Author Topic: Allen fitting vs. nut fitting of calier brakes?  (Read 13930 times)

joseruivo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Allen fitting vs. nut fitting of calier brakes?
« on: March 22, 2005, 06:36:19 am »
Hi All,

Having never held these in my hands,what are the main diferences between the 2 types? Can a frame equalyy use either one or other type?

Thanks,

Jose B. Ruivo
 

Chris Land

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 85
Re: Allen fitting vs. nut fitting of calier brakes?
« Reply #1 on: March 28, 2005, 11:09:05 am »
If I have understood the question then the answer is no.

If you have an allen-key fitted caliper, they usually need a recessed bolt space at the back of the forks/tube.  The nut fitted ones need a clear piece of tube and a curved washer to fit to.  Most new frames have a recess so you can't fit modern brakes to an older frame, a problem I have had a couple of times though second hand parts are easy to come by.
 

joseruivo

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 2
Re: Allen fitting vs. nut fitting of calier brakes?
« Reply #2 on: March 28, 2005, 02:31:52 pm »
Hi Chris,

What stops one from using a regular, or a curved for that matter, nut, instead of a piece that goes inside the fork to hold the brake?

I've heard of some people "enlarging" the screw hole in order to fit "modern" brakes ...

Makes me wonder if brakes' manufacturers think we're going to buy a new frame, or at least a new fork, just mount their new brakes :-((

Thanks a lot anyway!

Happy ridings,
Jose B. Ruivo
 

tynevalleycommuter

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 44
Re: Allen fitting vs. nut fitting of calier brakes?
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2005, 01:36:15 pm »
I know the thread is a few days old now, but I have successfully fitted Allen Key brakes to my old 531 commuting frame. Opened out the hole in the rear of the fork crown to 8mm by drilling and fitted a thin curved washer also opened out to 8mm.

The seatstay bridge is a bit harder (difficult to get a drill in behind the seat tube), but I did manage it - again, only opened out the front hole and left the back one to ensure good location of the brake. I used a thicker curved washer, also drilled out. They are very solidly fixed, the seatstay bridge may be weakened a bit so beware if it is very slim. Different lengths of AK nut should be available from your local bike shop if you need a longer or shorter one (longer ones can always be cut down with a hacksaw).

The other way I have done it was to use the back brake on the front with a long AK nut, and with the longer stud on the front brake, fit this right through the chainstay bridge and use a normal nut/curved washer etc. This avoids drilling out the hole and weakening the seatstay bridge. Make sure the brake blocks are fitted the right way round if you swap front and back brakes.

I have also done it the other way around (old brakes onto allen key frame) by cutting short and re-threading the mounting studs and buying some allen key nuts separately.

If you have mudguards, the hole/slot in the mounting bracket will also need drilling/filing out

It's not too difficult if you have drill, vice, hacksaw, set of metric dies, file etc. but if you are not sure then don't take the risk - brakes must be mounted securely[:0]