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Community => Cycle Tours => Topic started by: in4 on March 26, 2023, 09:43:21 PM

Title: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on March 26, 2023, 09:43:21 PM: Ferry to Belfast - great
Loop of Strangford Lough - Challenging in parts. Awful weather. Portaferry quite charming.
Ferry to Cairnryan - excellent
Bailed out at Ballantyre - essential, tired with a capital K
Ballantyre to Ardrossan Port - a real pleasure
Ardrossan to Isle of Arran tomorrow - wild camp, looking forward to that.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Danneaux on March 26, 2023, 10:36:09 PM: I've never read a more complete tour summary with such an economy of words!

Loved the photos!

Looks like a wonderful Adventure to me; best of luck, Ian.

Dan.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on March 26, 2023, 10:57:03 PM: Especially loved the photo of the sun-rise/set. Clever composition with the sun just offside from the centre.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on March 27, 2023, 08:52:37 AM: Thanks Andre. The first photo was just me being a bit naughty. The clock is emblazoned with Trump Turnberry. It’s situated outside the opulent Orange One’s golf empire. The contrast between my simple pleasure and those staying and playing at Turnberry made me laugh. The grumpy security guy, not so much lol
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on March 27, 2023, 01:19:20 PM: looks like a great trip, was that the full report or just a teaser ;)
It has left me wanting more, though that's no always a bad thing!
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on March 27, 2023, 09:26:43 PM: Many fond memories of Arran. Top to bottom and visa versa & off the top by ferry to Islay.
Lochranza, Claonaig.
Washed out once when ferry cancelled due to high winds & rain.
Popping up Goat Fell?

Happy days.

Best Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on March 28, 2023, 12:17:38 AM: Quote from: in4 on March 27, 2023, 08:52:37 AM
Thanks Andre. The first photo was just me being a bit naughty. The clock is emblazoned with Trump Turnberry. It’s situated outside the opulent Orange One’s golf empire. The contrast between my simple pleasure and those staying and playing at Turnberry made me laugh. The grumpy security guy, not so much lol

Heh-heh! The security guy probably thought you were the advance guard of a thousand protestors.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on March 30, 2023, 09:26:38 AM: Great night at free camp site, North Sannox, Arran.
Bailed out because of the rain 🌧️
Took the ferry from Locranza to Tarbert in ‘delightful’ company, apart from her gaseous dog!
Brilliant overnight at Starfish Rooms

Lovely ride up through Lochgilpinhead and beyond via Crinan Canal towpath.
So called cycle route past standing stone circles and staying west of Loch Awe to Taynault was very draining, particularly in the rain. Less traffic, for sure. Way to hilly for this laden cyclist. Thankfully the hills were deaf.

Taynault to Oban was fine, riding on the sidewalk.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 01, 2023, 10:29:42 AM: Quote from: in4 on March 30, 2023, 09:26:38 AM
Bailed out because of the rain 🌧️
Great report and photos, but I don't understand this term? Do you mean revised plans? ;)
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: JohnR on April 01, 2023, 11:26:29 AM: Quote from: PH on April 01, 2023, 10:29:42 AM
Quote from: in4 on March 30, 2023, 09:26:38 AM
Bailed out because of the rain 🌧️
Great report and photos, but I don't understand this term? Do you mean revised plans? ;)
https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/bail-out
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 01, 2023, 11:45:32 AM: Quote from: JohnR on April 01, 2023, 11:26:29 AM
Quote from: PH on April 01, 2023, 10:29:42 AM
Quote from: in4 on March 30, 2023, 09:26:38 AM
Bailed out because of the rain 🌧️
Great report and photos, but I don't understand this term? Do you mean revised plans? ;)
https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/bail-out
Well yes, but I don't think the term appears in the Touring Cyclists' Dictionary.
In the same way as what others might refer to as "Lost" appears in the TCD as "Alternative route"
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 01, 2023, 11:57:16 AM: I love the image of the town reflected in the rippling water.

And "bailed out" as a euphemism for "I sat in the bar in front of the fire until the evil weather passed" is absolutely brilliant!

My favourite pub for being caught out by the weather is round the corner from Timoleague opposite the lifeboat anchorage, where one can catch the reflections in the water, and they always have a roaring fire going.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: John Saxby on April 01, 2023, 04:43:32 PM: Great tale & photos, Ian!

Quote
Bailed out because of the rain
No shame, been there, done that, nuthin' left to prove, eh. ;)
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 03, 2023, 07:52:02 PM: Bailed out: I was using it in the Australian sense. IE to give up on something. You’ve all got me thinking now though. Perhaps there’s some historical, naval phrase lurking there. Perhaps a cricketing one too. To further complicate things, being bailed up by a dog is to be approached by a pooch with anything but pleasantries on its mind. Anyway, moving on. After recuperating in Oban I caught the ferry to Craignure, Isle of Mull and cycled down to Port Uisken. Gorgeous beach campsite site. £5 pn. No facilities save for drinking water.

https://www.google.com/search?client=mobilesearchapp&channel=iss&cs=0&hl=en_GB&rlz=1MDAPLA_en-GBGB875GB876&v=256.2.518341946&output=search&q=Uisken+Beach&ludocid=1879524721697674635&gsas=1&client=mobilesearchapp&v=256.2.518341946&ibp=gwp;0,7&gsas=1&lsig=AB86z5XC2f_8TM1nVKQ6mQQcbfP1&kgs=c6bc14103e950316&shndl=-1&source=sh/x/kp/local/5

Next day I took the ferry to Iona. An Island of cultural and spiritual significance, for centuries.
Even for non-believers there is a great sense of ‘the veil being thin’ here.

Too early for Corncrakes though.

Last night I wild camped at the back of Ben Mor, just off the B8035. Fantastic site, until 3am when the winds from the Devil’s own b…reath arrived! Extra guy rope duties called. I was not at my most sartorial best.

Took an hour to decamp this morning so as nothing flew off into the Loch.

Thus endeth the latest extract from Henry’s weighty tome. 😀
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: John Saxby on April 03, 2023, 08:17:48 PM: A good tale indeed, Ian. And 'enery, ya done well.

Superb moonlight photo! And a properly windswept beach scene. We spent a few days on Mull and Iona in 2008, hugely enjoyed it. My wife, bless her, didn't bring a woolly hat. I said, "Sweetie, it's Scotland!" She said, "But John, it's June." I said, as the rain came in horizontally from Iceland, "True enough, and there's a reason why Nova Scotia is called New Scotland..." Anyway, we found a proper one on Iona, and she still uses it.

As for bailing out: I understood your meaning - we use the phrase that way. As for its origin, I've always assumed that it came from small boats: by "bailing out", I was chucking it.

[And, sometimes I see it misspelt as "baling out"; but that allusion to a combine harvester (or before that, a harvester) makes no sense at all. 'Cept that the writer was probably a townie.]

Cheers, John
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 04, 2023, 09:22:36 AM: You really have a knack with a camera, Ian. That moonlight photo needs only one thing to be absolutely perfect, and that's soundtrack of a single extended, falling note played on a saxophone.

That church, with enough history behind it to afford the cushions missing from the hard seats, tells you everything you want to know about Scottish Protestantism, a subtle social comment!

PS. When I lived in Melbourne, my builder's dog accompanied him everywhere. Travelling into the interior, I told people in the local bar of a small country town, to huge laughter, that I saw a lot of mekelpies. It turned out that I'd misunderstood my builder saying "Me Kelpie." Scottish relevance: A kelpie, or water kelpie (Scottish Gaelic: Each-Uisge), is a shape-shifting malevolent spirit living in lochs and rivers in Scottish folklore. It can be a beautiful woman or a horse capable of turning its hooves when it takes on human form. Whatever form it takes on, it is made of seaweed, so if you see one, don't panic, just say firmly, "From kelp you came, and to kelp you will return." If that doesn't work, save Henry first so you can outpace the spirit, and return in daylight for the rest of your gear. Don't eat any kelp though: it won't protect you, just make you unable to live with yourself in a small tent.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 04, 2023, 10:19:04 AM: Enjoying your reports and photos Ian, I've done a fair bit of that route, though I haven't covered as much of it in one go as you're doing. There's parts I'm hoping to return to some day, that's unusual for me, there's so much on my wish list I don't often consider repeats! Did you spend a night on Iona? I was there in high season and it was busy during the day, maybe it's less so in March, thankfully the majority of the tourists left early evening, to return to their cars left on Mull, it completely transformed and we had the beaches to ourselves..

(https://live.staticflickr.com/5303/5592712391_3bfdf73c22_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/9wd7xH)Deserted Beech on Iona (https://flic.kr/p/9wd7xH) by Paul (https://www.flickr.com/photos/phbike/), on Flickr

I'm wishing I hadn't made the "Bailed out" comment, it was intended as humour, playing on the idea that it implied failure and... Well they say if a joke needs explaining it wasn't funny to start with... sorry :-[
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 04, 2023, 12:09:42 PM: Lovely photo from Iona. It’s a special place for many and for many reasons. Cape Reinga NZ is another of my thin veil places.
No apologies necessary. Comment as you wish. I’ve just remembered that brilliant bit of cricket humour from the late Brian Johnson and I think Jonathan Agnew. 😂
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Mike Ayling on April 04, 2023, 10:25:15 PM: Definition of bail up bail up verb to call someone to halt, particularly when the intention is to rob. Usually used in reference to Australian bushrangers.

bail out

DEFINITION

withdraw from an obligation or commitment:
"she felt ready to bail out of the corporate rat race"
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 06, 2023, 10:51:45 PM: After leaving my wild camp I cycled down the B8035 towards Salen. I wanted to avoid the hill back to Craignure that was great fun on the way down but a heartbreaker on the way up. The B road was a wonderful, scenic ride. It emerges in front of ‘The Coffee Pot’ Fabulous, cakes, pastries, coffee. All prepared and served by a lovely team. Coincidentally I met up again with another traveller, in a VW RV/Campervan. A lovely, lovely lady. As complete strangers we sure talked the hind leg of the proverbial donkey. It would be inappropriate to share much. Suffice to say that treasuring the time we have is a good thing to do.
Anyway, pulpit moment over I camped overnight in Tobermory and took the ferry to Kilchoan.
The ride up to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse was wind assisted. I took a detour on the return leg and went to Sanna beach, via a challenging footpath. Yuk!
The return to Kilchoan campsite was wind-hindered and hard, hard work. Henry knew I was channeling ‘angle grinder’ so behaved impeccably lol.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Danneaux on April 07, 2023, 01:31:07 AM: Quote
...I met up again with another traveller, in a VW RV/Campervan. A lovely, lovely lady. As complete strangers we sure talked the hind leg of the proverbial donkey.
Such moments make for the memories of a lifetime and add so much to a tour; really glad you had this "moment", Ian.

All good wishes,

Dan.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 07, 2023, 09:15:20 AM: More excellent stuff Ian, makes me eager to get back, though it's unlikely to be this year.
Was the road from Salen to Kilchoan challenging? I've ridden it in the opposite direction, with a fantastic downhill on straight road where you can really let the bike go! Gorgeous scenery, but I remember being grateful I didn't have to ride it in the opposite direction!
Is the last photo Sanna? Looks magnificent. It was in my plans after an E to W ending in Ardnamurchan, ran out of time, with ferries and trains booked, and settled for Portuairk, though that also involved some challenging footpath.
Where next? You're covering so much country, it's hard to envisage the plan, if there is one.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 07, 2023, 11:29:18 AM: As the best meals are the ones someone else cooks, so the best photograph is the one at the end of Ian's "challenging footpath". That's a rough landscape!

And that symbolic anchor across the water from a typical North European small town is stunningly apt, just what is missing from most photographs of North European towns over water, a reminder of where the wealth for those impressive houses came from.

Thank you so much for sharing, Ian. "Pulpit moment"!
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Moronic on April 07, 2023, 01:46:54 PM: Love the penultimate shot, with the tent in it. Leaves me very keen to get back out there.

What tent is that, btw? Looks a bit like a Hilleberg Nallo. Certainly seems to pitch nicely.

I've always thought that the expression bale out came from WW2 airmen's term for abandoing the plane and trusting to a parachute. Hence to bale out is to abandon something.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 08, 2023, 09:17:46 AM: Thanks for all the comments everyone.
Yes, Sanna beach. I wanted to wild camp there but it’s a Crofting place so it was back to Kilchoan for the night.

The tent is a ME Dragonfly 2xt. It’s quite old now and around 2.5kg. It’s got a very useful extension for putting my panniers in. It’s not the quickest to put up, is a bit awkward to enter and exit and can collect water where the two long poles cross each other. All that said, it is very robust and has stood up well to some quite high winds in both Eire and UK.
A replacement is under consideration but there’s a lot of choice out there atm.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 11, 2023, 08:02:00 PM: So, for brevity’s sake:
Kilchoan to Mallaig. Mostly wet
Mallaig Ferry to Armadale, Isle of Skye.
Rode up east coast of Skye, bit meh tbh.
Crossed the bridge to Kyle of Lochalsh. Wonderful and sunny.
Caught train from Kyle - Dingwall- Thurso. Brilliant scenery and a rest for my pins.
Thurso/Scrabster Ferry to Stromness/Orkney.
Clockwise ride around mainland. Wind not playing mcball!
Visited Scara Brae ancient settlement site. Fantastic.
Took Ferry to Rousey for a quick loop. Fail!
Wind was dreadful. Had to walk. Missed the last ferry. Overnighted in the Heritage centre (mcbrilliant)
07.45 Ferry to Tingwall then Kirkwall for a major breakfast.
Scrabster Ferry to Thurso and I’m now in Betty Hill. Heading west along part of the so called NC500.

Photos: Old Man of Hoy, Scara Brae, St Magnus, Kirkwall, Betty Hill beach.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 11, 2023, 09:18:43 PM: Wow, you really are on a Scottish Grand Tour. I think you've pretty much covered all the areas I've toured in Scotland, and a few I haven't, but I've done it over a twenty year period and eight tours!
I don't think I've met anyone who's been to Orkney when it wasn't windy, though I'm told it happens occasionally. Just as well there's plenty to see and do, we spent ten days, poor weather meant some of the planned islands were unreachable, we didn't ride anymore than we had too and still enjoyed it.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 11, 2023, 10:33:09 PM: Quote from: PH on April 11, 2023, 09:18:43 PM
Wow, you really are on a Scottish Grand Tour.

+1
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: John Saxby on April 11, 2023, 10:57:47 PM: And another +1 👍

On Orkney weather: Many of the factors of the Hudson's Bay Company were Orkney Islanders. Not sure the weather was much better, but they made huge contributions to Canadian history. John Rae was probably the most famous, but he was not alone.

Farley Mowat wrote an intriguing book, The Far-farers, an examination of unresolved questions from his research for Westviking. If you're taken by the Orkneys, you might enjoy the book: it was triggered when Mowat looked at an up-ended boat on an Orkney beach. The pointed oval matched the outline of a low stone wall he'd seen on the coast of Labrador, and which he'd been unable to explain. The Orkney boat, he reckoned, was the roof of a winter shelter. (!!) (Maybe if you were used to Orkney weather, it would've seemed a reasonable thing to do.) The Far-farers is a mix of speculation (conveniently italicised in the text) and evidence of early Northern-European settlement in northeastern Canada.

(No bikes in it, mind -- and even nowadays, getting to the coast of Labrador by bike is an arduous business, I'm told.)
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 11, 2023, 11:37:35 PM: Great pictures of Orkney.
I was there X2 last year .

Are you planning on passing through Aberdeen?

Best Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 13, 2023, 07:57:34 PM: Betty Hill was beautiful but her weather was dreadful 🌧️ 💨
7am I’m on the road.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5wSk25PYaSoYSBqG7?g_st=iw

The part following the River Naver was fabulous the rest was an endurance. Some very testing miles and weather through remote places.

After overnighting in Lairg and feasting well (inc a wee 🥃 one of which I’ve not had for years!)

I followed this route to Ullapool. It was spectacularly good. A few hills, a few gear 14 miles, a bit of free-wheeling and a 45kmh bit just for sheer fun. My best day so far.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/pGkLRNUtF18Mg9Uf8?g_st=com.apple.sharing.quick-note

A few photos en-route showing the spectacular terrain and the presence of a strange object in the sky 🌞

I had a moment in the tin church. I played a few hymns on the harmonium/pedal organ. You pump the organ’s bellows whilst playing the keyboard. My legs took a moment to adjust to using a different muscle group.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: JohnR on April 13, 2023, 08:56:16 PM: Quote from: in4 on April 13, 2023, 07:57:34 PM
Betty Hill was beautiful but her weather was dreadful 🌧️ 💨
7am I’m on the road.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5wSk25PYaSoYSBqG7?g_st=iw

The part following the River Naver was fabulous the rest was an endurance. Some very testing miles and weather through remote places.
That's the reverse of the route I pedalled on my LEJOG but I had the benefit of fair weather and a van to carry the baggage. While there are no nasty hills, a head wind in such an open area feels like going up a perpetual hill. How is the wind farm between Altnaharra and the Crask Inn progressing?
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 14, 2023, 08:52:35 AM: Betty Hill was beautiful but her weather was dreadful 🌧️ 💨
7am I’m on the road.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5wSk25PYaSoYSBqG7?g_st=iw

That's part of the route for my End2End of Scotland back in '14. That's 2014 - I'm not that old !
Fully self supported.......

I passed through Lairg recently and the camp site had gone. Where did you stay out of interest? Wild camp amongst the thistles?

Great trip - congratulations.

Best Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 14, 2023, 10:00:13 AM: One of the special privileges of belonging to a quality touring forum is the vicarious tours one can take in places you won't be returning to (or ever reach) through the members' never less than literate reports and always exceptional photographs.

My favourite in the latest two sets from Ian is the view of Old Man of Hoy, which I had off the deck of a dismasted yacht with all the electronics out, knowing by dead reckoning that we were in a dangerous situation, swinging a leadline from the bow so that pride in my navigation didn't drop us from catastrophe into a dangers of the seas statistic, as the mist suddenly parted to almost ten yards visibility. You'll understand that I like Ian's calm if rugged photograph much better than the feeling of all that granite enfolding my shipmates and me in the moment's glimpse that long-ago day before I ran for the wheel, shouting at my first mate to turn any which way, but to TURN. That was a closer acquaintance with the Old Man of Hoy than I ever wanted to have again.* Ian's photograph is closure.

*Full disclosure: I have a Goretex mountain jacket from Chris Bonington's firm, but have resisted the temptation to ask if Bonington wore that very jacket when he made the first ascent of the Old Man in 1966.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 14, 2023, 12:06:33 PM: Quote from: JohnR on April 13, 2023, 08:56:16 PM
Quote from: in4 on April 13, 2023, 07:57:34 PM
Betty Hill was beautiful but her weather was dreadful 🌧️ 💨
7am I’m on the road.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5wSk25PYaSoYSBqG7?g_st=iw

The part following the River Naver was fabulous the rest was an endurance. Some very testing miles and weather through remote places.
That's the reverse of the route I pedalled on my LEJOG but I had the benefit of fair weather and a van to carry the baggage. While there are no nasty hills, a head wind in such an open area feels like going up a perpetual hill. How is the wind farm between Altnaharra and the Crask Inn progressing?

Thanks for replying. The wind farm looks fully operational to me. Turbines turning slowly but relentlessly. On a good day the routes remoteness and bleakness would be quite appealing. In the unforgiving wind (emanating from the Devil’s own orifice) it was quite a challenge.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 14, 2023, 12:16:28 PM: Quote from: Matt2matt2002 on April 14, 2023, 08:52:35 AM
Betty Hill was beautiful but her weather was dreadful 🌧️ 💨
7am I’m on the road.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/5wSk25PYaSoYSBqG7?g_st=iw

That's part of the route for my End2End of Scotland back in '14. That's 2014 - I'm not that old !
Fully self supported.......

I passed through Lairg recently and the camp site had gone. Where did you stay out of interest? Wild camp amongst the thistles?

Hi Matt. I was pretty tired arriving in Lairg so I first ate in The Pier (a tad pretentious for this scruffed-up rider anyway) so I stayed in er the highland hotel. I appreciated being able to dry out, sleep in a bed and enjoy a whopping breakfast. Lovely ladies fed me well and let me use the garage for Henry.
TBH I wanted to wild camp as much as possible. Sure it’s a cheaper option but I really enjoy being self-contained and enjoy the non-campsite experience a lot. Plus, I get to practice playing my low d whistle.
Ha! I should worry about noise. Really decent bloke on my last campsite. Goodness knows how his wife caught a moments rest given the scrofuline noises throughout the night. Bless her forbearance and perhaps she’ll sew some walnuts into his pyjama top.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 14, 2023, 02:13:49 PM: More great stuff. The road along the Naver is one of my favorites, I've ridden it several times, apparently the other road to/from Altnaharra (Via Tongue) is almost as good, and is the NCN route. I've intended to ride that a couple of times, but the Naver route has tempted me away!
The road to Ullapool remains on my to do list, the only time I've been there was on the coach service that takes bikes (or did) on my way to the Hebrides. I'm encouraged that you liked it, if/when I get to do it, it won't be without some effort getting there without too much repeating of previous rides.
Your night in Lairg sound like proper luxury, when in the area I've either camped at the Crask Inn or a bit further south at Carbisdale Castle when it was a SYHA hostel. The breakfast at the Crask would match any, but breakfast at the castle, surrounded by Haggis Coach Tours full of US and Japanese youth made us keen to get back on the road!
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 14, 2023, 08:08:55 PM: Quote from: PH on April 14, 2023, 02:13:49 PM
More great stuff. The road along the Naver is one of my favorites, I've ridden it several times, apparently the other road to/from Altnaharra (Via Tongue) is almost as good, and is the NCN route. I've intended to ride that a couple of times, but the Naver route has tempted me away!
The road to Ullapool remains on my to do list, the only time I've been there was on the coach service that takes bikes (or did) on my way to the Hebrides. I'm encouraged that you liked it, if/when I get to do it, it won't be without some effort getting there without too much repeating of previous rides.
Your night in Lairg sound like proper luxury, when in the area I've either camped at the Crask Inn or a bit further south at Carbisdale Castle when it was a SYHA hostel. The breakfast at the Crask would match any, but breakfast at the castle, surrounded by Haggis Coach Tours full of US and Japanese youth made us keen to get back on the road!

I passed by the Crask Inn. Lovely folks. Offered me a free camp stop in their garden, I think it was June and as the chap pointed to the spot 20m away, I wondered why it was in a cloud. On closer inspection I found it to be midges!
Needless to say, I pushed on.
Needless to say, the ( same? ) midges were awaiting my arrival at my final camp site.

Interesting history to the Crask Inn. Others may know more than moi. I think it was connected to a church - or church folks ran it? It recently opened for the year so I suspect they close for the winter.

Cheers

Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 16, 2023, 08:47:24 AM: https://g.co/kgs/DH4QeX

Had a great night’s stay here. Spectacular scenery to enjoy.
Save for the Bratitude of a Reception girl (clearly temping from her course in Tik-Tok/Whateverology at the University of Surlyface) who in fairness was probably just having an off day, I’d stay again without reservation. Decent showers too.

I was up with the lark so rode into Ullapool itself and bought my ferry ticket. Time for a ubiquitous coffee too. It’s years since I was in Ullapool and even with some development it remains a lovely place. A memory lapse precluded me from remembering the B&B a mate and I used on our last visit. It was a pretty decent save for the lady of the house who smoked her own kippers around the back and finished off every sentence spoken with a worrying, manic laugh! 😂

Stornaway was way to wet to start a day’s riding so I took a look around, ate some great fish and chips and stayed in a B&B overnight.

The next morning the sun had come out to play. I was booted, suited and gone. Quite a long but fabulous day’s ride up to the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse and an overnight stop at a campsite in Shawbost.

Some spectacular and barren landscapes interspersed with great sea views, cliffs and beaches. 67 miles all told. One of my best days so far. Incidentally much of this route forms part of The Hebridean Way.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 16, 2023, 10:00:40 AM: Nice pix. I stayed in Stornoway but never attempted the Butt. Too far for a round trip and weather had closed in so didn't fancy a soggy night camping out.

Heading South now? All the way to Castlebay? I've done it both ways. I think it was easier heading South.

Some ferries didn't ask for payment. They just wanted ££ from the car folks.

Best Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 24, 2023, 07:38:23 PM: After leaving Shawbost I continued to head South, on The Hebridean Way. Contrary to convention (moi? Surely not!) travelling south usually entails enduring the south-westerly winds. I’d clearly appeased the Wind Deities as I enjoyed pleasant North-easterly winds. Additionally the weather was unseasonable warm with lots of sunshine. My first time riding through Harris was an absolute joy. Misty-eyed for miles and feeling thankful for my good fortune. Down past the Callanish Stones before heading east and then south west, sharing words of encouragement to fellow riders doing it the proper way round.
My euphoria was gently extinguished by The Clisham, a huge unforgiving ‘hill with no end’ just before Tarbert. Tiredness and a lack of high church resolve meant I had to get off and push for most of the hill. Younger, fitter, less laden riders can do it but me? No chance.

I must have looked a rather bedraggled sort when I arrived at the servo, just before Tarbert. ‘Is there a campsite anywhere near?’ I asked the lovely lady behind the counter. She said ‘no, but would you like to camp on our croft just down the hill?’ So, I got a loch view all to myself and a piece of cake from two passing bird watchers. The kindness of Strangers, personified.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Danneaux on April 24, 2023, 08:33:20 PM: Fantastic, wonderful photos and write-ups, Ian. I'm truly enjoying your installments!

All the best, tailwinds and godspeed,

Dan.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 25, 2023, 09:56:55 AM: More excellent stuff, great photos. It's hard to tour the Hebrides without repeating roads, some of the best bits require riding out and back, with no loops, or maybe that's just my excuse to keep going back. You're probably already on your way, but South of Tarbert is a tough choice, the contrast between the East and West coasts is striking, gives some understanding to the clearances. Both great rides in their own way, just so different they could be 100's of miles apart rather than a couple.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 25, 2023, 12:13:26 PM: Ha ha. I recall that hill. Done it both ways.
Broken many a man!

I camped at Lickisto
Interesting spot. Changed hands since my stay but lovely location.
Then waited at Leverburgh for 4 days looking for a boat ride to St. Kilda. Weather against me. But I'll be back.

Great pictures

Best
Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 26, 2023, 12:29:04 AM: Super write-up, excellent photos. May all your hills run downhill, Ian!
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: John Saxby on April 26, 2023, 04:02:54 PM: Grand tour and photos, Ian -- love the skies!! Looks like 'enery's 'avin' a grand time too.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 26, 2023, 09:26:56 PM: My next stop was here:
Horgabost Campsite
01859 550386
https://maps.app.goo.gl/NwvvJj64pAbfoDH77?g_st=ic
Probably one of the most lovely sites I’ve stayed on. Technically, well actually it was closed, until 1st May but a quick phone call etc.
Wonderful beaches and views.
A quite short ride led me to a lovely if windswept site adjacent to this RSPB reserve
RSPB Balranald
01876 560287
https://maps.app.goo.gl/TyAVQjgB76KpUHgx8?g_st=ic

I was up quite early and rode like the clappers to make the early ferry to Berneray. Unknown to me the tides had different plans and decided it would not allow the early ferry to run. So, 14.30 it was.
Berneray is tiny but so beautiful. I found a fabulous wild camp site too.

East Beach
https://maps.app.goo.gl/1oyEam2dukSa5n3P7?g_st=ic

Just me and a campervan. The occupants were in an advanced state of refreshment so I left them to it.
Then there was the Architect from Paris…;)
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: in4 on April 27, 2023, 07:57:47 PM: With a few final miles through North and South Uist (thank you north easterly winds)
I took the ferry to Barra. Stayed at a lovely but dreadfully windy site at Borva, near Castlebay for two nights. I’d have left a day earlier but I wanted to complete The Hebridean Way which entailed a further ride over to Vatersay Island. Cutting winds made the riding interesting. I’d left my panniers at the campsite so Henry felt relatively twitchy. A lot of gusting necessitated a firm grip on the handlebars and plenty of concentration. All went well though and my sense of achievement was tinged with a ‘what next’ sensation.The ‘what next’ bit amounts to a partial reverse of my route but if the weather perks up I’ll take in the English Lake District.

Thus ends the tour tale. I hope it’s been an entertaining and useful read. I’ll gladly share any other details if anyone is interested.

1. Be nice to your knees and gear low
2. Eat like you mean it
3. Drink a lot of water
4. Do you really need all that in your panniers?
5. Put insulating foam tubing on your top bar ( keeps your bike nice when you tie it down on the ferries)
6. Carry a ratchet strap or bungee cords as for 5.
7. Smell the air, enjoy the far horizons and be thankful for the opportunity to experience both.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: PH on April 27, 2023, 10:09:42 PM: Congrats on completing the Hebridean Way, it has been fantastically entertaining following your progress, guessing where you'd head next (And usually being wrong) Thanks for thread, it brought back some memories and a desire to return.
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Matt2matt2002 on April 27, 2023, 10:33:56 PM: Quote from: PH on April 27, 2023, 10:09:42 PM
Congrats on completing the Hebridean Way, it has been fantastically entertaining following your progress, guessing where you'd head next (And usually being wrong) Thanks for thread, it brought back some memories and a desire to return.

+1 from me as well.
You've convinced me to return.

Best Matt
Title: Re: Henry is off the lead!
Post by: Andre Jute on April 27, 2023, 10:46:28 PM: Quote from: PH on April 27, 2023, 10:09:42 PM
Congrats on completing the Hebridean Way, it has been fantastically entertaining following your progress, guessing where you'd head next (And usually being wrong) Thanks for thread, it brought back some memories and a desire to return.

+1.

What an achievement, what a tale, what photographs! Thanks for the ride, Ian.