Author Topic: Danneaux's Sherpa  (Read 57497 times)

jags

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #15 on: January 15, 2012, 04:44:00 pm »
thanks for that Dan yeah i did buy from amazon  mount but it only fits on the bars, and the back of the  garmin was the wrong model  ,i just went for the legend i should have went for the hcx bracket .anyway I'll know better next time. ;)
so that stem cap obviously you need a hub dynamo as well expensive.
when i can afford it i want lighter wheels think i told you this, but would the hub dynamo defeat the purpose.  .
« Last Edit: January 15, 2012, 07:02:09 pm by jags »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #16 on: January 15, 2012, 04:53:18 pm »
Jags,

The farther you hang weight away from the axle on a wheel, the more you will feel it in terms of acceleration.  If you want a heavy dynohub with otherwise light wheels, go for it; you'll hardly notice the extra weight so close to the axle.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 15, 2012, 05:31:54 pm by Danneaux »

jags

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #17 on: January 15, 2012, 07:09:05 pm »
obviously you like the sun hub maybe i'll go with that, is there a model number i should be going with, what about rims any suggestions on light but strong rims, i think i'll stick with xt on the rear and go for the sun hub up front .hope i'm not bending your ear to much but hey ask someone who knows these things ;)
jags.

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #18 on: January 15, 2012, 07:30:29 pm »
HI jags,

Glad to help!  Prob'ly best for you to start a new topic under the "Wheels, Tyres, and Brakes" section so the topic can be more easily searched in the future.  Once there, I'll be happy to offer some suggestions regarding specifics.

All the best,

Dan.

Andybg

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #19 on: January 15, 2012, 07:46:30 pm »
Fantastic photos Dan.

I have decided the next Thorn I buy I am going to employ you to spec it.

Cheers

Andy

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #20 on: January 15, 2012, 09:19:57 pm »
Aw, thanks Andre, Andy; I hold the Forum's members and their experience in high esteem, so this means a lot. 

I've had such fun spec'ing and customizing the bike to my needs as I have my other bikes.  The Thorn Sherpa (and all their models, I'm sure) is very well-conceived and makes a wonderful platform for customization.  Much of what I have done would not have been possible with another frame.

As a hobbyist framebuilder, I had seriously considered brazing my desired exped touring frame from scratch, as I have my full-sus Folder and recumbent.  However, the Sherpa had all I desired ready-to-go, so it was easy to cave to temptation.   I braze, rather than weld, but the beads laid down by my Sherpa's builders are as clean and well-radiused as a nicely-laid fillet.

Best to all,

Dan.

Andre Jute

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #21 on: January 16, 2012, 11:51:06 pm »
Dan, what's the make and model of your motion alarm? It looks like something I might like. 

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #22 on: January 17, 2012, 02:19:56 am »
Andre,

My alarm is the "Gallop" brand, model JX-610, instructions revised 2010-05 (black unit, silver-colored combination-membrane keypad setting, blue cardboard box w/photos that don't relate to the specific contents), one of many identical ones listed on eBay for ridiculously low prices, including shipping from China or Hong Kong. I paid USD$4.25 including shipping, then spent another USD$8 or so to power it with a lithium 9-volt battery for long life and so it would be cold-tolerant through the winter.  

Various ads list different decibel levels for the alarm.  The are probably all identical, but I picked one with the loudest rating -- I think it was listed as 115dBA vs. 85dBA.  It is reasonably loud; terribly so if you're leaning over it at the time or don't expect it.  Intended for the thief, you won't hear it for blocks as you would a typical car alarm and likely wouldn't hear it inside a store if the bike was parked outside.  The sensitivity adjustment is nice and works well.

Use the eBay search term "Bicycle Alarm" to find it; the model you want is the one I have, shown in the attached auction pic.  I'm reluctant to post an individual eBay auction link as it would favor a particular vendor and the auctions close so quickly it wouldn't remain viable.  For your convenience, here is a link to the search term that brings them up on US eBay at present:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=bicycle+alarm&_in_kw=1&_ex_kw=&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_okw=bicycle+alarm&_oexkw=&_adv=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_ftrt=901&_ftrv=1&_sabdlo=&_sabdhi=&_samilow=&_samihi=&_sadis=200&_fpos=Zip+code&_fsct=&LH_SALE_CURRENCY=0&_sop=12&_dmd=1&_ipg=50

A typical description:
Quote
Introduction:
Traditional chains, padlocks and U Locks only do half a job and can be pretty easily removed by those who know how, but even the sight of this alarm will have even the most determined of thieves thinking twice.If your bike is moved, the alarm will spring into action and give off an ear-shattering shriek for 15 seconds.No thief will want to hang around when this alarm goes off. 3 sensitivity levels allow you to determine how much movement is needed to trigger the alarm. When triggered alarm had already sounded for 5 times, If triggered again within 5 seconds , it will sound continuously for 15 seconds. I'm sure so
powerful function must can protect your bicycle effectively.

Features:
1.New and high quality
2.Waterproof: attach permanently to your bike without worrying about having to remove it in bad weather
3.Material: Sturdy black plastic - no metal parts to rust
4.Fit for: Bicycle
5.Power supply: 1 x 6F22 9V battery (No include)
6.Dimensions: 3.8" x 1.4" x 2.4"
7.Color: Black

Package included:
1 x Bicycle alarm
3 x Screws
1 x Use Instruction

On my scale, the alarm itself weighs in at 57g/2oz, and a lithium 9-volt battery adds another 40g/1.4oz.  An alkaline 9-volt battery would be 45g/1.6oz, but doesn't last as long or work as well in cold weather.  Settings and on/off are by a waterproof membrane keypad.  I would suggest a thin strip of rubber beneath (as with a bike computer mount) to prevent slippage or rotation.  The unit must be unbolted to access the sliding battery door.  I figure on using mine when I park the bike in the restroom and am in a stall, or at night when I wild-camp to alert me to/scare porcupines, deer, marmots and such that may be attracted to the saltier portions of the bicycle (handlebar tape, saddle).  It can't hurt to set the thing when I have to lock the bike outside a rural grocery store while I am inside buying provisions.

And, of course, it looks kinda cool in a geeky sort of way.   ;)

Given the cheap price, I would suggest buying 2-3 and counting on 1-2 working.  That was my success:failure rate, and the ones that worked have remained reliable.  The hassle and cost of a return with international shipping makes no sense; I can't match their shipping rates.  Juggling the cost overall, I figure it ended up costing me about USD$7-$8 per working unit; still a pretty good deal.

And, too, it is fun to play with.  Play value is worth something.  :D

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 17, 2012, 05:39:38 pm by Danneaux »

Andre Jute

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #23 on: January 17, 2012, 05:38:26 pm »
Thanks, Dan. It looks geeky enough and all it needs to do in my situation is startle some opportunistic kid. A pro will never even consider stealing a bike as visibly rare and easily identifiable as mine. -- Andre

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #24 on: January 26, 2012, 01:26:16 am »
Several of you have asked if my Sherpa's taillights are daylight-visible. I was curious too, since I can't see them while riding. Today, I asked my sister to take a photo as I rode to the end of my street, and here's what we got (25 January, cloudy/overcast at 3:51PM/15:51, 700ft/213m away, cropped and enlarged). She says the picture captured the lights in a realistic way. She took the photo off-axis, from an overtaking driver's perspective.

The light on the left is a Portland Design Works (PDW) Radbot 1000 1-watt LED battery blinky. The light on the center of the rack is a B&M Toplight Line Plus, powered by the SON28.  It uses two LEDs behind a prism lens to produce a solid, wide line of light. At night, the stray light in the case also lights the full-width reflector. Both lights are visible from the side.

At night on bike paths and country roads, I use just the Line Plus taillight. On rural roads with limited sightlines and in traffic, I also use the Radbot 1000 (choice of solid on or two flash modes).  I usually also attach a Blackburn Mars 4.0 1-watt LED blinky to my rack pack on those occasions. I have honeycomb-prism neon yellow retro-reflectve tape on my helmet, rearview mirror, and shoe heels. At night, I add a silver-white Reflexite bandoleer visible from all directions.  Daytime sees a bright jersey or a neon-yellow rain- or wind-jacket; I believe the greater surface area of clothing makes a bigger difference to conspicuity than bike color.

I'm delighted the taillights are this bright on an overcast day with rain soon to fall.  A car driver caught me at a traffic light this afternoon and asked about them, saying I was much easier to see than other bikes on the roadside path.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 02:14:53 am by Danneaux »

StuntPilot

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #25 on: January 26, 2012, 03:03:38 pm »
Dan
Thanks for a lot of great info! I am considering buying a Click-Stand and also have the 105mm accessory bar on my Raven Tour (you noticed it on another thread!).

Did you buy the side-attach mount from http://www.click-stand.com/Click-Stand_Products.html or is it some other mount (which?). Also is your Click-Stand 4, 5 or 6 section? I think that the accessory bar is the best place to put it to save fiddling in a bag. Also the 'under-water-bottle' option may stick out and get caught off-road.

Grateful again for your advice!  ;)

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #26 on: January 26, 2012, 06:37:08 pm »
Richard,

I got the center-bracket mount and 4-segment Click-stand.  Read on for a bit more explanation...

I wasn't sure which mount would best fit my needs, so I ordered both the center and side-mounts (the USD$7 or $8 difference would have been a wash in postage alone if I'd bought only one and it proved wrong).  After looking at every possible mounting position, I thought the safest (paint scratches) and most convenient option (convenient ease of use, no snagging of rain pants) was to put the Center-bracket on the underside of the Thorn 105mm Accessory T-bar. I set the brake-bands and remove the stand while still astride the bike, then swing a leg over and deploy the mount in one continuous motion.

Tom Nostrant uses repurposed Topeak pump holders, which hold the Click-stand nicely ( http://www.click-stand.com/Click-Stand_Products.html ). Topeak calls the one I used a "Centerline Mount Bracket for Mt. Rocket"; Tom calls it a Center-Bracket.  It uses a synthetic rubber band and comes with some rubber pads to prevent shifting when affixed using zip-ties, as I did.  The rubber band has a pull-tab held by two slots and can be reversed.  I put the tab facing me on the bike (rearward) for convenience.  I also slightly rounded the corners of the tab-holder with a Dremel spiral cutter so it would be a bit easier on the band than the otherwise sharp-angled corners.  I use the Click-Stand at every stop, and so far there is no sign of wear on the rubber band in these early days.

The plastic holder goes more than halfway around the folded 4-segment Click-Stand, with the rubber band filling the gap at the bottom.  Time will tell if this holds up, but it looks very promising so far.  If I'd had the space to still allow easy access, I might have put it atop the T-bar, but it is a bit crowded there with the Ortlieb HB mount and brake cable housings, as you can see.  The velcro used in the side-mount (other) holder is no fun to use in this location, as one just sort of chases the velcro around the mount.  I may try it at some point in the future, but this is working so nicely I'm happy at present. I plan to keep an eye on it for the long-term. I think the velcro mount could be slightly modified to work well in this location, and would suggest getting it also to keep on hand in case you have any doubts.  It's possible the band may fail over time, though a nitrile o-ring with a homemade pull-tab could be substituted.  I do think the velcro side-mount would work better with Click-stands having more segments; it appears to better accommodate a fatter package.

I found I needed to affix the Ortlieb HB mount to the T-bar first.  I attached the wire for it in the conventional way, and not as recommended by Thorn (see their note and illustration here: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/thorn-accessory-bar-t-shaped-105-mm-extension-0-deg-prod11040/ ).  Winding it around so many times as they suggested left slack I could not take up; the normal method worked fine for me.  By the way, to allow for sag under a full handlebar bag load, I've found it helpful to position the mount at the same angle as the head tube.  The Click-Stand center mount is offset to one side as shown by the red arrows in the photos below, and uses the included pads to keep it from shifting.  It is very secure, and is as fast as putting it in the handlebar bag, which I do not always use.  Be sure to use hefty zip-ties, and make sure they're good and tight to prevent movement.  My favorite tool for tightening zip-ties is a Hozan (HKC) Fourth Hand, intended for brake cables.  Pull from the front and slice off the excess zip-ties and you'll be fine.

I pondered long and hard over how many segments I should specify for my Click-Stand Max.  It comes down to shorter=fatter, longer=skinnier.  I found the 4-segment model would still fit in my handlebar bag, and it fits better in the mount, so that's what I got.  I also reasoned that fewer segments/joints should make a stronger stand in my worst-case scenario -- parking on a slope with a full load in a high wind that required substantially more "lean" than usual.  The four-segment model also works nicely with the extra bulk of the Fat-Foot, which I also ordered.  When mounted on the T-bar with my setup, the four-segment model also clears my top tube when the handlebars swing around.  This clearance might vary with frame size, so be sure to check before mounting permanently.

You'll probably need to assemble the brake bands yourself.  Just make sure the bungees are even in the zipper-pull tab-teeth, and mash them shut with some (padded) pliers, checking to make sure the pull-tab is completely engaged and shut.  I used fisherman's pliers, because their smooth jaws close parallel and did a nice job.  Failing to close the tabs is the most likely reason a brake band could part.  I use interrupter levers with my drop 'bars, so I installed four brake bands; they weigh nothing and it is convenient to have spares already mounted in case they are needed.  I have another pair tucked away in my spares bin for the future.

Before ordering, you might give some thought to where you'll place the cradle.  I chose a spot about midway between the top-tube's rearmost brake cable stop and the seat tube, and it has worked fine and is in the butted section of the top tube.  Be sure the bike is truly vertical when you measure.  My 560S Sherpa with 26x2.0 Duremes at mid-pressure gave me a measurement of 30.0". Despite my initial concerns, the slope of the top tube has not been a problem.  I put a piece of Trim-brite matte automotive windshield trim tape around the top tube so the rubber-coated cradle wouldn't scuff the paint with repeated use.  I can use the stand on either side, which is nice when loading the bike.  I do put considerably more lean on the bike than Tom recommends.  I generally place the stand with enough lean the pedal on that side will clear it or nearly clear it when the crank is turned.  This greatly reduces the possibility of a tipover and it also helps to turn the front wheel in the same direction as the stand.  Be sure to set the brake bands before you deploy the stand. In really soft soil or muddy grass, I look for a rock to place under the Click-stand Fat Foot.  I sometimes carry an aluminum can lid in my HB bag if I'm going into country where I expect a lot of soft soil; it really hasn't proven to be a problem for me, though it has for some.

Any more questions, feel free to ask!  ;D

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 09:46:15 pm by Danneaux »

StuntPilot

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #27 on: January 26, 2012, 09:32:30 pm »
Dan

Great info as usual! And a lot to think about. Thanks again for the detailed reply. I am inclined to follow your centre-bracket advice. May opt for a 5-section Click-Stand. The side-bracket may not fit the bar as well as the centre-bracket. I have enough space on the top-side of the T-bar so will probably try that depending on cable routing. I share your concerns for the long-term stability of the 'rubber-band' material that attaches the Click-Stand but it could simply be replaced if it broke I suppose. Anyway, a lot of info to think about and it is getting late here! Will review again and post my final solution when I receive the Click-Stand and bits. Thanks again, as always, for the input to the forums. Great photos of your bike too - the first one on this thread is a real beauty!

One question - does the centre-bracket have to be off-centred due to the spacing of its holes vs. the Ortlieb bracket width?

Best Regards

Richard
« Last Edit: January 26, 2012, 10:09:03 pm by StuntPilot »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #28 on: January 26, 2012, 09:53:58 pm »
Richard,

You're welcome! I think it is a good idea to at least try placing the Click-stand mount atop the T-bar (I would if I could; it's too crowded on mine), and I very much look forward to hearing how it all works out for you.  Hopefully, you'll be as pleased with it as I have been.

Quote
One question - does the centre-bracket have to be off-centred due to the spacing of its holes vs. the Ortlieb bracket width?
Yep, that's it exactly.  Without the Ortlieb bracket, the Click-stand mount would center-up nicely on the T-bar.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: January 30, 2012, 10:16:10 am by Danneaux »

Danneaux

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Re: Danneaux's Sherpa
« Reply #29 on: February 04, 2012, 08:51:42 pm »
Hi All,

A few of you have asked me for my riding impressions, now I've owned Sherpa awhile.

While I have yet to take a lengthy loaded tour on him, he has handled very well with the same loads in day-ride tests on a variety of surfaces.  Compared to my previous Miayata 1000LT exped bike, he is far less prone to frame shimmy under load (seeing the top tube go a centimeter to each side was a...revelation...on the fully-loaded Miyata).  I am sure there are limits and, as with any bike, the handling is less affected by less weight and I prefer to carry as little as possible.  Certainly, a week's tour with ready resupply of food and water will see us carrying less than a month's solo, self-supported tenure in the desert with 16l of water and a lot of food.

On my day rides, the bike has proven ideal for poking along on dirt and bad-gravel tracks with only a rack-pack or handlebar bag. The handling is lively but predictable, with a noticeable penchant for handlebar flop only when the bike is standing alone. Not a problem in practice. I love not having to worry about my toes overlapping the front wheel/fender; in this way, he is just like my other bikes. No-overlap has long been my preference since I took some really bad falls on my first "10-speed" as a kid. It had a wicked amount of toe/fender/wheel overlap that seemed to catch with the slightest twitch of the 'bars. It might never have been a problem when riding flat roads and cornering by leaning, but grinding up 20%+ grades in low gears or picking my way along goat tracks and deer trails with a lot of steering, it was.

Although he takes longer to accelerate to speed than my other bikes, he is easy to maintain at speed once there. I put this down to the greater weight of his wheels, tires, and tubes compared to my other bikes. This poor acceleration hasn't been noticeable in my steady-state rides, but might be annoying when commuting with frequent stoplights, where there would be many more starts-from-stops. A lighter wheelset or simply lighter tubes and tires would likely help but at the expense of off-road versatility. I'll likely be staying with the 2.0 Duremes, changing to the folding versions when the wire-bead rigid models wear out.

Sherpa is proving to be a capable road bike as well, and I find myself riding in the same flat-paved-road 17-21mph/27/34kph window as on my other road/rando/touring bikes, despite his greater weight and wider tires. The one area I'm really having a hard time adjusting is the gearing and it is my problem, not his. I'm a high-rev spinner rather than a masher, and I have always adjusted my gearing in fine increments to keep a high, constant cadence. Now, I am having to adjust my road and pedaling speed to accommodate the gearing and Sherpa doesn't feel as fast in that way. He uses a standard 44/32/22 chainset and 11-34 9-sp cassette. I chose the 11-34 because it gave my favorite, most-used cruising gears with minimal chain deflection and a lower low, but the number of duplicate gears, gaps in spacing, and awkward shift sequence has me pining for the old half-step-and-granny gearing scheme of my other bikes. I will adjust, and Sherpa's coarser gearing is more ideally suited for loaded touring, which is his primary intended purpose. I could fit gearing of 44/42/22 and have a pretty ideal half-step setup with my present 11-34 cassette, but -- alas! -- there don't seem to be any front derailleurs available to handle the two-tooth chainring difference; all presently available models would snag the teeth on the middle 'ring on their way to the large chainring. I'm disciplined enough to not use the little-little ("naughty") gearing combos, but there just isn't anything currently available to make it possible.

Related to the gearing, my Q-factor is noticeably greater, but not objectionably so.  It is more akin to what I have on my tandem, and has been fine on that bike. I will keep my low-Q setups on my other bikes for as long as I can get parts. Part of my choice to get a new bike was precisely to have something contemporary for easy parts availability, and Sherpa has that with his current drivetrain. I like the advancements compared to my older rides -- external BB, threadless steerer, indexed bar-cons (the friction option is nice in the event of damage).

Braking with the Tektro main and interrupter levers and Deore v-brakes is excellent. Rim wear was rapid on initial test rides, thanks to the Shimano pads. Replacing them with "rim-friendly" Kool-stop salmons greatly reduced wear and improved feel comparable to my other bikes that run them. I apparently don't brake much compared to other riders, so I expect to get good life from the non-CSS Andra rims with these pads.

I seem to become more barrel-chested and wider-shouldered by the year, as with my ancestors, and am happy with my choice of 44cm handlebars. I feel like my chest is opened up for breathing a bit more, and they do add what feels like more leverage with a heavy front touring load. I probably would not have chosen the Zoom anatomic 'bars on my own (preferring traditional randonneur-bends), but now I have them, I like them and won't be changing.  The long steerer lets me duplicate my position on my other upswept rando bar-top corners, and the Zoom's shape allows for as many as 6 distinct hand positions . Nice. The threadless steerer is much stiffer than my old quill stems, even when they were buttressed by extended headset top-nuts. This makes the entire front of the bike feel more solid in comparison.

One difference I have noticed with Sherpa is cornering.  My other bikes -- even the 26"-wheeled touring tandem -- love to lean into corners, and that is how I ride them. In contrast, Sherpa likes to be steered, akin to a bus. I can't pinpoint the cause, since so many variables are different -- tire and wheel size, bottom bracket height, wheelbase, geometry, etc. It isn't that I can't lean into corners...it just isn't necessary. I have ridden some bikes that tried to bob up like a cork in a tub and just would not lean, but that isn't the case here. He's made plain he will if I want, but it isn't a requirement. Probably a good thing in rough conditions with low-hanging bags.

I'm pleased with Sherpa's matte-black finish and it should prove helpful when wild/stealth camping and to look inconspicuous. It does appear it may "wear-shiny" with abrasion from clothing, but it will still be black, and that's fine. I might have chosen the red if my tandem were not already that exact color. I wanted a change to something completely different and am happy.

Sorry no pics from yesterday's ride for the gallery; my camera battery was down and I have yet to rig a charger patch cord for it to mate with the Tout Terrain The Plug 2.  I did plug in my MP3 player with a dead battery (to see how it charged, I never use it while riding) and found its Li-Po battery was a third charged in 7 mi/11km and topped-up to full by the 14mi/22km mark. I was getting full USB output from The Plug by 8mph/13kph. I need to set about making charging patch cords for the phone, GPS, camera battery charger, AA/AAA chargers (for Steri-Pen and my wearable LED headlight, LED blinkys), and electric shaver. The ability to recharge on the road is beginning to sway my buying habits toward USB-rechargeable devices. Next up will be a suitable buffer battery and netbook for on-road dispatches and updates.

The SON28 is proving to be a wonder, but I can say I do notice the drag when it is charging batteries or powering lights.  Nothing overwhelming, but the difference when I turn it off or unplug the charger is noticeable. It is light-years away from the drag of even my Sanyo bottom-bracket generator, and feels close to the drag of my Dutch friend's LightSpin. When not charging or powering the lights, it feels no different than my other, non-dyno hubs.

I wish I could finally get the wobbles out of the Duremes, but have reconciled myself to some remaining, despite my careful and repeated remounting. The bead-tape is within fractional millimeters of true to the rims, but it is the tread that seems to be off, and at least one overlapping of the belts at the sidewalls. It seems to be only a matter of appearance, as I truly cannot tell any difference in riding.

The bike rides completely silently, without any objectionable chain or drivetrain noise, and there are no rattles.

More updates and pics to follow in time.

Best,

Dan.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2012, 05:54:22 pm by Danneaux »