About my Ryde Andra 40 rim...

[Danneaux]

I received a reply from SJS :

"Because of the drilling you will have to either:
 
Build as the markings on the hub and cross the valve hole with a spoke.
 
Or
 
Build as the markings on the hub on the non-drive side and the other way to the markings on the drive side (this is what we would do)."

...Or you could cross the spokes over the valve and then drill another valve hole and plug the first one with a snap-in nylon cap.

I did this once for someone in a similar situation and it made them happy -- they did not want to fuss with crossed spokes when using a hand pump. I chose to drill the new hole (sized for a presta valve) at 90° to the first one instead of 180°, figuring it would avoid weakening the rim at opposite points. This was a box-section rim so I used two plugs, one inside the rim well and another outside. The heads on the nylon plugs I used are very shallow with tapered edges. I got black ones to better resist UV breakdown.

The wheel survived extensive use over many years and was sold with the bike.

Just another data point to consider.

Best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

...Or you could cross the spokes over the valve and then drill another valve hole and plug the first one with a snap-in nylon cap.

I did this once for someone in a similar situation and it made them happy -- they did not want to fuss with crossed spokes when using a hand pump. I chose to drill the new hole (sized for a presta valve) at 90° to the first one instead of 180°, figuring it would avoid weakening the rim at opposite points. This was a box-section rim so I used two plugs, one inside the rim well and another outside. The heads on the nylon plugs I used are very shallow with tapered edges. I got black ones to better resist UV breakdown.

The wheel survived extensive use over many years and was sold with the bike.

Just another data point to consider.

Best,

Dan.

Brilliant.  I never thought of that.  Thanks for posting.

[jul]

However, i don't see really the disadvantage if i choose the option " to cross the valve hole with a spoke"

With two kinds of pumps that i have at home it seems ok..

[Danneaux]

However, i don't see really the disadvantage if i choose the option " to cross the valve hole with a spoke"

With two kinds of pumps that i have at home it seems ok..

So long as you can reach the valve without issue using one of these pumps and there is room for your fingers to secure and remove the pump head, you should be fine.

I remember on the friend's wheel (mentioned above) a person's fingers got a good drubbing at the spoke crossing when removing the pump head. Of course it was an old Silca pump with Campagnolo head (as I still use a on a couple of my own bikes today), very unlike the kind you have with a flexible hose leading to the head. He had big hands, so it was an annoyance to him when airing up the tires.

All the best,

Dan.

[martinf]

I reckon you should be OK with those pumps.

My 16" Brompton wheel built with a spoke crossing the valve has 28 spokes crossing twice. I have no problems inflating the tyre on this wheel with my pumps, an SKS floor pump with flexible hose and large brass connector that pushes on, and a light Lezyne pump with screw-on flexible hose/connector.

With a 26" wheel and 32 spokes in a 1 or 2 cross pattern you should have more room than me.

[jul]

Thanks for yours remarks. 

Martinf, do you think that can help me if you send me a photo of your wheel ?  like that i could be inspired to make the same lacing..

As well, when i see my holes inside the rim, they are drill for two directions, and when i position my spoke with my nipple, i can't to cross the valve hole because the two directions are on the opposite side of the valve hole...  so i don't see how i can cross the valve 

[martinf]

Being a 28 spoke 16 inch front wheel rather than a 32 spoke 26 inch rear wheel I doubt it will help you much, but here is a photo taken in a dark garage that shows the spoke crossing the valve.

Like the Andra and Grizzly rims, this Brompton rim has (slightly) angled and offset spoke holes, which are pointing in the right direction (laterally, I don't know if they are also angled in the longitudinal plane, in which case one side will be wrong).

I checked that, but made the silly mistake of forgetting to check that the valve hole was in the right position. It was a new hub, so I could have done it right.

[macspud]

martinf,
What is that that you have laced through the spokes?

[martinf]

Moonline, by 3M. No longer sold AFAIK.

A predecessor to the Sekuclip spoke reflector, 1 long flexible piece of reflective plastic weaved through the spokes.

I prefer the newer Sekuclips on most bikes, but Moonline works better on Bromptons as the Sekuclips tend to get knocked off when the bike is folded.

[jul]

I received an answer to my seller's rims ..

"I am sorry but Andra 40s always come with so-called french drillings. Only way to avoid new spoke positions in the hub will be to use another rim with european and/or non-directional drilling. A rim similar to Andra 40 would be Big Bull. These are french drilled as well, but you can put all spokes just one hole left counter clock"

Do you understand like me ? i do not have solution with my current rim ?

Martinf, thanks for the photo   

[Danneaux]

Julien,

I read the quote as you do...that you will need to alter the lacing on one flange of your previously laced hub if you wish to use the Andra 40 rim.

You may find this (other) forum topic interesting...
http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=83304

All the best,

Dan.

[jul]

I would guess he means the non-drive side (the left side) should be laced the same on the hub as in the past and make your changes on the drive side (right side), but you would be better off asking the source for clarification instead of trusting my translation.

It's right Mickeg !   

The non-drive side is the ex-box side  (left side)

I think the best for me will be to find a new Andra 40 rim drilled to the left .. (just after the valve hole)

However, is it exact than a rim drilled to the left is called "European drilling rim" and a rim drilled to the right is called (French drilling rim)?

[Danneaux]

However, is it exact than a rim drilled to the left is called "European drilling rim" and a rim drilled to the right is called (French drilling rim)?

<nods> Yes, generally speaking, but do be wary -- there seems to be little consensus as to proper use of terms. Even references to "right hand" and "left hand" rims are not always used correctly. I've sometimes received rims that were opposite the way they were described in advertisements.

If you have any doubts before placing an order, send an inquiry to the seller with a photo showing exactly what you want.

All the best,

Dan.

[mickeg]

I would expect that all of the rims made by Ryde of that model woudl be drilled the same.  In this age of machines doing everything, I think it unlikely that some rims would be drilled different than others unless there was a specific reason such as different drilling for a Rohloff.

After Dan made the comment on drilling a new hole elsewhere on the rim (and I responded "brilliant..."), if it was me doing this work, that is what I would have done.  Some hardware stores have little plastic plugs that can fill a hole that you would no longer use.  And on the inside, good rim tape might be adequate since good rim tape is perfectly adequate to cover nipple holes.

I have drilled larger diameter holes on several rims that were originally drilled for Presta.  Because the Aluminum is quite soft, I am always quite careful to use very low speed and advance the bit slowly.  To be even more careful, on some rims I used a hand crank drill instead of an electric drill.  (I call that a cordless drill.)  Since the drilling would be on a curved surface, starting with a smaller bit makes sense to control it better for initial hole placement.

[Danneaux]

Some hardware stores have little plastic plugs that can fill a hole that you would no longer use.

Yep. This is what I described above.

Because the Aluminum is quite soft, I am always quite careful to use very low speed and advance the bit slowly.

...and an appropriate cutting fluid to ensure clean margins even at low speeds.

To be even more careful, on some rims I used a hand crank drill instead of an electric drill.  (I call that a cordless drill.)  Since the drilling would be on a curved surface, starting with a smaller bit makes sense to control it better for initial hole placement.

Just to add some data points, a metric step drill bit can sometimes work better than a twist drill when enlarging holes in thin aluminum. I also make occasional use of my HTC (Hozan) tapered hand reamer. Provided one has a small v-fixture and a drill press, a final quick dash with a countersink bit can leave the edges with valve friendly rounded edges.

All the best,

Dan.