Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Thorn General => Topic started by: Smith-Keary on September 12, 2010, 05:55:38 PM
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Can anyone help please?
I'm about to part with over £2,000 on a Thorn RST bike and naturally want to ensure that someone else does not get their grubby hands on it without my consent.
Can anyone recommend a rock solid lock that doesn't weigh as much as the bike?? It may be an impossible ask of course, but I thought it worth asking the question to find out what other owners currently do.
Thanks in advance.
Michael
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I now carry an Abus Granit X-Plus 54 D Lock with a thick cable to fasten round objects too big for the lock.
I recently had an expensive Thorn bike stolen complete with same lock, but not fastened to anything as all the objects were too large for the lock to go round and I had no cable :(
I recommend some good insurance as well, M&S Contents is very good if you are a houseowner.
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I'd suggest investing in 2 locks, one bomb-proof, one touring-friendly weight-wise, but as Julk suggests, always make sure your bike is locked to something immoveable. You won't go far wrong in opting for Abus - in my opinion carrying an extra 1Kg on tour (in all probability in less crime-prone spots) for the bit of extra security doesn't add up. Pitlock skewers in lieu of quick release levers to secure wheels (not to mention £800 of rohloff hub) is something else you might consider to put your mind completely at rest if you can't simultaneously secure the wheel.
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You must have a good U-lock plus some kind of a cable. I have the Abus Granit 54 D-lock; buy it with the Klickfix bracket which allows it to be fitted to your seat tube or possibly top tube or downtube depending on size. The lock is heavy but sturdy and known to thieves as unbreakable, which is probably half its success. (Also, it is good for defending yourself against carelessly driven SUV's, holding it by the U and swinging the crossbar end by its own momentum. Each hit on a Range Rover is a grand's panel work. The owners grow careful right smartly...)
I've just taken a self-coiling heavier cable off my bike and subbed a lightweight cable on a little winder, but I live in a low-crime area and my hubs are secured with allen key fastenings, not quick releases.
With your rear wheel protected by the D-lock, you might consider Pitlock for the front hub and headset through bolt, the latter to stop thieves undoing the headset bolt and shaking your fork and wheel out and walking away with them.
Something new that I looked at (but haven't bought yet because the available items don't reach or adjust high enough to give me the handlebar height of my present adjustable stem) is lockable bicycle steering, on the car model but reversed in action in that the bike version makes the bike unsteerable by unlocking the steering, and steerable by locking it up again. The two I looked at were Oredon and n'Lock, the former the prentice design by the designer of the latter; the n'Lock is uglier but better thought out. They too would require a Pitlock to the top of the steerer tube for full safety. The idea is that a thief will not steal a bike that looks as if it requires repair, and which is anyway not steerable. This is a smart idea where there is nothing to lock your bike to.
Here's a reference to n'Lock http://www.nlock.ch/default_en.asp but you're on your own trying to find an Oredon Freelock because its makers appear not to want to deal with anglophones...
My opinion is that a good D-lock for the rear wheel and Rohloff hub, plus the n'Lock with Pitlocks to front hub and top of steering column will permit you to leave the cable behind. There is also a Pitlock for the seatpost with an extension for the saddle, but maybe one can get too paranoid. (They won't agree with that last sentiment at http://www.lfgss.com/ from which I learned some of these tips and where you can find expert ratings of types and makes of locks.)
Don't forget to lock your bike inside your own house as well. According to some French information I saw when I was looking into the steering locks, half the bikes stolen are stolen by appointment, so to speak, from inside people's houses.
Andre Jute
Ride tall!
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Many thanks to you all for taking the time to respond.
It sounds like the Abus is a must but then also some other type of lighter weight coil lock as well. I do always try to ensure that my current bike is firmly attached to some fixed object and yes it is even locked up when in a locked shed at home. The insurance will be arranged at the same time as the purchase.
Thanks again
Michael
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In addition to the above, I recently invested in and fitted a ground anchor and chain to the floor of my garage to secure the tandem and RST.
It took about 2 hours drilling, but the metal sleeved bolts cannot be undone without suitable tools, and it provides a great locking point with a suitable sleeved chain and shielded padlock.
Like the locks, an anchor is as expensive as you want it to be - I went for a cheaper one as I didn't have a pneumatic drill handy!!! but placing it so it's hidden behind the stored bikes protects it even more.
If somebody succeeds in lifting one of my bikes from home, they deserve it for their dedication!!!!
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.. some other type of lighter weight coil lock as well...
I'd make this one of the lighter D-Locks as I'd consider a coil lock too vulnerable to quick and easy theft. To the best of my knowledge there's about a 1Kg difference between the most robust and lighter models (eg. Abus Gold and Bronze standard).
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+1 for Albus Granit X-Plus D lock. Note it comes in different lengths, I have one with an extra long one so that I can lock two bikes to a fixed point and we can therefore share the weight of this heavy lock when on tour.
Most (all) light weight locks won't withstand an attack for more than a few seconds so with that in mind I have the lightest and least resistant lock I could find. It is similar to an Abus Combiflex 201 Retractable 1.6 mm Steel Cable Lock 70 cm. This style of lock wouldn't stop any sort of true attack BUT it would stop a someone simply running off with your unlocked bike while you are inside the villageshop buying some supply's for the next day. In towns or for time longer than a lunch stop I always take the Albus Granit
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+1 for Albus Granit X-Plus D lock. Note it comes in different lengths, I have one with an extra long one so that I can lock two bikes to a fixed point and we can therefore share the weight of this heavy lock when on tour.
Most advice I read before I went shopping for a lock advises buying one as small as possible to give thieves the least purchase for jacking tools. Consequently I bought the 230mm Abus Granit 54 X-Plus D-lock and found it almost too small for a bike with 60mm balloons. Still, with a bit of thought it goes round a 4in post as well as the rim, balloon and frame, and then I defy anyone to get even a crowbar in there in a position where it can be levered.
Like yours, my secondary (cable) lock got much thinner, lighter and more convenient once I grasped the superior thief-deterrent qualities of the Abus 54.
Pity the Abus is so heavy though. But to get a genuinely better lock you have to go up to stainless steel motorcycle U-locks, and those start on the wrong side of five pounds.
Hobbes
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A frame-fitting lock is not too heavy, have seen them on a few touring bikes. The Kryptonite Mini Evo is not too heavy for a u-lock, I use an Evo and a Kryptonite Fahg mini on my workbike but they add 3kg to the bike's weight. I try not to leave my better bikes locked in public for long, preferably within sight, and any lock is better than none.
Link: AXA-BASTA Defender RL Safety Lock (http://www.langsettcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b12s293p593&rs=gb)
Link: AXA-BASTA Axa Basta RLD Plus 180cm plug in Cable for Defender lock (http://www.langsettcycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b12s293p7206&rs=gb)
Some good tips here:
http://www.bicycletouring101.com/BikeLocks.htm (http://www.bicycletouring101.com/BikeLocks.htm)
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Most advice I read before I went shopping for a lock advises buying one as small as possible to give thieves the least purchase for jacking tools.
I almost totally agree - all I will say in my defence is that because I am locking up two bikes there isn't much room left inside the D for a jack attack. However locking two bikes together (and to a solid anchor) will never be as secure as locking a single bike - AND it will be twice the target! However this is the choice I have made. You were right to bring it up.
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I think the cycle touring article posted by Erudin summarises it pretty well - don't let your bike out of sight outdoors unnecessarily and when you have no alternative, take commonsense measures. These bits of advice alone will probably mitigate against a high percentage of theft scenarios. Pretty much no matter what lock you have, if you a high value bike secured on the street for over a sufficient period of time around where I live (Hackney,London), it would almost disappear within days/weeks.
I'm lucky to have be able to secure my bike in an external lock-up (I live in 3rd floor flat) at home and at work I currently have access to a secure underground garage with bike facilities - I always use a lock. I virtually never leave my RST locked on the street for any more than a few minutes in London, and will ocassionally resort to public transport to avoid doing so.
My experience when touring in Western Europe has generally been not to gravitate to any large cities or any mega-commercial tourist-traps- you're pretty safe in rural towns, but again it comes down to commonsense overnight - bar two occassions, I've succeeded in having access to a garage within a hotel whilst also using my light D Lock and will otherwise insist the bike goes in the room. More often than not at campsites, I've managed to secure the bike to something with the D-Lock (bearing in mind I Pitlocks fitted to the wheels), usually within view or earshot of any would-be theft attempt (or if not within someone else's view or earshot!). I feel sufficiently relaxed from my experience to conclude that as long as you steer clear of probable crime spots and apply commonsense, you don't need to weigh yourself down with an ultra-grade lock when touring - a lighter D-Lock which from distance looks sufficiently robust to deter closer inspection has served me just fine.
Julk's unfortunate experience just goes to show however that just making the smallest compromise in not securing your bike leaves you vulnerable -whether Julk's campsite was near any pocket of deprivation, I'm unsure, but it does very much sound like he was targeted rather than an opportunistic theft.
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Just been looking at buying a better chain and found this company ...
http://www.almax-security-chains.co.uk/
Also have recently fitted PitLocks to prevent bits being stolen ...
http://www.pitlock.com/ (also available from http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pitlock-shoppitlock_pg1/ (http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/pitlock-shoppitlock_pg1/))
This seems to be a good combination, perhaps with a top quality D-Lock in high crime areas?
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There are lots of useful tips and addresses in the above messages.
Here is another one, which seems to have saved my saddle over the past six years : a small stainless steel cable (actually a former sailing boat halyard) attaching the saddle to the bike frame, with just a little slack to allow for adjustment, suspension etc.
It seems that the bikes of experienced urban cyclists are stolen less often than those of novices, so I believe that the careful choice of parking place, locking method etc are as important as the actual hardware used.
However, I also believe that, as the methods of bike thieves evolve, so we have to regularly upgrade our methods & equipment.
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I use an Abus Amparo ring-lock for quick, easy, always-there convenience, together with pitlocks on the wheels and another cable lock if necessary. Abus have a plug-in cable that can be used with it, but I don't have that yet. The ring-lock is great for that 'just drop in to the shop' stop - key in and slide the knob to lock it.
(http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/46431/2375658940074746151S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2375658940074746151uOtmpi)
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I use an Abus Amparo ring-lock...
Pete, are you also able to use the Thorn's built-in pump pegs with this lock? (I'm guessing this might not be an issue if you're already using a stay-mount kickstand, as that pretty well precludes a pump in that location anyway). I'd really like to go for a ring-lock on my Sherpa, but cannot figure how it could clear the Zefal HPX2 mounted to the left seatstay. I see Abus make available a mount that attaches to the V-brake bolts, but then I could run into problems with the rack stays and it would appear to put the lock aft of the rear triangle, which wouldn't do as much to prevent theft as if it were ahead of them.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
Thanks,
Dan.
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Hi
I have a Thorn Raven Nomad Mk 2, so no pump peg is supplied. Even if there was one, I use and love the rear-stay mounted kickstand. I use a Lezyne Road Drive pump, one of the better of the mini-pumps.
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In addition to my Kryptionite Evolution K4 lock (the one with the non-cylindrical key in the middle) and a small-diameter custom-made vinyl-covered aircraft cable for use on tour in more rural areas, I have also added a small motion-detecting alarm to the seatpost.
It was a cheap eBay find from China (~USD$4 or so, plus about the same in postage), very light and works great. Two levels of sensitivity, custom alarm codes, and a series of warning chirps before letting fly if it continues to be molested. I popped in a 9-volt, 10-year lithium alarm battery intended for smoke detectors and it works great. It has to be unbolted to remove the battery, and so provides an extra annoyance for those looking to bother the bike during the brief times I am in a small-village store. Of course it provides no real security; a hammer could smash it, but it is annoying and loud.
I also thought it might be helpful when wild-camping to let me know if small animals have found my bike-mounted panniers. When in bear country, I'll hoist the bags 'way up into the trees to remove ready access to bears, then affix my bear-bell to the saddle rails to alert me if something is going after anything with residual attraction on the bike (porcupines love the salt left by perspiration on Brooks saddles and don't mind Proofide, so they can be a real problem unless shooed-away). The motion alarm should do as well and let me really sleep unless it goes off in the middle of the night to greet the raccoons, chipmunks, and porcupines that get hungry for a midnight snack.
Best,
Dan.
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+1 for Abus Granit-X. I use the shorter version, which fits perfectly in the rear triangle when I ride my RST. I always lock it through the front wheel and frame, very easy with narrow poles. I also use pitlocks for everythign (front, rear wheel, seatpost, saddle itself, ahead, and even brakes).
I have seen the swiss thing where you can lock the stem four years ago - it's an interesting concept, new so potential thieves may be discouraged. At the same time, it did not look very sturdy at all...
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I bought the Swiss n'lock and have fitted it, and it appears to be as good as the triple-tested German stem fitted as original equipment to my Kranich by Utopia -- with the additional function of frustrating thieve. I'll write about it later in the thread I started for it, but Tito unfortunately doesn't have this one right, there is nothing flimsy about the n-lock. -- Andre Jute
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As of today (just got an email announcement), atomic22 have announced the launch of their component/wheel/saddle/other security locking system. I am happy myself with the PitLock system on my saddle, Ahead and axels however anyone wanting to secure other (as well as the usual components, or looking for an alternative system) could secure them with the atomic22 system. Looks good!
http://atomic22.com/
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Richard,
You've really found something! This in some ways beats the Pitlocks for those applications where a Pit is not available -- i.e. as a bolt replacement. In this respect, it would allow me to secure my Tout Terrain The Plug 2 and the fork, where the Pitlock cannot do so. Similarly, I prefer the appearance of this design for things like the seat bolt and to secure the seat cradle as well (a second point for opportunistic theft if left unsecured).
The Atomic22 Infiniti3ds closely resemble the "puzzle locks" used as lug nuts to secure automobile wheels, but with the difference that they are either recessed or strongly conical, making it less likely for removal using the universal method of hammering a cheap socket over the outside.
Like a puzzle-style wheel lock, I am a bit concerned at their ability to absorb normal tightening torque without distorting; that puzzle shape is pretty small for the items being secured. Still, with quality materials and a sufficiently deep contact well, it could work nicely. I see they have apparently addressed this concern with the optional "hypertorque" key design, as well as one specifically designed for low-torque and normal applications. The real appeal is being able to lock virtually any component with this design, and having it appear pretty normal in appearance. I wonder if stainless steel is used to prevent corrosion in the puzzle well.
On the one hand, they aren't cheap; on the other, you can buy the locks you need for a specific application.
Nice job, Richard! Thanks for letting us know about this one!
Best,
Dan.