Technical > Wheels, Tyres and Brakes

Velocity deep v rims

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ourclarioncall:
I took note of these rims when reading a forum post from 2011 and wanted to know more about them . Anyone used them or recommend them? Do they still exist

Velocity deep v rims

Thick walls , big cross section

“ they are so stupendously stiff that the spokes have to do very little work to keep the wheel true. Peter White considers them the strongest rims available“

He mentions brick lane cycles uk

PH:
Yes they still exist, you know where to look, you just posted it  ;)
I expect all wheel builders have their favorites, what was the context?  The Deep V is a bit sporty for full on touring, it's not going to take a very wide tyre.  The Velocity rim that's usually mentioned in the context of touring is the Cliff Hanger, I almost bought a pair of these a couple of years ago, but there's rims more easily available in the UK, for half the price, that look on paper to be their equal.

mickeg:
Not sure why you would want such a narrow rim.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/deep-v-622

I use the Dyad on my light touring bike, I wanted to be able to run tires in the 28 to 37mm width.
https://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims/dyad-622

If you want to use Velocity, I suggest you decide first what tire widths you want.
https://www.velocityusa.com/tech/rims/

Some of their rims are designed for tubeless, you might first want to think about whether or not you want to use tubeless or not.  It is easier to get a tire off of a rim if you are running tubes on a tube type rim.  I have not tried to get a tube tire off of a tubeless rim, but I hear that it is more difficult.

ourclarioncall:
The discussion was about  “Very strong 48h 700c rims “ for touring

Then folk recommended 26” instead as it would be easier to get replacement parts

17 stone guy said 36h Sputniks stood up to the task

Other mentioned that there is no need for 48h and 36h was enough , unless going on a very long tour and wanting extra insurance

Then velocity rims were mentioned . I’m now guessing that that was a recommendation for 700c not 26” ?

mickeg:
Some people say that a 26 inch wheel is much stronger than 700c.  I suspect it is slightly stronger, but not by much.

A decade or more ago, 700c tires that were much wider than 37mm were rare in bike shops, but wider 26 inch tires and therefore wider 26 inch rims were easier to find.  Thus at that time maybe the 26 inch rims were much stronger because they were also wider?

And I have not seen a 26 inch wheel that had a hub spacing less than 135mm in quite a few decades.  My errand bike is a 1994 and it has a 135mm rear hub.  But a lot of 700c wheels are still 130mm, which has more dish.

Co-Motion in Western USA makes solo touring bikes and tandems.  They make a solo touring model called the Americano that uses tandem strength wheels.  I recall riding behind a guy that had one with derailleurs.  It took a while for me to figure out why his bike looked so odd, the 145mm rear hub spacing was undished.  I think his wheel was 40 spokes.  I was not used to seeing a bike in front of me for several miles riding on the highway with an undished wheel before.

An undished wheel is a lot stronger than a dished wheel because the spoke tension is the same on both sides.  I think that is more important than adding some more spokes.  Rohloff wheels are undished too.

Modern rims, hubs and spokes are pretty strong.  For a solo touring bike, I think 36 is good enough.  I have only broken spokes on a 1960s vintage wheel, I have never broken a spoke or damaged a rim on a wheel that I built.  I built the wheels on my touring bikes.  They are all 36 spoke except the front wheel is 32 on my light touring bike, while the rear on that bike is 36.

But, 32 spoke is becoming more common, even on touring bikes.  They are cheaper to build and manufacturers can advertise that they are a hair lighter.  Thus, if you are looking for a replacement rim later, you might have trouble finding a 36, as 32 will be more common.

Why did I use 32 spokes front and 36 spokes rear on my light touring bike?  Two simple reasons.  I decided there is a lot less weight on the front wheel and 32 would be enough.  And the specific dynohub I wanted was in very short supply in 36 at that time, but 32 were common, I found a 32 on sale for about $40 USD cheaper than the 36.

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