Thorn Cycles Forum
Technical => General Technical => Topic started by: stutho on February 28, 2006, 11:18:13 am
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I have recently changed all my accessory (mudguards, racks, bottles, etc) fixings over to stainless Torx. My thinking is that Torx is more thief proof and as a added bonus is much harder to round than Allen bolts. As the Rohloff uses Torx I need to carry Torx keys anyway.
I would like to go all the way and get rid of all (or nearly all) Allan bolts on the bike
Does anyone know were I can source stainless Torx cap head bolts that would be suitable for the stem?
Thanks
Stutho
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I use Action Fixings in Colchester for any small quantities of
unusual stuff I want. Haven Road, Colchester, Essex. CO2 8HT. 01206 792152. Not internetted up, so no website to visit.
I've got some security (pin) Torx button heads, M5 x 20 thread for my bikes from them. Probably A2 grade rather than the more corrosion resistant A4. But I think either would be OK on a bike for most people.
They apparently have a sort of loose arrangment with other similar outlets in other parts of the country, but if not they probably would post.
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I use Action Fixings in Colchester for any small quantities of
unusual stuff I want. Haven Road, Colchester, Essex. CO2 8HT. 01206 792152. Not internetted up, so no website to visit.
I've got some security (pin) Torx button heads, M5 x 20 thread for my bikes from them. Probably A2 grade rather than the more corrosion resistant A4. But I think either would be OK on a bike for most people.
They apparently have a sort of loose arrangment with other similar outlets in other parts of the country, but if not they probably would post.
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Thanks Graham, have you replaced all the Allan bolts or just the accessory?
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I got the latest batch mainly to do the rack fixings because cap head screws were wearing holes in the bottom of the panniers. I haven't actually fitted them yet. But most things on a bike seem to be M5, and I think button heads look sleeker than cap head screws so that's the main reason for going for a change. The Torx bit is just along the lines of 'why not if I'm doing it anyway'. I haven't tried to get a Torx headset bolt yet, but the company above would probably be as good a bet for it as any. At a guess, it'd be M6 x 40 or so, would it?
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I think mine are M5 but It has to be cap head can't get them local only button head. Also nead to change the seat post clamp and the saddle rail clamp.
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(and the stem clamp)
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A couple of places to try for Torx (button head) screws is
Clerkenwell Screws just around the corner from Condor Cycles
or
Drews of Reading, <10 mins walk from the station.
http://www.drews.uk.com
I can't think of anywhere that sells Torx screws in socket cap
head style.
Robin
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A couple of places to try for Torx (button head) screws is
Clerkenwell Screws just around the corner from Condor Cycles
or
Drews of Reading, <10 mins walk from the station.
http://www.drews.uk.com
I can't think of anywhere that sells Torx screws in socket cap
head style.
Robin
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Thanks Robin.
I can get the button heads locally but the cap heads are vey hard to find.
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Thanks Robin.
I can get the button heads locally but the cap heads are vey hard to find.
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TORX and caphead don't really go together - one of the reasons for TORX is increased security, and a caphead (unless recessed - as in a stem) can be gripped with pliers or grips.
This is presumably why TORX screws are normally button head or countersunk and hard to find (or non-existent)in cap head.
If you are really really want to vandal-proof the bars and stem etc you could use a cap screw and drill out the hexagon after fitting. Only way to then remove would be to drill on down to the base of the cap - a bit drastic and doesn't allow for retightening!
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TORX and caphead don't really go together - one of the reasons for TORX is increased security, and a caphead (unless recessed - as in a stem) can be gripped with pliers or grips.
This is presumably why TORX screws are normally button head or countersunk and hard to find (or non-existent)in cap head.
If you are really really want to vandal-proof the bars and stem etc you could use a cap screw and drill out the hexagon after fitting. Only way to then remove would be to drill on down to the base of the cap - a bit drastic and doesn't allow for retightening!
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With larger allen key socket cap screws it is possible
to modify the screw yourself to create a security
screw. I have done this on a stainless M8 screw to
replace a standard seatpost saddle clamp bolt.
I drilled a short hole in the middle of the head
and glued a section of nail into the hole.
Robin
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tynevalleycommuter:
Doh - that explains why I cant find one.
Thanks
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Does anyone know the size of the torx screw that holds the cable housing on to the Rohloff twistgrip? One of mine has disappeared. The tension of the cable seems to be holding it together at the moment but I would like the security of the screw.
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Does anyone know the size of the torx screw that holds the cable housing on to the Rohloff twistgrip? One of mine has disappeared. The tension of the cable seems to be holding it together at the moment but I would like the security of the screw.
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strat:
I think you nead a Twistshifter ear torque screws for Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 (# 8203)
see http://www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm and look under Rohloff Internal Hub gear Spares
They cost £0.99 for 2
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Thanks Stutho, why didnt't I think of that? It is unclear whether they supply one or two screws, but at 99p I would hope for two. A problem with SJSC is their postage charge of £5, I always end up spending more that I want to justify this.
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They may just ignore the P& P on such a small item if you speak to them personally - Ask them really nicely to pop it in the royal mail by second class post.
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I've been away from the computer for a couple of weeks, and had a few thoughts on the Torx headset bolt idea.
1) don't bother. The headset bolt is only for preloading the bearings. If the stem clamp screws have been replaced for Torx, the most a thief could escape with is the bolt and plastic cap (and possibly a spacer or two). The bike would still be rideable.
2) modify the cap head bolt by drilling out the hex, tapping it and glueing in a button head Torx screw. I think you'd get away with this on the headset because the bolt doesn't have to go too tight. I wouldn't trust doing it with the seat screws, though, which seem to be a recessed cap head bolt.
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I think that I am resigned to keeping the Allen bolts that have a Cap head - the motivation for getting them all to Torx was so no Allen keys would be needed. I don't think it is likely I can get rid of every last Allen bolt so might as well use Allen for all the cap head bolts. I still think, in a perfect world, all the fasteners would be Torx as they are far harder to round than Allen.
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I think I saw an advert in an old copy of my IMEchE magazine for a firm specialising in stainless fasteners, especially unusual ones. Problem is the magazine has now been recycled! I'll be looking out for said advert from now on, though. The mag comes fortnightly so they might run the advert again eventually. And the company might even sell small quantities to joe public if we're lucky.
Personally, I can't see the problem with having a mixture of heads. All of the required drivers come in a stubby 1/4" hex size so all you want is the ones that apply to your bike and a holder. Probably lighter than carrying individual allen keys and on a par with a largish multi-tool. I think it unlikely I'd want to undo most of my accessories on the road anyway, so if they're torx I'd just wait till I got home. As long as I could play with (tighten, mostly, if they came loose) the seatpin, handlebars, chainring and also adjust the brakes I'd be happy. Thinking about it, the aforesaid list covers the stuff most likely to be left as hex anyway. So I'd take the allen keys and leave the torx thingy at home.