Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Cycle Tours => Topic started by: dogcart on August 11, 2025, 09:29:50 PM
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We're planning a couple of weeks touring from Ullapool down the coast to Kyle of Lochalsh, nip over to Skye, along Skye to Uig to get the ferry to Harris, Harris and Lewis then back on the ferry to Lewis.
This will be mid September and we are fully aware of the vagaries of the Scottish weather and prevailing winds but I'm more concerned about how busy the A87 road is on Skye. The rest of the route will be reasonably quiet but it's over 30 years since I set foot on Skye. It was busy with touring motor traffic from the world over then.
Does anyone have experience of that road? It links two ferry ports so I wonder if it carries a lot of traffic?
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Traffic should be less as the school holidays will have ended. Additionally a lot of the so called NC500 campervan traffic will have gone. Days will be a tad shorter. Weather wise difficult to predict although the west coast does get more rain.
Part of a route I did two years ago included a ride across to Ullapool from Lairg ( complete joy)
Ferry across to Stornoway then Hebridean Way down to Barra for the ferry back to Oban. (beautiful, especially Harris) The hill near Clisham was tough on a loaded tourer.
I did Mallaig (Ferry) to Skye then to Kyle so only east coast of the island. Easy riding though.
I found riding there safe and most drivers courteous and considerate. You'll have a great time!
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Thank you for that. It sounds like a plan.
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That's my old touring ground.
As said above, the traffic should have eased off by then - and maybe the midges.
Lots of news every month up here about ferries being cancelled and routes changed so best keep up with that aspect of the trip.
Fingers crossed for good weather. I called off one of my trips in August a few years ago. Strong weather fronts sweeping in from USA made me run for home. At that point Aberdeen wasn't too far away by train.
Other months have been perfect.
Whenever I get back from a Scottish island tour I ask myself why do I go away abroad most years. Scottish scenery is stunning.
Enjoy
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CalMac are a bit unreliable at times, I have prior experience. Earlier this summer my wife and I cycled via the ferry onto Gigha (between Islay and Kintyre). Just a day trip but very nice. On our way back to the little ferry jetty one of the locals stopped his car to tell us the ferry had broken down, again. We were directed to another jetty to look for "Colin" who was going to use his rib to help. Basically at no charge the guy moved everyone off and back on to the island. No room for bikes so we left them at the ferry terminal (bus shelter) and went back the next day to retrieve them on the repaired ferry.
It seemed appropriate to give Colin a bit of a tip/thank you.
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I crossed Skye to get to the Hebrides a few years ago, off the ferry from Mallaig, mid September* (My favorite time to be in Scotland), traffic was OK, we took that direct route because 90 miles and two ferries was already pushing it for the day. If you have the time the costal route North of Portree is a much nicer ride, you could either follow the coast all the way round for an extra 15 miles, or you could knock five miles off by opting to turn L earlier for a brutal climb, I can't remember the name of the road, but it's obvious on the map.
I find the Hebrides an odd place to tour, the best spots are mostly out and back routes, so they often get missed. But wherever you go and whatever the weather, I'm sure it'll be great.
* Out of five trips, three have been glorious weather, one was mixed and one was non stop rain.
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Another vote here for the A855 coastal route from Portree and the Quiraing Road from Brogaig. The Quiraing Road is a spectacular route but does involve a climb of around 250 metres which is tougher going east west, which is the direction that you would be travelling.
If you want to avoid the A87 almost entirely, and save a few miles cycling on Skye in return for a few extra miles on the outer islands, you might consider the ferry from Armadale to Mallaig and then a second ferry to Lochboisdale.
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Re nice roads; if on Harris look out for the Golden Road.
Not flat but not busy and stunning scenery.
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The extreme bends of Harris's Golden Road tend to keep traffic to a minimum on this winding single track route through some of Harris's rocky East Coast.
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A bit OT, but if you like a good read "The Soap Man" by Roger Hutchinson, is a fascinating look at the experience of Lord Leverhulme's purchase of and failure to change, Harris and Lewis in the 1920's. I found having read it, it gave some insight and context to what I was riding through, the people, the landscape and the history, for example why the Golden Road is so called. More informative than any guide book.
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Our little tour has been completed.
We drove from N Yorkshire to Ullapool, parked in the council/Tesco carpark which is free or open to donations and cycled down to the Kyle of Lochalsh following the coast road via Torridon and Applecross. Then across the "new" bridge (well it wasn't there last time I visited) onto Skye and in the end did follow the A87 to Uig. It wasn't too bad with traffic. We took the ferry to Tarbert on Harris, looped all round the coast there south of Tarbert. I still need to research why part of it is called the Golden Road? Finally roughly up the middle of Lewis to Stornaway to get the ferry back to Tesco! We camped each night in some very pleasant campsites and the one at Torridon was even free though it was rather boggy but had a loo and shower.
We didn't have time to explore the west side of Lewis or up to the top but I've been before and it was very pretty then so presume it still is.
A fair bit of our route was on the NC500 road route as it's basically the only road. I'd heard that it has become very popular with motorised folk who like to "do" epic roads and it was busy but not badly so. There was no chance for anyone on the road to "get away from it all" or do anything remotely akin to "wild camping" as there was always plenty of company. That said there were lots of happy campers and it's much better than being banged up in some big city. The drivers were mostly very kind towards us laden cyclists. There was some questionable overtaking ethics from some Swiss numberplates and I obviously got calved up in the big city of Stornaway because cyclists seem to be fair game in urban areas!
My Thorn bike even got an approving nod whilst waiting for the Ullapool ferry.
We better start planning the next section of Scottish coastline.
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Vicariously enjoyed that. Thanks for posting. The Clisham and I still have an 'interesting' relationship. I rode up it on my way south and found it beastly. There was however a pot of gold at the end of that metaphorical rainbow. I called into the servo at Tarbert looking like a drowned rat. I bought some food and asked the lady if there was a campsite nearby. She said no but, upon seeing my heart sink, offered the use of the family croft nearby. Oh joy of joys! I had a lochside campsite all to myself for two nights. Blissed out!
It would be great to see a few photos of your tour. Thanks for sharing.
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Harris and Lewis look much the same. I think this bridge is at the bottom of the big hill north of Tarbert
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Oops. Same view twice
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Tarbert port on Harris and a little bay along the coast road
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Flippin' big hill between Applecross and Lochcarron. We went up the least hard side, the photo is looking down towards Lochcarron. It would have been a long walk had we gone up that way
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Skye bridge, Cullin Hills, Uig campsite and one of many Scottish hills next to water!
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Excellent pictures. Thanks for sharing.
I've not been to the Islands for a few years now.
As soon as I'm back on my feet, I'll certainly return.
Yes, the N500 is something of a controversial beastie.
Last November we travelled some of it by car. Stunning scenery and plenty of super cars flying through.
But back to the cycling. That section, The Golden Road will always be one of my favourite rides. Each to their own of course but it ticks all my boxes.
Thanks again.
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Great photos, looks like fun!
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We camped at Horgabost on the north side of Harris and cycled anti clockwise round the Island. Somewhere on the S.E. corner there was a sign stating "not The Golden Road" and further up the coast there was another stating "The Golden Road". I can't say I noticed much difference, it was all beautiful. There must be an historical reason for the name so I've ordered The Soap Man book to educate myself! We did see a monument to local folk who had stood up for themselves but didn't stop to glean more information, perhaps a similar era? Hopefully the book will reveal all.
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There must be an historical reason for the name so I've ordered The Soap Man book to educate myself! We did see a monument to local folk who had stood up for themselves but didn't stop to glean more information, perhaps a similar era? Hopefully the book will reveal all.
Yes it will put into context what you've seen, I won't add any spoilers!
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Excellent photos. They give a good impression of a rugged countryside, lotsa water, and isolated, lonely villages.
Don't forget to tell us when you've read it what you discover from the book about the linguistic mysteries.