Thorn Cycles Forum
Technical => General Technical => Topic started by: spoon boy on December 27, 2008, 11:47:05 am
-
I have seen these on many dutch bikes, koga obviously and wondered if they would fit on a sherpa before I order one
As a quick lock it looks okay
-
No takers then?
-
i dont think i've seen that particular lock spoon boy,i think the cable lock would be better,at least you could secure the bike to something solid like a tree .pole /railings or whatever .
so have you tryed your sherpa fully loaded yet,what about some pic's .
-
the axa also has a recepticle to allow an additional cable that plugs into the lock as well as locking the wheel
I will post some pictures jag when my last package from sjs comes within the next few days
-
Old thread, still an appealing idea, so...
I considered a ring-lock for my Sherpa, but finally rejected the idea when I couldn't figure how to fit it. The Zefal HPX pump precludes fitting it forward of the seatstays, and it doesn't appear a mount for the brake-bosses will clear the rack stays (and that puts the lock outside the frame, which seems vulnerable to me).
Has anyone yet managed to fit a ring-lock on a Sherpa?
Best,
Dan.
-
On my Thorn Nomad Mk2 - but I don't use the Zefal, replaced it with a Lezyne Road Drive medium. No brake bolt hole so I have the lock that fits to the seat stays with heavy plastic screw-clamp loops. It is a great lock to have there, ready to use with just a key-turn. I can add a cable lock through the latch-bolt to lock it to a pole, or use a cable on the front to have both wheels locked.
(http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/46431/2375658940074746151S600x600Q85.jpg) (http://sports.webshots.com/photo/2375658940074746151uOtmpi)
-
I have a similar lock on my Azor city bike and it really is very convenient!
Is that an ABUS Amparo 4850 Frame Lock? Looking at bike24, I see three mounting versions, LH, SP, and CL. Which is yours?
-
Here's a video on installing the AXA lock:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGYt7SDTZOo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGYt7SDTZOo)
-
I have a similar lock on my Azor city bike and it really is very convenient!
Is that an ABUS Amparo 4850 Frame Lock? Looking at bike24, I see three mounting versions, LH, SP, and CL. Which is yours?
Mine is the NKR with CL mount. NKR means non-key-retained, I take the key away with me on my key ring.
-
The AXA Defender looks rather too narrow for the tires I have on my Nomad & that one would likely have on a Sherpa:
(http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_6763-500x500.JPG)
while the Abus 4850 can handle at least a Schwalbe Extreme 26x2 tire:
http://travellingtwo.com/resources/wheel-locks-for-bike-touring (http://travellingtwo.com/resources/wheel-locks-for-bike-touring)
-
The narrowest point on my Abus Amparo is ~61mm wide. But the widest is not much different, due to the plastic blocks the fastening straps feed through. 61mm is still a good width.
-
Thanks, guys, for all the measurements, input, and illustrations; they are surely helpful!
I found a nice illustration of the AXA on a v-brake mount here: http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=220
Still, I still don't think I can fit a ring-lock to Sherpa at the usual location! I'd have to give up my HPX pump to mount it in front of the stays, and there doesn't appear to be enough clearance beneath the rear rack stays to clear the lock if I mount it to the v-brakes (a location that is outside the frame and therefore vulnerable).
After reading your notes, I pondered placing it atop the chainstays, but I think I might be about 3mm shy of the lock body clearing the bottom of the front derailleur when it is on the small chainring. It looks like I would have enough chain clearance, and it appears a ring-lock there would also clear the chainrings and left crankarm. It would keep the weight low on the frame and still be secure inside the rear triangle. I'm guessing I'd need the NKR version like you got, Pete; the key might just clear the chainrings when un/locking. Would water intrusion be a problem with the lock horizontal in this location if I use fenders? Maybe an Amparo like yours would differ just enough to make it possible.
Jim...I sure appreciate those photo-measurements on the AXA Defender. That 50mm opening is narrower than my fenders, but I could work the lock around them for installation. If I could get the tire profile to fit mostly in the 63mm part of the slot, then I might be okay (my 2.0 Duremes are 47mm wide at medium pressure on my Andras). I could always remove/insert the rear wheel with the tire deflated and then pump it up in situ. I'll have to measure this tomorrow morning when I can better see the clearances involved.
Best,
Dan.
-
Wouldn't this type of mount do it for your Sherpa? Rack stays can always be bent and modified to some extent. Tubus are good for that.
(http://www.dutchbikebits.com/image/cache/data/100_7893-500x500.JPG)
-
Ah, that's the photo I mentioned in the link above. It looks about perfect at first, Pete, but there's two potential problems...
1) It is a bit hard to tell from the photo, but there may not be enough room below my rack stays to clear the top of the lock on one of these mounts. On the other hand, it just might. So much depends on camera angle. I'll measure Sherpa in full daylight tomorrow so I'll know my clearances (my Friday evening is your Saturday afternoon).
2) I'm a bit concerned about the lock being secure against damage or theft where it is outside the frame tubing (i.e. atop the rear v-brake mounts. It looks a bit vulnerable to prying or cutting and I'm not sure about the mounting bolts, but they appear to be shielded. By any chance, have you seen a lock mounted on one of these adapters? I sure wish I had one to look at in person.
Thanks for the suggestions, Pete, they're good ones. Always open to more ideas!
Best,
Dan.
-
I think the idea with these locks is that the mounting to the frame is just for convenience but not part of the security system. The ABUS CL mount looks like just plastic & thus easily cut. But that's a waste of the thief's time because the bike still can't be ridden away.
These locks have auxiliary cables or chains so the bike can be secured to a tree or whatever. The ABUS cable is only 100 cm. My Krypoflex cable is 200 cm and some. I am thinking I could just secure one loop of the Kryptoflex in the shackle of the ABUS. Not as elegant as the auxiliary cable clamp the lock provides, but the extra cable length is useful.
-
Jim,
I don't know if this will help, but I have a 3/8"/.95cm x 7'/2.1m long vinyl-covered cable. I took it to a place that makes choker cables for logging and had them create a third loop in the middle and put a crimp on it so it would stay. The cable is no more secure than before, but it is much more versatile, giving two loops for one cable. I can use it with a U-lock on the rear to lock the front wheel and lock the bike to an object too large for the U-lock if nothing smaller is available. If there is a post sized appropriately for the U-lock then I use the extra loop to secure my saddle. It worked nicely during my many years of commuting to university, but is bulky enough to fill the outline of a daypack interior and weighs 1.87lb/ .85kg.
When I don't use the extra loop, I have the full length to employ as I wish.
If your Kryptoflex isn't self-coiling, this might be a helpful mod to consider; it cost me only USD$5 and doubled the cable's usefulness.
Best,
Dan.
-
I think the idea with these locks is that the mounting to the frame is just for convenience but not part of the security system. The ABUS CL mount looks like just plastic & thus easily cut. But that's a waste of the thief's time because the bike still can't be ridden away.
Yes, it is not an ultimate-secure lock, but if the mounts are ever cut (tricky without severely damaging the frame) the lock is still on the wheel. And I have pitlocks as well, so the wheel can't be removed.
These locks have auxiliary cables or chains so the bike can be secured to a tree or whatever. The ABUS cable is only 100 cm. My Krypoflex cable is 200 cm and some. I am thinking I could just secure one loop of the Kryptoflex in the shackle of the ABUS. Not as elegant as the auxiliary cable clamp the lock provides, but the extra cable length is useful.
I have this cable. The cable can be looped around the pole like this and the end can be placed in the lock.
(http://www.google.com.au/url?source=imglanding&ct=img&q=http://www.industrialbicycles.com/images/LK5034.jpg&sa=X&ei=xpkjT9D0LYGSiQeKkOH7BA&ved=0CAwQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNE-1WK3k6N412lP3KMkxlyPKe3w7A)
-
Hi All!
Finally figured how to free-up space in my Sherpa for a ring-lock *and* use the Zefal HPX pump. Yay!
See: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3896.msg19454#msg19454
...and...
http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4148.msg18856#msg18856
Best,
Dan.
-
Hi All!
For those who like the summary first, I have settled on an AXA Defender ring-lock, a 1.5m/10mm core plug-in cable, and the option to carry my Kryptonite Evo-2000 U-lock. Add Atomic22 security fasteners ( http://atomic22.com/ yet to be ordered); locking wheel skewers and a custom Atomic22 bolt for the Tout Terrain The Plug 2, and the Plug2/PAT cable/steerer/fork/stem/Thorn Accessory T-bar/front mudguard/SON28 dynohub are all secured. Add two more Atomic 22 bolts, and the IQ Cyo R is secured as well. The motion-detecting alarm will tell me if someone tampers with the bags or bike and will hopefully serve as a deterrent.
For those wishing a bit more detail, read on...
After finding a way to mount a ring lock on my Sherpa and use my Zefal HPX2 frame pump, I started the search in earnest for the best ring-lock for my needs. I may have outsmarted myself, but here is the reasoning for my choice, which has me feeling a bit uneasy at present...
A ring-lock is ideal for preventing a snatch-and-grab ride-away theft when you're off the bike (assuming the ring-lock is...locked). The bike can still be removed by carrying the rear wheel, but it cannot be ridden. The concept really appealed a couple weeks ago when I stopped on a bridge to remove the cycling tights I had over my shorts. While I was immobilized with one leg still in the tights, a passerby pointed out he could have taken the bike. An ideal situation for a ring-lock.
Of course, the ring-lock alone does nothing to secure the bike to a stationary object. For that, you need to choose a ring-lock that accepts a plug-in cable (for lesser security) or chain (for higher security), alone or combined with another lock if the bike is to be left alone for a time. After reading a number of German and Dutch bicycle lock and security tests, there appear to be three real candidates for secure ringlocks that will also accept plug-in cables of chains (in no particular order):
1) AXA Defender http://www.axacompany.com/EE/en/axasite/products
2) Abus Amparo 4850 http://www.abus.de/us/main.asp?ScreenLang=us&sid=135845364082613220520125013763107&select=0104b04&ArtikelGrID=10
3) Trelock RS 445 AZ P (ZR 405) http://www.trelock.de/web/en/produkte/fahrrad-schloesser/rahmenschloesser/8002528_RS_445_AZ_P_%28ZR_405%29.php
After a lot of thought, careful measurement, and examination, I went with the AXA Defender for these reasons:
1) Available in all-black to blend in well with the Sherpa's matte black finish; I decided to go with the surprise element here.
2) Low-profile, ergonomic lock lever won't catch on floppy rain pants.
3) Forward-facing actuation slot to minimize possibility of dirt-clogging.
4) Alternative ATB mount with standoff to prevent grit and corrosion from getting between the lock and seatstays, and allows ready removal and replacement if needed. The default "spam-key" straps are good for only one mounting, and the plastic retainers on the Abus aren't intended for repeated installations and removals. Pics of the ATB mount with video here:
http://www.cantitoeroad.com/locks/frame-locks-mounting-hardware/atb-mounting-set-for-defender-frame-lock
5) Symmetrical design that appealed to me.
6) Right-angle or folding keys; either has a low, no-snag profile within the ring-lock outline.
7) By default, the key is retained when the lock is open, so I won't forget my key at home. A wrist coil will keep it with me off the (locked) bike.
9) Three height-adjustable mounting slots to allow exact placement with the fender clearance I have.
9) Narrower opening than Aubus or Trelock makes for greater shielding of the lock-ring from bolt cutters. At 50mm, the opening will just accept my 26x2.0 Schwalbe Dureme (47mm actual section width), and the widest opening of 63mm is equal to the Abus, leaving 16mm total clearance or 8mm per side at the widest part of the tire. To avoid fouling the v-brake pads, I often insert and remove the rear wheel when the tire when is partially inflated, so clearance shouldn't be a problem.
10) (Allegedly) no rattles on rough roads when the lock is open (I have read isolated reports of the Abus being a bit noisy in some samples, though the majority seem to be quiet).
11) Greater variety of plug-in cable/chain options.
Once I'd settled on the AXA, it was time to choose the plug-in security. There's a number of options:
1) RLD Plus cable, 1.8m long x 12mm core.
2) RLE Plus cable, 1.5m long x 10mm core, cable clamp and frame storage clamp with 90-degree adjustable head. I weighed it at 400g/14.2oz with mounting bracket.
3) RLC Chain, 1m long chain x 5.5mm links.
4) RLC Chain, 1.4m long chain x 5.5mm links, hardened steel chain, quoted weight of 1kg/2.2lb.
5) DPI 110 Chain, 1.1m long chain x 8mm links, hardened steel chain, Cutting force more than 73 kN, Dutch ART** approved for insurance coverage, quoted weight 2kg/4.4lb.
I figure I need three levels of security:
1) Ring-lock alone for when I am near the bike and want to deter a ride-away theft. Weight is 640g/1.41lb
2) Ring-lock and 1.5m/10mm cable with clasp holder and bracket for lighter touring use with a loaded bike or on day rides on single-track and at remote trailheads. Cable coil shifts to about half-thickness when offset for storage in my bags, and is long enough to go through the front wheel, front Ortlieb pannier security tethers, rear wheel, rear Ortlieb pannier security tethers, frame, and around a solid object before plugging into the ring lock. Total weight for AXA Defender and this cable totals just over 1kg or just under 2.5lb.; about comparable to my u-lock alone.
3) Greater security for when the bike is left alone for a time, as when I am in a restaurant and need to secure it to a fixed object. For those times, I would choose the DPI 110 plug-in chain, as it provides the highest level of plug-in security, comparable to the better Kryptonite chains, but at a terrible weight penalty of 2kg -- typically too much when loaded touring. I still have my Kryptonite EVO2000 U-lock, and it weighs 1.09kg/2.40lb -- half the weight of the DPI 110 chain, and another type of lock. Combined, I could employ...
-AXA Defender @ 640g/1.41lb
-RLE Plus cable, 1.5m longx10mm @400g/14.2oz
-Kryptonite EVO-2000 U-lock @ 1.09kg/2.40lb
________________________
TOTAL weight: 2.13kg/4.69lb.
If I used the AXA DPI 110 Chain @ 2kg/4.4lb, then total weight would be 3.04kg/6.7lb. I'm better off using the AXA Defender, plug-in cable, and Krypto E-2000 U-lock (two different kinds of locks + a cable) with a substantial weight savings.
Here's a nice illustrated writeup on how a plug-in chain can help secure a bike locked with an AXA Defender:
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/axa-defender-frame-lock-rl140-chain-258840.html
The only hitch at present lies in the RLE Plus 1.5mx10mm core cable I bought today(see pics). To facilitate snapping the straight cable into its neat little holder to make a stable coil, AXA crimped three brass keepers along its length. If I'm not careful, these will take a toll on paint and parts finish with continued use. I didn't see it in photos online nor at the dealer's today; not until I got it home and uncoiled it did I see this flaw. Still, it is workable with care, but takes much longer to use with care than with simple vinyl-coated cable. Time will tell if it is worth it.
So, that's my anti-theft strategy at present. The lock should arrive by early next week at the latest, and the same for the ATB mounting hardware. Full photos in Danneaux's Sherpa gallery when it is all on and mounted. Hopefully, I a good choice. If not, there's always eBay for cost-recovery.
Best,
Dan.
-
Nicely thought out, Dan, though I can't say I like hearing weights like 6.7 pounds bruited abroad even for dayrides, never mind touring.
But then you read the accounts here of bikes stolen, and the terrible accounts of the drug addicts you sent me references to, and it starts to seem a small sacrifice.
Those Atomic 22s in some instances cost more than than the component they are supposed to protect!
Andre Jute
-
Hi All,
I installed my new AXA Defender lock on Sherpa today, and all went well. Yay, success at last!
I used the AXA ATB mounting kit, which consists of a couple shaped plastic blocks, toothed lock washers, nuts, and a couple vinyl-coated "cup hooks" that wrap around the seatstays. I chose the ATB mounts instead of the supplied mounts, which consist of two thin metal strips, a couple sleeves, and a winder similar in concept to the little metal key used to open a tin of canned meat. The ATB kit allows future removal and replacement of the lock for maintenance of the bike, and it also provides a standoff so grit can't filter behind the lock and grind away at the paint. There's enough room to easily clean the bike when needed, yet the lock sits close enough to be out of the way. Stress is distributed nicely and the lock is really secure. The lock nicely clears the fender and there is lots of tire clearance...about equal to the clearance at the front of the chainstays. I placed the ATB blocks so the mounting arms faced the tire for a cleaner appearance. By the way, there are two sizes of ATB mounts; I got the 16-17mm one for Sherpa's 16mm seatstays. AXA's ATB mounting kit will also fit Trelock and ABUS ring-locks.
The AXA Defender is a captive-key lock...when open, the key stays in the lock. I didn't want to lose it when leaving the bike, and not all my cycling clothes have pockets. The solution was a little wrist-coil keyring from the lock shop. It is light, yet secures the key nicely to my wrist, preventing loss and reminding me the bike is locked. I like it much better than my original plan to fit a little plastic clip to the key. Oddly enough, beyond my worries about losing the key, I have a particular concern about losing it as I lean over a primitive or pit toilet. I've seen cell phones at the bottom of those, effectively lost forever to their owners. I can't imagine losing a bike key in one mid-tour, in the middle of nowhere. That's why I also will be taking a spare key tethered securely inside the Ortlieb handlebar bag. Of course, I will register the key number with AXA-Assa-Basta so I can order replacements in future.
I also purchased AXA's plug-in 1.5m x 10mm steel-core vinyl-coated cable (detailed photos earlier in this thread). As the photos show, it is long enough to go around a post (an insecure one in my backyard photo), through the front wheel, frame, and rear wheel, then secured in the ring-lock. I have found it will also go through the security tethers on my front and rear Ortlieb panniers on the way, preventing a quick snatch of any pannier (the HB bag always goes with me when I leave the bike).
As mentioned in my earlier post this thread, I will use my Kryptonite U-lock for extra security when needed, and plan to get the Atomic22 security bolts for the Tout Terrain The Plug 2 top cap (protecting the fork, stem, T-bar and charging system) and front and rear Atomic-22 locking wheel skewers (protecting the dynohub and both wheels). Add the alarm to alert me if someone is tampering with bags, rack-top cargo, or bike, and I think I have a pretty good solution for my needs.
Moving the pump made it all possible, thanks to Zefal's worm-drive nylon pump peg and Doohicki base mounted on the chainstay bridge.
Best,
Dan.
-
Now you see, all that money spent on educating you in systems analysis wasn't wasted!
Andre "Ducking now" Jute
-
...all that money spent on educating you...
;D
Gotta do something to get my money's worth! ;)
A good chuckle and an outright laugh or two at your little day-brightener. :D
Thanks, Andre!
All the best,
Dan.
-
Reviving an oldish thread ... great info on the AXA Defender which I have been considering for some time. Quick question ... where did you get the coiled wire attached to the key as the 'off-bike' wrist strap? Looks like a bit of telephone handset chord!
-
where did you get the coiled wire attached to the key as the 'off-bike' wrist strap? Looks like a bit of telephone handset chord!
Hi Richard! It does indeed look like an old telephone handset cord (and the thought goes well with my "speed-dialing" of the Rohloff shifter). It is a coiled key-carrier, snagged for the princely sum of USD$1.79 at the key-making kiosk in a local do-all department store. They're made in China and usually come with a split-ring attached to hold keys. They are popular with gym users who wish to keep their locker keys with them while exercising.
It has proven ideal for my needs, and weighs as close as possible to nothing. It is noiseless, doesn't flap in the wind, and provides a loss-proof way to hold my ring-lock key when I am wearing clothing without pockets (i.e. cycling clothes).
Because the AXA Defender holds its key while riding, whenever the key is gone, the bike's rear wheel is locked. The little coil is a great reminder to unlock the bike before riding and a constant answer to the question, "Did I lock it?" when away from the bike. It really completes the ring-lock ethos, covering every contingency for quick and casual use. As always, I do feel a ring-lock should be used with a cable or chain *and* a U-lock for higher security. I also have my motion-detecting alarm.
Highly recommended, and...they come in colors! If you can't find one where you live, give a shout and I can pick one up for you at cost and postage. Most lock shops seem to carry them: http://www.mrlock.com/mfg/lucky_line/410.html Amazon and eBay offer them as well.
All the best,
Dan.
-
Thanks Dan! Will have a look at local key cutting kiosks/gyms etc. Have found them too here via Mr Google. Thanks for the offer to get hold of one and to post it. The link ... lots of great colours but I am with you - Stealth Black only!
I have been studying your great posts and it looks like the AXA Defender may be the best choice for my Raven Tour. At present I have a Abus Granite X Plus 54 (great for high theft-risk areas but heavy) and a simple combination lock (probably defeated with a good pair of scissors in under 15 minutes!). The middle ground is what I am looking for when cycle touring. The AXA Defender with cable or chain seems like an ideal choice.
I have been looking at the Dutch Bike Bits web site. Other sites and shops here in the UK seem not to feature this type of lock. Indeed it is not a common style of lock here as in the US. But what is good for the World Capital of Cycling is good for me!
Thanks again.
-
'Most welcome, Richard. If you'd like to see more detail shots and measurements of the lock before buying, I have some here, with regards to mounting the AXA Defender to a Nomad's larger-diameter seatstays: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4987.msg25845#msg25845
Best,
Dan.
-
Thats great ... very helpful measurements. The Raven Tour seat-stays are 16mm in diameter and there is an attachment available from Dutch Bike Bits (older Type 16-17mm) ...
http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=axa&category_id=0&product_id=49 (http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&keyword=axa&category_id=0&product_id=49)
Looks like it will do the job having compared some measurements earlier this evening. Agreed, the older style attachment seems more secure than the newer 'band' type fitting. Will probably first apply some ol' inner tube to protect the paint work too.
Best,
Richard
-
Axa on my Raven Tour.
Pleased with it and only niggle is that I don't see it as much of a visible deterrent.
Guess this is a bit nit picky since it does make the bike un-rideable and in itself is a great security device.
I like the key set up and is certainly rattle free and forgetaboutable.
I think I will run security cable though it and around something near the bike when out far from home.
Can I give it a 95%?
Matt
-
Matt
I think it is good that it is not so visible, at least for touring. A prospective thief may be baffled as to why they can't push the bike away! Good to hear it does not rattle. Fit-and-forget was also part of the appeal.
95% is a pretty good satisfaction rate Matt! The order has been placed!
-
Humm.
While they are being baffled as to why they can't push the bike away my spokes are being given a right going over.
:'(
Anyone ever heard of damage being done to a wheel in this way?
-
Anyone ever heard of damage being done to a wheel in this way?
Uhh...no, not yet.
Hi Matt!
To be candid, this is the only remaining reservation I have about using a ring-lock.
I have set up test rigs with old wheels, queried my Dutch friends (ring-locks are extremely popular in the NL), and...
I have yet to induce damage by attempting to wheel-away a ring-locked bike. I really tried, too.
In theory, the spoke-nipple connection should break. Tensile strength of the spoke is sufficient it can't be torn in two by the (relatively) low forces used to roll a bicycle. I worried a heavily loaded touring bike and an attempt to take off in low gear might do the job, but so far -- on the test rig, 'cos I'm *not* going to imperil one of my Real Bikes, even for Science -- the answer is "no".
At a certain point, the weakest link in the system is the coefficient of friction between the tire and the ground. In every one of my tests, the tire skidded along at levels well below what would break a spoke and, apparently, a nipple. Standing on the pedals in lowest gear might do it, but that exceeded the capacity of my test rig (an old frame fitted with wheels and a drivetrain with a piece of angle-iron u-bolted across the seat stays standing in for the ring-lock).
Even if a spoke or two were damaged in an attempt, I would consider it a smaller price to pay than a complete loss due to outright theft.
Playing further, I found a poorly tensioned spoke could be bent ever so slightly, but not parted as a result of the spoke or nipple yielding. A properly tensioned wheel showed no damage at all in my tests.
The results sure surprised me, and I'm still uneasy about saying there would be no damage in every circumstance, but all was well on the test rig and on the few occasions when I first installed the lock and tried to push the bike forward a few inches. When the ring-lock is engaged, it becomes immediately apparent the bike won't roll.
As far as deterrence...I count the stealthy or largely unseen nature of a ring-lock as a bonus. Better to surprise a thief with stealth security than to count on them being bright enough to avoid attempting to defeat something visible. For me, the ring-lock really shines when I have t be momentarily a meter or two apart from the bike and could not prevent a snatch-and-grab theft, say while I peeled off my tights or zipped on my jacket. On a ride I took the other day, the park restroom I stopped to use was large enough to being the bike inside the Men's Room, but not the stall. I felt a lot better with the ring-lock set while I took care of things and later washed my hands. Others have had their steeds stolen from that facility in similar circumstances, and I worried less this time around.
Remember, a ring-lock's greatest advantage is it is fairly lightweight (as these things go), and always on the bike, awaiting use. However, it is not the ultimate in theft deterrence. Unless fitted with a plug-in or add-on chain or cable, the bicycle can still be lifted and carried away (more difficult with a heavily loaded touring bike). I rarely leave my bike for any time alone, but will also pack the additional weight of a u-lock when I anticipate the need.
Best,
Dan.
-
Thanks Dan.
Pleased you found no serious damage from pushing the bike with the Axa lock closed.
One phrase you used jumped out at me
it is not the ultimate in theft deterrence
I immediately thought of a rabid Rottweiler chained to my Raven
:D
-
Thanks Dan.
Pleased you found no serious damage from pushing the bike with the Axa lock closed.
I tried to wheel mine away one time when the ringlock was locked. Later on, when checking the wheel I have noticed a slight bend to one spoke.
One phrase you used jumped out at me
it is not the ultimate in theft deterrence
Nothing much will deter the determined thief ultimately, as illustrated only too well by the Neistad brothers (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7zb8YXrmIA).
I immediately thought of a rabid Rottweiler chained to my Raven
Now that would work :D
-
Humm.
While they are being baffled as to why they can't push the bike away my spokes are being given a right going over.
:'(
Anyone ever heard of damage being done to a wheel in this way?
I reckon it doesn't happen very often.
I have ring locks on two bikes left for visitors to use at a holiday flat we own. Over the years, visitors have done various sorts of damage to the bikes - bending a front wheel rim (I think probably by loading the bike with the front wheel still in the bike rack at the local supermarket), breaking a rear rack, scraping off a pedal end cap....
So far, no one has damaged the rear wheel spokes with the ring lock. One visitor did manage to lose the key, but I made sure I had 3 spare keys for each bike.
-
Spare keys?
Mine came with x2
How do you order more?
-
Hi Matt!
AXA-Basta maintain a spare-key service, and their service is excellent, with quick turnaround time and speedy delivery. See: https://www.axa-basta.nl/sleutelservice/action/searchserial Root page here: http://axa-stenman.com/en/home/
So...why spare keys? Especially when the key remains in the lock when the bike is being ridden? Short answer: 'Cos it is possible to lose the key while off the bike.
And, because "different" kinds of keys are offered.
I'll explain...
The AXA Defender comes with two keys...and is available in a variety of colors.
Oddly enough, the color of the lock determines the *kind* of keys you will receive with the lock.
Most keys are a simple "L" shape. The fancy keys fold like a pocketknife and are spring-loaded, similar to a modern Volkswagen key.
The silver-colored locks seem to be the "premium" model offered here in the States, and they come with one folding key and one "L" key. I got the stealthy black-on-black lock to match Sherpa and transferred it to the Nomad; it came with two "L-shaped" keys. I wanted a spare that folded so it wouldn't poke holes while carried on the little built-in key leash in my Ortlieb handlebar bag. This would be the emergency spare, as the key normally stays in the lock while riding, and I have a coiled wrist holder for use while the key is with me off the bike and the bike is locked.
So...again, why spare keys?
I got the (folding) spare to keep in the HB bag 'cos Things (sometimes Awful-Terrible Things) can Happen while on-tour. The little wrist-coil holder I have could snap and fall off my wrist if it has weathered awhile, or the thing could get caught while reaching for something. Id' be lucky to find it back again if it fell on the forest floor or sank in desert playa. At any rate, I don't want to be in the back-of-beyond, marooned with a locked bike having lost the one and only key I had with me. So, I carry a spare! ;D
Best,
Dan. (...who doesn't want to lose the only key while he's "locked and loaded")
-
AXA Defender arrived yesterday afternoon. What a chunky looking lock, bigger than I expected! Nicely made too. I included the cable lock (RDL Plus 1.8m 12mm thick for touring) and chain (RLC 1.4m Black for city/commuting) in the order ...
http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51 (http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51)
http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=68 (http://www.dutchbikebits.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=68)
The AXA Defender fitting kit 'Older Type 16-17mm' is best for the Raven Tour (and probably the Sherpa too).
When fitted the AXA Defender actually looks smaller and neater, and in fact blends very well with the Raven Tour. No problem fitting though I think it may need a bit more adjustment to take a larger tyre. Currently I have Pasela TourGuard 1.75 and the clearance is fine. In future I intend using Marathon Mondial or XP 2.00 tyres and the clearance should be adequate (with that small adjustment to the position of the lock).
Dan, after visiting some gyms, office supply shops, shoe repairers etc, I gave up and located and ordered a black coil key loop on line from a UK site ...
http://onestop-key-rings.co.uk/black-wrist-coils-p-211.html (http://onestop-key-rings.co.uk/black-wrist-coils-p-211.html)
The project is near completion! Thanks all for the great photos and advice.
By the way, the Black AXA Defender from Dutch Bike Bits came with an 'L' key as well as a folding 'Fancy VW Style' key.
Does anyone know the maximum tyre size that can be used with the AXA Defender?
-
Don't know about the AXA but I have the very similar Abus Amparo and have used the Mondial 2.3" tyres with no major problems - did have to fit the wheel with the tyre deflated then inflate though.
-
Hi Richard!
All congratulations on joining the AXA Defender club, subset of the Larger Ring-lock Community. Your membership pass will be arriving in the mail soon... :D
As for tire size, once past the smaller initial opening, I found plenty of room for my 26x2.0 Schwalbe Duremes, and -- by measurement -- for a 55mm tire as well. I deflate my tires when installing/removing so they'll pass between the brake pads, so this was no added hardship.
So, yes -- 2.0in/50mm tires should fit fine!
As for the RT, it had the same stay dimensions as my Sherpa Mk2, so -- yep -- a good choice for it as well, and same with the 16-17mm ATB clamp mounts.
The wrist loop looks ideal, and I'm glad you got the fancy V-style key as well -- yay!
Of course, now we want to see photos of the installed lock so we can admire it!
Best,
Dan. (...who thinks a ring-locks adds to, rather than detracts from the bike's appearance and is considering one for his rando bike)
-
Dan
Yes, I have been a bit lazy in documenting the evolution of Torla the Raven Tour (stable name Ordesa Torla Reiver of Border ;D). Next sunny day I will snap some shots of all the changes and add them to 'StuntPilot's Raven Tour' thread ...
http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3916.msg17288#msg17288 (http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=3916.msg17288#msg17288)
Quite a few tweeks and changes! Very happy with the latest mod - the AXA Defender! Come on SJS Cycles - could be a market here!
Richard
-
Thanks for jogging my memory about the ring-locks. Just ordered an Abus Amparo and the matching cable lock for my wife's bike. Now we will be riding thoroughly secure bikes and fit into the scene really well for our forthcoming European tour (Italy & Corsica)
;)
-
you wont need a bike lock in italy ;)
-
Richard,
One of the Secrets of the Ring-lock Society is...
If you're already using a Click-Stand, you can use the ring-lock in place of the brake lever bungees. Works wonderfully well to stabilize the bike on the stand and locks it at the same time.
Remember, it is a secret, so we can't tell anyone.
All the best,
Dan. (...who can show you the Secret Handshake and Greeting as well!)
-
Dan ... who told you this? Its supposed to be a secret! ;D