Thorn Cycles Forum
Community => Thorn General => Topic started by: jcabuckley on June 27, 2007, 12:44:03 AM
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hi guys, having had an xtc for a matter of months, i'm converted and i've just upgraded to a rohloff equipped raven tour but i need some rather simple advice as i would like to change round some of the componentry. what i'd like to do firstly is change the v-brakes but on the rear there is a cable guide for the rohloff gears. do i have to completely dismantle this to remove it or is there an easier way? (i've tried loosening the cable and twisting, this works so far but i'm scared it'll damage the cables) also i'll need some new grips..... any suggestions??? thanks in advance, jonathan
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Welcome to the world of Rohloff.
If you have straight or comfort bars then I would recommend changing to one of the Ergon grips with a flat platform extension.
I find mine very comfy to ride with.
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thanks for that! would i get them from sjscycles? any idea about my other problem? regards....
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Hi jcabuckley,
I think it is possible to remove the cable guide without removing the bayonet connectors. First you need to uncouple both bayonets then fully unscrew the adjustment screws on the cable guide. You should now be able to get an allen key in past both cables and undo the cable guide.
I am almost certain that I have done this myself once - but it has being a while. I will try it again tonight and get back to you.
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hi stutho, thanks for that, i'll look forward to your next post! i have a feeling the adjustment screws (2 of them, right?) are pretty firmly set though. kind regards, jb
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I am sorry I don't know the answer to your question regarding the rohloff rear cable guide - maybe best to ask SJS for guidance.
Here is a link to the Ergon grips I use, they are available from SJS.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-0-Ergon-GP1-L-Anatomic-Grips-MENS--per-pair--Black-11704.htm
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I'm afraid I can't comment on the cable.
However for grips I did a lot of experimenting on my RST and settled on locking grips and Cane Creek Bar ends http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Cane-Creek-Cane-Creek-Ergo-Control-Bar-End-Grip-II-per-pair--Black-11062.htm
The locking grips I have were from Syntace, however they're very hard to get hold of in the UK. When these wear out I intend to try http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-Cane-Creek-Cane-Creek-Lock-On-Grips-for-ROHLOFF-Bikes-ONLY--per-pair-11672.htm which look similar
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Lardy,
These are OK IMO but they are pricey for what they are and the shifter grip is already beginning to show signs of wear on a set that I bought only 4 months ago. I haven't done that much cycling of late either outside of my daily commute.
I intend trying Julk's above recommendation next time around.
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I'll second the Ergons - really comfortable (for me) - no wrist ache/pain at all. Used on comfort bars.
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thanks for all your input guys, the cane creek ones are more up my alley but they are a bit pricey! might get out the hack-saw and DIY as i'm a tight scotsman! lol
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Ergons with Cane Creek bar ends on straight bars (shortened) very comfortable.
However I have changed my saddle position further back and may need to shorten the stem a little. Also I think I might try comfort bars for a change.
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I've been experimenting with the Ergon grips and SJSs version of ergo bar ends
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lkid/3/product-0-SJSC-Ergo-Control-Bar-End-Grip--per-pair--Black-13134.htm
Both excellent on their own, but sadly for me with my big hands unusable together. I'm still not sure which I prefer. I'd like to try the Crane Creek bar ends, but only if I can borrow a pair.
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quote:
Originally posted by jcabuckley
but on the rear there is a cable guide for the rohloff gears. do i have to completely dismantle this to remove it or is there an easier way? (i've tried loosening the cable and twisting, this works so far but i'm scared it'll damage the cables)
There's no need to twist, the fitting is held by an allen head screw. Which as stutho thinks you can access with the cables in place. You need to remove the adjusting screws that the cables pass through which should be easy to turn, easier with the cable outers pulled clear.
On the other hand - it's been noted on this forum that the screws in the bayonet fittings are prone to seize, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove them from time to time.
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great stuff PH, i'll give it a bash tomorrow and let you know how i get on!
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quote:
On the other hand - it's been noted on this forum that the screws in the bayonet fittings are prone to seize, it wouldn't be a bad idea to remove them from time to time.
Jcabuckley,
If you do remove the bayonets it is worth putting some copper grease on the grub screws (reduces the chance of it seizing in the future). However like PH (and I) have said you can remove the guide without removing the bayonets - I tried it again last night just to be sure!
NB
You will need a proper Allen key (Not a hex bit and driver)
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hi guys, firstly can i confirm that i'm singing from the same hymn sheet..... the left rear vee brake has the rohloff cable guide, firstly you twist the hub connector bits to seperate them and then undoo the 2 grub screws on the upper part, is this right so far? i have managed to undoo 3 of the 4 grub screws but typically the 4th one rounded! i still couldn't see how this could work though. Is it just a case of me being really thick! lol. some more input would be great and thanks again so far.
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I had to replace my cable outer on one of the rohloff control cables, both small hex grub screws on the bayonet fitting rounded, holding up the job while i sprayed penetrating oil onto it at periodic intervals over a day. My vain hope being that i broke the seal.
The problem here is the alloy the bayonet is made of, you get a reaction with the steel of the grub screw and being small you cant get enough torque on a hex key to break it, hence rounding.
I went to an extreme after failing with the oil.
After protecting the frame; went to the bayonet with my small pencil flame blowtorch on a low flame setting, after 30 seconds heating i got the pliers onto the bayonet to get the hex key in and the bayonet.......melted in the grip of the pliers. Onto the phone to sjs for a bayonet fitting, you get both halves, seems unless you do coat liberally in copper grease, these parts are consumables.
I had a similar metalalurgy experience in the 80s with a 2nd hand vitus aluminium frame that had the h/bar stem frozen in place, making it non-adjustable!
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ah the lovely mix of steel and aluminium, gives you a warm feeling inside.
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okay, had another go and two of the grub screws have seized, one in each bayonet so i'm screwed doing it that way! aparently there is another way...... can anyone help me? all i want to be able to do is remove my v-brakes and swap them for some more powerful xtr ones. there's a pint in it for ya!
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Just bit the bullet and ordered the spares from sjs, oh well...........
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Hi jabuckley,
(I PMed you yesterday but I don't think you got my message so I will echo it here)
You are right – you don’t need to remove the grub screws on the bayonets to remove the V's
Step 1 Disconnect both bayonet (quarter twist the two halves of each connector)
Step 2 Fully unscrew both adjustment screws on the cable guide
Step 3 Using a 4mm Allen Key undo the cable guide - the Allen key WILL fit past the gear cables
Step 4 Remove V brakes
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Re-assembly
Step 5 Hold the cable guide at the correct angle with a 13mm spanner while tightening with the 4mm Allen key.
Step 6 Fully screw in both adjustment screws (take care here it is easy to cross thread)
Step 7 Reconnect the bayonets
Step 8 Re-adjusts the adjustment screws to give about 2mm play in the shifter)
Stuart
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Stutho, as usual that's really excellent and timely advice. I'm in the process of swapping to avid ultimates and would have exactly the same issue later this week. Thanks for your contributions to this forum.
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Good luck with the Ultimates - I have them on my bike. Reversing the rear brake noodle really helps cable routing.
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Stutho
I just posted the same question on Brakes section.
I am looking at the Avid Ultimate to try to help out my Dia-Compe 287v (****e) levers on the front wheel.
Before I spend >£60 on 1 pair of brakes I want to make sure I get some benefit.
Do you get some noticebale benefit?
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thanks for that stutho, i ordered the replacements this morning but i'll give this a go and the others will be fine for spares. thanks again!