Author Topic: advice on new wheels please.  (Read 6718 times)

jags

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advice on new wheels please.
« on: January 15, 2012, 09:52:12 pm »
I'm on the lookout for a surer set of wheels aren't we all ;D
seriously though SJ built me a great set of wheels sun rhyno rims 36 hole shimano  xT m770 hubs dt swiss db spokes,now although there great i find them way to heavy for my liking, so I'm now after (when i can afford them  that is ) a much lighter set, but they must be strong, I'm thinking now of going with a son 28 hub up front and xt on the rear ,any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2012, 10:46:29 pm »
H jags,

You asked me elsewhere about dynohubs and the new, lightweight wheels you're contemplating.  Yes, the heavy Schmidt/SON series of dynohubs is compatible with your wishes for a lightweight wheelset.  With the hub weight so close to the axle, you won't notice it when riding or accelerating, and having it will open up an entire world of reliable lighting options for you.  There's some really, really nice LED head- and taillights out there, and there's nothing to match the convenience of having them on the bike and ready to go, with no battery worries or concerns.

Though SON have newer dynamos out that weigh a bit less and have less drag, they are also optimized for the lower power requirements of LED headlights -- with less power required, they also offer less drag and weight.  It's a good tradeoff for many people, but I deliberately chose to go with the older SON28 for my needs.  I wanted to generate as much power at low speed as possible so I can easily charge batteries while on-tour.  As it happens, I can power my lights and charge batteries at once, though the battery charging takes place much faster with the lights off.   Having compared the figures and spun-up one of the newer hubs, I'm happy I went with the old. The difference in drag is virtually unnoticeable on the road to me, but the difference in power produced is.  If you decide to go for on-board charging like the Tout Terrain The Plug 2, you'd definitely want the higher-output, older model SON28 dynamo.

If you don't have the battery-charging needs I do, jags, then you might prefer one of the newer SON Deluxe or related hubs with a bit less drag and weight.  It won't really matter much for LED lighting, but will if you intend to power your GPS or charge up a phone and such.  If you think you'll even someday use your dynohub to charge batteries, then again, I'd strongly suggest the more powerful dynohub.

For what it's worth, here's my setup:
HEADLIGHT:
 - B&M HL Lumotec IQ Cyo R Senso Plus nearfield LED headlight.  "Nearfield" means it lights up the road starting about a meter away from the light itself, so it is great for seeing glass in bike paths and for picking one's way along dirt tracks and such -- that dark "hole" near the bike is filled with light.  Though others might differ, I think the nearfield pattern produces a generally more usable light for all-'round commuting/touring use than the more powerful "T" model, which is dark near the bike and places most of the extra light at the far reaches of its range.  That model would be more ideal if you're a fast night-rider, however.  It has a "standlight" which means it is equipped with super-capacitors that work like a rechargeable battery to keep the light running while you are stopped for traffic signs and such, instead of being left dead in the water (and dark!) when stopped.  This feature is really handy and gives one time to find their shed and door keys once home, or to read a map while stopped in the road.  The light isn't as bright in standlight mode as when the bike is moving, but it is certainly usable.  Mine stays on for about 4.5 minutes after I've stopped before it runs out of juice.  The "Senso" option means the light switch has three positions: Manual Off, Manual On, and Sensor On.  In the last setting, a little light sensor will turn the light on and off as needed (say, at dusk or when entering and leaving a tunnel).  They have cleverly incorporated a timer to prevent car headlights from switching it on and off accidentally.

There were some problems with these lights early in their production run (see the "broken Cyo" threads on this forum), but my current model is proving reliable and I have heard good reports from other recent purchasers.

The IQ Cyo's case is available in black or silver-colored plastic with an aluminum heat-sink in the top to keep the LED cool enough to operate at higher efficiency. The switch is a shielded rotary design with detents.  The more deluxe Schmidt Edelux has a far more robust case made of aluminum that bleeds off more heat and allows for a bit higher output from the LED.  It also has a wonderful magnetic switch and is exquisite in design and execution.  It does not at present offer the nearfield light pattern but has essentially the same optics and features otherwise and naturally costs more than the budget-minded IQ Cyo.

TAILLIGHT:
 - B&M Toplight Line Plus LED taillight.  Like the headlight, it also has a standlight function, with a separate switch to extinguish the light so your bike won't stand out and attract thieves when parked in a rack or when one is wild camping and wishes to remain stealthy once stopped.  It instantly relights if the bike is moved.  The thing that makes this taillight special is the full-width reflector and use of 2 LEDs instead of the usual one.  The LEDs are filtered by a prism that spreads their light across the entire taillight, making it far more visible than other designs.  A study referred to by B&M indicates the wider light makes it easier for following car drivers to judge their distance from a bicycle when overtaking.  Compared to some earlier B&M taillight designs, this one has a really secure lens that does not pop off when bumped or when going through potholes and such on rough roads.

Supplemented with an extra-bright LED blinky taillight like the PDW Radbot 1000 and/or the Blackburn Mars 4.0, I think you'd be set for pretty much anything including a traffic-dense commute or curvy rural lanes with limited sightlines for overtaking traffic.  For dedicated trail use, you might wish to supplement forward lighting with a battery light or a second Q Cyo for regular all-night riding. For touring on dark rural roads away from lights, I have found the generator head- and taillights to be enough to allow me to easily see without strain.  The IQ headlight beam is created by the LED (aimed rearward) shining on a shaped mirror reflector. The result is a true rectangular beam on the roadway about the width of one traffic lane.  It is certainly enough to fill a bike path from edge to edge, and the illumination is very even.  Like all lights, it is less bright or apparent on wet tarmac or asphalt and much moreso on grass and dirt. In my opinion, white LEDs are where it's at for headlights, but their sightly bluish, stark white beam makes it hard for some people to judge contrast and obstacles as well as, say, the more yellowish beam of a halogen or krypton incandescent bulb.

This setup plus the lighter weight spokes, rims, tubes and tires you've mentioned earlier should give you a nice set of lights and the lively feel you're seeking.

As for the rear hub, you won't go wrong with XT.  However, if long life and low maintenance appeal to you, then I would suggest considering a rear hub with user-replaceable shielded cartridge bearings, often referred to as "sealed" bearings.  When they die, just pop in a new set and the entire hub will be virtually as-new.  Along these lines, you may wish to consider the offerings from Hope and Phil Wood.  Pricey, but I've never regretted buying the older Phil Wood hubs on two of my bikes.  I do wish they were the later design with field-serviceable bearings, but with >28,000 miles on one of the bikes and >35,000 miles on another, they show no sign of problems. Except for the Sherpa's rear wheel and the tandem, all my other bikes use hubs with replaceable cartridge bearings and I have been very happy with them.  Just take a spare pair of bearings on a world tour if concerned.  In a pinch, worn cartridges can still be repacked by prying off the seals, dunking them in a solvent tank, squirting in fresh grease, and popping the seals back on.

Any of these hubs with your preferred Velocity Synergy rims laced 3-cross with 15g spokes should make for some strong, light wheels.  If you went with 32 hole hubs and rims instead of 36, I think you'd be fine for the riding you prefer, but your options to reuse the hub would be more limited (couldn't transfer it to a 36-hole rim). Given this and the fact they'll be running on the sturdy Sherpa frame, I'd go for 36 spokes throughout.  It's only 4 more spokes and nipples per rim, and they'll be shorter/lighter on a 26" rim than on a 700c.   Add in some lightweight tubes and road slicks, and you'll have back much of the feel of your road bike, jags, albeit with the heavier Sherpa frame.  The carbon fork you're considering will possibly be a bit more comfortable, but I believe I'd wait on ordering it until I'd tried the wheels awhile.  No use buying something you might not need, or need enough to be worth the extra cost.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2012, 12:32:04 am by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2012, 06:27:19 pm »
Dan thanks a million for all that info excellent  .i have duely noted all the components you reccomended  i will go with that build as soon as i can afford .i hope Dave the resident wheel builder on this forum is taking notes

jags

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2012, 07:25:36 pm »
You're welcome, jags; my pleasure.  

There's lots of ways to go with lighter wheels, and if weight alone were a concern, I'd surely suggest lighter offerings -- double-butted spokes, 32-hole at most, lighter rims.  High-end lightweight prebuilt wheels are always an option.  Take a look at these wonders...  
http://www.bikerumor.com/2011/04/14/easton-debuts-carbon-rimmed-ultra-lightweight-ec90-xc-wheels-26-and-29er/

There's many different ways to go, all valid; mine is just one opinion for your needs and I'm sure others will offer some of their own.  Every wheelbuilder has their own preferences and pet combos they've come to prefer.  I think building preparation and technique count more than equipment when it comes to good wheels that stay strong and true.  As for equipment and brands, it is horses for courses (and riders, bikes, and uses).  There's no one right way.

You also mentioned your son might tackle the build as a first-time wheelbuilder.  The straight-gauge spokes will go together quickly and with minimal fuss for a first-timer; beginners usually have more trouble building, tensioning, and truing with double-butted spokes due to the extra wind-up and may not realize the need to stabilize the butts when truing; it is extra fuss.

You want your Sherpa to feel more lively and still be reliable for general all-round use and some light touring, not racing at one extreme or heavy touring at the other and you want good lighting.  My suggestions aren't very exotic, but should help give the feel you're seeking while being reliable.  Among my bikes, I've put close to a hundred-thousand miles on similar wheels with no problems (700C Mavic MA2 rims, Phil hubs, 36-15g spokes, 3x, 23-32mm road slicks).  They've stayed true and worked well as all-'rounders, covering everything from touring on gravel and fire roads with 22kg loads to 400km day rides, but I'm pretty easy on equipment, wheels especially.  One can always fine-tune the feel by fitting tires appropriate to the ride and use.  

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 16, 2012, 09:11:03 pm by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2012, 11:37:59 pm »
say Dan just a quick question what would you think of conti slicks for touring .i spotted them yesterday in the local bikeshop and they looked ok , i put punctures down to bad luck ;D
but would they cope with the extra weight. i have a marathon plus on the rear and a 25 year slick up front well i dont use the front panniers.

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2012, 12:40:36 am »
jags,

I can better advise you if I know your weight + the weight of the bike + the weight you intend to carry.  Let me know that, and I can get much closer with a reccie for you!   ;)

Will you be mostly on smooth pavement, or will there be potholes, cobbles, and some gravel and such?  Remember, you can always change tires if you need to in order to better suit conditions.  From our earlier convos, I'm thinking most of your riding will be club riding, where the Sherpa will substitute for one of your other road bikes?

Best,

Dan.

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #6 on: January 17, 2012, 05:40:41 am »
jags,

I feel kinda bad suggesting narrow tires as there will be a price to pay in harshness, vibration, and rolling resistance compared to wider tires, but since your goal is to make the Sherpa feel more like one of your dedicated road bikes, well...here's my best shot at it:

There's three contenders you might wish to consider in the 26" road-slick category...

1) Schwalbe Kojak HS 385 slick, 26x1.35 @ 295g (folding bead; 395g for wire bead) and 55-95psi. ~ handles a 90kg load.
See: http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/city/citytyres/sportcontact/sportcontact_en.html

2) Continental SportContact slick, 26x1.3 @ 350g and 70-85psi.
/or/................................................. 26x1.6 @ 500g and 65-80psi
See: http://www.conti-online.com/generator/www/de/en/continental/bicycle/themes/city/citytyres/sportcontact/sportcontact_en.html

3) Bontrager SR1 slick, 26x1.25 @ 345g (wire bead) and probably 90psi, but they don't say.
/or..................................26x1.50 @ the same weight, which has to be a typo.  Pressure unknown.
See: http://bontrager.com/model/09094

I favor these tires in the order listed.  The also range from most expensive to cheapest at time of purchase. The lightest are the Kojaks with folding beads. The Bontragers are cheapest at purchase, with MSRP of USD$27.99 online or from a Trek dealer and are roughly 50%-60% the cost of the other choices.  They will also have the shortest lifespan, so they may not be the cheapest over their lifetime since you'll have to replace them sooner.  They are the successor to the Trek/Bontrager Road Warrior 26x1.5" slicks I run on my tandem (85psi) and I have been pleased with their performance but not their life.  Since I got mine on closeout for only USD$5.95 apiece,  :o  I really don't care if they don't last very long.  ;D  At $28, I'd care.  If they were $60 apiece or more, I'd care a great deal indeed!

Be sure to shop around, as tire prices vary a lot.  I got my spare folding Schwalbe 26x2.0 Duremes last October for only USD$59.80 each online, factory-fresh and postpaid with return privilege.  They commonly sell for USD$75-$80 plus shipping here in the States.  The best price at a LBS was USD$85 each and they were old and dried-out from sitting too long near the shop's ozone-emitting air compressor .  For what I saved, I could almost have purchased a third tire; the difference was just too much to buy locally, old and with no return privilege if they had not suited on examination or proven faulty.

A Google Product Search will give you the base price, the shipping, and the totals for comparison.  There are some real variations in price.  Here's an example for the Conti SportContacts -- they range from USD$31-$65 here in the States at this writing.  Prices can change hourly.  See:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&biw=1296&bih=607&q=continental+sport+contact+26x1.3&gs_upl=1224l13766l0l13785l40l20l2l5l5l3l1658l7852l0.4.4.5.1.3.1.0.1l26l0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_cp.,cf.osb&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=73650172321617436&sa=X&ei=0QgVT-HDOaijiAKk_uzqDw&ved=0CFsQ8wIwAQ

You'll want to go with lightweight tubes as well, and you'll need to keep an eye on the pressure to prevent rim damage, just as on your road bikes.  Please note, I generally like slicks in the wet, dry, and on gravel; lots of people do not.  Also, not all the above slicks handle the same (for example, Conti treads feel kinda dry and plasticky to me compared to the sidewalls and other brands.  Other people like the feel on pavement; I tend to prefer a more sticky-rubbery characteristic.  It's down to individual preference).  It would pay to read the reviews and see if the users' perspectives match your needs.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2012, 12:50:46 am by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2012, 09:01:19 pm »
Dan your a true gent thanks for all your expert help. i know the kojak tire you talk about seen them on my friends beautiful raven sports.i have a lad in the uk who will build the wheels he recommends
rigeda snyper rims
sapin 14 gram spokes
shimano lx rear hub
he has a son 28 dynamo hub but said its for a 20 ins wheel its the older model as far as i know.
now what do you reckon on that wheel build this will be a one time efford so i need to get it right any changes please let me know Dan ,i will email him back with the best choice for me.
thanks again. ;)

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2012, 09:55:54 pm »
jags,

I'm just delighted your new wheels are on the horizon and I can't wait to hear how they work for you -- good on you!  This is pretty exciting stuff.  If you're anything like me, you haven't finished spec'ing them yet and are already looking up the lane, waiting for the delivery truck to come 'round the bend.

As for your friend's suggestions on components, I think they're all good and you won't go wrong for your stated needs.  Let's take a look at the pieces together...

1) Rigida Snyper rims.  A good choice, I think.  Reasonably narrow, but also reasonably strong and light. The delta rim shape will make for shorter spokes.  I think they'll do fine for you.  And, you'll have a choice of black or silver.  Now the hard part -- which will it be?  Decisions!  ;)  I really like Rigida rims overall.  I also love my old-school Mavics from back in the day and laid-in a back-stock of double-eyeleted 700C MA-2s, but Mavic's more recent products have experienced some problems with cracking.  Rigida seem to be doing really well, with nice tight rim joints, arriving round and true and are quick and easy to build up.  The Snypers have double walls and single eyelets but also have a lot of "meat" around the spoke seats, which bodes well.  I haven't read much about the 26" version, but word on the 'Net is people are very satisfied with the 700C version for light-to-medium touring and all-'round day-ride use.  Sound like the ticket for your needs.

2) Sapim 14g spokes.  No quibble there; Sapim make fine spokes.  The 14 gauge will be a bit heavier than you might want for the lightest wheels, but they will also provide sturdy, reliable wheels with a minimum of after-build fuss and worry.  I think they'll combine well with the rims your friend suggested, and will tip the balance in your favor for sturdy wheels.  Did your friend mention how many spokes per wheel?  I presume he is recommending 36...?

3) Shimano LX hub.  Nothing to detract from this.  A reasonable price, yet with an excellent service life and readily-available replacement parts.  They are also very nicely sealed against the weather and should last a reasonable amount of time and won't break the bank.  A good choice.

4) SON28 dynamo.  I think there may be some confusion here with regard to the model designation.  jags, I'd suggest checking this one carefully to make sure it is what you want before you commit.  I have the older SON28 (now called the "Classic"; all the NOS for Fall 2011 is of the new SON28 design), which is intended for 28" (700C) and 26" wheels.  There is a model intended primarily for 20" wheels (in January 2010, the 20R became the SonDelux).  It is often the choice for randonneur riders because it has a it less drag, but it also produces less power.  Because it is intended for smaller rims, it won't produce as much electricity a low speeds, so you may be disappointed if that's what you're seeking.  It also is not the hub of choice if you wish to charge batteries.  However, if you want minimal drag and will be riding fast most of the time (and I suspect you may!), then this might be just the ticket for you.  There will be plenty of light to power LED head- and taillights, but again, you'll have to be going a bit faster to get the maximum output.  It's a reasonable tradeoff.  Just ask yourself whether you're a speedy night rider or a slower one, and you'll have part of the answer.  The other part will be determined by whether you wish to charge batteries or not.

Here's the summary:
= Desire more light at slower speeds, max output at low speeds, want to charge batteries and don't mind a bit more weight and drag, then go with older SON28.

= Desire to ride at higher speeds, will only be using LED lights and don't mind them coming on at a bit higher low speed and won't be charging batteries, then go for the newer lower-drag/lower-output models or the one intended for 20" wheels. 

There is one additional caution I would offer -- the SON20R/Delux has narrower flanges, which can make for a wheel that is less stiff/strong laterally (sideways).  A new wide-body SON Delux is due by the end of this month, if you desire one. The wide-body hub shell has flanges that are 18mm further apart.  For a good discussion of the different currentmodels, see: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/schmidt.asp

Remember, there's a lot of older SON hubs still in the shops waiting to be sold, and those may be available for a bit of a bargain now the new models have arrived.

Also, with regard to the SON hubs, you'll likely have a choice between a gorgeous silver polished-aluminum finish and a nice, architectural black-anodized finish.  Either looks good, but the polished finish will require more care (polishing) to stay pretty, and can be badly stained and pitted/corroded by road salts.  The black will stay looking nice without fuss.  Now, you'll have do decide about matching color of hub to rim.  What a fun dilemma!   ;D

<nods>  Yes, I understand this is a one-shot deal and the need to get it right; these things are pricey, for sure.  I think you'll do fine with your friend's suggestions. The result should be a nice set of light wheels at a reasonable price -- a good value.   Just check out the specifics on the dynohub to make sure it is what you want/need.  Look at it this way, jags...if the worst should happen and the wheels don't do what you'd like for the Sherpa, you'll likely be able to sell them without any trouble and go back to what you have (hang onto the originals, at least for awhile).  Not the result you want, but it takes a bit of the edge off the uncertainty.

Please let us know how it all comes out, jags; excited and pleased for you!

Best,

Dan.

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2012, 10:54:50 pm »
i will email him during the week so and get a price on the build .i wont be able to get them until later on this year. january and febuary are bad months for me  ::)
he told me the son hub he has is  second hand so i might just go with a new son28 36 spoke in sil ver i do like shiney things ;D ;D. i will let you know how i get on thanks again Dan.
btw hows that beautiful sherpa getting on are you having fun. have you loaded it up yet and taking it her /him for a decent spin yet ;)
cheers
jags.

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2012, 11:54:36 pm »
Quote
have you loaded it up yet and taking it her /him for a decent spin yet

I will need to spend more time with him to know for sure, but I'm pretty sure he's a boy-bike and not a girl one.  :D  Actually, he reminds me of the sturdy, compact Dutch-Belgian draft horses that are used in clay-soil plowing competitions in Zeeland, South Holland.  A website devoted to them says ...
Quote
Not surprisingly, he is the heaviest of all the Dutch horses, making him the horse of choice for hauling heavy loads for extended periods.
See: http://www.angelfire.com/ns/littlehoof/dutch.html  Yep -- Sounds like Sherpa!  jags, I've got to come up with a proper name for the little fellow.  So far, it's been "Sherpa", but I think he needs something a bit more personal, don't you think?

Unfortunately, no overnighters yet, but I have loaded him all up several different ways for some long day rides, and he handles beautifully on all surfaces from smooth pavement to really rough washboard gravel and cross-country on deer trails.  I really liked the Miyata 1000LT I used as my previous expedition bike, but it would have been outmatched with the same loads.  It is the food and water weight that is killing me on the long, solo, self-supported rides in the remote regions.

Right now, western Oregon is being slammed by a cold front that has come down from Alaska.  Lots of snow north of us in Seattle and Portland, and it snowed at the Coast yesterday, turning the sand white.  Our light dusting of snow turned to ice in the hills around town and caused a lot of traffic accidents but melted quickly by yesterday Noon here in the southern Willamette Valley.  Looking out my window as I type, I see the Coburg Hills to the east are all white with a heavy coating of snow.  More is expected tonight and a great deal more in the Coast Range and Cascade mountains.  A quick look at the traffic webcams shows whiteout conditions at my favorite cycling pass, Tombstone. The camera has been stuck on the same scene for the last two hours, so I'm guessing it froze (see pic.  If you want to see what's going on here weatherwise, here's the link http://www.tripcheck.com/Pages/CamerasEntry.asp ).  When things clear up a bit, Sherpa and I will head out with the little green tent and orange sleeping bag to see how it goes.  I can't wait and he's getting excited too.  Lots of new ideas and toys to try out, including my new clothesline.   Pictures of the full load soon.

Hang tight, jags, and March will arrive before you know it, bringing your new wheels.  They'll be worth waiting for I'm sure, and just in time for better riding weather.  If the used hub is in good shape and what you want it might be fine, but with new you wouldn't have to worry and it would carry a warranty.  Silver will be great and you're right -- shiny things always look good!

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2012, 12:53:12 am by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2012, 12:19:38 am »
wow that weather shot looks really cold its nice and mild over here in ireland, isn't this internet thing wonderful i'm new to all this  ;D my son is over there in truckee hope i spelled that right he's a mural artist working with a guy called John Pugh be of a genius mr pugh my sons site is noelkelly art see him on facebook any way he was a great cyclist raced in belgium for a while but gave it all up taught he fell in love  ::)

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2012, 12:45:08 am »
Oh, you can be proud of that one, jags; your son's got the talent, he has!  I looked through his works on Facebook and they're remarkable.  My favorite has got to be the marbleized finish he applied to his uncle's gun.  That's functional beauty, right there -- exquisite.  That, and the painting of the old gent refinishing the table.  Wonderful murals and wall art, and those faux tiles and marble effects, well, they surely had me fooled; looked like the real thing.  I really liked his St. Francis quote as well.  Worth repeating here, if I may:
Quote
“He who works with his hands is a laborer.
He who works with his hands and his head is a craftsman.
He who works with his hands and his head and his heart is an artist.”
? St. Francis of Assisi

Spot on! 

You're right -- Mr. Pugh is a genius; I've never seen murals like his.  Incredible.

Thanks so much for the link, jags.  All worth a look for anyone who appreciates art, both public and private.

Best,

Dan.

jags

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2012, 06:15:20 pm »
Thanks Dan reah he has a great talent right enough he has a fixed wheel hanging in the shed he's going to get a powder coat finish on it and then give it a marble effect should look good.
anyway got a price from the lad in the uk £350 thats with the new son 28 hub  ;)
at least now i have the price and a good wheel choice.
thanks for the help
btw the marble effect on gun my brother won the world champship in america with that gun  ;)

Danneaux

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Re: advice on new wheels please.
« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2012, 08:17:30 pm »
Quote
...got a price from the lad in the uk £350 thats with the new son 28 hub

Compared to costs on this side, I think you got a deal, jags, and a good one at that!  Here, you'd pay USD$285 (GBP185 at present)for the new SON28 alone (in polished silver; extra for black).  Add in the spokes, rims, and labor for the pair and yeah, it looks good.   ;D

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2012, 08:24:17 pm by Danneaux »