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Muppets Threads! (And Anything Else) / Re: GoPro alternative
« Last post by JohnR on Today at 12:07:57 pm »
Bullet cam https://www.chilli-tech.com/action-cameras? The new version has the option for a cable to an external battery but doesn't mention the limit to the size of the memory card if wanting to record all day. I tried one of the older bullet cams which made me realise how much I wobbled from side to side when pedalling! I suspect that the image stabilisation on the more expensive of the new models doesn't compensate for wobble.

I can't recommend specific editing software. I would start with whatever is available for free and see if it does the job. If not, this exercise helps getting to know what features are needed in any paid-for software.
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I see that the sliding dropouts face forwards https://www.tritoncycles.co.uk/frames-forks-c6/road-frames-c47/cross-check-frameset-p17171/s50822. I would be happy to use the OEM axleplate provided the support block is to the rear of the axle (ie deepest into the U-shaped dropout) and the axle remains well within the dropout. The other way round might also be acceptable depending on the thickness of metal in the dropout. How long is the dropout compared to the length of the axleplate?

Rohloff's guidance on torque anchoring is at https://www.rohloff.de/en/service/handbook/speedhub/assembly/torque-anchoring. I once got stuck into some material strength calculations before deciding that if one of the torque anchor options is a bolt through a rack support hole then the force can't be massive compared with the strength of steel otherwise the M5 bolt holding one of these https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/rohloff-oem2-adapter-for-m5-fender-luggage-rack-bolt-8552/ would shear off.
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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Help - I'm confused about cranks
« Last post by B cereus on Today at 08:09:56 am »
Have you purchased the Trickstuff Exzentriker?  I’ve not seen one in the flesh but it looks as though it comes with the bearings pre-installed in the eccentrics. External bearings seem to be more susceptible to water ingress than the internal bearings of conventional square taper cartridges; I trust that the bearings are both well sealed and easily replaceable.

Given also that the bearing housing is designed to thread into a standard BSA BB (1.37in X 24TPI), and the male threaded inserts will further reduce this diameter, there cannot be a great deal of adjustment to move the 24mm crank spindle backwards or forwards. Presumably you will need to use half links, or am I missing something.

It also seems that the drive side and non drive side eccentrics are independently adjustable. How do you ensure that the two bearings are concentic and the crank spindle is perpendicular to the vertical plane of the bicycle? 

All in all, it look to me to be a solution to a problem that could be solved more easily and more cheaply by other means. Is there any reason why you cannot use a chain tensioner?

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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Help - I'm confused about cranks
« Last post by mickeg on May 01, 2024, 09:05:20 pm »
Can't help with that.  All the bikes I built up have square taper.  My only non square taper crank is on my road bike that I bought as a complete bike, I have not had any reason to remove it yet.
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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Help - I'm confused about cranks
« Last post by PH on May 01, 2024, 08:32:45 pm »
Any MTB crankset will be fine, the outer positions on doubles and triples is almost identical. You can always push it out another mm or two with the washers that come with the hub.
I like mine perfect, with ST cranks, chainring washers and BB washers and an EBB that can be run a bit off center it's always possible.  A bit of a faff, but do it once and always replace like with like and it on;y needs doing once.  I've a feeling Rohloff have relaxed their attitude to chainline, I recall them making a bigger thing about it's importance. 
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Thanks everyone.
I guess my question is - is the torque going to bend the drop out? Or is this probably ok? Anyone done /tried anything similar?
I'd say probably OK, but do you want to ride around without the certainty?  If it were me, I'd put the money you are going to spend on the trick EBB towards having a framebuilder swap the dropouts for proper sliding Rohloff ones. 
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Muppets Threads! (And Anything Else) / GoPro alternative
« Last post by Matt2matt2002 on May 01, 2024, 02:29:26 pm »
Hi folks.
Another tour looming so need to replace my expired GoPro.
Any suggestions for a cheap n cheerful brand.
Nothing fancy or GoPro priced.

Also, tips for editing clips together appreciated.

Best
Matt
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The Surly Straggler, the successor to the discontinued Cross Check that has the same basic geometry but runs disc brakes, is generally regarded as a Rohloff-ready frame. It would be interesting to know whether the dropouts on the Straggler really were beefed up in the processing of including disc-brake mounts, compared to the old Cross Check.
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Looks like you asked the question that I was typing the answer to before you asked, just as I was about to hit post.
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The OEM axel plate fits fine in the horizontal drop out on my bike. It’s not a Rohloff specific dropout. But it fits. The bike is a steel frame Surly Cross Check.
Is there any reason this won’t work and provide the required torque anchoring?
Keen to do this as it means I could loose the long torque arm.
(Also I know it will mean I need some other way of achieving chain tension).

If I recall correctly, Cross Check is not a disc brake bike, thus the frame is not designed to take the torque from a Rohloff.  If you are in first gear and pedaling hard up a hill, there is a lot of torque on the frame.

I did an internet search for broken bicycle frames with roholff hubs and here is an example:
https://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=14014.0

Dan had a good post on that thread with reference to Rohloff site:
...
...
Quote
How exactly does a Rohloff increase torque anyway?
The Rohloff's torque reaction arm or tab serves to counter the forward torque applied to the hub under drive. The internal gearing of the hub also multiplies torque on the tab, so there is additional stress applied to the portion of the frame where the torque arm or tab is attached/contained. Rohloff provide a good explanation here:
https://www.rohloff.de/en/service/handbook/speedhub/assembly/torque-anchoring#c26000

Best,

Dan.

Rohloffs have been around for much longer than bike disc brakes, but disc brakes also put a lot of torque on the frame, so there have been other options created to mount the hub on disc brake hub frames.  In your case the torque arm is the only option if the frame was not designed for the torque.
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