . .
I have Dan's instructions for posting photos in front of me, so I will try and do that . . .
Lewis
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Overall wonderful news, Lewis, and so very good to see you're comfortable when riding the bike.
Not to worry if there are still little niggles to resolve fit-wise; a change in stem can do wonders. I ended up running a 50mm inverted riser stem on the Nomad -- shortest stem I've ever ridden, but it works perfectly with the 590M (medium) frame to good result. Sometimes, one has to go a little different way to get the "perfected" fir for oneself!
I use Duremes and the Deore external-bearing crank, and I think you'll be happy with both. On my recent test-tour, the Duremes did an admirable job overall, handling everything from shale ballast rock on logging roads to smooth pavement. Of course, they're not the perfect tire for any singe condition, but do everything well enough to earn the title "All-'Rounder". You can surely "tune" the bike's ride through adjustments in tire pressure.
As for the crank, I've been pleased with mine. I find it stiff and smooth and well-finished at the price-point and therefor a good value. The bottom bracket is a bit fragile, but they are inexpensive to replace with OEM or an aftermarket solution can always work as a "fit-and-forget" option.
Truly, if you find yourself switching forks (rigid vs sus) frequently, a person really is time ahead in purchasing and fitting a dedicated and tuned from brake to the second fork. Not only are the bosses on the opposite side...the brake blocks are toed-in the opposite way as well, and this just adds hassle and time to the setup when swapping. If you do go with the second brake-set at the front, then all you will have is the main cable reattachment at the anchor and swapping over the spacers and stem with a rest of the headset adjustment.
I'm sure you'll do fine with the picture-posting. Just click on the lower-left "Additional Options" link when writing a new post, and navigate to where you have the photo stored on your computer (if you wish to make it an attachment). If you have the picture stored online somewhere, just insert the link to the photo itself in your post and it will appear inline with the text. If it doesn't work out, then email them to me and I'll be happy to post them for you.
Best,
Dan.
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Dan, you took 18 minutes to reply!!
Everything OK with you??
Only joking, Dan, I welcome your observations and encouragement. I think the thing I like about this Forum, and the posts of others as well as you, is that people give advice, but there's no flak or hassle if you decide to do something different - we all do things and choose things for a whole variety of reasons.
Yes, a second brake is a must if a decide to keep the sus fork. But I'm sure the reason the bike feels so 'sorted' and safe is the Mt Tura fork - it just feels safer and more secure than the hardtail I had before, and that had a pretty good sus fork I think.
Looking at other bikes, I just wonder what the ride on some of the modern bikes with a rigid fork, like a tube straight down to the front wheel spindle, must be like - OK on the top-end bikes perhaps, with exotic materials, but I suspect pretty harsh on cheaper bikes.
Lewis
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Dan, you took 18 minutes to reply!!
Everything OK with you??
Hahaha! That brightened my whole morning, Lewis; thanks! ;D ...there's no flak or hassle if you decide to do something different - we all do things and choose things for a whole variety of reasons.
Exactly! This is what makes bicycles and cycling such a rich pursuit everyone can enjoy. The results can be rich and varied, and there's always something to learn from the result.
All the best,
Dan. (...who learns something new each day)