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Interesting thoughts as usual Andre Jute, though there are a couple of things I'd place value on that are not accounted for in your musings.  So some musing from me!
Unless you're very lucky or prepared to wait a while, the chances of finding the exact variant of hub seems unlikely, less likely the further away from the most common you want.  Some compromise may be required. you'd have to work out for yourself the Compromise = ratio.
I can'r remember the details of the Rohloff warranty, I still have the warranty card that came with it and it doesn't say!  Nor does it say it's not transferable though as I needed to register it I suspect that's the case, such peace of mind certainly has a value.
Dealer service, I have no similar purchase to compare to, most things either fail within the warranty period or last long enough for me to have had the value from them.  The Rohloff was of course bought as a long term investment and the service from SJS has gone well beyond the warranty.  I've had two flange breakages, the first just bad luck the second may have been the result of changing wheel sizes (See below).  Both were replaced FOC including rebuilding the wheel, it's easy to put a value on that, the shells would have been 125 each plus whatever you pay for a wheel build.
Wheel building - all hubs suffer if you change the way the spokes fit, sometimes you get away with it, sometimes you don't, there can be no doubt that starting with a fresh hub and sticking with the same build is the better option.
Resale value - On the accounting principle that cost is purchase less residual value,  it's possible the newer hub the hub the higher it's value. Considering my hub cost 720 plus 120 for it's recent conversion to disk, and I'm reasonably confident it would sell for 500+ that cost over 14 years is outstanding. 24 a year  :o :o :o :o :o

I'm bored with people telling me how expensive they are. I can no longer be bothered explaining how wrong they are, I just laugh.
So back to how much is  S/H worth, well that is of course between buyer and seller, as a buyer I think the maximum I would pay is 70% of the new price, if I were to sell mine* I'd let the market decide but anything over 50% of the new price would be considered bonus.

*It'll never happen.

Last point
than on a well-run-in Rohloff, which by contrast is utterly silent
Having ridden with several other people Rohloffs, there's a noticeable difference in the noise they make, mine usually wins, even after this time it's far from silent.  Apparently they did change something about a decade ago that reduced the noise, I read that I could have mine changed but as the noise never bothered me I didn't follow it up.

Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Rohloff Disk Brake
« Last post by PH on Today at 10:36:41 AM »
Sorry, my comment was ambiguous. When I said that what he had was good, I meant the disk that he had should work.
Ahh, my misunderstanding. 
My point still remains - that the rear brake has little impact on stopping distance compared to the front, assuming the limiting factor is the contact with the surface, off road different rules apply!
This might be worth a read;
Bikes For Sale / eBay Nomad derailleur
« Last post by in4 on Today at 10:15:08 AM »
Thanks for the post Andre. It has certainly given me some 'peace of mind' concerning my recent purchase. Also, according to your logic, it sounds like I got a bargain. Still have to get the wheel built and the Rohloff tested but I've done a few preliminary tests and it all looks good.
Rohloff Internal Hub Gears / Re: So-easy Rohloff cog removal
« Last post by lestat_12345 on Today at 07:41:12 AM »
The oil didn't smell bad per say. It just had a very strong 'oily' smell if that makes sense. It is very doubtful that the unit has seen much use because of the condition of the sprocket and shifter - which are the originals. I just don't think that the oil has ever been changed since new or, if it has, it probably hasn't been done as frequently as it should. I'm building a wheel for it this Saturday and taking it out for a test ride on Sunday. It'll stay on my Nomad for a couple of months, which is used daily, until I get time to build up the Sherpa. Hopefully during that time, if there are any problems, they'll manifest but I'm sure everything will be fine.
Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Rohloff Disk Brake
« Last post by martinf on Today at 07:21:43 AM »
I'm thinking of adding a rear disk brake to my Nomad.

Not yet had disk brakes (I have in the past used coaster brakes, and currently have rear roller and drum brakes respectively on two family bikes). An advantage of non-rim brakes is less muck sprayed off the rims and onto the chain, this is not relevant if using a Chainglider.

The rear brake is less effective than the front, so for better wet-weather performance you might also need to improve the front. I find Koolstop Salmon brake pads (V-brakes) or Aztec brake pads (cantilever brakes) work well enough for me on non-CSS rims.

CSS rims have been reported to be less effective than normal rims in the wet. I have CSS front and rear on my Raven Tour, but have not yet had any issues.
Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Rohloff Disk Brake
« Last post by David Simpson on Today at 06:47:35 AM »
In a previous post (reply #1 in this thread), I was wrong about the adjustment screw. I have corrected that post above.

- DaveS
Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Rohloff Disk Brake
« Last post by David Simpson on Today at 06:08:13 AM »
Sorry, my comment was ambiguous. When I said that what he had was good, I meant the disk that he had should work.

I agree that in dry conditions, V-brakes will be as good at stopping as disk brakes. But in the wet, I have found disk brakes to be much better than rim brakes.

- DaveS
Wheels, Tyres and Brakes / Re: Rohloff Disk Brake
« Last post by PH on Today at 03:11:05 AM »
I have a Spyre on the rear of my mercury, it works fine. Though I'd agree with this from DaveS
Short answer: What you already have should be good.
Particularly as most of your braking ability is from the front wheel - with the same brake the stopping distance from rear only would be twice that of front only, and the fastest way to safely stop a bike is with a front brake hard enough to be close to lifting the rear wheel.   However much you were to improve the rear braking it isn't going to be a great improvement on the overall stopping ability and IMO it'd better to find ways to improve that. 
Interesting post.

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