Author Topic: Chain Guard  (Read 945 times)

Thomas777

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Chain Guard
« on: December 19, 2016, 01:48:48 AM »
Hello! This is my first post and have a non-Thorn bike question. Bought my wife a Dutch step through touring frame set at the end of our tour in June while in Europe. Currently doing a re-build on it with a Rohloff. Would like to add a chain guard and wonder if anyone has any experience with the SKS chain guards?
Thanks!

jags

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Re: Chain Guard
« Reply #1 on: December 19, 2016, 11:42:20 AM »
Andre is the chain guard expert.
welcome to the forum btw.
jags.

martinf

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Re: Chain Guard
« Reply #2 on: December 19, 2016, 08:37:47 PM »
I experimented a bit with chain guards, but decided all were more trouble than they were worth. Until a few years ago, when André of this forum started the thread below :

http://thorncyclesforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=2233.0

I have been using Hebie Chaingliders for 4 years now. I was very sceptical at first, thinking the way the Chainglider sits unsupported on the transmission would generate friction and noise. In practice, it works for me.

There are several conditions for optimum Chainglider use :

- The Hebie Chainglider only works with a few specific combinations of chainwheel/sprocket sizes. Front parts are made in 38T, 42T, 44T and 48T sizes. For Rohloff, there is a specific rear part that works with the new-style screw-on sprockets in sizes 15T to 17T. Don't know if the specific rear part for the old-style screw-on sprockets is still available.

- The Chainglider has to be the right length (standard for most bikes, but some large bikes or bikes with long rear triangles require the extra-long version).

- The Chainglider works best with a narrow chainring (Surly stainless steel 3/32" works well). That said, my oldest Chainglider is still working happily with a non-optimum 1/8" TA chainring, but other people have had problems with thick alloy chainrings.

It looks as if removing the wheel for puncture repair or tyre change would be more hassle with a Chainglider. I find this isn't the case, and remove just the inner and outer rear sections (quick once you are used to it). The front sections remain in place and help keep the chain tidy during wheel removal.