Author Topic: Danneaux's Nomad  (Read 231261 times)

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #330 on: July 22, 2013, 05:37:19 pm »
Again...

JimK

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #331 on: July 22, 2013, 06:07:56 pm »
Thanks for the great report, Dan. A shakedown trip with new equipment in territory that isn't quite so risky - the value of such an incremental approach sure seems proven here! Just a good story without being life threatening!

Interesting to hear about your crunchy bottom bracket. I've sprayed silicone lube on all the joints I can find on my saddle, and tightened up the crank bolts. Still I have a regular clicking. Could be the pedals too. I maybe switch saddles just to be sure. But the fickle finger is starting to circle the bottom bracket. I only have about 7000 miles on my bike - seems rather early for bottom bracket trouble. What do I know, though?!

I've been out on some day hikes in the Catskills the last few weekends, with my partner's son and various other companions. We've been using Platypus 2 liter pouches to carry extra water. They don't seem super durable but so far so good, and the water seems to come out as tasty as it went in.


jags

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #332 on: July 22, 2013, 06:25:44 pm »
Great report Dan i suppose you would call that a shakedown tour for bigger tours up ahead.
Dan to be honest i would ditch that trailer  :o looking at the climbs you have to get over its just not worth killing yourself hauling all that gear .
but as Jim said what do i know but from where i'm sitting i would stick with a fully loaded nomad. ;)

Andybg

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #333 on: July 22, 2013, 06:56:30 pm »
I am glad the outcome is not as disasterous as I had first feared when I saw your post this morning.

I would echo Jag's reccomendation of ditching the trailer - the bike you have could just about manage that full weight on its own and I always find with climbing a kg on the bike is less than half the effect of a kg on a trailer.

However if there is anyone that could iron out the niggles and make the system work - it would be you Dan.

Looking forward to seeing the future developments

Andy

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #334 on: July 23, 2013, 07:29:54 am »
Hi All!

Good news! The Nomad is back home again! He *just* fit inside the '89 Honda Civic Si with the back seats down, leaving room for a short-legged passenger. Had to remove the wheels, but the rest fit like a tailored suit with no damage to car or bike. Yay! Have to knock down a few projects here quickly, but should have the Phil BB in soon with photos of the installation to be posted.

<nods> Yes, Andy, and jags, if I can do the next tour with the bike alone, so much the better. I think the trailer handling might be improved, but that may end up being a nice winter project sitting in front of the fireplace. If I drop the trailer, I save not only its weight, but the weight of it's mounted panniers as well -- a quick weight reduction that should do wonders.

Jim, Platypus bladders look like the way going forward, but I may need to make durable over-sleeves for them. I'm investigating further.

More as I can manage it.

All the best,

Dan.

moodymac

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #335 on: July 23, 2013, 01:30:05 pm »
Dan,

Would going to a 34 tooth chain gear, or 19 tooth sprocket gear be practical while towing the trailer?  I don't know much about granny gears; I guess you could go so low that you would just fall over no matter how fast you were pedaling.


Tom

lewis noble

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #336 on: July 23, 2013, 03:26:39 pm »
Glad you are home safe and sound, Dan.

Interesting comments re B B bearings - hence your observations a week or two ago about re-chainsetting the Ripio I bought recently.  Mine started off feeling a little gritty, but then improved quickly - I put it down to chain bedding in, more lube I put on chain etc.

Lewis

 

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #337 on: July 23, 2013, 04:41:07 pm »
Quote
Would going to a 34 tooth chain gear, or 19 tooth sprocket gear be practical while towing the trailer?
Hi Tom!

You ask a very good short question I'll give a long answer to.

From an academic and rider's perspective, -- yes -- a further reduction would be helpful. Back in my low-geared derailleur days, I cobbled up my own low gearing using smallish chainrings as freewheel cogs and freewheel cogs as small chainrings. I found  12 gear-inch low (15x34T @ 27" wheels with half-step and custom derailleur cages) was perfectly ridable with my light, high cadence. Though my forward progress was as slow as walking, it was no bad thing. Loaded touring bikes make lousy wheelbarrows, and as I pushed the Nomad a total of 11mi/18km, I wondered how many pedal-shin-whacks were required to produce osteomyelitis. On the steeper 13% grades, just pushing on the handlebars wasn't enough, as it also pushed the front wheel sideways in gravel, so I pulled with one hand on the saddle's rear cantle plate while I steered with the other.

There are practical implications to such low gearing beyond the obvious.

For one, I'm running a Rohloff setup, and with my 26" wheels, I'm already at Rohloff's lowest recommendation for low ratios. It is not just a matter of staying inside warranty coverage, it is about reliability. Rohloff earlier left a sizable "margin" for reliability, but this margin has now been reduced with their revised ratios and I don't want to imperil reliability in the back-of-beyond, so 36x17T is as low as I'll go.
Also, 36x17T gives me "middle gears" just where I want them and in the exact-same progression as on my other (derailleur) touring bikes, so everything feels familiar to me with this setup; it simply caps my high gear at a realistic level and gives me a couple more low gears below my usual 700C-wheeled 19" low -- even slightly lower than the 16" low I enjoyed on Sherpa with a 44/32/22 x 13-36 setup.

The torque generated by ultra-low gearing really is surprisingly high. I used to machine and fit crushable alu spacers between my freewheels and hub lands else the freewheel bodies would distort the hub mounting face. Spoke windup is something else, and the surging torque loads don't help anything too much. Removing a freewheel torqued into position by such low gears is a real task. Even a sturdy bench-mounted vise didn't help much, and I frequently sheared at least one prong of a two-prong freewheel remover even using a tight q/r and molybdenum disulfide paste as a lubricant. I have no trouble thinking the Rohloff's nylon shear pins would do the same if geared too low, making a real mess while on-tour.

The other big issue that is always hanging Out There is forward speed and how it affects my food and water stores, day's distance, and tour segments. I usually make a pretty comfortable 15mph/24kph on fairly level ground when fully loaded. Cut that average speed by 33%, and I've got to add more food, water, and time-to-destination. It is a downward spiral. My philosophy has always been to go as fast as light as possible and build on that. Roughly 70mi/113km /day is a good and relaxed average for me in mixed terrain when fully loaded and ~100mi/161km is fine if it is reasonably flat. Steep stuff and gravel drives that average way down, and weight is the enemy. On this test-tour, I did about 42mi/68km and was beat (pushing in really steep terrain didn't help the average or me).

My usual plan would be to ride the bike alone and with far more reasonable loads. I much prefer the reduced weight and length, easier parking and backing, greater maneuverability, better handling, and higher speed of a bike sans trailer. On most tours, my cargo often falls around 40lbs/18kg to as much as 56lbs/25kg. For my 2010 desert tour, I carried 77lb/35kg.

This test-tour was really just that -- an exercise to take the bike as it sometimes is fully loaded when I have to haul massive amounts of water and supplies for some segments of my desert tours -- and see how "we" did on the flats, on hills, and on really rough roads: "For Science!" The bike did brilliantly. I had figured the trailer would mostly tag along on-tour unladen, then serve as a means to haul the 20l of water I sometimes need to carry as well as a bit of extra food. To my dismay, I found when the bike is already heavily burdened, adding even an unladen trailer still adds mass to be hauled uphill. My downhill speeds were severely limited by the trailer's unpredictable handling and the trailer weighed a lot even empty, resulted in increased effort for my use in those conditions, and added what felt like a half-bike more drag on really rough roads.

The valuable upshot of my little test-tour is to realize a trailer is not the panacea I was looking for. I need to tailor my water and cargo needs to the bike and it will take me a little while to figure out how best to do that. The sturdy Nomad weighs 12lb/5.4kg more than my Miyata 1000LT did, but is far easier to ride off-road, better handles greater loads, and the cushion provided by 2.0 tires is most welcome. I'm still processing what I've learned over the last several days, and will be trying some new things going forward. Good thinking, Tom; ideas and suggestions are always welcome!

Best,

Dan.

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #338 on: July 23, 2013, 06:08:13 pm »
Quote
Interesting comments re B B bearings - hence your observations a week or two ago about re-chainsetting the Ripio I bought recently.  Mine started off feeling a little gritty, but then improved quickly - I put it down to chain bedding in, more lube I put on chain etc.
Hi Lewis!

Thanks so much for the good wishes, and I'm glad your new gearing setup is settling-in well. It can take a little while for the new parts to mesh and then everything quietens down nicely.

With regard to my BB bearings...while I love the design and engineering behind 2-piece cranks, they have often been let down by poor bearing execution. Often, there is not a full complement of bearings in the cups, lubrication is a bit thin, and seals may be poor. Aluminum bearing cases distort a bit under load and make things worse. While it is possible to press out the original sealed bearings and replace them with better, often these replacements lack the plastic bushings that ride on the spindle. These are really necessary in  this design to prevent corrosion between spindle and bearing. When I ordered my Deore HollowTech II, I figured I'd use the original bearings till they became problematic in my use and then replace them with a set from Phil Wood and call it done for awhile. We'll see how it goes. If those go bad, then I can always revert to a square-taper BB/crank design as on all my other bikes, though I'd like to stay with the 2-piece on the Nomad if I can.

Besides the struggle with the weight and trailer's handling, part of the reason why I parked the Nomad at Yachats (say it as YAW-hots) and didn't ride further is because I wanted to save the crank spindle if at all possible (it is attached to the right crankarm). I've seen cases where the external bearings seized and pedaling further quickly scarred the spindle to the point where the bearings could not be removed or the spindle/crank reused. Mine are likely not too bad, but since I have the spare Phil on hand, why risk it? For example, after returning from a sometimes rainy Rotterdam-Santiago round trip, my Dutch touring pal wrote...
Quote
Since you intend to stick with Hollowtech II, you may want to check carefully for play and as soon as you discover the least bit of it, stop riding and replace your bearings immediately. If you have to ride another 150 kms or so, like me, the bearing will eat into the axle and it becomes pretty much impossible to remove the damaged axle from the bearings. I ended up banging the right bearing straight out of its cup together with the axle. My bearings held out 14,000 kms, but I've heard of sets giving in before reaching 10,000 as well.
I have attached a photo he took of the carnage After. Other examples here: http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/removing-xt-hollowtech-ii-cranks-594803-3.html#post6638303
http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/hollowtech-ii-axle-damage

Though it apparently wasn't a factor in these cases, excessive preload tension can quickly do in a set of Hollowtech crank bearings. It is just so easy to overtighten the little plastic tension cap, when all that is needed is simply very light finger pressure to dial out excessive play.

Iduhwanna dilute the Danneaux's Nomad thread too much with in-depth discussions of 2-piece vs 3-piece cranks better left to the Transmission Board ( http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?board=8.0 ), but an interesting discussion of 2-piece vs 3-piece cranks can be found here:http://forum.ctc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57475&sid=6c0dcb2ad4d358602e5d861de564786c

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: August 13, 2015, 03:01:10 am by Danneaux »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #339 on: July 23, 2013, 07:41:30 pm »
Hi All!

Kindly meant warning to others who transport their bikes *in* cars...

Oh...Dearie Me (and a few other Phil Liggettisms, see: http://thrillercrew.lefora.com/2010/01/29/twenty-phil-liggettisms/ ).

I was so focused on getting the Nomad safely into the Honda, I neglected to check the water bottle stoppers. I moved one bottle from the floor to the side-well, never registering it was empty...but had been full when removed from the bike. I just checked the car and found nearly a full liter of water had drained onto the removable floor mat in the rear passenger footwell and then overflowed to the car's carpet...largely waterproof-backed but not completely. There's insulating "fluff" beneath that, and it is wet as well. This means the driver's seat has to be removed as well as the doorsills and the carpet elevated and backed by towels to dry it and prevent rust and mildew down the road.

Best get to it sharpish.

Sigh. Just as I was about to set to the task of replacing the Nomad's BB.

Best,

Dan. (...who is realizing another meaning to "water water everywhere, but not a drop to drink")
« Last Edit: July 23, 2013, 07:57:16 pm by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #340 on: July 23, 2013, 07:55:34 pm »
great to hear even the mighty has an off day  ;D ;D

macspud

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #341 on: July 24, 2013, 12:45:44 pm »
Shame about the trailer not working as smoothly as expected. Could the shimmy have been caused by the load being too far back, maybe worth trying to get more weight in front of the axle  ???
« Last Edit: July 24, 2013, 02:24:05 pm by macspud »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #342 on: July 24, 2013, 06:18:42 pm »
Quote
Shame about the trailer not working as smoothly as expected. Could the shimmy have been caused by the load being too far back, maybe worth trying to get more weight in front of the axle
Hi Mac!

Thanks for your excellent suggestions; I did my best to employ both before leaving and numerous times by the side of the road. Extrawheel recommend placing weight as low and far forward as possible, so I put my water bags in the bottom, then again standing vertically at the front. Same for the U-lock and for the netbook and charger. You'll notice in the photos, I gave up attaching anything to the trailer's own rack. Putting *any*thing up that high just made things worse, so weight placement is surely a factor to some degree. However, in the end nothing helped address the inconsistent handling. If it had only done it all the time, I might have been able to hone in on a solution. I lost count of the number of times I stopped, got off, locked up the brakes, deployed the Click-Stand, and knelt down by the trailer to check and adjust everything in hopes of a solution.

What was so baffling was the inconsistent nature of the trailer's handling woes. The trailer would be tracking along wonderfully one moment, then woggita-woggita-woggita, away it would go, oscillating in ever greater arcs (same frequency, increasing amplitude) till I did something (sat, posted, braked, accelerated, leaned, or stopped) or it just spontaneously quit misbehaving. Posting did always seem to bring it on, while sitting sometimes broke the cycle. It never did it on dirt or gravel (it flew upward there), but some paved surfaces were worse than others in terms of seeming to contribute to or cause the problem.

Back home, I've been looking closer at things and my leading candidate for core contributor to the problem is the quick-release hitch. The tolerances are just huge, and the quill can actually slip sideways in the end cap. The other cap's threads are very loose on the quill, there are perfectly smooth back-faces on the nut/head/hitch, and the q/r lever's tolerances are so sloppy there is never an over-center "stop" -- I had to stop myself a dozen times or so to reset the q/r 'cos the lever had rotated 'round to the inside (no stop) and was starting to foul the chain as it passed over the Rohloff cog. I have spoken to Extrawheel about this at length and they sent me two hand-selected replacements for my three "bad" q/r-hitches.  At any rate, the hitches are a huge weak point in my use and I think the problem is aggravated by the relatively low tightening torque required by the Rohloff hub. I think the trailer might well be fine with different q/r-hitches as indicated by the experiences of others, like our own Australian Pete (Il Padrone), who has had very little if any trouble with his Extrawheel and only noticed a slight oscillation on one smooth surface. However, another Forum member has contacted me with a handling experience nearly identical to my own on an earlier model that caused him to give up on it.

I did notice initially, when about to leave home, trailer tire pressure seemed to be a factor. I had an initial oscillation riding in front of my house while running only 1.5bar/22psi, so I raised it to 4.1bar/60psi and it seemed to away. This didn't work once out and away, however. I think the higher pressure reduced lateral scrub at the tire contact patch, and on dirt oscillation wasn't a problem, either. I was going generally slower, but the dirt allowed the trailer's tire contact patch to drift laterally and so it did not impart and transfer a moment-force to the rear of the bike. Otherwise, when on pavement, the effect of a trailer oscillation was very much like the tail wagging the dog. It felt as if a hand had reached out and was laterally pushing the bike side to side at the rear drops. The bike alone did fine with no handing problems of any sort when I tried briefly dropping the trailer and riding the same patch. Trouble is, I didn't want to abandon such an expensive project by the side of the road, so I persisted. Even so, I'm only good for so much such effort with the same inconsistent results, even in the name of Science.

I'd sure like to make it work after investing so much time, effort, and money into it, and the need for it remains. I classify it as a worthwhile experiment of great promise that so far has failed to pan out due to some issues I had not foreseen.

At any rate, the problem of the trailer lofting or pivoting upward enough to foul the mudguard stay attachments and break the 'guard is a stopper for me; those 'guards are expensive, and now I've got to order a replacement from SJSC (can't get the same model Stateside), drill it, rewire it, reattach all my electrical connectors and reapply the logos. SJSC say the SKS 'guards are virtually breakproof and I believe it, but not when hit repeatedly by a 20kg trailer. Looking at the heat-shrink tubing I sleeved onto the stays (to match the black bike), you can see where the trailer fork repeatedly impacted them, causing the breakage. The trailer "flies" when it hits an obstacle, and it also doesn't take much of a difference in slope between bike and trailer to produce the same result. That's the one issue I don't know how to resolve even if I get the trailer to handle consistently.

For use on dirt or gravel behind a mountain bike with no mudguards, I think the trailer might be ideal provided the q/r-hitch clearances can be tightened. For use on my Nomad or other touring bikes with mudguards on anything other than level, smooth pavement...no, 'cos of the fouling problem between trailer fork (tongue) and 'guard stay mounts.

When I get time to fully process my notes and data, I'll cover the trailer issues in more depth in the thread devoted solely to it http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4953.0

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: July 24, 2013, 10:01:46 pm by Danneaux »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #343 on: July 25, 2013, 03:02:56 am »
Hi All!

The Nomad's old Deore external bottom bracket is out and the new Phil Wood version is in (along with a black-anodized spacer instead of the plastic Shimano one. The job went very smoothly, and I slickered everything with anti-seize and Phil Wood grease before torguing the cups and arms in place.

The Phil unit is a jewel and looks like one with its mirror-polished stainless steel cups and o-ringed alu spacer. It has considerable heft compared to the Shimano. I didn't take the time to weigh each for comparison, but I'd guess the Phil weighs about 3x as much and well worth it for the added rigidity. It is silky smooth, nicely shielded and well greased.

The Shimano's left cup is still in pretty good shape, but the right cup "clicks" about every 1/16th turn, and it shows signs of lubrication loss.  Fortunately, I caught the problem before any damage was done to the spindle, which is swedged permanently to the right crankarm on these models (making it a 2-piece crank, along with the left arm).

Photos attached below.

I should be good for some time now.

Best,

Dan.

George Hetrick

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Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #344 on: July 25, 2013, 03:08:18 am »
I had not realized that Phil did outboard bottom brackets -- sweet!