Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Thorn General => Topic started by: ourclarioncall on December 01, 2020, 03:37:45 PM
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Anyone care to give a top ten ? Or top 5 or even just one good tip for newbies entering the world of Thorn and touring bikes ?
For example , things you wish you knew befor you bought a bike, things you regret , things you changed quickly afterwards,
This can include stuff like choice of lights or not , racks etc
In other words your son says “dad, I’ve saved up 4 grand , I’m away to sjs to buy a Thorn tommorow”
You quickly and firmly put your hand on his shoulder and say
“woah horsie !, let’s just sit down and discuss a few things first....
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Tip no. 10 - Read and act on tip number two.
Tip no. 2 - Contact Thorn and discuss your requirements
Tip no. 1 - Go and buy your dream bike - You'll have either *14 days or 100 days to return your new steed if you do not like it ( * depending on whether derailleur or Rohloff equipped )
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Get fitted! I did and found the 590L Nomad more comfortable than the 565L, my original choice.
Personally I don’t like the son 28 piggyback connectors. Expensive, fiddly and the ‘weak link’ in a hub dynamo setup. Think there’s a co-ax option. Most other things are probably chosen according to taste and intended usage. Nomad wise: The Mk3 offers a great range of options; derailleur, rohloff, disc brakes et.al.
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If buying a Rohloff - go for the Chainglider.
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If buying a Rohloff equipped bicycle, do not go for a Chainglider.
If buying an Audax bicycle buy a red one or a blue one or a grey one.
If Buying a Club Tour buy any colour as long as YOU like it.
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The three zeros after the £3 are really a misprint... honest.
If you keep it for long enough it will start to make you money....
If the model you really want is a bit more expensive than the one you are about to buy, stop and get the one you want or it will cost a fortune later.
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Deciding on the frame size is the easy part of the ordering exercise. Other aspects to be decided upon, in a fairly rational sequence, include:
1. Handlebars: Drops, straights or my favourite Humpert/Ergotec AHS bars? (Note that handlebar choice feeds into frame size while handlebar height affects how much is cut off the steerer prior to fitting).
2. Tyre width: Wider tyres may have a bit more rolling resistance but smooth out the bumps better and are also better in off-road conditions.
3. Wheel size: Smaller wheels make it easier to fit bigger tyres into a given frame.
4. Brakes: Disc brakes provide more reliable stopping power but a front disc brake may require stiffer forks. Disc brakes aren't troubled by wider tyres.
5. Tubeless or not?: Tubeless saves a little weight, slightly improves the ride and rolling resistance and makes smaller punctures self-sealing. However, it needs compatible rims and tyres and, as I've discovered, fitting tubeless tyres can be challenging if you don't have a big compressor (choice of rim may be a factor).
6. Rims: To suit both the brakes, proposed tyre size and any desire for tubeless compatibility.
7. Gears and gearing: In addition to the derailleur vs Rohloff hub argument, what gearing range is wanted? If you haven't learnt about gear-inches now is the time to investigate the subject.
8. Crank length: Listen to Thorn's advice.
9. Saddle: Select whatever works for your riding position similar to that on your proposed bike.
10. Accessories: Many accessories (eg rack and mudguards) can be easily added later although a dynohub is part of the wheel selection.
The objective is to avoid subsequent regrets and minimise the extra cost of fine-tuning.
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Decide if you want a kickstand.
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A work colleague told me about Thorn and the Rohloff hub. I eventually bought a Nomad MK2 from Thorn as a ‘bomb proof’ leisure/gp (as opposed to full on expedition) bike spec’d with the lightest weight Ryde Grizzly rims, XT V brakes, 2” Dureme tyres, Thorn rear rack and Son 28/Edelux.
I considered the Raven but preferred the external transfer box setup on the Nomad and of course Tonka Yellow!
Regrets.
Firstly, Agonising too long over buying a Rohloff equipped bike. The pay off starts immediately from low maintenance and the joy of uncomplicated (no double shifting) speedy and reliable gear changing (albeit with a few idiosyncrasies). Fast sequential gear shifting (cf F1 cars 😳) enables knee-saving cadence according to the terrain. On mixed terrain group rides the two Rohloff equipped bikes carry on carrying on whilst all around us derailleur gears are crunching, shedding and jamming chains twixt frame and chainrings.
Secondly, Not heedingThorn’s advice to future proof the hub for just £20 extra for the disc brake version of the Rohloff.
Lastly, Not a regret really, but in hindsight I didn’t NEED a dynamo light but I got carried away though the Son 28 dynohub is very nice 🙂 has high quality bearings, cf Hope, and is there if ever I want to charge a phone etc.
Changes
Replaced Thorn expedition rear rack with Tubus Vega.
Replaced original 2” Dureme tyres with 1.6 Marathon Supreme.
Raised bars very slightly by flipping bar stem and lowering 2cm down steerer. I didn’t like the look of the way Thorn had attached the stem horizontally from the top of the steerer tube.
Changed rear V brake to TRP disc but not the Grizzly rim brake rim so I can easily switch back to rim brake if desired.
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If the model you really want is a bit more expensive than the one you are about to buy, stop and get the one you want or it will cost a fortune later.
This is my No 1 - Buying the right thing is IMO always the best value.
No 2 - Is probably to not let anyone else tell you what the right thing is! That's not to say don't listen to others opinions, but to use those to form your own rather than some blind trust that what works for them will work for you.
No 3 - Don't beat yourself up if you get it wrong. I can look at a spec and geometry sheet now and have a pretty good idea if it'll do what I want from it, but it's taken a few errors to get there.
No 4 - Never forget it's just a bike a bike is a bike. It's only a very small part of the pleasure of cycling.
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Good stuff , thanks guys 👍