Author Topic: Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)  (Read 228 times)

E-wan

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Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)
« on: May 07, 2024, 08:14:17 pm »
I have a Mk 2 nomad where I have replaced the standard fork with a fork design for a Mk3 Nomad

the new fork is about 15 mm shorter crown to axel length which, when used with two 26 inch wheels Will give a slightly steeper head tube and see tube angle than the originally intended geometry.


As the mk3 nomad fork is designed to also accept 27.5" wheels, I am considering mulleting the mk 2 nomad

Mullet bikes for those not familiar, have a larger front wheel than rear wheel
typically 29 inch front and 27.5 rear
although plenty of people have tried it with 27.5 front and 26 rear.

Given that the new fork has a shorter crown to axle length, it shouldn't have as much impact on the geometry as it would to do this with a different frame.
(Ever so, slightly slacker head tube and see tube angle than originally intended)

Has anyone tried this yet with the mk2 nomad?


I'm running 2.5 inch Surley extra teresterial tyres.

I have a few spare front wheels, so I'm planning to try both of 26 inch and 27.5 inch front wheel with the same tyre for initial comparison.

If it works, I could always use a slightly wider tire at the front and it opens up options to the wider range of tyres available in 27.5.

Ewan


PH

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Re: Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2024, 09:42:25 pm »
If you have the wheels there's no harm in experimenting and seeing what works for you.  It isn't a lot of difference, less than a degree, I'm skeptical I'd notice it on the steering and it would mean getting the saddle back 5mm to compensate if that bothered you.  You could make the difference up with tyre sizes, 0.5" smaller on the front would do it.
Even for the current Nomad the supplied forks come in a variety of lengths, 20mm difference between the longest and shortest from memory.
« Last Edit: May 07, 2024, 09:45:26 pm by PH »

Andyb1

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Re: Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)
« Reply #2 on: May 13, 2024, 08:58:15 pm »
I have been making my rigid bikes “mini-mullets’ for a few years now - 26” wheels at both ends but 1.5 tyre at the rear and 1.75 at the front.  My logic for this is that the front end hits bumps hard so a little more tyre thickness softens the ride, while the rear wheel gets pulled over the bump.   I have the front tyre 5psi softer than the rear as it carries less load.

Danneaux

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Re: Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)
« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2024, 03:39:36 am »
Sheldon Brown, here...
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#:~:text=Wider%20Front%2C%20Narrower%20Rear&text=A%20wider%20tire%20will%20generally,some%20wrist%20discomfort%20on%20occasion.
Quote
Quote
Wider Front, Narrower Rear
A wider front tire makes sense in many applications, however, when handling and ride comfort are considered. A wider tire will generally provide better cornering traction than a narrower one, assuming appropriate inflation pressure.
A wider tire also provides superior shock absorbency. I personally prefer a slightly wider tire in front, since I suffer from some wrist discomfort on occasion.

Best, Dan.

Andre Jute

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Re: Mullet nomad mk 2 (26" rear -- 27.5" front)
« Reply #4 on: May 14, 2024, 01:11:06 pm »
With all due respect to Sheldon and Dan, and to Ewan too, I'm not so sure a wider front tyre than the rear on a bicycle is the wisest thing to do on any bike but especially on a touring bicycle. Oh, it is probably all right for day rides on known roads, if not overdone, but a distant long loaded tour is bound to throw up more stressful conditions and events.

My reasoning starts with two immutable hard facts:

1. On a bicycle, which is inherently unstable -- scope the "bi" in the vehicle name, the roadholding and handling (handling is the capability to save yourself and your bike when it runs out of roadholding) must be provided for the conditions at the limit, which always lurk on strange roads -- by definition the case during distant tours. An example would be a fast downhill at dusk with a suddenly tightening curve with at the apex a pothole you never saw until you hit it.

2. There is nothing as safe as an understeering bicycle, and the more so on a touring bike whose rider will be on a strange road in perhaps unforeseen circumstances when he might be tired and his reflexes less than track-sharp. I've never even heard of a touring or utility bicycle by a designer so incompetent that he made it intrinsically oversteering. This is the reason why experienced tourers go to great lengths to achieve equal loading on the axles. This is also the reason lowrider luggage and fittings even exist -- to arrange the weight transfer couple to slope upwards to the rear of the bike, and for more esoteric reasons of bike stability in crosswinds where a rearward centre of aerodynamic pressure is absolutely essential. Note that a neutral-steering bike is a lethal object because you don't know which way it will break even in casual use when it meets a small extraneous input, never mind at the limit of adhesion. Even bikes with zero use outside the highest level of racing are not neutral-steering: they just have very much smaller margins of understeer,
 and none are designed to oversteer.

Your quality purpose-designed touring bike is thus likely to be as safe as can be imagined, the more so if it has a longish wheelbase, when fitted with two equally wide tyres inflated to the maker's recommendation for the load and it's distribution. It doesn't matter whether the designer is a brainiac or a craftsman following and refining time-hallowed practice: the point is that there is an agreed envelope the owner of the bike pierces at his own risk.

Just putting on fatter tyres at both ends than the bike was delivered with will already sharpen up the roadholding and steering through a bigger contact patch with the road, and the handling too, while at the same time distancing even further the likelihood that you will ever require the greater handling. Fatter tyres are faster and safer and more comfortable while at the same time making the bike feel more "sporting", contrary to cycling myth.

Putting a fatter tyre only on the back, all other things being equal, will on smooth roads cause less understeer or, in extreme cases dangerous neutral steer or lethal oversteer as the rear wheel with its greater traction tries to overtake the reluctant front wheel.

Putting a fatter tyre only on the front will tend to cause the front wheel to turn faster than the rear wheel and thus give the bike less understeer. (I know, counterintuitive that the fatter tyre on either end reduces design understeer, but tyres are the least rational part of a bicycle, or a car for that matter.) This, modestly done, could make an unloaded but intrinsically relatively heavy touring bike more responsive to steering inputs. Andy's point in another current thread about the rear wheel being pulled by the front wheel applies. It won't work so well in loaded touring, which is generally weight-biased to the rear of the bike.

The safest tyre choice all round is what the designer intended before the cost accountants started work by fitting narrower tyres than the designer wanted: that is, to fit the fattest tyres the bike will take, same size front and rear and to inflate them to spec for the load and its distribution, and to let the design geometry keep you safe from "going bush" (actually, here in Ireland, into the ditch which lines both sides of the country lanes I love) or landing in front of oncoming traffic.







 



« Last Edit: May 14, 2024, 01:15:28 pm by Andre Jute »