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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Rohloff wears out
« Last post by Mike Ayling on Today at 12:07:58 AM »
I am a long term larker of this site and used the information on it to decide to get my Rohloff.

I had a total hub failure by that I mean you could not coast on my bicycle. In a a  fit of anger I kicked the wheel and lo and behold the ability to coast was restored however the peddles still had zero ability to rotate. I got a ride and my tour was over.
Please note I called Rodriguez the maker of my bike three days before about the fact the wheel had a quarter inch wobble at the rim that came from the hub. They asked me to stay a day in place as they called Rohloff, who said send it in at end of tour in 250 miles. The bike only traveled 150 of those miles. The silver ring on the hub behind the cog had totally disintegrated.
I with touring load and some food and water weight in at 250bl.

What a bummer that you had to cut your tour short.

Keep us posted as to what Rodrigues and Rohloff did to repair replace your hub.

Mike
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Transmission / Re: Split belt drive conversion kit
« Last post by energyman on May 19, 2019, 09:00:17 PM »
Yo, I'm still here.  My latest bikes have chains.  To me it's six of one and half a dozen of the other now.
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Transmission / Re: Split belt drive conversion kit
« Last post by Andre Jute on May 19, 2019, 06:42:34 PM »
Well spotted, Dan.

With regard to the speculation about a "snubber" or a "tiny eccentric bottom bracket", a split belt would be a natural for Rohloff's own sliding block axle carrier design for their hub, for which they give the blueprints away free of charge. I don't see why an eccentric bottom bracket as on Thorn designs shouldn't work as well. After all, how much adjustment could you need? (Not a rhetorical question.)

GETTING THERE FROM WHERE WE HAVE ARRIVED
I'm not planning on being an unpaid (indeed paying, through the neck!) beta tester, though. The Hebie Chainglider does me brilliantly and I have my doubts about a belt with inclusions on the drive side being any cleaner than the smooth outside of the Chainglider.

It's possible that dried dirt could be easier to brush off the Gates Drive than from a chain, but the junction of the belt ends brings with it another place where dirt can gather. In addition, I view the much larger drive vanes of the Split Gates Drive with suspicion as dirt accumulators.

There is also the problem that the Rohloff is, by design, not a clean gearbox; if it were truly sealed, it would be atrociously heavy*. Seems obvious that the belt will carry oil "misted out" and expelled through its breather hole forward to your trousers or your legs, and right there you're back to daily or weekly cleaning. By comparison, I wipe my Chainglider down with a piece of kitchen tissue once a year when I change the gearbox oil and the chain, which I run for its entire life on the factory lube, and I cycle in street clothes, light coloured khakis in the summer, without any complaints from my wife about oil on my clothes.

So, in sum, the belt will probably be cleaner than a chain, but we already have a component, the Hebie Chainglider, which does the same job very well indeed, and most likely better. The Chainglider costs about 10% of the estimated price of the Split Gates Drive. You don't need a Scottish grandmother or a doctorate in economics to view that comparison leerily.

It is likely that the belt drive will look cool until everyone has one, but I'm not a fashion victim. And really, for that much money, it has to do better than outlast three chains (which is how far again? -- for me about 10k kilometres) or two Rohloff oil changes; they're not giving us a hard number because they want to keep open the option of discovering some masher who gets a thousand miles/1600km on a chain as I once did.

Someone has to take one for the team and, just in case I'm wrong, give this thing a thorough, extended test so we can decide if it is a high-functioning replacement for the Hebie Chainglider or merely bicycle bling to give the Cool Boys bragging rights... Yo, Energyman, are you still there?

Remember when shaft drive for bicycles was the next big thing? Except it wasn't.

Sorry to be a Jeremiah in the halls of the technofreaks, but I have decades of experience thinking about a minimum or zero maintenance bike, and testing components towards it.

*For those who don't know the history, the Rohloff was designed as a mud plugger along the lines of German agricultural machinery, intended to be passed on to your great-grandchildren. It was not designed as a luxury touring gearbox (and therefore permanently ultra-clean, no oil on the outside), or even as an offroad downhiller, but literally to survive racing in the mud, or even on a beach, because its inspiration was derailleur gruppos that died in the sand and wavelets on a beach near the hotel where the Rohloffs spent their honeymoon. The only reason it has even a niche market as a touring box is that back in the 1990's when the Rohloff was brand new, the iconoclastic German baukast (custom bike builder) Utopia tested the Rohloff and then fitted it to their aspirational touring bikes, including some famous circumnavigators, and later Andy Blance of Thorn fell in love with the Rohloff box as the answer to design problems in serious touring bikes. These are trendsetters, so in time others followed at first tentatively and then enthusiastically.
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Wanted / WTD long drop calipers
« Last post by harv on May 19, 2019, 02:23:20 PM »
Hello all,

I have just purchased a Thorn Audax frame set which requires long drop brake calipers with a recessed nut fitting so I am after a set of brakes to fit.

I have read good things about the Shimano R451 and the R650 but I am keen to get this on the road ASAP so any offer would be appreciated, not bothered if black or silver either.

many thanks

Harv.
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Transmission / Re: Inner cable length
« Last post by PH on May 19, 2019, 11:30:18 AM »
There's more than one correct method, if you cut it in the right place that's correct!
Choices are - cut by measuring, either with one of the tools (there's been a couple over the years) or a ruler, the measurement will be there somewhere if you google it (I have an idea what it is but won't say in case it's wrong!) OR - cut it against the fitting coming from the hub subtracting 5mm for the other side of the bayonet fastener.  I always used the latter method, it's more intuitive to me, the only thing to watch out for is you don't move the shifter while you're doing it, Thorn recommend taping it up, choose for yourself if you think that's necessary.
Main thing is to take care, but don't be too nervous of it, a few mm either way can be adjusted out, the one time I cut it short (Silly error, I subtracted the 5mm twice!) I just cut a bit off the outer and all was well.

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Transmission / Re: Split belt drive conversion kit
« Last post by Nick Ingamells on May 19, 2019, 08:42:05 AM »


I like to keep my bikes really clean, but at times it's difficult as I ride all year round and in all conditions. I have recently started experimenting with waxing my chains, as opposed to oiling them, and it has been a revelation. The bikes are SO much cleaner and it's SO much easier to keep them that way. It seems to me that a belt drive takes 'keeping things clean' to the next level ?

Interesting stuff.

https://moltenspeedwax.com/pages/waxing-your-chain
Check this out as an alternative to oiling chains. I've gone halfway (the cleaning but using another product - Squirt Chain Lube - without the cooking) and am very pleased so far. I fully intend to do the whole malarky soon!
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Transmission / Inner cable length
« Last post by fmt3 on May 19, 2019, 07:47:19 AM »
Iím about to replace the cables on my Thorn Raven. I donít have the special tool to measure the length of inner cable when it appears from outer. Thorn and Rohloff videos differ in method used.
What is the correct method of measuring the length for internal shift?
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Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: Rohloff wears out
« Last post by Nashtah on May 19, 2019, 03:43:25 AM »
I am a long term larker of this site and used the information on it to decide to get my Rohloff.

I had a total hub failure by that I mean you could not coast on my bicycle. In a a  fit of anger I kicked the wheel and lo and behold the ability to coast was restored however the peddles still had zero ability to rotate. I got a ride and my tour was over.
Please note I called Rodriguez the maker of my bike three days before about the fact the wheel had a quarter inch wobble at the rim that came from the hub. They asked me to stay a day in place as they called Rohloff, who said send it in at end of tour in 250 miles. The bike only traveled 150 of those miles. The silver ring on the hub behind the cog had totally disintegrated.
I with touring load and some food and water weight in at 250bl.
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Wanted / Low loader front rack
« Last post by madinminety on May 17, 2019, 06:27:11 AM »
Looking for a front low loader rack
Ideally a thorn but will consider anything
Andrew
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Thorn General / Re: Kickstand on a Nomad or a Raven anyone?
« Last post by John Saxby on May 14, 2019, 02:02:20 AM »
+1 for the Bike Brakes which Dan mentioned. In my experience, they're the best purpose-built brake-lever locks which live on the handlebar. (I found the ones which came with my click-stand didn't work so well.)

Two problems with the Bike Brakes:
>   they are susceptible to UV rays.  I've found that they degrade over a couple a couple of seasons.  So, if you buy them, buy several at a time.
>   they do only one thing, even though they do it very well indeed.  You can't use them for anything else.  (In that sense, they're a bit like Sidi cycling shoes, shod with Look/keo cleats.)

As a backup/alternative, I use these 4" QR rubber ties, which I've praised elsewhere on this forum:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?p=65393&cat=2,43319,33283 Wrap the tie twice around the bar and the lever, hook with the crescent-shaped "anchor", and voilŗ!  These things have multiple uses, cost but 25Ę each, and last indefinitely, so far as I can see.
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