Author Topic: Danneaux's Nomad  (Read 231589 times)

NZPeterG

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 726
  • It's Great to Be Alive! Again! Go Cycle. . . . . .
    • Kiwi Pete's Cycling Safari
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #180 on: March 18, 2013, 10:08:20 am »
Hi All
We have NZ waters, H2O, Pump, etc.

Pete

The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common[

http://kiwipetesadventures.tumblr.com/

http://kiwipetescyclingsafari.blogspot.co.nz/

Looked after by Chris @ http://www.puresports.co.nz/
For all your Rohloff and Thorn Bicycle's in NZ

Matt2matt2002

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1894
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #181 on: March 19, 2013, 09:30:56 am »
Hi All!

As most of you know, I like to keep a fairly clean bike, figuring it aids longevity. After a ride, I rev up the compressor and do a quick blowoff of any accumulated dust, then use a soft, freshly-laundered microfiber cloth dampened with alcohol- and ammonia-free window cleaner for a quick wipe-down. if the bike is rain-soaked, I gently bounce it on its tires to shake off the excess water, then dry it with an absorbent cloth. The post-ride cleaning takes all of five minutes if I get to it promptly.

Dan.

Very impressed with your clean up routine at the end of a ride. Puts me to shame. So yesterday after a wet ride I spent 5 mins or more for a wipe down.
Did everything apart from wheels and between spokes since I ran out of time. ( ok, I know I should have made time but Mrs. matt wanted me inside for my tea ).
Do you do your wheels? If so, is there a quick way?
It was a shame to leave the Old Bird with dirty paws!

Matt
« Last Edit: May 05, 2013, 10:40:33 am by Matt2matt2002 »
Never drink and drive. You may hit a bump  and spill your drink

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #182 on: March 19, 2013, 04:17:24 pm »
Quote
Do you do your wheels? If so, is there a quick way?
Hi Matt! I do indeed "do" the wheels, though less thoroughly than the rest of the bike.

If the bike is dry and dusty, the squirt of compressed air takes care of pretty much everything. If it is wet and dirty, it takes just a bit extra to clean the wheels...

If I do nothing else, I still make a quick wipe of the rim sidewalls to remove grit before it can embed in the brake pads and score the rims. A quick 2-3cm "bounce" on the pavement shakes most of the water from the underside of the mudguards and off the wheels and tires. Compressed air blows away the rest (being careful to stay away from bearing seals and such).

For the tires, it helps if you're running road slicks or a shallow tread so not a lot of mud can stick and accumulate. I use a *wet* cloth, and just spin the tire beneath it or wipe quickly in sections and then rotate. If the tires are muddy, it removes all excess and they dry quickly (a necessity, since the Nomad lives indoors).

Rims are easy as well. Another wet cloth is held against each sidewall as the wheel is spun, or alternatively simply wiped in sections as the bike sits on its wheels.

This leaves a dirty "track" down the center of the rim I generally don't worry much about. When I do clean that, I use a cloth wetted with 99% isopropyl alcohol and do a quick wipe between and then perhaps up each spoke to the first crossing. Spokes are generally left alone, since they are stainless and have minimal surface area (and are a pain to do  :D ). Hub centers are also a pain, so don't get done much (why I decided against polished hubs on the Nomad; been there, done that with my Phil Wood hubs. Polish once, and you polish forever. If you don't, you'll wish you had).

The Rohloff-equipped Nomad's single chainring, cog, and large hub body are ever so much easier to clean post-ride than my derailleur bikes. For those, I generally keep some old rags on hand and will add a quick floss of the cassette/freewheel cogs and wipe the sides of the rear mech's tension and jockey pulleys if they need it. Again, the key for me to keeping this quick and easy is the full-coverage mudguards and long mudflaps, which keep much of the road debris confined to the wheels.

The whole idea of the "quick post-ride cleanup" is to keep it quick and simple so I'll actually do it. The side benefit is the stuff doesn't harden into a crust. Of all the things I ride through, angle-worms are the worst for removal once dry. I'm pretty sure they're made of the same stuff as the old rubber bands that vulcanize themselves to my paper files.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2013, 04:29:01 pm by Danneaux »

jags

  • Guest
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #183 on: March 19, 2013, 05:01:05 pm »
i must be a bit of a weirdo but i love cleaning my bike  ;D
many a time i took cotton buds to the chain links until every bit of grime was history.
another thing to remember to check is brake blocks ,be careful nothing is embedded in the rubber to distroy a good rim  :o yeah i reckon a super clean bike is a bike thats not going to give you any hassle.
mind you i dont mind getting it all mucked up all part of the fun.
 yeah keep it clean.

il padrone

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1322
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #184 on: March 19, 2013, 09:23:29 pm »
I must be a weirdo but I love the riding bit  :D Cleaning is a transient thing - that is it occurs on a transient basis and takes up less of my time. Maybe about 20 mins per month rather than 5 mins per ride (100 mins per month).

I don't find this gives me noticeable wear or corrosion issues. The bike gets cleaned when it gets dirty. The Thorn Nomad is exceptionally good for crud protection and removal. Mudguards and flaps are an essential to reduce crud build-up, but also a few other things matter - Andra 30CSS rims stay very-much grit free (most of that braking grit is your pads wearing bits of your rims off), Purple Extreme lube keeps my chain very nice, the Rohloff has far fewer nooks and crannies to catch and collect dirt and chain gunge, SS spokes and cables are much more corrosion resistant and durable.

Don't you have CSS rims Danneaux? I find there is simply no grit or dust on my rims at all.

Sometimes letting the dirt dry to flake it off is an easier way to clean. We didn't have much water handy to clean this mud and much of it chipped off OK when dried.

« Last Edit: March 19, 2013, 09:26:11 pm by il padrone »

jags

  • Guest
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #185 on: March 19, 2013, 10:15:48 pm »
so would you leave your bike that dirty when you get back from a tour or day ride and just clean it at the end of  the month  ;D ;D think of all that s..t getting into the drive train man it would ruin any bike and all for the sake of 20 minutes and a bucket of soapy water. ;)
horses for courses i suppose . you seem to enjoy getting down and dirty , where as i don't.
btw i'm not having a go at you just saying the bike deserves to be kept clean .
yeah i'm am a weirdo. ::)

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #186 on: March 19, 2013, 10:51:39 pm »
Quote
Don't you have CSS rims Danneaux?
Hi Pete! Nope; I made a deliberate decision against CSS rims, after friends reported they braked less well in extremely wet conditions. Also discussed a bit here: http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=4409.0 ...and... http://www.thorncycles.co.uk/forums/index.php?topic=2680.0 It sure doesn't seem to be a Universal, but occurred often enough to give me pause. Since I often ride in the wet especially while on-tour, braking in those conditions is really important to me, so standard Andras it is; just a preference of mine this go-'round. Coated or uncoated, the Andras have pretty robust sidewalls, so I'm not immediately worried. I get good rim life from my uncoated rims in such use, thanks to Kool-Stop Salmon pads, which have proven very gentle on my rims over the last 35 years or so. Re-rimming is not a big deal if the uncoated rims prove to have a short life.
Quote
Sometimes letting the dirt dry to flake it off is an easier way to clean.
Agreed! While on-tour, I will often allow dirt to crust-up and then let it chip off on its own or with some help if it is on something other than the drivetrain. The exception is wet playa. That stuff spreads, then hardens into a concrete-like substance that just does not come off, even on a braking surface. <-- I figure once it gets on the rim sidewalls, it is best to leave it the rest of the trip, as seems to bond to the surface and even the pads don't cut through it. It takes a real effort to remove it once home.
Quote
I find there is simply no grit or dust on my rims at all.
I've no doubt, Pete; that's one of many upsides for the CSS coating. No, my sidewall grit is mostly fine sand and road debris that can briefly adhere after splashing through silty puddles and such. Understandably, with uncoated rims, I don't want to have that grit grind into the sidewalls under braking, so I do clean it off occasionally.

The bulk of my post-ride cleaning described earlier is for day rides from home. I will do some spot-cleaning of the rims, chain, and drivetrain and such while on extended tours, but generally tend to leave things alone till I return. Occasionally, I have stopped at car repair shops and used their solvent tanks to clean my freewheel cogs and chainrings when things were really bad on long tours with my derailleur bikes, but that's pretty rare.
Quote
Cleaning is a transient thing - that is it occurs on a transient basis and takes up less of my time.
Sure, I understand, Pete. Just a different perspective. My Dutch touring buddy does similar, and we are each happy with the results. Vive la différence!  ;D

Oh! One last thought on keeping things clean(er) in use: In the past, I've experimented with everything from Flourine spray to spray-on cooking oil (Pam, not worth the effort and it attracts dust even after being wiped-down), furniture polish (Pledge), and various polymer coatings applied before long, dirty tours. Most did a nice job allowing the easy release of crusted dirt. Pledge did particularly well. However, these were all on glossy-finished wet painted bikes, and unfortunately are not compatible with matte-finished powdercoat, as they would change the appearance. The Pledge did work superbly when sprayed on the underside of the mudguards, excess wiped off and allowed to dry. I applied it with the wheels out and the brake pads bagged. It didn't seem to migrate onto the pads or rims, but sure did a nice job of preventing wheel-stopping buildup under the 'guards.

Best,

Dan.

il padrone

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1322
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #187 on: March 19, 2013, 11:54:45 pm »
so would you leave your bike that dirty when you get back from a tour or day ride and just clean it at the end of  the month  ;D ;D

The dirt was chipped off the next morning, then we rode for a day to a campsite at Rawnsley Park Resort, where the next day it was thoroughly cleaned down and re-lubed.

Another close-up of the next day before chip-cleaning. Thick, huh ?  ;D





think of all that s..t getting into the drive train man it would ruin any bike and all for the sake of 20 minutes and a bucket of soapy water. ;)

Surprisingly the drivetrain always manages to stay the cleanest of all the bike in such mud-events - look at it in the photo above. It may be the benefits of my Purple Extreme lube (doesn't wash off, does not attract dirt, rust-preventive) or also the flushing effects of some rain and continued chain use ??

Certainly at home with my normal commute and day rides on the weekend I normally don't get anything like this sort of dirt on the bike. Dust and/or a bit of light rain spatter is not going to destroy the bike - to paraphrase what the Dutch say "it's not made of sugar".
« Last Edit: March 20, 2013, 12:03:58 am by il padrone »

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #188 on: April 12, 2013, 04:49:39 am »
Hi All!

Ah! Contrast, sweet contrast!

I've been riding the Nomad almost exclusively since it arrived, but today decided to try a relatively short-distance back-to-back comparison between the Nomad and my most-favored Other ride, my beloved derailleur-geared blue 1983/84 Centurion ProTour 15 rando/touring bike with nearly 32,000 miles of use. In feel, geometry, and materials (Tange Champion No. 2 .9/.6/.9 in standard road-bike diameters), it would be roughly akin to a Thorn Club Tour with light wheels/tires and includes the usual assortment of dyno lights, mudguards, bottles/cages, and F/R alu pannier racks. Its wheels use Phil Wood freewheel hubs, 1.8mm spokes, narrow Mavic MA-2 box-section rims, and 700x32C Bontrager SelectK road slicks aired up to 85psi/~5.9bar. Weight is 32lb/14.5kg.

Although it was an apples-to-oranges comparison, I gained some interesting insights from riding each unladen, moving back and forth between them.

The Nomad was first out of the gate, with its Rigida Andra-shod 26x2.0 Duremes set F/R to 29/32psi or 2/2.2bar. Unladen dry weight is 45lb/20kg.

Riding along on the Nomad using these tires at these pressures, it is a revelation how well they damp low-amplitude high-frequency vibrations. I can spread my fingers like bird feathers while riding the brake hoods, and they are steady as can be. Concrete expansion joints, rough chip-sealed road surfaces, minor frost heaves and tree roots just disappear below these tires at low pressures despite the Nomad's very stiff frame.

In contrast, the rando bike accelerates much faster. For one thing, it weighs a lot less; 12lb/~5.5kg is some difference, and the rims/tubes/tires are lighter even though larger in diameter. There is a greater sensation of speed, though the bike computer showed actual speed was comparable in steady-state riding. Much of this impression of speed is due to the rando bike's greater ambient level of vibration, which is just constant. Spreading my fingers apart while riding atop the brake hoods, my fingers vibrate till they are a blur at the ends. Those same concrete expansion joints I breezed through on the Nomad hammered directly up the seatpost and into me, feeling like short sharp impacts from a shot-filled hammer. I ran over an ant and will feel it for a week. ;) All this from my previously most-comfortable bike!

The rando bike is a friction-shifted half-step "15-speed" (24/45/50T chainset, 14/17/21/26/34T freewheel) yielding 13 chainline-usable combinations, though I rarely if ever use the two highest gears (96in, 87in), so call it 11 available gears. In comparison, the Nomad's 36x17T Rohloff has 14 available combinations with no chainline issues so all combos are usable. The Rohloff's 80in high gear is about equal to the highest (79in) I ever truly use on the blue bike. All the intermediate gears are the same within a gear-inch or so, and the Rohloff adds two additional low gears (15in, 17in) below the blue bike's 19in low and includes a 20in as well. In practice, I find the shifting comparable with the Nomad getting the edge for having just one shifter (no double-shifts), for being truly in gear as soon as I hear the click, and for being able to change gears while stopped. I pause while shifting with both bikes and rarely shift under load (old friction-shifting derailleur habits die hard). The T-bar mounted Rohloff shifter is a little more convenient (closer) than my high-mounted downtube derailleur shifters.

The real difference I noticed between the two bikes relates to how they handle the big bumps...and how *I* handle them as a result. Now that I've been running the Nomad's tires at appropriately low pressures, the ride is largely comfortable but really firms up when I hit larger bumps and sometimes has the effect of snapping my neck a bit. I have been trying to figure out why, and got my answer today: The blue bike vibrates all the time, and so I know enough to "post" (stand up on the pedals when something Bigger comes along). Because the wider, higher-profile, low-pressure tires on the Nomad handle the little bumps so well, I get lulled into complacency and forget to post when a big bump -- something larger than a soft tire can absorb -- comes along. For comparison, I found an abrupt up-down-up crossing ramp on a multi-use path and repeatedly tried it with both bikes at the same speed. It snapped my neck a bit when riding the Nomad...and nearly took out my teeth on the stem of the blue bike while seated. Taking the same abrupt up-down-up ramps while standing on each bike was no problem.

Thanks to today's back-to-back comparison, I can better judge what constitutes a "seated bump" versus a "standing bump" on the Nomad; I hadn't realized I was posting so frequently on the blue rando bike. The Nomad's wide, low-pressure tires do such a great job with the smaller bumps, I forget that once they compress on hitting big bumps, the effective spring rate rises to where one *can* abruptly feel them. Understandable 'cos they are big bumps and would be on any bike! And, too, appropriately low tire pressures are more important with the unladen Nomad. It has a heavy, stiff frame appropriate to its role as a loaded expeditionary tourer. When riding unladen, the tires provide a suspension element critical to comfort, as intended. It really works out very nicely. I can feel the Sherpa Mk2's DNA in the Nomad Mk2, but just as the Sherpa was a heavier-duty touring bike than my blue rando/touring bike, so is the Nomad "more" bike than the Sherpa, biasing it more firmly toward the heavy-touring end of things and further from the role of general all-'rounder. For a visual comparison of ride/cargo characteristics, see the little chart I posted here: http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=4713.msg23329#msg23329

I feel really fortunate to have both ends of the touring spectrum covered so nicely in just two bikes (though I have others, I ride these most). I hope today's comparison will be helpful to those riders considering a move from conventional 700C tourer to fat-tired 26"-wheeled Nomad Mk2.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2015, 07:12:24 am by Danneaux »

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #189 on: May 05, 2013, 04:51:13 am »
Hi All!

The press of LifeStuff™ (and riding) has kept me from finishing the Nomad's wiring as quickly as planned. While I still have the charging system to wire, I finished the head- and taillight wiring today and waited for the flat light of evening to get some non-glare photos of the process.

I prefer my wiring largely hidden from view, secure from damage, and easily disconnected when general bike service is required (i.e. headset bearing replacement or component/lighting upgrades).  I managed this on Sherpa, as shown in gallery photos here...
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=3896.msg17095#msg17095
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=3896.msg17096#msg17096
http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=3896.msg17113#msg17113
...but the Nomad presented some extra challenges thanks to the extra clearance between downtube and front mudguard (to accommodate wheel travel with a suspension fork). I achieved my goals and am pleased with the nice, clean look -- it is really hard to see the wiring even close-up in bright daylight. Nothing dangles, loops, or hangs where it could be snagged when riding off-road or cross-country.

The attached photo collages tell the story by the numbers, but I'll explain it here in text:
1) The wiring starts at the SON28 (New) dynohub with a 4.8mm piggyback lug connector (to accommodate the separate lead to the Tout Terrain The Plug2 with PAT ExtraPower cord) attached to a short pigtail ending in a polarized gold-plated Dean's micro-connector (Model 2NB, P/N 1002/1225 http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/micro_plug.html ), commonly used in radio-control (R/C) models. This spares  the SON lugs from torsion and tugging when installing or removing the sub-harness during wheel changes and is more convenient to reach and easier to dis/connect as well.

I have taken care to arrange the wiring so it forms a "drip loop" to prevent water from following the lead into the SON connectors.

 The lead then travels up the inside of the right fork blade (secured with zip-ties) to the underside of the lower crown plate; extra wire is stuffed into the lower end of the steerer (wooden chopsticks helped with placement) and continues unbroken to the headlight.

2) The taillight connects to the Cyo headlight with the standard B&M 2.8mm spade connectors/lugs, terminating in another Dean's #1225 male connector at the rear of the lower fork crown plate. This allows fork removal for replacement of the headset bearings without disturbing the taillight wiring.

3) The taillight lead connects with a female Dean's connector.

4) Slack wire is coiled on a 4mm radius, then connected with zip-ties to the Rohloff shifter's cable housings along the downtube bosses. It stands clear of the v-brake cable run so the brake can be easily released for wheel removal.

5) The taillight lead continues with the Rohloff cabling under the bottom bracket shell, where...

6) ...another female-to-male Dean's connector allows easy removal of the rear mudguard if needed.

7) The wire enters the rear 'guard behind the left chainstay, cushioned by a Futaba R/C rubber grommet and runs just above the inner edge bead of the SKS 55mm rear fender...

8 ) ...exiting another Futaba-grommeted hole on its way to the taillight. Another Dean's #1225 female-to-male connector allows me to easily remove or exchange taillights or even racks at a later date if desired.

The Dean's connectors are an extremely firm push-fit and won't come loose accidentally. I used beta-cyanoacrylate (super glue) gel to hold the wire inside the edge-bead of the rear mudguard. This has proven itself to be completely secure over a decade of use on my other bikes, and placing the wire at the side shields it from direct stone impacts. Mud and rain have never been a problem. I use silicone high-dielectric grease on the dynohub lugs to ensure connectivity in wet conditions; it isn't necessary with the gold-plated Dean's connectors which fit very tightly and are extremely water-resistant. All wires are soldered and shielded with heat-shrink tubing. To properly clear the handlebar bag and sit at the proper height, I replaced the B&M Cyo headlight mount with one from the IQ Fly.

One other note...the sharp-eyed will spot the reversed bottom low-rider mount. I ran this same setup when the Thorn Low-Loader MkV front racks were on my Miyata and on Sherpa, and Andy Blance suggested I use it again on the Nomad. By running the bolt head on the inside, a broken bolt can be easily removed from the boss without need for an extractor -- it simply unscrews using the hex socket in the head. I will be replacing all the allenhead bolts with hex heads before my next tour. I have found hex-heads make it easier to torque the bolts to spec or remove them years later without risk of distorting the smaller allen socket.

Next task is wiring the Nomad's charging system, then on to the Extrawheel trailer, which has its own SON28 dynohub-powered B&M Toplight Line Plus taillight/standlight powered through a switchable homemade adjustable voltage regulator/rectifier and a parallel charging system using a B&M e-Werk.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2016, 02:10:59 am by Danneaux »

Andre Jute

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4068
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #190 on: May 05, 2013, 02:46:02 pm »
My bike is so superior, dirt doesn't stick to it. Sniff.

Joking aside, I clean my bike once a year, whether it needs it or not. Most years I could just brush it down to get rid of road dust, though I wash it anyway with one of those aerosols that is also a wax. (Washing and waxing is actually a condition of the ten-ear  guarantee on the frame. Only in Germany...) For the rest, a quick wipe with a soft tissue when I notice dirt that might transfer to my clothes is the limit of the necessary attention; I'm sure Dan would find plenty on my bike to apply a toothbrush to, but I view it as a functioning machine, not a showpiece. To me "low maintenance" includes "zero time spent cleaning between scheduled valetting stops".

But something I've noticed in the last two years, when the cleaning was skipped because of health problems: there are, despite catalytic converters on cars, still a lot of oily particulates in the air, even in the countryside where I live and ride. They seem not to settle on the painted parts of my bike, or at least to adhere to the paint, but I've always known they have an attraction to stainless steel because most settles on the spokes. But after missing two annual cleaning cycles, I notice that the backs of the BUMM clip-on amber spoke reflectors are pretty oily, on both wheels. The fronts are clean. I don't remember wiping the fronts of the reflectors but I might have done it as a reflexive (sorry!) thing when I saw they were dusty, to restore their full function, but the backs are definitely substantially blackened by oil. And no, I don't think this oil came out of the hubs. The full expected measure of oil came out of the Rohloff hub at the service in April, the chain and sprockets run inside a Hebie Chainglider and anyway have no added oil because I'm still running my factory lube-only experiment, and the Bafang 8FUN electric front hub has only thick grease in it, and what little has come out remains so thick it stays on the hub. It's oily particulate in the air, aided by rubber particulate thrown up from the tarmac I ride.

Odd that it should prefer to stick to stainless steel rather than painted parts.

Andre Jute

jags

  • Guest
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #191 on: May 05, 2013, 03:29:09 pm »
That nomad just gets better and better well done on another great job Dan ;)

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #192 on: May 05, 2013, 05:34:59 pm »
Thanks, jags; welcome back.

Several people have written me to ask, "So, Dan, just how 'invisible' are the light wires?"

I wish I could show you, but they're um, invisible.  :-\

Well, not quite.

Photos below show the wiring in a larger context. Taken around six this morning, so a bit dim (me as well as the photos).

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: October 29, 2016, 02:15:26 am by Danneaux »

jags

  • Guest
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #193 on: May 05, 2013, 05:58:59 pm »
Cheers Dan yeah very hard to spot them,i like the way you have the connectors fitted makes it easy to take apart very clever, is that a new headlight you have.

Danneaux

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 8232
  • reisen statt rasen
Re: Danneaux's Nomad
« Reply #194 on: May 05, 2013, 06:08:30 pm »
Quote
is that a new headlight you have
Thanks, jags. No, this is the same B&M HL Lumotec IQ Cyo R Senso Plus nearfield LED headlight I transferred from Sherpa. Mine is bright and works well, but the hot spot in the beam on this 2011 model remains a great annoyance to me. Such a shame B&M changed it for the worse after having it right to start. Still, it is a good light and I'll stay with this for the next year or two to see what developments are brought to market and tested before I switch. I'm a gentleman and let IanShearin go first on the Luxos U; I'm dying to hear and see how it works out for him. Fingers crossed it will be a corker!

Best,

Dan.